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abreojos
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Posts: 168
Registered: 2-9-2006
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31 years ago I stumbled onto Ojo de Liebre by accident and heard the whales breathing at night for the first time. Don't know why there are bad
reports about Laguna San Ignacio it was well regulated last time I was there in 2001. Whales even followed us as we headed back to camp. In my opinion
they are both great places, but not necessarly because of the people or lack there of, but because of the star of the show as they now have become. We
were the only people there 31 years ago!
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shari
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Posts: 13043
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Don't get me wrong, anywhere you can spend time observing the gentle giants is wonderful. I was just trying to shed more light on the difference
between the lagoons and they are all very different. It is just that San Ignacio is the best promoted and has the most humans and lots of plane
traffic and the whale:human ratio is not ideal but thousands of people have had incredible experiences there too. You are right about Ignacio
Springs...it's divine and the food rocks! Wanna kayak...go to Magdelena Bay...wanna groove in the inner sancuary with nearly 2,000 grays, go to Ojo de
Liebre...wherever you go please remember to respect our crusty amigos.
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Pstreet1
Junior Nomad
Posts: 94
Registered: 7-25-2005
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Shari, questions about the tour in the earlier post--should I make reservations for us (and if so, at what time to be with your group?) or can you
save us two places and we'll pay when we get there?
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shari
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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We'll wing it...I'd like to see who's driving the pangas and wait for one of my favorites...it's first come first serve there so we'll just hang out
and hope to get out in the morning sometime. OUr Nomad boat is full and Sirena said she'd guide a second boat. The Iflyfishwhennotwhalewatching are
coming plus Diver and others so I can guarantee an interesting day!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Cypress
Whale watching? Think maybe those whales would rather be left alone. |
From what I have seen (on videos) and read/ heard, the whales come to the pangas, which park in a spot and wait. The whales seek out the pangas and
even push their young close to the humans for contact!
The whales are pretty big and can go where ever they want and could smash a panga with ease. The animals seem smart enough to do the decision making
for themselves.
Check it out for yourself and then decide if you want to deny the whales and people that contact.
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Pstreet1
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Posts: 94
Registered: 7-25-2005
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Shari, We have a reservation at the hotel you recommended for Feb. 22 and Feb 23. What time to meet for dinner on the 22nd;? We'll be driving in
from Rosarito; what do you think we should allow for driving time? Really looking forward to this!
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shari
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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I think you mean El Rosario (baja cactus) from there it's about a 5 hour drive if ya don't stop. I think we'd like an early dinner so we can set up
camp not too late, maybe even a late lunch would be better say around 3 or 4:00. We'll come to your hotel and look for you...we now have a full boat
and Sirena may have to guide a second boat. Maybe you can brong down a GOT BAJA sticker for us from David! Oh yeah, and a bag of brown rice please!
(to feed me and not the whales!!) can't wait either!
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Pstreet1
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Don't know how to get in touch with David for the sticker, but the next time we're across the border, we'll get the bag of brown rice.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Pstreet1
Don't know how to get in touch with David for the sticker, but the next time we're across the border, we'll get the bag of brown rice.
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It is no secret, details on my web page (VivaBaja.com) and Nomad...
Send me your mailing address (to my email info*at*vivabaja.com), put 'sticker' or 'got baja' in the subject line!
I will put stickers in the mail for you and Shari....
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dgi
Newbie
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Registered: 12-6-2006
Location: Dana Point, CA
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Mood: Don't worry, be happy
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Shari, as I watch and respect your postings each day,I have to say that San Ignacio is the only lagoon some of us can get to in a timely manor to see
the whales. We have gone in our plane for the last 3 years and this will be our fourth. Each trip, it is expressed by the pangas to wait for the
whales to come to us and not us to them. It is their decision to come to the pangas. I think they are as curious as we are to see us. Also, the pangas
have told us not to make noise,or pound on the boat hull to try to get the whales to come over to us. We go with Kuyama. They seem to have a great
respect for the whales and the enviroment. If you see it differently,as you live there, Iwould like to hear from you.
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shari
Select Nomad
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Well I can only say that every trip is different depending mostly on your lanchero, time of year, weather...and the whales moods. I know some
lancheros that just have to put themselves out there and their whale pals come to them...I know others that cant get near a whale and they noticeable
swim away when that panga approaches them. these incompetent or poorly trained drivers chase whales around all day every day because the whales know
them and don't trust them...these guys are dangerous to the whales and they avoid them for their own safety. Whales quickly learn who the trustworthy
drivers are and know them by the sound of their panga...in my many years of research it was fascinating to see how whales react differently to
different lancheros. If a lanchero earns the whales trust in the first couple weeks in the lagoon, he makes a pal for the whole season and that whale
will visit him regularly. But it is deceiving what David mentioned about whales coming to you as the lanchero has to KNOW which whales are more
cooperative and they do....what they do is get to know where their pals hang out and usually try to find them...the lancheros put you where you need
to be (although most people don't notice that) so make sure if you have a good experience, tip the guy well...He's the one who got you to the cool
whales. Kuyima is generally a good company and
San Ignacio is fine if you don't mind lots of people, planes, gringo companies with lots of pangas. Most people love it as they advertise that you can
fondle whales there and most people want that. I have had many bad experiences there and witnessed atrocities of boats chasing whales and also where
several boats have boxed in a calf, separated it from it's mom which can be a real problem as sometimes the mom gets alarmed and can hit the boats if
she can't get her calf to come back to her. Also seen as many as 12 boats trying to get close to one poor whale. It's definately a double edged sword.
I've also had some incredible experiences there with Maldo...a truly great lanchero...so as I say your experiences depend on many factors...hope this
clears things up for you....oh yeah, you can fly into guerrero negro and get a taxi to the lagoon too...lots of my friends do that...great hotels,
restaurants and service.
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rbwrivers
Junior Nomad
Posts: 59
Registered: 1-22-2007
Location: midwest US
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Mood: dreaming of Baja
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What is it that keeps Ojo de Libre from being crowded like San Ignacio?
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marla
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Posts: 287
Registered: 10-29-2003
Location: Long Beach
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I've been whale watching multiple times in both lagoons and my experience was that Ojo de Libre was way more crowded than San Ignacio.
If a man walks in the woods for love of them half of each day, he is in danger of being regarded as a loafer. But if he spends his days as a
speculator, shearing off those woods and making the earth bald before her time, he is deemed an industrious and enterprising citizen. Henry David
Thoreau
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Pstreet1
Junior Nomad
Posts: 94
Registered: 7-25-2005
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Shari, we will definitely be there the 22nd--but we're now a party of 4 rather than 2; another couple has joined us.
Really looking forward to it!
Pat
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Pstreet1
Junior Nomad
Posts: 94
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David, you've got mail. :-)
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13043
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Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Like I said everyone...your experience totally depends on what day you go, weather, lanchero etc. etc. For example sometimes in Ojo de Liebre there
aren't even enough people there to fill one boat and you have to wait for more to come...after waiting awhile they'll take you anyway if no one shows
up....BUT for example if you go Presidents Day Weekend there might be 600 people there....a few tour buses etc... I lived there for 10 years and have
been to the other lagoons alot as well so I have a pretty sound idea of numbers and what goes on in each lagoon. San Ignacio does the most advertising
for petting whales, they do alot of fly-in business and have very large tourist "camps" there at the lagoon plus there are alot of operators...there
were permits for 23 boats in one small observation area (a couple years back...maybe more now) whereas Ojo de Liebre only had 6 in each of the 2
areas...and believe me it was only on Presidents day weekend when 6 boats were running. Usually there are 3 or 4 and often you are the only boat
out...plus ODL is a much bigger observation area with about 1,200 more whales in it...so you have more to choose from. It is the main calving lagoon
and over half the gray whale population was born there. It is the primary nursery so the lancheros have a bit different attidtude to chasing and
touching them. Each week is different as the calves are at a different developmental stage. I guess I'll just have to get busy and publish my whale
behavior book....any more questions??
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Pstreet1
Junior Nomad
Posts: 94
Registered: 7-25-2005
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Can't wait!
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rbwrivers
Junior Nomad
Posts: 59
Registered: 1-22-2007
Location: midwest US
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Mood: dreaming of Baja
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Shari do you know the whales individually and do you name them?
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Pstreet1
David, you've got mail. :-) |
Yup, stickers for you and Shari mailed today, plus an extra small one for where ever?
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Pstreet1
Junior Nomad
Posts: 94
Registered: 7-25-2005
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Stickers have arrived and are ready to transport to Shari, and I've got her brown rice. We're all set--except that we are clueless. Is there
anything we need to know before setting out on our first trip south of Ensenada at 7:00 a.m. the 22nd? Fuel stops? Bathroom stops? Lunch stop?
Approximate time required? Anything to be on the alert for?
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