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Author: Subject: Driving on washboard
Udo
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[*] posted on 12-19-2008 at 02:31 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by BajaGringo
Udo:

Instead of having to carry a liquid O2 bottle, I just carry a very nice little compressor that runs off my inverter and will air up a flat tire in less than a minute. Seems easier and less hazardous. Got the compressor at Harbor Freight for around $60 as I recall.

Makes airing down/up a lot easier...


There is a Harbor Freight about 15 miles from my house. I think I'll take a look at that compressor.
Less than a minute sounds about as good as my liquid O2 tank, Bajagringo.
Thanks for the tip!




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[*] posted on 12-19-2008 at 04:31 PM


That depends on how much air you need to put back in Udo... I posted the times after I bought mine and used it... I will dig it up using Nomad Search... It was more than a minute, but three times faster than the smaller cig. lighter air pumps...



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[*] posted on 12-19-2008 at 04:35 PM
okay, found it


This was filling the Cooper Discoverer STT 265/70 X 16" tires

posted on 3-19-2007 at 05:06 PM



This one from Harbor Freight fills three times faster than the cigarette lighter ones... 6 psi per minute (1 psi per 10 seconds)... or 5 minutes from 10 psi to 40 psi.

The Coleman or other cig. lighter models only filled at 2 psi per minute (1 psi per 30 seconds)... or 15 minutes from 10 psi to 40 psi.

It connects to the battery, like jumper cables do, and has a gauge (not accurate, but once you know the error, just fill to the corrected point).

Since I got this one, I heard that Baja Nomad's Tienda now offers one like it... That way you can support the site!




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[*] posted on 12-26-2008 at 04:01 PM


Hey you guys, didn't realize how many replies came to my post! Great, great advise...
I drive a 4x4 ford sportsmobile which, believe it or not, weighs around 10,000 pounds. I imagine a 25 to 30psi would do the trick... I also have an airextreme compressor and will be able to adjust. I am amazed some of you guys drive with psi as low as 10... We are driving right now from Montana in one of the biggest snow storms ever. Can't wait for cactuses and sand!
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[*] posted on 12-26-2008 at 04:12 PM


The heavier the rig, the less air needs to be removed for a smoother ride... or should be.

The only deflating I usually do is for beach/ deep sand driving 10-15 psi depending on the tire type, with my Tacoma ('05 4 door).

I would seriously never go below 20 psi for washboard, as you will damage the sidewall should there be a sharp rock encounter, IMO.




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[*] posted on 12-27-2008 at 10:45 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by David KI would seriously never go below 20 psi for washboard, as you will damage the sidewall should there be a sharp rock encounter, IMO.


David, I saw an article on this in Petersons 4WD and Off Road. It showed how a tire that is deflated in 5 p.s.i. increments can envelope a small rock at speeds. Of course, tire type (Radial/Bias-Ply) and also tire size were variables, but the consensus was that for a tire to be deflated to roughly 10-15 p.s.i. would allow it's tread section to survive hitting a small/sharp rock. Now, the sidewall strengh is an entirely different story. Running those Cooper tires you mentioned in your Off-Road thread, I'd also stay inflated to 20 p.s.i. But, with an aired down Bias-Ply 'Swamper for example, I would feel comfortable airing down to 10 p.s.i. without any worries. It all depends on how comfortable you are with the sidewalls you are running.




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[*] posted on 12-27-2008 at 01:29 PM


I will let my suspension do the work on washboards and save my tires from getting flats... I have had ZERO flat tires in the 3 years and 3+ sets of tires on this truck... ;D



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[*] posted on 12-27-2008 at 03:55 PM


Beadlocks for exteme duty, especially at high speeds with low press. Depending on sidewall strength I wouldn't suggest going any lower than 22 psi for most off the shelf tires. Personally I run 30-35 offroad. Air up to 60 for hiways and air down to 18-20 for deeper sand. The "pinching" you get varies from tire to tire and heavy loads require enough rubber/cords to minimize the stress on the sidewall. For me, aside from a couple of freak flats, most ruined tires were due to their lack of puncture/gash protection on the sidewalls.

Tis a shame they quit offering real 10 ply tires. I ran 14X17.5x38 10 ply military forklift lugs for many years. They were regrooveable and had incredibly thick sidewalls. They were very heavy tires that tended to "chunk", were noisy on hiways and not easy to find. Went thru many wheel bearings.:lol: Also rubber was not as advanced in the 70s and tires wore more quickly. Eventually Firestone started making that size in nondirectional w/10 ply ratings. They were a good tire but were noisy and expensive but better for hiway use, especially wet surfaces.




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[*] posted on 12-28-2008 at 02:30 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Sharksbaja
Tis a shame they quit offering real 10 ply tires. I ran 14X17.5x38 10 ply military forklift lugs for many years. They were regrooveable and had incredibly thick sidewalls. They were very heavy tires that tended to "chunk", were noisy on hiways and not easy to find. Went thru many wheel bearings.:lol: Also rubber was not as advanced in the 70s and tires wore more quickly. Eventually Firestone started making that size in nondirectional w/10 ply ratings. They were a good tire but were noisy and expensive but better for hiway use, especially wet surfaces.


When you were running the forklift tires weren't you concerned with the tire coming apart on the highway? I would think a tire built for a forklift would not have much of a speed rating. I have silicone filled tires as the guide tires on my snowcat and they come apart, maybe two or three a year out of 10 tires depending on use.
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[*] posted on 12-28-2008 at 03:08 PM


These tires were for offroad loaders. They put them on other heavy duty vehicles as well.
Hook, surprisingly well balanced they did require some extra lead but worked quite well. Never had one fail in 10 years of different sets. Just didn't wear too well on asphalt. We ran tubes in them as they weren't considered "tubeless". They were typically used on split-rims. They performed great offroad but not great in wet weather on hard surfaces.




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[*] posted on 12-29-2008 at 04:28 PM


You guys all noticed Marchi said he was driving a sports mobile right?
He can't air down very much, go fast, turn hard, stop fast, throttle through a g-out vado, swerve for a burro etc.
He's got the premier land yacht Baja cruiser rig.
I bet you have enough spare coin around to just add some time for slower travel in your vacation plans and cruise nice and mellow like that rig deserves.
Remember, when you get to camp in that palace, to lend a can opener to the ferrel surf bum who can't remember where he put his, to open a cold can of beans cause he did too many bong loads last night.
I'd own one of those things if I didn't like going fast so much.:saint:




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shocked.gif posted on 12-29-2008 at 05:16 PM
ohhhhh........I just read the specs!














$60k-$90k
WAY GOOD TO GO!:yes:

[Edited on 12-30-2008 by Sharksbaja]




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[*] posted on 1-2-2009 at 08:17 PM


If you are driving a Ford 150 better reinforce your rear differential -- I've broken every one I haven't reinforced -- at under 4,000 miles on a new F150 super crew --- I usually weld on a chrome moly truss, but you can buy a bolt on.
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[*] posted on 1-2-2009 at 08:55 PM


Finding the right tire pressure is found by trial and error.

I usually cruise with 22-25 psi in the dirt, washboard.
35-38 psi on the pavement.

On the washboard, I like driving on the wrong side of the road.
I can find the line easier.

But each car, truck, etc., has it's own sweet spot for speed verses rattle.

I generally cruise between 25 and 35 mph on the washboard, slowing down for turns and vado's.

Here's a photo of side wall failure.

737395-R1-027-12_014.jpg - 44kB
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[*] posted on 1-6-2009 at 09:35 AM


Best way to deal with washboards? - drive on split roads.
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