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Author: Subject: 4WD vrs AWD
woody with a view
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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 02:03 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
Ken, yes, I do that too, and for the reason you cite. Always a good idea to stir up the lubricants in the diff.. etc. when off the pavement.

I am going to try the 4-wheel drive engaged thang next time on big washboard----but I am still dubious.

Barry


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this is a reason for you to head south and get off the black top..... if for some reason you need a strip of dirt to sample, PLEASE let me G'know! i'll get you onto some fancy clay trails.




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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 10:35 AM


I am going to try the 4-wheel drive engaged thang next time on big washboard----but I am still dubious.
Barry [/quote

It will be better, not perfect, but better. On washboard remember that the wheels are spending as much time in the air as on the ground, so the handling will be squirrelly no matter what. It is with me. I find the truck "floating" and not as surefooted, but I still find it to be much better in 4wd vs. 2wd. Lower tire pressure and speed helps a lot, but I still do 40+. Stiff suspension is a bummer, all you do is rattle yourself to death. Larger diameter tires help, they roll over stuff better. Maybe my weight helps, I don't know, but with my camper shell on, fully loaded, I push 8,000 lbs. Every vehicle set up is different, where I may shine, in other areas I don't. My truck is no sand buggy.
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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 10:56 AM


Barry, there is a difference in handeling when in 4WD at speed on a graded/ washboard road... It is much more secure when in 4WD... Really feel the difference!

AWD... remember, there are FULL TIME 4WD syatems out there like Quadra Trac from Jeep, that are not the same as AWD... Then there are the really sophisticated systems from Mercedes and Range Rover that have differencial selection, etc.

AWD also does not mean all 4 tires get power all the time... it means all up to all 4 can receive power, when needed for traction... Subarus and Audi Quattros were some of the first AWD automobiles. Originally Subaru was the first passenger 4WD (1975ish), then added low range... then dropped 4WD for the AWD system they offer (no low range). American Motors offered the Eagle 4WD cars after Subaru.

Today's 4WD trucks and SUVs offer the convenience of shift on the fly 4WD from inside the cab (part time 4WD) so you are in economic 2WD until you need 4WD. With automatic locking hubs, no need to get out and perform that task either. AWD or full time 4WD vehicles, no need to shift into anything. The car senses any wheel that looses traction and transfers the power to wheels with traction.

FOR BAJA backroad driving: 4WD trucks or SUVs would be the wiser choice, as they will have better ground clearance for rocky roads and will likely have low range for any steep grades or tough conditions where slow, power crawling is needed. 4WD is made for off highway driving.

AWD is a superior handling traction system for cars on paved or wet/ icy/ gravel or graded roads... It should be fine in the sand with air pressure lowered, but I would avoid any non-graded roads if you choose AWD for Baja because of ground clearance.




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toneart
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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 11:31 AM


My experience is with a Ford F150 4WD, so I cannot compare with AWD. My neighbor has a Saturn with AWD and he says it handles better in snow and ice than 2WD.

When in the Northern Ca. mountains and in Baja, I drive on pavement and then hit long stretches of dirt roads. I am not off-roading per se, so I keep the tires inflated for highway driving...around 36-41 PSI.

When on the dirt roads I encounter different kinds of road surface; washboard and/or potholes with rounded edges (usually not the axle breaking kind you get with pavement), and sometimes deeper sandy areas. I put it into 4WD and it is always a smoother ride. I get better traction. Not so much slipping and sliding around. The washboards are still bumpy, but they seem less so in 4WD.

Where 4WD really comes in handy is in snow. I get better traction. The main safety factor is to drive very s-l-o-w-l-y in icy conditions. You are no safer in 4WD when you hit a patch of black ice. The key is to go slowly enough and anticipate the ice. Having your vehicle under control is much easier when driving slowly. I have seen too many young "hot dogs" who pass you under dangerous conditions and then they end up in a head-on collision, smashed into a tree, or over an embankment.:O




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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 11:34 AM


I always use 4WD when I get off the pavement for any distance. I think it handles better especially on sand roads. Another reason is when in 2WD there is more of a tendency for the rear wheels to spin and with some of the roads I've encountered in Baja the rocks can be sharp causing damage to the tires. 4WD less chance to spin the tires.
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Barry A.
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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 02:44 PM


How can allllllllllll you people refute my sage and learned advise on driving back country roads???? How embarrassing!!! :wow:

I except the challenge (despite knowing that it is all bunk) and will try and impliment your advice next time out and about--------if you are right, you probably will NEVER hear me admit it (unless bribed)

If I am RIGHT, then you will definitely hear about it-----------:lol:

Whoooo ahhhh!!!!

Barry
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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 03:12 PM


No worries. If we hear nothing, we know we are right, your silence will speak volumes, LOL!!!:biggrin:
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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 06:58 PM


Barry, you got there and back home the way you did, just fine... no worries!

With the newer shift-on-the-fly 4WD we have, it is easy to be driving 40-50 mph on a sandy, washboard road and click it into 4WD from 2WD and notice the difference in handeling, right away. You get a superior feel of control over your truck when it is in 4WD... less drifting or sliding.




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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 07:09 PM


-------thanks guys, and bottom line is that "less drifting and sliding" is what we are all after.

Possibly my problem is that both my Baja proven rigs are solid axle old style 4x4's ('94 Ford F-250 & '89 Isuzu Trooper--both stick shift). Even my 2007 X-terra Off-Road model does not have all the fancy new stuff on it, I don't think.

Thanks for keeping me honest. I need to drive one of these newer high-tech machines, I suppose.

Barry
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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 08:09 PM


I would not be so quick to blame or diss the old solid axle set-up. Mine is that way, 96, solid axle Dana 60, stick shift. It works outstanding on washboard roads. I think that suspension and tire combinations are very important in how the vehicle, any vehicle, will handle. I have in-cab adjustable shocks. On washboard or semi-smooth dirt I make it as soft as possible allowing the wheels to travel when they hit something instead of thumping over it. As I mentioned earlier, stiff suspension is a bummer.
My friend has the Off-Road X-terra and stock, he has the Eaton electric locker on the rear. The front is independent, but the differential is a open.
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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 08:15 PM


Another factor is weight over the rear axles. Pickups tend to get less traction from the rear wheels than SUV's - the added weight really does make a difference...



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[*] posted on 11-29-2009 at 08:51 PM


Uh, woody in ob,
The Psi on the tire sidewall is the Maximum safe pressure for that tire (determined by the manufacturer), not the recommended pressure. The recommended pressure (for the tire supplied by the vehicle manufacturer for the particular vehicle) is on a placard on the front door jam and is usually quite a bit lower than the Maximum pressure.

The carrying capacity of a tire increases with both size and pressure.
The traction increases with the contact patch area (which increases with lower pressure).

To sum up, if you have put on larger tires, you can air down to increase traction and also improve the ride quality since the tire asks as a spring and still have the same weight carrying ability as the stock size tires.

An example of this in the real world is 4WD Club runs where the maximum pressure allowed is 18 Psi to reduce trail damage due to tire slippage. Most of these vehicles have larger tires.

Off road race vehicles run around 35 Psi as a compromise between traction and rim cuts from hitting rocks, etc. at speed which push the tread up to the rim when too low a pressure is used.

Old (very old) race engineer)

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Circle Track Magazine
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and a few of several dozen books on automobile/racing design in one of my bookshelves:

CIMG0047 [800x600].JPG - 34kB




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[*] posted on 11-30-2009 at 07:33 AM


Neal. Wouldn't 32psi be awfully LOW for a Max Psi?
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[*] posted on 11-30-2009 at 08:27 AM


I think ALL OF YOUSE should get into your rigs and go test out these statements in BAJA, right now!!
C'mon now ... :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:




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[*] posted on 11-30-2009 at 09:03 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by Cyanide41
Neal. Wouldn't 32psi be awfully LOW for a Max Psi?


Struck me the same way.

Barry
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[*] posted on 11-30-2009 at 10:16 AM


My last set of tires were Toyos, now I am on a set of Cooper Discoverer ATRs... 265/70-16... nearly identical to the Toyos.

Max pressure listed on the sidewall: 44 PSI. Recommended pressure for my '05 4 door Tacoma listed in the door jam: 29 PSI front/ 32 PSI rear.




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[*] posted on 11-30-2009 at 10:49 AM


I am always skeptical of "recommended" tire pressures from the factory. They are nothing more than a basic guideline. Different tires have different sidewall structures and stiffness, it is not a "one size fits all" deal. I also find that the factory pressures tend to be low for ride comfort. My Maximum pressure is 65 psi, cold. I run them front and rear at 60, not for comfort, but the wear pattern dictates that that is the correct pressure. Anything lower I get cupping and excessive wear on the shoulder, more, I get excessive wear in the center. I started at 45, the "recommended " pressure.
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[*] posted on 11-30-2009 at 11:19 AM


Just checked a couple of tires on my vehicles -

235-75-R15 Max. load 2025 at 35psi. Max pressure 35. Veh. recom. 35psi. Bronco II

31-1050-R15 Max load 2250 at 50 psi. Max pressure 50. Veh. Recom. 35 psi. Bronco

33-1250-R17 Max load 2025 at 35 psi. Max pressure 35. On desert rail so no veh recom. Tire is a off road tire. (Interco TrXus M/T).

235-85-R16 Max load 3415 at 80psi. Max. pressure 80. F350. Veh. Recom. 51 Front 80 Rear (BFG)




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[*] posted on 11-30-2009 at 01:32 PM


Aired down, 2wd will get you almost anywhere. If you get stuck, then hit the magic button! My Tundras, 3 in 7 years, state that in wet/slippery conditions, you can use 4wd hi, up to 65mph. The feeling of control is simply great. If the rear slips, the front pulls. If the front slips, the rear pushes. Off road, I use 2wd till I get stuck, then use 4wd to get out and turn around. Aired down and "skimming" washboard fire roads is a blast! 4wd hi has given me the best results. I am still running the crappy BFG Rugged Trail T/A's that came O.E. The 275/65/18 Dueller A/T Revos have to wait until I can burn up these originals. The door sticker says 30psi F, 33psi R. Tires are rated 44psi max. I run 40 psi front and rear and for a crappy tire, they work so-so.
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[*] posted on 11-30-2009 at 02:05 PM


------I have destroyed 2 of those stock BFG Rugged Trails (only B rated), one a stick thru the sidewall, and the other a sharp rock thru the side wall, in the last 6 months on my X-Terra. I gave up on them and I have gone to E rated BFG All Terrain TA KO's (the only one's available from BFG for my size 265 x 75R 16's)----------we will see how they work. I carry about 35 to 40 lbs in them on the highway, and the ride is fine, and no noise. 25 lbs off road.

(tech info: Neal John's) :spingrin:

Barry
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