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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
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Here's a good, affordable program to play with.
http://www.amazon.com/Corel-Painter-Essentials-Win-Mac/dp/B0...
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BajaNomad
Super Administrator
Posts: 4999
Registered: 8-1-2002
Location: San Diego, CA
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http://www.gimp.org
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GIMP
[Edited on 12-29-2009 by BajaNomad]
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
https://www.regionalinternet.com
Affordable Domain Name Registration/Management & cPanel Web Hosting - since 1999 |
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LaTijereta
Super Nomad
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Ken Bondy
Just for kicks, and because I have no life, I took Roger's first (unmanipulated) image, brought it into Photoshop (CS3), and used the "Autolevels"
function. Here's what I got. I think it is very similar to the enhanced image produced by Picasa:
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I also use Photoshop "CS2" , and it helps to clean up background noise with most images...
It works best to see both images side by side, and adjust manually as needed.
I am currently scaning about a couple of thousand slides through a Nikon CoolscanV I pickup earlier this year.
The Photoshop program sure is bring these old "chromes" back to life
Democracy is like two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
Ben Franklin (1759)
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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BACKGROUND/FOREGROUND - HORIZONS - CENTERING
Many thanks for all the helpful suggestions and comments. I have a few more Baja pictures to post, you know! And my
photo-knowledge quiver could use some more arrows.
I'm making some progress, and mostly having great fun, in learning newer and better photo techniques.
Your responses on enhancing an image were very helpful.
Now I am interested in:
1. BACKGROUND/FOREGROUND
Say you want to take a picture of an object, or of a person, and you have some choice of what will be in the background. How much subject
matter is suitable in the photo frame? What are you opinions on these next three (3) photos and the amount subject matter they contain?
Do you think they are...Okay...Too much...Not enough??
Which one/s do you prefer?
Does anything give the photo character or make it more interesting?
How much subject matter should be in the background..or foreground?
You don't have to give an expert's opinion on this, I am interested in what YOU think makes a good photo. Your candid comments are sought...and
thanks!
PHOTO 1 - background/foreground
PHOTO 2 - background/foreground
PHOTO 3 - background/foreground
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. HORIZONS
I am trying this...putting the horizon either one-third of the way up the picture, or two-thirds of the way up, not halfway.
Here are 2 examples:
PHOTO 1 - one-third horizon
PHOTO 2 - two-thirds horizon
Again, your comments please?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. CENTERING
I am experimenting with not getting my subject dead in the center of the picture. So as to show off the background and add a nice 3D depth effect to
the shot, I am moving the subject off to the side and taking in the background.
I was reminded of an often-mentioned very basic “rule” of composition: The rule of threes, aka the rule of thirds. I had just bought
this nice Nikon D40 and noticed that I could have the display show a grid of three-by-three squares (like a tic-tac-toe) over the picture I was
taking. I looked this up and found out about this rule of the thirds.
The rule basically says, divide your frame into three rows and three columns, roughly equal in width and height, like drawing a
tic-tac-toe (i.e divide your picture into thirds, vertically and horizontally). See middle photo below. Now, try to align most (or
the strongest) horizontal lines and vertical lines in your shot with the edges of the rows and columns (i.e. with the tic-tac-toe).
Like I said earlier, have the horizon be either one-third of the way up the picture, or two-thirds of the way up...not in the middle or half-way.
Also, try to put your subject (or whatever details of the picture are important or draw the eye) on one of the four places where the tic-tac-toe lines
intersect. This will make your pictures appear expertly composed (and incidentally will make for better computer wallpapers, leaving room for your
icons).
Here are some examples for you:
PHOTO 1 - centered subject
PHOTO 2 - grid (tic-tac-toe) photo form
PHOTO 3 - grid result
.
Well, what do YOU think of the Rule of Thirds? Thanks for your input.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
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The Rule Of Thirds is primary for pleasing composition.
That said....rules, especially this one, are made to be broken. The subject matter at the moment will dictate the most effective composition.
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Acuity
Nomad
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Location: Comox, BC, and Todos Santos
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Mood: Craving sleep!
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My 2c. There has to be a reason for foreground and background. I think pic #1 has too much that doesn't add to the story. As for "rule of thirds" -
it does work, generally. Images dead center usually don't. There are many other "rules".
Here are two books I (and many others) have found useful
The Photographer's Eye: Composition and Design for Better Digital Photos (Paperback)
by Michael Freeman
Within the Frame: The Journey of Photographic Vision (Paperback)
by David duChemin.
I think you need to learn and use the "rules" first, then you can decide when they are appropriate and when they aren't.
... and please keep up your postings - I love them!!
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wessongroup
Platinum Nomad
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Mood: Suicide Hot line ... please hold
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Would agree with the Photoshop use.. it is still a very solid application.. albeit a bit slow, due to the learning curve, as noted by DianaT.. would
also add, that if you don't use the application, and you tend to forget things.. it will be a real pain, as I'm always having to go back and re-read
how to do things..
I don't use the application nor the rest of the "suite" of applications on a daily basis any more.. and there is really a lot you learn to use...
But, in many cases the work is worth the reward.. and if you don't mind doing things just like Ken did, you end up with even more flexibility in your
photography ... a very useful and a lot of fun tool "Photoshop"
As usual, great shots, great information... thanks 
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ELINVESTIG8R
Select Nomad
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Pompano you is creative! I like the following photos of the ones you have changed!
PHOTO 2 - Background/Foreground (Can you fix the chair?)
PHOTO 1 - Horizons - one-third horizon
I don't think you wanted us to do anything on the tic-tac-toe one did you? It was more of a tutorial right?
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chernefitter
Junior Nomad
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I like the left photos...a little brighter. Hey can I use your boat? J.K. John Orange.
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
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Location: Bahia Asuncion
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Interesting thread to which I hope to add more with time. The foreground/background image I usually consider as a 'framed' subject. And I particularly
like this one. The long side-to-side archway emphasizes the broadness of the horizon and greatly emhances the image to my viewpoint. I have taken the
liberty to edit this image to bring this idea even stronger. I also tilted the horizon 1 degree counterclockwise to get the arch parallel with frame.
After resisting all forms of photomanipulation in the begining I have come over to embrace and use it judicially to improve digitally images. My
experience with 'autolevels' has been so negative that I no longer even consider it with any image.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Thanks Igor, I also prefer the arch frame to showcase the peaceful 'before the action' photo.
Here's a couple questions: You did a great job of editing my photo. If I don't use the 'autolevel' editing features of my available computer
programs, what do I use? (I have Windows, Paint, Picassa at my disposal, but have almost zero hours flying time.)
You also tilted the horizon 1 degree counterclockwise to get the arch parallel with frame. Bravo, I like that refinement, but how did you do
it? So far, I can rotate either direction in quarter turns only..90 degree increments.
Thanks, Roger
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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I usually crop out too much blue sky...leave the cool clouds and the reflection of stuff in the ocean...liked the tic tac toe composition best. I try
to get my horizons fairly straight when I take the photo but can straighten it a bit with the straighten feature on Picasa.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Whoa....thanks shari and Igor. I just found out how to 'straighten' the photo using Picassa...one down, many to go!
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8084
Registered: 7-12-2004
Location: Bahia Asuncion
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Roger,
I use photoshop CS3 rather than Picassa so I'm not familiar with the options you have available. However, both applications should have some similar
options. CS3's autolevel should be similar to Picassa's 'I am feeling lucky'. A far more powerful option in CS3 is the manual 'Levels' menu. That
let's you change the tone histogram of your image.
To be honest, Roger, the best way to get all of this information has been to get one of those how to do it books available in some of the better
camera shops on the subject. There is just too much power in that software to figure it all out. Much is useful to professionals and of little value
to people like us. I don't know what's available for Picassa.
Here's what helped me a lot using photoshop:
http://www.amazon.com/Scott-Kelbys-7-Point-System-Photoshop/dp/0321501926/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1262619721&sr=8-1
This book takes 20 images and goes through all of the steps needed to improve them. Then provides a system (a recipe). This sort of approach to
learning is far better than getting a user's guide.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Thanks Igor, I am off to have a MRA (to find my brain) and after that will stop off at a camera shop right across from Fisherman's Landing in Shelter
Island. I'll get thier recommendation on a good 'how-to-do' digital camera book and hopefully learn a few new techniques.
That is a good site you posted about Photoshop. I like the method used in sequencing the photos showing the changes available. I'll be studying it
further.
God willing and the synapse/creek don't rise..I will be posting better photos soon. Look forward to following those good 'recipes'.
'
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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tripledigitken
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4848
Registered: 9-27-2006
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Roger,
I can recommend the Nikon School seminars that are held each year. They are 2 all day seminars. I have attended both of them and think you would
find them wothwhile. (They are not specifically for Nikon users for anyone else interested.)
Here is the link:
http://www.nikonusa.com/Learn-And-Explore/Nikon-School/Sched...
You asked just what steps in editing photos does one use in Photoshop.
Here are my steps I use on most shots, with the CS2 version:
Crop
Levels adjustment and or curves
Saturation (usually less not more)
Sharpen...in photoshop "unsharp mask"
Most digital cameras now have built in contrast adjustment, hue, white balance, color, saturation, sharpness. Depending on the camera or how you
modify these adjustments effect greatly how your image comes out. I'm speaking JPEG images not RAW (which are basically neutral coming out of the
camera, to be manipulated in the editing process).
My editing goal is to create an image as I remember it when I shot it. The camera seldom produces that "remembered" image. So, with editing, you
attempt to bring that image back to the one you saw.
For images used online I work mainly in JPEG and have over the years made the in camera adjustments more neutral. With the editing variables
mentioned above I usually get the shot where i want it, assuming it was well exposed to begin with.
Here is an example of an interior shot without flash. It was very flat because of the low light condition.
The finished image with curves, increased exposure, lower saturation, and sharpen adjustments.
[Edited on 1-5-2010 by tripledigitken]
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8084
Registered: 7-12-2004
Location: Bahia Asuncion
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Shadow/highlights adjustment
Roger,
One of the recent (to me) additions to photoshop has been the shadow/highlights option in the adjustments menu. I found this to be a very useful
feature. It allows you to lighten/darken shadows or highlights independent of one another. Many pictures are shot so that either one or the other
looks right (shadows or highlights) and the other is off. Another words the shadows look right but the sky is palid or the sky is right and the
shadows are jet black. But to the naked eye it doesn't look that way.
Anyway, here is a picture of an oak I took at Coe State Park. I wanted the grass to appear golden so I metered to get that result. When I got home I
saw that the shadows were way too strong.
None of my endeavors with Photoshop 7.0 could resurrect this image. Then along came CS3 with the shadow/highlights feature and the image came back to
life as I remembered it. I lightened the shadows to bring out the bark in the tree but this caused the grass to pale. So I darkened the highlights
which caused a color change as well. It's not where I would like it to be but it's better than what I started with.
Try this feature after you get your CS3, Roger. It's real easy to pick up also.
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Stickers
Senior Nomad
Posts: 571
Registered: 4-12-2006
Location: SoCal
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test 3
This photo is a direct attachment non hosted but with low resolution it is only 40kb.
I finally figured out how to do this large enough to be useful. Just set the size big with resolution small.
Now if I had done this last month when I took the picture with my cellphone you could have saved money on a Pacifico at Wahoo Fish Tacos.
[Edited on 1-5-2010 by Stickers]
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Muchas gracias one and all. There's a wealth of information and helpful advice/opinion in the preceding posts. I am busy wading
through all the suggestions.
Hopefully I will repay your kindness with better photos of Baja in the coming months...or wherever I and my camera are rambling!
p.s. stickers, looks like you've got it sized right to fit the screen. And a good choice of beer, too.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
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http://www.gimp.org/
Rogelio - this is free and does most of photo shop for less, free.
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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