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Taco de Baja
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Location: Behind the Orange Curtain, CA
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It was an option when I bought my 4-cyl 1996 Tacoma, so it goes back at least that far, not sure about the 1995.5 Tacoma.
For the pre-Tacoma pick-up trucks, there are several companies, like ARB, that made/make aftermarket lockers. I don't think Toyota offered a factory
locker for the pre-Tacoma trucks.
Remember that sometimes a locker will dig you in deeper when traveling in sand, as a buddy found out in his 2000-something 2-wheel drive 4-Runner with
a locker...He buried it so deep the vehicle was completely resting on the gas tank, transmission, exhaust and frame with the wheels spinning
freely.... Major PITA to dig him out.
Truth generally lies in the coordination of antagonistic opinions
-Herbert Spencer
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Barry A.
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To date, (knock on wood) I have never been really stuck in any kind of sand with my 2007 Nissan X-terra with an engaged factory elec. rear
locker-----I have been stuck several times when the locker was turned off, but the engagement of the rear locker has always gotten me out (so far)
without letting any more air out tho I normally run 25 lbs in the dirt/45 lbs on the hyway. I have 265 BFG TA tires all around.
I stay away from mud when possible so have little experience with it other than being horribly stuck in it from time to time (that is why I now have a
winch and a pull-pal).
I have been stuck in sand with a normal 4x4 pickup with big tires (285's) and no locker many times, mostly on Baja Cortez-side beaches-------but
letting the air down to say 12 lbs has always (so far) saved me. We are talking a pickup w/ 1000 lb camper in this case, and no trailer.
Just my personal experience, and take it for what you think it worth. 
Barry
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durrelllrobert
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| Quote: | | Quote: | | Quote: | Toyota pickup.
[Edited on 4-17-2010 by MitchMan] |
I posted this before but in a real emergency you can use your starter motor to pull you out of sand when you are stuck. Just pull your spark plugs to
eliminate compression(I always carry the wrench), put it in low gear and engage the starter. The large ratio between the starter gear and the teeth on
the fly wheel (about 30 to 1) will pull you out and then you just reinstall the plugs and drive off. |
Great idea, but this only works with a stick-shift veh., not an automatic-tranny veh., I believe .
Barry |
ABSOLUTELY CORRECT
Bob Durrell
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MitchMan
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After reading all the great helpful advice and comments on this thread and after researching hours and hours on the web, I have kind of narrowed it
down to one of three rear differentials that I can afford: 1) Detroit TruTrac LSD? 2)Automatic PowerTrax No-Slip Lockers? 3)Toyota E-Lockers?
You guys know the Baja pretty well; after any rain you get the flooded streets of La Paz and Cabo and muddy dirt roads between the paved roads and the
beaches , then when it's hot and dry you get the soft sandy beaches and rough dry dirt roads.
All things considered, which of the three above-mentioned differentials would be the best all-around choice for a 1st generation 4x4 4 cyl Tacoma?
[Edited on 4-20-2010 by MitchMan]
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Taco de Baja
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| Quote: | Originally posted by MitchMan
After reading all the great helpful advice and comments on this thread and after researching hours and hours on the web, I have kind of narrowed it
down to one of three rear differentials that I can afford: 1) Detroit TruTrac LSD? 2)Automatic PowerTrax No-Slip Lockers? 3)Toyota E-Lockers?
You guys know the Baja pretty well; after any rain you get the flooded streets of La Paz and Cabo and muddy dirt roads between the paved roads and the
beaches , then when it's hot and dry you get the soft sandy beaches and rough dry dirt roads.
All things considered, which of the three above-mentioned differentials would be the best all-around choice for a 1st generation 4x4 4 cyl Tacoma?
[Edited on 4-20-2010 by MitchMan] |
I would go with the Toyota Locker, as you can choose when you want it locked, and when you don’t. However, that being said, if you want the factory
Toyota E-locker to work anytime, you will also have to do the "grey-wire mod". Otherwise it will only work when the vehicle in is 4-Low. This is a
fairly easy fix, but something to keep in mind. You can search for it on-line, but here is a quick write-up:
Tacoma Grey-wire Mod.
You may also have to get a donor rear axel-with the e-locker pre-installed, as I don't think you can just pop the factory e-locker into a non e-locker
axel housing.....And that may make it as expensive as an other option you did not mention:
the ARB air locker.....
Truth generally lies in the coordination of antagonistic opinions
-Herbert Spencer
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Maderita
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MitchMan,
If you take your time and hunt, then you might find a deal on a good used Toyota factory rear e-locker. Just make sure that it has the same gear
ratio. Otherwise you will be changing a ring & pinion set, negating any possible savings. Unless you do the axle swap yourself, it is unlikley
that you will save much money vs. purchasing an aftermarket locker.
A little research shows the Tacoma 1st gen = 1995-2004 model years, with an 8" (that's ring gear diameter) rear axle.
Aftermarket locking diffs for this should include the ARB "Air-Locker" and Detroit (Eaton Corp.) "Softlocker", per this link:
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#T100-Tundra
Both are on my top 3 list of durable/reliable units.
If you are not familiar with the ARB Air-Locker, they have been around a long time. Made in Australia. Requires a source of compressed air, usually an
ARB pump mounted to the frame at additional cost. The pump can also be used for inflating tires with an added air fitting. A larger air tank can be
mounted under the frame. "Onboard air" in a great addition to any offroad vehicle. It is activated by the flip on a switch, so you only use the locker
when needed, thereby avoiding any undesireable characteristics on the highway. My 4x4 Ford E350 van has an ARB in the rear axle, 5 gallon air tank,
with air fittings installed fore and aft. The only problem I've had, and heard of from others, is a loss of pressure from a leaking air line between
the pump and the differential.
The Detroit Softlocker is a newer version of the Detroit Locker/TracTech or "No-Spin" which has been around for decades with high reliability and
strength. It is a full-time locker. Can't be beat for it's offroad capability, but many would find it's quirky characteristics undesirable on the
pavement. It chirps the tires on turns, makes loud clunks at odd times, and has torque steer (pulls to the side) when getting on or off the throttle.
The Softlocker has the same performance with reportedly milder "side effects". I've owned a number of Detroit Lockers on a variety of vehicles, but
never tried a Softlocker.
If Eaton Corp. is now making an E-Locker for the Toyota, I'd highly recommend it. It is part-time, electromagnetically engaged at the touch of a
button. Impressed by the one in my Wrangler with a Ford 8.8" rear axle.
It is holding up to the abuse of 260 hp, 33" mud terrain tires, and jumping sand dunes with paddles.
None of those options comes cheap. Probably $600 to $900 + installation.
You mentioned the Detroit TruTrac Limited Slip. Why spend the money and not have a locking diff when you need it? It is better than a conventional
open diff, but falls well short of the superiority of a locker.
The Richmond PowerTrax "No-Slip"/"Lock-Right" and Detroit "EZ Locker" are drop-in units that go into the existing carrier. This saves cost and makes
installation easy. These "lunchbox lockers" are junk in my opinion. At least Eaton/Detroit admits they are for light/medium duty applications. They
might be appropriate for a front axle, with occasional use, (and in your case a 4 cyl engine). If used in the rear axle, (or with high hp and/or big
tires) it is a time bomb. When (notice I didn't say "if") it explodes, the metal shards will destroy the rest of your differential and bearings. Then
you will have to pay out $1000-$2000 for being a cheapskate and not spending the additional $400 for a real locker the first time around! (been there,
done that).
See there? I just saved you a thousand dollars or more! Now take the money and go get yourself a free locking diff. (Just trying to help, in case you
need a way to rationalize the purchase).
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durrelllrobert
Elite Nomad
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| Quote: | Originally posted by whistler
On most late model manual tranny vehicles you have to depress the clutch before it will crank.You would have to disable this feature before it will
work. |
never had a late model tranny truck. my experiences getting stuck in desert were all with pre 70's trucks. now i'm a lazy auto guy that doesn't get
stuck (in sand)
Bob Durrell
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edm1
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Maderita, welcome to the board. Excellent post. I'm adding you to my "must read" list; I know I and others will be learning a lot from you.
I got stuck alone with my dog in deep sand one July north of Bahia Sta Maria and I know the feeling. I had an ARB locker only in the rear dually axle
of my 22-ft motorhome and didn't have a drive axle at the front (aka 2WD). Now, I have a Dana 60 up front with an ARB as well. The only drawback now
is when locked, the front is more difficult to steer; it just wants to plow ahead. I can only imagine locking the front to prevent from or to get out
of getting stuck so the front locker probably won't see many miles, but the miles it will see will be crucial.
Again, welcome to the board.
Art
[Edited on 4-30-2010 by edm1]
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MitchMan
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Good post Maderita. Definitive, logical, knowledgeable and well written supported post is very helpful. Thanks.
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classicbajabronco
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remember if you plan to air down, bring a pump so you can airback up before you hit the payment.
Don't give teh truck lots of gas when you start to move or you will spin your tires and sink.
Dont break hard of your front end will dive and create a big hole you will later need to climb out of.
I run a detroit locker in my 66 bronco and 8psi and I don't even need to put it in 4wd in the cortez sand.
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David K
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Yah, it is mostly about air pressure in the sand... You see the local fishermen tending to their nets on Shell Island (north of Bahia Santa Maria
where edm1 stuck his van) in 2WD pick ups. I know people who drove their huge Pace Arrow motor home out on that beach too... and it isn't 4WD... Air
pressure is the key... Unless you have the new Toyota traction control (A-TRAC) set up, then perhaps not.
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classicbajabronco
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| Quote: | Originally posted by durrelllrobert
| Quote: | Originally posted by MitchMan
Last August I took my son on a fishing excursion to fish Ceralvo island in La Paz and we got stuck and lost about a mile away from where we should
have been on very soft sand with my 2.8L V6 S10 4x4 Chevy Blazer. We were there in 95 degree weather from 6 am to about 2pm without air conditioning.
Not fun. Luckily I had good cell phone service. I called everyone I knew and the Los Planes police finally found us and pulled us out with his 4
banger 1985 4x4 Toyota pickup.
[Edited on 4-17-2010 by MitchMan] |
I posted this before but in a real emergency you can use your starter motor to pull you out of sand when you are stuck. Just pull your spark plugs to
eliminate compression(I always carry the wrench), put it in low gear and engage the starter. The large ratio between the starter gear and the teeth on
the fly wheel (about 30 to 1) will pull you out and then you just reinstall the plugs and drive off. |
what happens when you starter burns out and your still stuck in the sand? I
guess this is when you jack up the rig and stuff that nasty ex-wife of yours in the hole you made spinning the tires
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durrelllrobert
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| Quote: | Originally posted by classicbajabronco
I guess this is when you jack up the rig and stuff that nasty ex-wife of yours in the hole you made spinning the tires |
Hopefully she was under the tires the whole time
Bob Durrell
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Baja12valve
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Edm1 has a very valid point, steering is a big issue with a front locker. With both wheels spinning at the same rate, your vehicle is difficult to
steer. Front lockers work best in a straight line. Terrible in mud, snow or rain. I would not get a automatic locker for the rear. They will have a
tendency to lock up as you go around a corner and if you are in a wet situation, you will easily spin out. A selectable locker is best.
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David K
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Toyota's 'A-TRAC' has no steering issues, but creates locker-like traction when needed... and it comes from the factory.
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classicbajabronco
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just throw in hydraulic assisted power steering and you will be able to turn that front locked axle easily....
Another great locking dif is the Ox locker. It is a manually activated locker that is actived with a cable. Very simple and very strong...correction:
it is used in the australian outback...but made in the good ol' us of a
http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/
[Edited on 5-26-2010 by classicbajabronco]
[Edited on 5-26-2010 by classicbajabronco]
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David K
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Alice Springs?
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