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desertcpl
Super Nomad
Posts: 2396
Registered: 10-26-2008
Location: yuma,az
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Shari
nicely done, great photo essay, your getting as good as Pampano
DK
I knew you would come thru with the maps,, nice
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
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Mood: undecided
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shari, Thanks for the report. Made the trip once from Mulege south to San Blas to La Purisima to Comondu to San Javier to Loreto and back to Mulege.
Spent the night at the first farm on the west side of Comondu. Good times.
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BajaGringo
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3922
Registered: 8-24-2006
Location: La Chorera
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Mood: Let's have a BBQ!
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Cypress
shari, Thanks for the report. Made the trip once from Mulege south to San Blas to La Purisima to Comondu to San Javier to Loreto and back to Mulege.
Spent the night at the first farm on the west side of Comondu. Good times.
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Wonderful photos and story - thanks for sharing them Shari!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64848
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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As you can imagine, there is a lot of history in San Jose Comondu and San Miguel, next door.
They started out as visitas (mission visiting stations)... San Miguel was a visita of San Javier. Today's San Jose Comondu site was first called 'San
Ignacio' and was a visita of Comondu. The mission of San Jose de Comodu was founded in 1708, over 20 miles away, at the site now called Comondu Viejo
between Rancho San Juan and La Presa.
In 1737, the mission was moved to San Miguel briefly and then finally to Vistita 'San Ignacio', at which point the name was changed to that of the
mission's 'San Jose de Comondu'.
The mission grew to be the largest in all the California's... it was magnificient with arches, pillars, something special in the 1750's.
When the Franciscans replaced the Jesuits in 1768, they 'stripped' San Jose de Comondu of much, and used it to adorn their new missions in Alta
California... San Diego being the major benefactor.
By the early 1900's the mission was in poor condition and in 1936 it was torn down to build a school. The priest's quarters was left standing and that
is what is now is shown as the mission, having been converted to a church. The school that replaced the mission has since been torn down...
The two close by mission era sites of San Miguel and San Jose de Comondu were re-populated by Mexicans from the mainland as well as any natives that
survived by joining with Spanish soldiers (Arce's, etc.)... The names adjusted a bit to San Miguel Comondu and San Jose Comondu and had a combined
population of 720 in 1960... split about equally between them.
When Highway 1 was re-routed through Loreto, the lack of communication, loss of travelers, and other factors have nearly doomed these oasis villages.
In 1906:
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BajaRat
Super Nomad
Posts: 1303
Registered: 3-2-2010
Location: SW Four Corners / Bahia Asuncion BCS
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Mood: Ready for some salt water with my Tecate
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Now this is Baja Nomads at its best!
Thanks Shari. I'm sure that fine wine is gonna be gone by the time we get down in Feb. We'll have to bring some Misson Santo Tomas to get over that.
Lionel
P.S. often times the horned figures represent the Shaman.
[Edited on 1-20-2011 by BajaRat]
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KurtG
Super Nomad
Posts: 1205
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Location: California Central Coast
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Mood: Press On Regardless!!
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Shari,
I have loved visiting the Comondu's since I first rode my bike in there years ago. Kathy and I were there in March last year and I was very impressed
that the old ruins in San Miguel that were just facades had been painted and a lot of decoration added that hadn't been there the last time I visited.
In the past I always motorcycled in from either San Isidro or San Javier but in recent years have been warned by the locals to avoid those roads. I
will probably try the San Javier road sometime this Spring since another rider posted their story of going through there recently. I was very
surprised to see the paving on the road in from the West, it was nearly done when we were there. I think that a guesthouse there would be great, I
know that friends have rented a room in San Jose but not sure where. Some of your photos are absolute duplicates of ours! I think that La
Purisima/San Isidro and the Comondu's are about the prettiest spots in all of Baja, I am also in the minority that thinks the road from San Isidro to
Hwy 1 is just wonderful. We drove it in the Explorer last trip and while it was slow and rougher than in past years that just meant we had more time
to look at the incredible scenery.
Kurt
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Heather
Nomad
Posts: 370
Registered: 10-31-2002
Location: National City, CA
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Shari, I really enjoyed your report and feel like I visited Comondu with you! I know what you mean about supporting the economy. Whenever we get out
to the ranchos around Cabo, my hubby always has to buy something, even if he sees someone walking down the road with a bucket! We usually get the
food: queso, dulce de guyaba, dried mangoes, etc.
We once made a trip with my in-laws, from La Paz to Cabo, with about 10 stops to buy or pick something or the other!
Thanks for the report. Saludos, Heather
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Martyman
Super Nomad
Posts: 1904
Registered: 9-10-2004
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Thanks Shari;
Great Report! gotta love that homemade pomegranate wine.
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BajaNomad
Super Administrator
Posts: 4999
Registered: 8-1-2002
Location: San Diego, CA
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Mood: INTP-A
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
thanks for this trip report. It is one of Nomad's best... |
I concur. A fantastic report. Thank you.
Michelle and I were last through the Comondus over 10 years ago. Came through there from San Javier.
Always enjoy the area of La Purisima. Seems like the people here might be a little too isolated though. Just my own personal observations and
experience.
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
https://www.regionalinternet.com
Affordable Domain Name Registration/Management & cPanel Web Hosting - since 1999 |
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rts551
Elite Nomad
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Nice picures. I have also done this loop (Semana Santa 3-4 years ago). Used to be a Gringo lived full-time in La Purisima but alas he passed on a
couple of years ago. While some bemoan the remoteness of these towns, I would ate to see them take on atmosphere of San Juanico.
Another view
some parts of the road not bad
[Edited on 1-20-2011 by rts551]
[Edited on 1-20-2011 by rts551]
[Edited on 1-20-2011 by rts551]
[Edited on 1-21-2011 by BajaNomad]
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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thank you for sharing my trip amigos and your comments do my heart good....I am extremely moved and inspired to help shed some light on this special
place and its people...cant wait to go back.
the locals ALL suggested NOT taking that back road to La Purisima...not that you wouldnt make it but if there were some "falla mechanica o
tecnica"...well...youd be screwed...there is like no traffic on that road....make sure you pack extra water dudes!
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Bajaboy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4375
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Bahia Asuncion, BCS, Mexico
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We made the trek down from Bahia Asuncion to Loreto and then over the mountains a few years back. It was an incredible trip but the stretch of road
from Comondu to La Purisima required 4wd. We met Leopold Murillo who lives across from the Mission. He invited us to tour is garden which was
extensive. He also insisted we taste the tap water. At first we were apprehensive but then went for it. It was sweet, cold, and refreshing.
Leopold said the water was over 1000 years old.
We then headed out to San Gregorio which is one of our favorite beaches in Baja. We stumbled onto this place after we did a good deed....karma at its
finest. Anyways, here are some photos:
http://picasaweb.google.com/ZAJohnston/SummerTrip#
Zac
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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hey that was a cool blast from the past Zac...I'd forgotton about you tearing down the old panga garage!!! LOved your photo of the aquaducto...great
angle and Sr. Murillo...neat-O
I'm gonna try the water next time then!
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b1
Junior Nomad
Posts: 51
Registered: 12-27-2007
Location: On the Reality side of the Paradise/Reality border
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Mood: Kicked it in neutral; hang'n cool.
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Hi Shari, nice trip report and photos. (God willing and the creeks don't rise too much we will be seeing you in about 3 weeks).
Just as you describe, I was enchanted with that box canyon filled with palm trees and both Comondu' villages. Lots of water, beautiful flower
gardens, big vegetable gardens, domestic pigs tied to trees with ropes, folks making brown sugar, etc. etc. When the sun is either just rising of
just about to set, the colors on the rocks of that canyon can be stunning.
We took about a week and drove atv's from Mulege to Rancho Ballena (where Mike and Don-Kay are tonight according to David K's post), down to Cadeje,
to San Juanico to La Purisma to San Isidro to San Jose de Comondu' and San Miguel de Comondu' then back over the peninsula over to San Nicolas on the
SOC.
I will try to add just a a few photos of my own.
Here is the cemetery on top of the box canyon as we came down into San Jose de Comondu' from San Isidro. Parts of the cemetary were ancient.
Here is a donkey powered grinding wheel:
The new town sign:
Stayed at this nice little casita for $7 a night U.S.
Poster on the Mission to celebrate its 300th:
The outside of the Mission getting the entrance steps refurbished for the 300th Birthday bash:
The step workers who were very nice:
Inside the Mission....I thought the the old lava rock masonary work at 300 years old was just WOW:
Some arches like you saw (these were in San Miguel de Comondu):
And finially, the very friendly folks were making brown sugar the day we left:
I have lots more, especially inside the Mission, but this gives you an idea. The little road between the two towns was being redone with new cement
when we were there as well. We were also able to convince a very nice lady in town to fix our meals and let us eat with her family in her house.
Very accommodating. b1
When the winds turn white in Idaho, it\'s my time to visit the banana trees of Baja.
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BajaNomad
Super Administrator
Posts: 4999
Registered: 8-1-2002
Location: San Diego, CA
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| Quote: | Originally posted by rts551
Used to be a Gringo lived full-time in La Purisima... |
Is that Gary - or someone else you're referring to?
Thanks,
-
Doug
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
https://www.regionalinternet.com
Affordable Domain Name Registration/Management & cPanel Web Hosting - since 1999 |
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Iflyfish
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3747
Registered: 10-17-2006
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This is the wonder of Baja, such a hidden treasure. Memorable trip report, like taking the journey with you. So much magic in the Baja. Great pics and
discriptions of this out of the way jewel.
Thanks,
Iflyfish
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motoged
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6481
Registered: 7-31-2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Mood: Gettin' Better
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Shari,
A moving trip report...that clearly shares the emotion of your experience. Places like this open one's heart....your photos and impressions only make
it so much more important that I spend a bit more time there on my ride through that area in February. My plans have been altered now to take a few
days away from my Mulege plans to spend them between La Purisima and Los Comondus.
I only wish my Spanish was better so as to benefit from what sounds like the graciousness of those who live there.
Your sharing has touched us....gracias, hermana.
Don't believe everything you think....
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64848
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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What is special is that here we can all share the wonders of Baja... and it only enhances the place (it doesn't ruin it)...
The mission was founded in 1708, but over 20 miles away... at Comondu Viejo.
It was moved to its final location in 1737... and the stone mission complex was built in the 1750's.
What is called the mission today, was the padre's quarters or a side chapel The main church, the largest built in all of California... was torn down
around 1936.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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B-1 thanks for your report...I am enjoying learning more about my new love!!! and now have so much to look forward to...like how to make brown sugar!
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desertcpl
Super Nomad
Posts: 2396
Registered: 10-26-2008
Location: yuma,az
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this has really been interesting, both the photos and story.
I am fascinated with the remote Ranches and villages of Baja.
I would love to read more about them and there daily lives , what there houses look like both out side and inside, what there daily diet might be
like, what they grow and trade for, they must very self sufficient
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