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volcano
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Posts: 348
Registered: 3-5-2007
Location: Cave Junction, Oregon and Boca Del Salado area, Ea
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Mood: always pining to be there
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I think the 2500 L pila is probably about 6 or 8 feet higher at the base than the faucets inside the cabin. the run to the cabin is about 75 feet. we
just buried pvc of 3/4 ". I think next year, when the tank drains again, (I'm in Oregon again), I will raise the tank by 3 concrete blocks...and see
if that improves the pressure enough. My vehicle parks 100 feet away.
If I get an rv pump, and pressure tank ..where would they be set up? on the house end of the run?
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Islandbuilder
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The pump can go anywhere on the water line, wherever it's easy. They make a little noise (more as they get older), so I wouldn't put it under the
bed.
They have a built-in check valve that prevents pressure loss back toward the tank. If you don't install a small accumulator tank it will run every
time you turn on the tap. A accumulator tank will allow the pump to run only every few quarts, or gallons, depending on the capacity of the tank. The
drain on your battery will be the same regardless, the pump will still pump as many gallons as you use. It will run less often, but longer each time.
I will raise a question for others to answer for you:
How about going to a 24v DC system instead of 12v? Pros and cons?
[Edited on 3-8-2012 by Islandbuilder]
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bajaguy
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Hmmmmmmm
Maybe a 12 volt RV/Deep cycle battery, a small solar panel to maintain/charge the battery and a 12 volt RV on demand water pump.
http://www.campingworld.com/index.cfm?affiliateid=1491
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gnukid
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A simple solution is a sunshower bag, make a mini tower with 10x1x2 to haul up the bag in the air using a simple line and block, fill it up, raise it
up and take a shower. No power, no cables, no batteries, hot water pressurized shower.
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bajaguy
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| Quote: | Originally posted by soulpatch
Friction loss on 3/4 inch is huge.
PVC is cheap so consider putting in 1 inch line and then put the pump and, if you want to spend the dollars, the pressure tank near your electrical
source since 12v DC has it's own "friction loss" issues with small wire.
Elevating your tank a few cinder blocks 75 feet away isn't going to produce much more than a sore back.
I got a closeout washdown pump from West Marine for pretty cheap and it is my back up pump.... always good to have a spare when the replacement part
is hundreds of miles away. |
Hey, thought you would have an American LaFrance triple pumper as a back-up!!!!! 
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Alan
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| Quote: | Originally posted by bajaguy
| Quote: | Originally posted by soulpatch
Friction loss on 3/4 inch is huge.
PVC is cheap so consider putting in 1 inch line and then put the pump and, if you want to spend the dollars, the pressure tank near your electrical
source since 12v DC has it's own "friction loss" issues with small wire.
Elevating your tank a few cinder blocks 75 feet away isn't going to produce much more than a sore back.
I got a closeout washdown pump from West Marine for pretty cheap and it is my back up pump.... always good to have a spare when the replacement part
is hundreds of miles away. |
Hey, thought you would have an American LaFrance triple pumper as a back-up!!!!! |
Be very careful, I think your age is showing. I haven't heard them referred to as a triple combination
in I can't remember how long Of course the simple fact that I knew what you
were talking about exposes my age too.
In Memory of E-57
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bajaguy
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Yup, very old!!!
| Quote: | | Quote: | Originally posted by Alan
Hey, thought you would have an American LaFrance triple pumper as a back-up!!!!!
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Be very careful, I think your age is showing. I haven't heard them referred to as a triple combination in
I can't remember how long Of course the simple fact that I knew what you were
talking about exposes my age too. |
Yeah, maybe Soulpatch is too young!!!!!!
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larryC
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I can see worrying about friction loss if you were trying to pump 100 gpm through a 1.5" line and trying to maintain 100psi nozzle pressure but 3 or 4
gpm through a 3/4" line isn't going to create enough friction to worry about.
The simplest solution is to raise the tank, maybe put it on the roof of your place, if your structure will support the weight. If that is not possible
then a pump of some sort is going to be necessary. Check on ebay, lots of pumps available there. As soulpatch said, parking your vehicle next to the
house and useing its battery would be pretty simple.
good luck
Larry
PS The first rig I was on was a Ward LaFrance.
[Edited on 3-8-2012 by larryC]
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msteve1014
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Lots of people have a small tank on the roof to gain head pressure, and a larger tank on the ground to hold most of the water. You still need a pump
to get it up there, but maybe only once a week, or so.
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David K
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| Quote: | Originally posted by msteve1014
Lots of people have a small tank on the roof to gain head pressure, and a larger tank on the ground to hold most of the water. You still need a pump
to get it up there, but maybe only once a week, or so. |
Best idea yet! Just plug in the pump once a week to fill 'er up!
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David K
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Frank, your Way cheap link doesn't do it.
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KaceyJ
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After looking at Diana's orchard pics, it came to mind you might benefit from constructing a standpipe near your hut.
Your shortcomings in pressure might be able to be balanced by an increase in volume.
kc
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Alan
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As a basic rule of thumb you will only gain about 1/2 psi for each foot of elevation. I would think a simple inline pump would be much more cost
effective than building a tower.
In Memory of E-57
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David K
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Alan
As a basic rule of thumb you will only gain about 1/2 psi for each foot of elevation. I would think a simple inline pump would be much more cost
effective than building a tower. |
Yes, as mentioned above the figure is 0.433 psi per foot. But she has no power at the site for a pump... just a car battery a hundred feet away (or
something like that)... Gravity is free.
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volcano
Nomad
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Registered: 3-5-2007
Location: Cave Junction, Oregon and Boca Del Salado area, Ea
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been using the sun shower bag for 5 years now...
little by little we work on the cabin..
here is another thought as well.... it seemed that one of the faucets had way worse pressure than the others....it could be the make and model.....?
does any one ever remove screens and aerators for better flow?
o.k. won't bother raising with blocks
and regarding 12v vs...the cabin was wired for 110...in my absence.... but the most advice I'm getting is for 12 v
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Mulegena
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I'm reading this Thread carefully, guys
Can I pick your brains, too, please?
We're building a little house right now-- just finished clearing the land and digging the foundation (yeay!).
Its a small 2-story, and I think we'll put one bathroom on top of the other and it'll be a gravity-flow situation from a rooftop tank. Here's a couple
questions:
* which bathroom should the shower be in, top or bottom floor? (the bedroom's on the top floor, so I thought the shower would be on the same, but am
concerned the gravity-flow pressure might be inefficient up there).
* the water will be routed through an on-demand hot water heater. where should that be placed to maximize psi?
* how high should the roof pitch be? obviously pitched would be better but we were thinking of doing a flat, pueblo-style roof too. would that make
much a difference?
* what else am i not factoring in?
"Raise your words, not your voice. It's rain that grows flowers, not thunder." ~Rumi
"It's the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." ~ Aristotle
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vandenberg
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Mulegena
the water will be routed through an on-demand hot water heater. where should that be placed to maximize psi?
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Better make sure there's enough pressure, otherwise that heater won't work right.
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bajaguy
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Water Heater
| Quote: | Originally posted by vandenberg
| Quote: | Originally posted by Mulegena
the water will be routed through an on-demand hot water heater. where should that be placed to maximize psi?
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Better make sure there's enough pressure, otherwise that heater won't work right. |
At least a 3/4" water supply line to the heater with 60lbs of pressure (ideal) and at least a 3/4" gas supply line to the heater.
Any less than 40lbs of pressure and you will have problems with the heater
Pump should go as close to the heater as possible.
[Edited on 3-9-2012 by bajaguy]
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Alan
Super Nomad
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Registered: 4-6-2005
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Mulegena
Can I pick your brains, too, please?
We're building a little house right now-- just finished clearing the land and digging the foundation (yeay!).
Its a small 2-story, and I think we'll put one bathroom on top of the other and it'll be a gravity-flow situation from a rooftop tank. Here's a couple
questions:
* which bathroom should the shower be in, top or bottom floor? (the bedroom's on the top floor, so I thought the shower would be on the same, but am
concerned the gravity-flow pressure might be inefficient up there).
* the water will be routed through an on-demand hot water heater. where should that be placed to maximize psi?
* how high should the roof pitch be? obviously pitched would be better but we were thinking of doing a flat, pueblo-style roof too. would that make
much a difference?
* what else am i not factoring in? |
You don't say where you are building but by your screen name I will make
a wild guess and assume somewhere in BCS. Unless you are on a mountaintop somewhere and need to address snow loads I would think that a flat roof
would work fine. Just don't make it perfectly flat and level as all building materials will settle some over time and you don't want a pool of
standing water that can't drain off. This applies to patios as well. Slope everything just enough that water will flow AWAY from your house. My
patio in La Paz was built perfectly level and on the few times each year that we get significant rain the water runs in under the door which we try to
stop with rolled beach towels 
In Memory of E-57
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mtgoat666
Select Nomad
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Location: San Diego
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Yes, as mentioned above the figure is 0.433 psi per foot. But she has no power at the site for a pump... just a car battery a hundred feet away (or
something like that)... Gravity is free. |
gravity is not free in this case. energy has to be expended to get water up into elevated tank. if you ignore the effort to lift the water up in
first place, then you can say the "gravity is free."
just sayin....
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