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BajaBlanca
Select Nomad
Posts: 13197
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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hard to believe it is the same house ! looking really nice.
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David K
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Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Very nice Juan y Shari! Looks like a palace!
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boe4fun
Super Nomad
Posts: 1040
Registered: 1-22-2006
Location: Margaritaville
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Mood: Circling the drain........
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Great work you two, can't wait to get back.
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shari
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Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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I just snapped this photo of our progress to date...that's alot of rock eh! I remember I thought Juan was crazy when he said he wanted a rock wall all
around the place!
thanks for the suggestions everyone...I hope someone can bring down some of that magic cement sealer to spray on...that chocolate colour is not the
final colour...it's an undercoat. The walls will be sort of the same as the big sign...goldy...I think....or shades of that...I think I will photoshop
some colours onto the railing to see what it might look like finished....but I like the idea of just sealing it. Paint just flakes off in the salt air
it seems.
[Edited on 6-13-2012 by shari]
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shari
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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eli...I googled litacrome and nothing came up?
Paul...when are you coming down...we are gonna need some concrete sealer!
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motoged
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6481
Registered: 7-31-2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Mood: Gettin' Better
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Shari and Juan,
Your hard work looks beautiful...congratulations ....y mas suerte
Don't believe everything you think....
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Eli
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Posts: 1471
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: L.B. Baja Sur
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Mood: Some times Observing, sometimes Oblivious.
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I screwed up the spelling but edited above. Try googling Scofield Lithochrome Chemstain. I just did and it worked for me.
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6346
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
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Mood: TEQUILA!
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That's a helluva lot of work since I was there three weeks ago!
p.s. let me know when someone is coming down your way via Los Angeles or Orange County.
I have a surprise package for Juan. It will fit in a 12"X12" box.
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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durrelllrobert
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7393
Registered: 11-22-2007
Location: Punta Banda BC
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Mood: thriving in Baja
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faux marble paint!
I'm sure you can find a pottery artist down there that could apply a very classy faux marble finish to the ballisters and railing.
Bob Durrell
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15939
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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but that is another type of paint. and then after it fades/peels she'd have to get the guy back.
just seal it.
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comitan
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4177
Registered: 3-27-2004
Location: La Paz
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Mood: mellow
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Shari
The Mexican way, cement, cement powder color, and pegacreto mix with water paint it on.
Strive For The Ideal, But Deal With What\'s Real.
Every day is a new day, better than the day before.(from some song)
Lord, Keep your arm around my shoulder and your hand over my mouth.
“The sincere pursuit of truth requires you to entertain the possibility that everything you believe to be true may in fact be false”
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Pescador
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Posts: 3587
Registered: 10-17-2002
Location: Baja California Sur
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I think the best sealer is the 5 X 1 that comes from Comex. Put about two to three coats on with a stout brush. Then You can paint it as any other
block. For the area that serves as a handrail, just make sure the paint is Gloss and it will take the hand traffic with only an occasional repaint.
I have 5 or 6 years on some of mine and it looks like new.
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shari
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Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Pescador...would it be possible to just seal it with that and not paint it? I like the Comex idea as it is available in Vizcaino...but painting all
those vertical things would take forever...wonder about spraying it on?
Udo...yes, we really want to get these rooms ready for the fall....the downstairs room is now tiled, the bar in and bathroom nearly done...we're on a
roll...thanks to abalone!
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schwlind
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Registered: 8-30-2008
Location: Daytona Beach, FL/San Antonio Del Mar (Colonet)
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Shari,
I assume you used some type of form for the ballisters and if so, where did you find them?
Thanks,
Linda
Linda
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Mulegena
Super Nomad
Posts: 2412
Registered: 11-7-2006
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Pescador, would that Comex Sealer repel the salt in the air and earth that plagues concrete here in Baja?
Would it also act as a one-coat primer or would it simply seal new concrete and plaster walls in readiness for primer and paint?
"Raise your words, not your voice. It's rain that grows flowers, not thunder." ~Rumi
"It's the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." ~ Aristotle
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Puckdrop
Nomad
Posts: 147
Registered: 2-16-2011
Location: Vancouver BC / Loreto, BCS
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Mood: Liven the dream baby !
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Sherri, hate to be the barer of bad news, but I see a major fault with your beautiful concrete railing. Izaak is going to keep grama very busy runing
up and down those stairs when he keeps shooting the puck through those wickets 
Very nice job on the reno's.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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too funny Puckdriop....I read your first sentance with utter dread...then got to laugh. Izaak LOVES the up-down thing allright and you will see we put
the ballisters...thanks for the right word Linda...very close together so that little rascal cant do a dive into the blowhole!
LInda...Juan bought them in Vizcaino where a guy makes them if you want his number...we dont have the mold.
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gnukid
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4411
Registered: 7-2-2006
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Pescador
I think the best sealer is the 5 X 1 that comes from Comex. Put about two to three coats on with a stout brush. Then You can paint it as any other
block. For the area that serves as a handrail, just make sure the paint is Gloss and it will take the hand traffic with only an occasional repaint.
I have 5 or 6 years on some of mine and it looks like new. |
This comex sealer makes a skin on the cement, which is good except if it cracks then it peels huge sections. This is why I would discourage this type
of comex seal and paint so close to the ocean unless you want to repaint it every year.
A cement stain and sealer by itself, not the comex 5x1, would be far less maintenance and looks better. You can do this once and forget about it or
redo it on occasion.
You need a good quality cement sealer. They tend to cost about 1000 pesos for a 3-5 gallon bucket. Some are shiny and some are not. The shiny type
will dull since its being exposed to salt and mist constantly.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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muchas gracias gnukid...this is exactly the kind of input I was hoping for here...it is so labour intensive to seal all these ballisters, I want to
try to do the right thing from the get-go! keep the ideas coming all...keeping in mind extreme exposure to salt from the blowhole and winds.
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Mulegena
Super Nomad
Posts: 2412
Registered: 11-7-2006
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Today's chemistry lesson, Class...
Lifted from Wikipedia, Concrete Sealers
more than you wanted to know, but need to know anyway, imo.
Hint, seems Shari's balusters need a penetrating sealant, read on...:
"Concrete sealers are applied to concrete to protect it from corrosion. They either block the pores in the concrete to reduce absorption of water and
salts or form an impermeable layer which prevents such materials from passing.[1]
Extensive research from concrete authorities in North America – American Concrete Institute, Portland Cement Association, National Ready Mix Concrete
Association - confirm that almost all damage to concrete is attributable to moisture intrusion: alkali-silica reaction (ASR), chemical intrusion,
freeze/thaw, and corrosion of reinforcements.
There are two main sealer categories: topical sealers (film-forming) and penetrating sealers (reactive).
Penetrating sealers should be properly matched with substrate porosity in order to penetrate the surface, clot, and form a barrier. Penetrating
sealers generally do not significantly modify substrate appearance. They are chemically reactive and bond with minerals in cement reducing the amount
of free silica available for ASR and reduce moisture required to induce ASR. As well as blocking surface moisture they block subterranean moisture and
can reduce efflorescence. Lastly, penetrating sealers can harden and increase the density of concrete, increasing its strength as measured in pounds
per square inch (PSI). The Lifespan of these sealers can be nearly permanent.[2]
Today, five major compounds are commonly used in concrete sealers:
Acrylic resins form a topical thin film membrane. Acrylics are affordable and generally simple to apply. They are well known to increase perceived
visual enhancement and generally provide good UV protection for colored substrates. They can make substrates slick when wet, sometimes requiring the
addition of anti-skid materials. Despite being the softest and least lasting of the major sealer categories, price and convenience make acrylics a
very popular choice for residential applications such as stamped concrete and exposed aggregate.
Epoxy. Because epoxy coatings are so strong and durable they trap moisture under the service which will cause the epoxy to bubble and crack. The water
it is trapping on the other side wants to come in, and eventually it will! Epoxy sealers are also not permeable to water vapor.[3]
Silicates. Silicates are deep penetrating sealers capillary that stop the wicking process in concrete. The silicate reacts with the free lime in
concrete and forms and expanded crystalline structure beneath the surface. These crystals fill the pores of the concrete and prevents the penetration
of radon and moisture infiltration by capillary action. The barrier stops water and radon.[4]
Silane/Siloxane. Silane/siloxane sealers are clear water-based, low VOC, ready-to-use, breathable penetrating siloxane/silane water repellent for
dense concrete and masonry surfaces – brick, cast concrete and stucco. Silane/siloxane sealers disintegrate quickly from traffic and UV-rays, darken
the sealed service and can turn yellow, aren’t paintable and can be very slippery when wet.[5]
Polyester Sealers. Polyester sealers are low viscosity, rapid curing, penetrating sealers that anchor lacquers, urethanes, polyesters, vinyl esters
and most epoxies to a variety of substrates. Polyester sealers are strong and effective against water but they do not completely stop the intrusion of
vapors and gases.[6]
Several of the above listed sealers can be used in combination. Silanes, silicates and siliconates, which must be applied directly to the substrate,
can be very receptive to topical coatings and can be used first in a multi-component system, followed by acrylics or epoxy/urethane systems. Silicates
can also be applied as a second step with siliconates as the smaller molecules can provide additional pore closure. Siloxanes and silicones are too
topical in nature to be reliably used in conjunction with topical coatings."
"Raise your words, not your voice. It's rain that grows flowers, not thunder." ~Rumi
"It's the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." ~ Aristotle
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