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gsbotanico
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I have a mango tree that I planted from seed more than 30 years ago. It's about 15 feet tall. I live within several hundred yards of the ocean.
Mango trees love heat and lots of it. My location is really too cool. I lived in West Africa for two years and mango trees were planted as street
trees. It was stinkin' hot and the trees loved it.
I get a big fruit set each year, so much that I thin the fruit out. Except when the spring and summer are very warm I only get apricot sized fruit,
but I've had big ones. The seed was from a big red Mexican mango. The trees tolerate a lot of drought. In Africa the trees bloomed and fruited
before the rainy season started. I would experiment with cutting back on watering in the spring and early summer to stress the tree a little. And
don't over fertilize. This makes the tree produce more foliage.
A grafted tree should be a variety that fruits well in cooler climates. Your photos look like the tree has excellent growth. Many plants flower and
fruit bettered when stressed. I rarely irrigate my tree until the fruit is starting to size up.
[Edited on 3-1-2016 by gsbotanico]
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woody with a view
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good info!
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gsbotanico
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I didn't mention that mango trees self pollinate. I suspect that cool weather will cause pollination to fail. I'm a botanist and horticulturalist,
but I'm just guessing from experience. It helps if the tree is planted in a nice sunny location and get full sun all day.
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woody with a view
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Tree is against a fence but it in sun all day. I'm thinking this is the year!
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mtgoat666
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The climate is warming, at an increasing rate, so should tree bear fruit one of these years, probably sooner than later, eh?
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woody with a view
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and summer is coming, also!
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Bugman
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I live in Escondido and have many mango trees in my yard. Fruiting can be problematic sometimes but it can depend on many things. Some species bear
only every other year. If grown from seed the trees sometimes will flower for a few years before finally setting fruit. Cold and rain can sometimes
mess with the flowers but the tree will usually just turn around and sprout a few more when the weather warms again. There are many varieties and
some just fruit better than others. If you bought it locally in one of or nurseries then it most likely is a variety called manila but once in a
while they may offer others. It is also better to let your mango tree get some size on it before letting it have fruit as they put all their energy
into the fruit and growth will suffer. Your tree seems big enough that you should be able to let it keep several fruit should it set this year but
the more it has the smaller the resulting fruit will be. Best of luck!
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woody with a view
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manila sounds about right. i remove 60% of my peaches to allow the remaining to grow bigger. i'l do the same if mango fruits.
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woody with a view
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I'm not getting my hopes up, yet. Sprinkled a bunch of good organic fertilizer about a month ago, watered once and let nature do its thing.
  
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Bajaboy
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I've read if you invite your amigos over and drink good beer near the tree, your luck will improve
I do have that Mexican contraband from Blanca to deliver.
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woody with a view
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I'll call ya
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MitchMan
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I have a mature mango tree in my back yard in La Paz. It almost died two years ago because it wasn't getting enough water. It is now getting water
every other day and is coming back to life. It didn't set any fruit last year because of trauma of not getting enough water as the tree sets on the
highest point in the yard and the little bit of rain that has fallen in the last three years usually runs away from the tree. But, this year, it is
flowering like never before.
Early last year, I dug a trench and berm at the drip line. Then, in that berm, I put some ammonium sulfate, Vigaro 17-17-17, compost, bone meal and
Epsom salt, then topped it with with palm leaves to keep the moisture in. The irrigation is directed into that berm.
I can tell the nitrogen is kicking in about now.
[Edited on 4-2-2016 by MitchMan]
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David K
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PAUL TOMPSON CRFG
Tropical trees like heat, humidity (air water), and ground water. Mangos have been growing in San Diego County since the 1940s or so. Paul Tompson,
founder of the California Rare Fruit Growers found an ideal site in Vista, CA (off Foothill/ Warmlands) he believed could grow mangos.
Here is the data on Mango growing in California: http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/mango.html
Here is a little about Paul's mango project (note, the last name is misspelled, it has no h):
Several local sources credit Thompson with bringing mangoes to the attention of North County growers in 1963. Thompson's legendary Edgehill Grove
in Vista contained several mango trees when he bought it several decades ago.
"The previous owner had mango trees of his own, probably planted at the turn of the century. This was proof positive that mangoes would grow in the
area," said Thompson, a founder of the California Rare Fruit Growers Inc. "At that time, I was in the nursery business. I brought in every mango
variety I could lay my hands on from the tropics and from everywhere else."
He increased his mango tree collection to 70 varieties. "They estimate there are over 1,000 varieties of mangoes in India alone," Thompson said. "I
would think there are more mangoes eaten around the world than apples."
Andrea Peterson of Peterson and Pio Quality Produce is one of the growers who credits Thompson with doing the basic research for the suitability of
mangoes in Southern California.
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gsbotanico
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Quote: Originally posted by MitchMan  | I have a mature mango tree in my back yard in La Paz. It almost died two years ago because it wasn't getting enough water. It is now getting water
every other day and is coming back to life. It didn't set any fruit last year because of trauma of not getting enough water as the tree sets on the
highest point in the yard and the little bit of rain that has fallen in the last three years usually runs away from the tree. But, this year, it is
flowering like never before.
Early last year, I dug a trench and berm at the drip line. Then, in that berm, I put some ammonium sulfate, Vigaro 17-17-17, compost, bone meal and
Epsom salt, then topped it with with palm leaves to keep the moisture in. The irrigation is directed into that berm.
I can tell the nitrogen is kicking in about now.
[Edited on 4-2-2016 by MitchMan] |
It sounds like you've given the tree a big boost of fertilizer to get it growing well again. For the long term I have some suggestions. Most plants
want nitrogen and potassium in equal amounts. The only potassium I see is in the Vigaro 17-17-17. The three numbers are percentages of
nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium respectively. The ammonium sulfate adds additional nitrogen and unbalances the potassium.
The 17% phosphorus is high if the Vigaro is applied more that once or twice in a year. Plants need less phosphorus, and phosphorus can accumulate in
the soil if applied too often and cause deficiencies in micro-nutrients, especially iron, copper, zinc, and manganese. Some plants, like citrus, are
very sensitive to these deficiencies.
I don't see any calcium in the list, although the Vigaro 17-17-17 may have some in its formula. The label will say. Plants need calcium, which
should be kept in balance with potassium and magnesium. Gypsum (calcium sulfate) is a good source and can be applied one or twice a years. Called
"yeso" in Spanish, if you are looking for it. It's cheap and useful to improve the texture of any soil that clumps and goes very hard when it dries.
Epsom salts are magnesium sulfate, so are beneficial. Sulfates, instead of nitrates, are also beneficial as a source of sulfur, which helps to
maintain an acidic pH in the soil. This is useful if the irrigation water is alkaline. Alkalinity is a huge problem in northern Baja, and commercial
growers often have to inject acid into the irrigation water to keep the soil from becoming too alkaline. A pH of 7 is neutral, and most plants grow
best in slightly acidic soils of pH 6.0 - 6.5. Alkalinity is a problem in low rainfall areas. The opposite is true in high rainfall areas. Not sure
how La Paz fits into all of this.
My apologies if all this information is too geeky. I hope at least some of it is helpful. One final point. Organic material, compost or palm
fronds, is always beneficial. The one exception is eucalyptus compost, which can be toxic to some plants. Ever notice that many eucalyptus species
don't have much growing under them?
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woody with a view
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Posts: 15939
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I'm not counting my Mangos before they hatch but I have a good feeling about the whole thing. There is a 20' tree in the hood I noticed that had 1000
like my small ones with a few egg sized so it must be a good year. I've got about 20 others like the smallest one shown here.
[Edited on 5-15-2016 by woody with a view]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64723
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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| Quote: Originally posted by gsbotanico | | Quote: Originally posted by MitchMan | I have a mature mango tree in my back yard in La Paz. It almost died two years ago because it wasn't getting enough water. It is now getting water
every other day and is coming back to life. It didn't set any fruit last year because of trauma of not getting enough water as the tree sets on the
highest point in the yard and the little bit of rain that has fallen in the last three years usually runs away from the tree. But, this year, it is
flowering like never before.
Early last year, I dug a trench and berm at the drip line. Then, in that berm, I put some ammonium sulfate, Vigaro 17-17-17, compost, bone meal and
Epsom salt, then topped it with with palm leaves to keep the moisture in. The irrigation is directed into that berm.
I can tell the nitrogen is kicking in about now.
[Edited on 4-2-2016 by MitchMan] |
It sounds like you've given the tree a big boost of fertilizer to get it growing well again. For the long term I have some suggestions. Most plants
want nitrogen and potassium in equal amounts. The only potassium I see is in the Vigaro 17-17-17. The three numbers are percentages of
nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium respectively. The ammonium sulfate adds additional nitrogen and unbalances the potassium.
The 17% phosphorus is high if the Vigaro is applied more that once or twice in a year. Plants need less phosphorus, and phosphorus can accumulate in
the soil if applied too often and cause deficiencies in micro-nutrients, especially iron, copper, zinc, and manganese. Some plants, like citrus, are
very sensitive to these deficiencies.
I don't see any calcium in the list, although the Vigaro 17-17-17 may have some in its formula. The label will say. Plants need calcium, which
should be kept in balance with potassium and magnesium. Gypsum (calcium sulfate) is a good source and can be applied one or twice a years. Called
"yeso" in Spanish, if you are looking for it. It's cheap and useful to improve the texture of any soil that clumps and goes very hard when it dries.
Epsom salts are magnesium sulfate, so are beneficial. Sulfates, instead of nitrates, are also beneficial as a source of sulfur, which helps to
maintain an acidic pH in the soil. This is useful if the irrigation water is alkaline. Alkalinity is a huge problem in northern Baja, and commercial
growers often have to inject acid into the irrigation water to keep the soil from becoming too alkaline. A pH of 7 is neutral, and most plants grow
best in slightly acidic soils of pH 6.0 - 6.5. Alkalinity is a problem in low rainfall areas. The opposite is true in high rainfall areas. Not sure
how La Paz fits into all of this.
My apologies if all this information is too geeky. I hope at least some of it is helpful. One final point. Organic material, compost or palm
fronds, is always beneficial. The one exception is eucalyptus compost, which can be toxic to some plants. Ever notice that many eucalyptus species
don't have much growing under them? |
As both an irrigation professional and a past member of the California Rare Fruit Growers, I find your post most exceptional and thank you for it!
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Jack Swords
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Location: Nipomo, CA/La Paz, BCS
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To be completely fair, Paul Tompson was a cofounder of the CRFG with John Riley. John was located in N CA while Paul was in the S CA. CRFG is alive
and well and this year the SLO CRFG is hosting the Festival of Fruit in August.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64723
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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| Quote: Originally posted by Jack Swords | | To be completely fair, Paul Tompson was a cofounder of the CRFG with John Riley. John was located in N CA while Paul was in the S CA. CRFG is alive
and well and this year the SLO CRFG is hosting the Festival of Fruit in August. |
I had the pleasure to meet and do business with Paul Thomson (no p) in Vista, CA at the irrigation store I worked at (1986-1994). I also wrote to and
obtain seeds from John Riley... Both very devoted to the idea that we can grow more than oranges and apples in California!
My personal contributions to CRFG were in the 1980s when I wrote articles about varieties of and growing bananas in Southern California. I had over 40
varieties growing at one time, along with guavas, passionfruit, cherimoyas, sugarcane and other fruit that was rare for California (at the time)! A
list of past articles from CRFG publications on bananas:
BANANA
A Survey of Major Banana Cultivars. By K. Shepherd. 1988 J, pp 33-38 Abyssinian Banana (M. ensete); Rajapuri (M. nana); M. balbisiana; Etc.. By John
C. Oberlin. 1976 #1, p 9 All About Bananas. By William F. Whitman. 1983 YB, pp 77-82 Banana Blossoms: a Gourmet's Delight. By Robert E. Bond. 1988 J,
pp 45-46 Banana Cultivars and Their Characteristics. By H. Dale Sato. 1988 J,pp 21-23 Banana Notes for Southern California. By Brian Lievens. 1984 #3,
pp 14-15 Banana Stains. By Dorothy N. Runde. 1986 #4, p 24 Banana Varieties and Synonyms. By David Kier. 1988 J, p 17 Bananas. By
Brian Lievens. 1988 J, pp 9-13 Bananas in Ventura County, Calif. By Richard E. Watts. 1986 #1, pp 5-6 Bananas in Your Backyard. By Jim Neitzel. 1980
#4, p 25 Bananas. By Peggy Winter. 1981 #4, pp 12-14 Bits & Pieces. By Peggy Winter. 1987 #1, pp 25-26 Bits & Pieces: Banana Stains. By Peggy
Winter. 1986 #3, pp 20-21 Book Reviews: Food; Bananas; Cooking with Exotic Fruits and Vegetables. Reviewed by Eph Konigsberg. 1988 #1, pp 23-24
Chemical Weed Control in Banana. By C. L. Chia and R. K. Nishimoto. 1988 J, pp 28-32 Culture of Rare Fruits in the San Francisco Bay Area. By J.
Garrin Fullington. 1974 #4, pp 3-6, Enano gigante Bananas. By David Guggenheim. 1984 #4, p 4 Ensete: the Abyssinian Banana. By William Drysdale. 1988
J, pp 18-19 From Where the Banana. By Ron Kadish. 1988 #4, pp 48-50 Fruits Recommended by Specialists. 1989 YB, pp 34-35 Gleanings: Bananas; Need for
Proven Varieties; Promising Hawaiian Types. By Jim Neitzel. 1984 #3, pp 28-29 Growing Bananas in the Hollywood Hills. By Steven Spangler. 1975 #4, pp
11-12 Growing the Cavendish Banana. By Brian Lievens. 1982 YB, pp 59-62 How to Grow a Banana Tree. By David Kier. 1986 #3, pp 18-19
How to Grow Better Bananas. By Edwin Gardner. 1971 #3, p 8 In Search of the Banana of Domingo. By Steven Spangler. 1977 #4, pp 8-9 Keeping California
Clean. By Peggy Winter. 1982 #2, p 27 New Bananas from Hawaii. By Peggy Winter. 1983 #3, p 11 News from the Hills. By David Silber. 1988 #4, pp 5-7
Notes From a Grower/experimenter. By David Silber. 1987 #3, pp 20-21 Notes from John Townsend, Kauai Hawaii. By John Townsend. 1982 #2, pp 10-12
Orinoco: the Most Reliable Banana Cultivar. By Louis Lopyan. 1988 J, pp 19-20 Ornamental Bananas. By William Drysdale. 1988 J, pp 24-26 Planting
Bananas. By Peggy Winter. 1982 #4, p 2 Principal Banana Varieties and Synonyms. By David Kier. 1985 #4, p 29 Questions and Answers.
By Richard D. Tkachuck. 1985 #2, pp 10-11; 1986 #1, p 32 Remembered Fruits of the Philippines. By John McIntyre Jr.. 1976 YB, p 55 The Last Banana
Leaf. By Eph Konigsberg. 1987 #4, p 19 The Origin of Banana Varieties. By R. E. Coronel and F. N. Rivera. 1983 YB, pp 73-76 The Year of the Banana. By
Walter V. Jerris. 1988 J, pp 1-8 Why You Can't Grow Bananas in So. Calif. By Eph Konigsberg. 1987 #3, pp 12-14
Here is the CRFG founders story: http://www.crfg.org/founders.html
[Edited on 5-15-2016 by David K]
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gsbotanico
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Posts: 209
Registered: 7-28-2015
Location: Cardiff by the Sea, CA
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| Quote: Originally posted by David K | | Quote: Originally posted by gsbotanico |
It sounds like you've given the tree a big boost of fertilizer to get it growing well again. For the long term I have some suggestions. Most plants
want nitrogen and potassium in equal amounts. The only potassium I see is in the Vigaro 17-17-17. The three numbers are percentages of
nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium respectively. The ammonium sulfate adds additional nitrogen and unbalances the potassium.
The 17% phosphorus is high if the Vigaro is applied more that once or twice in a year. Plants need less phosphorus, and phosphorus can accumulate in
the soil if applied too often and cause deficiencies in micro-nutrients, especially iron, copper, zinc, and manganese. Some plants, like citrus, are
very sensitive to these deficiencies.
I don't see any calcium in the list, although the Vigaro 17-17-17 may have some in its formula. The label will say. Plants need calcium, which
should be kept in balance with potassium and magnesium. Gypsum (calcium sulfate) is a good source and can be applied one or twice a years. Called
"yeso" in Spanish, if you are looking for it. It's cheap and useful to improve the texture of any soil that clumps and goes very hard when it dries.
Epsom salts are magnesium sulfate, so are beneficial. Sulfates, instead of nitrates, are also beneficial as a source of sulfur, which helps to
maintain an acidic pH in the soil. This is useful if the irrigation water is alkaline. Alkalinity is a huge problem in northern Baja, and commercial
growers often have to inject acid into the irrigation water to keep the soil from becoming too alkaline. A pH of 7 is neutral, and most plants grow
best in slightly acidic soils of pH 6.0 - 6.5. Alkalinity is a problem in low rainfall areas. The opposite is true in high rainfall areas. Not sure
how La Paz fits into all of this.
My apologies if all this information is too geeky. I hope at least some of it is helpful. One final point. Organic material, compost or palm
fronds, is always beneficial. The one exception is eucalyptus compost, which can be toxic to some plants. Ever notice that many eucalyptus species
don't have much growing under them? |
As both an irrigation professional and a past member of the California Rare Fruit Growers, I find your post most exceptional and thank you for it!
|
You're welcome. I'm a professional too. I've worked a long time in Mexico and traveled a lot in mainland Mexico. I met a couple who were former Peace
Corps volunteers (I'm one too) and who bought property in Ocosingo, Chiapas on the road between Palenque and San Cristóbal de las Casas. They were
growing macadamias, birds of paradise flowers, and organic coffee. They also had "cabañas" (really jungle huts) for guests. I freely helped them via
fax with nutritional problems with the macadamias. Unfortunately they were run out by rebel Zapatistas and lost their land about a year after I met
them. Too bad because they employed local people and had started a good ecotourism business. It was called Rancho Esmeralda. It's closure saddened me.
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Jack Swords
Super Nomad
Posts: 1095
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: Nipomo, CA/La Paz, BCS
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Shameless plug:
http://www.crfg.org/index.html
http://festivaloffruit.org/
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