Originally posted by watizname
I understand the the guys that "Go Long" to get their waves wanting to keep the competition to a minimum. There really aren't enough to go around. If
you think there are, go to Malibu or Rincon on a day when the swell is up. Sharing is good, getting some alone is better. Besides, it's always cool
to be able to tell your friends "Wow man, you missed it"
Right on that, and everything is relative. I surf Rincon, take off with 10 surfers taking off left/right of me. We all catch the wave and maybe
a foot between boards, no way to kick out. Most are pi$$ed. Don't surf there anymore.
OK here's one. Line starts at 5am for the gate opening at 6am at SanO on a Summer Saturday. By 10am, there's a 2-3 hour wait to get in and a
very long line.
Picture 10 Mexicans on a wave at Aquapulquito, Old Mans BCS on a wave we all catch and everyone is laughing and it's fun. Don't know why but I'm
laughing too.
It's fun to rip alone but to me as much fun riding 2 on a wave both on the nose scooting 200 yards. That was Pedrito last week with a local. We
hooted much of the ride. Maybe that was 100 yards. He said 200.
US Marines: providing enemies of America an opportunity to die for their country since 1775.
What I say before any important decision.
F*ck it.
...because when it's good, it is soooooo good.
If you just scored the most insanely beautiful woman/man of your life, would you be broadcasting her/his phone number to the world?
I didn't think so...
Just a local surfing difference. I have taken photos of two or three local surfers sharing the same wave while laughing and pushing off each other.
Many of them just are not so territorial and instead of lining up, they all jump on the wave.
That's interesting Diana- I didn't realize this might seem like a selfish or territorial issue.
I should not have used the word territorial as it does have too many negative connotations---just a different way of looking at things would have been
better. Sorry for that.
While most of surfers from the US that I know, really enjoy finding that lonely wave and being there totally alone, or with only a couple of
friends. These guys love to all head out to the same surf spot in groups -- the more the merrier. I don't want to say it is a cultural difference as
I believe it is more of an individual thing. I know we like to find places with absolute solitude and others prefer traveling in groups.
But here are a couple of pix of what I was talking about and I questioned it because while we don't surf, we watch the surfers in IB a lot and we have
never seen them surfing like this and have been told by other US surfers that this is not OK to them.
Just a different way of looking at things. A young lady we met the other day from Ensenada told us that surfing there is more like it is in the US
and less like it is here.
Again, I apologize for using the word territorial and it sounded like I might be casting negative aspersions on some surfers and that was not the
intention. Beyond the safety issue, I fully understand the desire for solitude in many situations.
Originally posted by BFS
Pedrito fun today Lee, what board are you on?
This a.m. looked squirrelly. Maybe tomorrow. Usually out about 9am. Yell my name, South end lineup.
10' Robert August, Mark Martinson model, Hawaiian floral print nose.
I ride enough solo waves that party waves (more than 1) are fine with me. If someone is trying to hop on a wave further down from me, I encourage
them to hurry and paddle harder.
The way I remember surfing with friends/family in the 60s at 'Nofre.
US Marines: providing enemies of America an opportunity to die for their country since 1775.
What I say before any important decision.
F*ck it.
Not been surfing as long as Lee but almost. Two kinds of spots in Baja, easy ones to get to, and harder ones to get to. There will be fewer people
at the harder ones. There are no secrets, surfers can never resist letting their surfing friends know all about how they scored. Hey Woody, just
missed meeting you. We saw you leaving on the paved road. I was with George and a friend who had just paid their taxes in Punta Prieta. It picked up
on Wednesday. The islands point was going off.
Given the crazy crowding of So Cal, it is easy to understand why those who will EARN an empty spot in Baja would defend it somewhat. I want to shout
out how grateful that I am for my addiction, here in rural California. Wednesday at the ski park, I stopped with two buddies to puff over our twin
tips, and nowhere on the mountain was there another human being in sight. Our own personal ski area. A $99. seasons ticket and a 12 mile drive.
Sheeeeeeesh. Being poor ain't so bad!
Undoubtedly, there are people who cannot afford to give the anchor of sanity even the slightest tug. Sam Harris
"The situation is far too dire for pessimism."
Bill Kauth
Carl Sagan said, "We are a way for the cosmos to know itself."
Originally posted by Dewey
Not been surfing as long as Lee but almost. Two kinds of spots in Baja, easy ones to get to, and harder ones to get to. There will be fewer people
at the harder ones. There are no secrets, surfers can never resist letting their surfing friends know all about how they scored. Hey Woody, just
missed meeting you. We saw you leaving on the paved road. I was with George and a friend who had just paid their taxes in Punta Prieta. It picked up
on Wednesday. The islands point was going off.
"If it were lush and rich, one could understand the pull, but it is fierce and hostile and sullen.
The stone mountains pile up to the sky and there is little fresh water. But we know we must go back
if we live, and we don't know why." - Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
"People don't care how much you know, until they know how much you care." - Theodore Roosevelt
"You can easily judge the character of others by how they treat those who they think can do nothing for them or to them." - Malcolm Forbes
"Let others lead small lives, but not you. Let others argue over small things, but not you. Let others
cry over small hurts, but not you. Let others leave their future in someone else's hands, but not you." - Jim Rohn
"The best way to get the right answer on the internet is not to ask a question; it's to post the wrong answer." - Cunningham's Law
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