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Author: Subject: New railings on our new 2nd story
acadist
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[*] posted on 6-14-2012 at 04:05 PM


Looks great! In your enviroment any paint/sealer will be more of a maintenance item. Plan on every year or two putting on a new coat. Just my 2 cents...from someone who sells paint. Little far but there is a Sherwin-Williams in Loreto. For solid color make sure you get concrete stain thin first coat to absorb into the concrete and second coat to provide protection and even color. For the natural look use a concrete sealer, pretty easy to apply with a bug type sprayer. Your biggest issue in making it last is making sure it is very clean when you paint, salt will not be your friend.



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[*] posted on 6-14-2012 at 06:36 PM
ReBar


Quote:
Originally posted by shari
prolly right woodman!

the stairs were such a challenge...my eternal thanks to D for hangin in there and getting them right!!!!! gracias amigo




You should have left that ReBar sticking up, Shari. To give it that authentic look.:lol:
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[*] posted on 6-14-2012 at 07:22 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by shari
here is a photo of what the house looked like when we first started building onto it....how time flies eh!



Wow, you will always feel a sense of accomplishment when you look at your beautiful home. You guys have manifested your dream. I am in awe!! Just beautiful!

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[*] posted on 6-14-2012 at 07:56 PM


OK sis you need some advice from a concrete expert. That's me, your bro. First, "cement" in your context is a white powdery substance that comes in 94# bags and is one of the three ingredients that makes up concrete (the other two are aggregate (rocks and/or sand) and water). Your beautiful rails are CONCRETE, not cement. Never forget that :). Don't waste your time and money on coatings on concrete in a coastal environment. The best thing that you can do to concrete after it hydrates (sets up or hardens) is to keep it permanently under water, and that includes salt water. Think bridge foundations. So from a durability standpoint coatings are of no value on concrete, however they may be aesthetically pleasing, your choice. But don't ever let anybody tell you that you need to smear anything on concrete to make it more durable in a coastal environment.



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[*] posted on 6-14-2012 at 08:29 PM


oh my word...brother...mil disculpas for the cement/concrete mix up...I am blonde after all! I do hope our railings are never underwater..but they do get daily spray from the blowhole.

So why does concrete break down and sort of slough off? And why do they make all those concrete sealants? I would be just fine leaving it au naturel if it wasnt going to break down...it is a windy spot too...will it just erode away? Are you SURE we shouldnt seal it? We sure could use the money saved on other things.




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[*] posted on 6-14-2012 at 09:06 PM


Shari, your place looks amazing! It just keeps growing and growing.

Listen to Ken Bondy, he knows what he's talking about. This subject is his livelyhood and he's an expert when it comes to concrete/cement, etc!




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[*] posted on 6-14-2012 at 10:03 PM


Now Ken you well know how high you stand on my list of "respectables", but I'd really like to hear your argument against polymer sealants which have proven to virtually eliminate the intrusion of water into finished concrete. I would cite their use on sidewalks in the north to prevent the spalling from freeze/thaw as proof of their effectiveness as a waterproofer. It seems that anything that makes it take longer for the inevitable intrusion of salt water onto the rebar would be a positive thing. If a baluster cracks the oxidation will swell the steel, and the little post might just pop. A surface sealant won't stop that, but flexible caulking maintenance would help. I'm curious!



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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 04:17 AM


vgabundo and shari

Elastomeric coatings are fine for preventing water intrusion through cracks in concrete and I have specified them many times on roofs. However for this application I am dubious that a coating would provide much benefit. After hydration (the initial chemical reaction between the water and the cement) the best thing you can do to concrete is to keep it wet. The highest quality concrete (strength, durability, permeability) is concrete that is kept permanently underwater, like in bridge foundations. A coating on a concrete rail such as this may be aesthetically pleasing and it may help to retain some excess mixing water (which is good), but I don't think it is necessary for the long term performance of the rail. One thing shari said does concern me and that is the salt spray. Low quality concrete with a high water-to-cement ratio can be susceptible to spalling from excessive wetting and drying. That might be the only valid reason for a coating.




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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 06:11 AM


I had them at my 1st place down here. they're still there 17 years later and I doubt they have been repainted. So IMHO I think a quality solid body stain would work well. I've used stain on my new place and it's working great.


[Edited on 6-15-2012 by Russ]




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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 06:19 AM


she needs to seal that concrete from the salt spray in the air. apples to apples and a scientific explanation of the properties of, ahem, concrete don't negate the fact that the concrete WILL mold/stain on the ocean side, WILL crack in short order and WILL be better protected by a quality sealer.

just do it!




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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 06:33 AM


Oh Shari, by this time you must be totally confused and just want to go have a couple of tequila's. having been in the construction industry for the past 39 years I really have to concur with Ken. Concrete is one of mans best inventions. You can shape in into any shape you want and maintain it's structural integrity. No need to do anything to it, just pour let it cure and it will stand the test of time for hundreds of years. Case and point, the Roman Colosseum, and hundreds of 700 year old churches in Europe ! The only thing that might have been applied to those concrete structures is a bit of pee from the local town drunks !It really comes down to appearance. Do you want to have el-natural look or spiff it up with color ? Sealants and all other concrete products are nothing but some company's trying to make money. Sorry to confuse you even more but that's my 39 year 2 cent worth of advice.:P
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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 07:17 AM


Sis, I don't want to start any more wars:). Based on my experience (50 years now) with the design and construction of hundreds of concrete buildings in coastal areas of Florida, Hawaii, and California, including many within a few feet of the surf line, and what i know about your project, I would not apply a coating if it was my railing. I think the money could be better spent elsewhere. But if you feel more comfortable with some form of coating, by all means start painting:). Other than cost there is no downside to painting on a coating, particularly if it makes you feel better.



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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 07:20 AM


^^^^what he said^^^^



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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 07:49 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by Ken Bondy
vgabundo and shari

Elastomeric coatings are fine for preventing water intrusion through cracks in concrete and I have specified them many times on roofs. However for this application I am dubious that a coating would provide much benefit. After hydration (the initial chemical reaction between the water and the cement) the best thing you can do to concrete is to keep it wet. The highest quality concrete (strength, durability, permeability) is concrete that is kept permanently underwater, like in bridge foundations. A coating on a concrete rail such as this may be aesthetically pleasing and it may help to retain some excess mixing water (which is good), but I don't think it is necessary for the long term performance of the rail. One thing shari said does concern me and that is the salt spray. Low quality concrete with a high water-to-cement ratio can be susceptible to spalling from excessive wetting and drying. That might be the only valid reason for a coating.

Hey Ken, since you are in the biz I'm sure you are familar with KIM ADMIX for waterproofing concrete. The Navy uses it a lot for underwater structures but of course it is added into the concrete pour; not after the 28 day cure. The same company that makes that(http://www.kryton.com ) also makes a sealant that is applied afterwards and is used on repairing/ sealing cracks, etc. on ferro-cement boats. Only reason is to protect the embeded rebar which will ruin a ferro-cement hull if it begains to rust; much like the rebar in the ballisters.




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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 07:59 AM


oh this IS rich! I just knew a Nomad brother would come to my aid. One of the man things I love about our rock rooms is that we dont have to seal and paint them...ever! No unsightly paint peeling, colour matching, painting..and it always looks great...low maintenance which is my motto! So I am happy to go with the unpainted, untreated if the experts say so.

I am a bit concerned with the "Low quality concrete with a high water-to-cement ratio can be susceptible to spalling from excessive wetting and drying. " as Ken mentioned...this is most likely the case on the hand rail on top anyway...the actual spindles look pretty skookum...but the top rail may have some quality cement issues....and they do get wet and dry from the blowhole on a daily basis...with salt water...hmmm




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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 08:07 AM


shari did you cast the verticals yourself onsite or did you buy them from a fabricator? Do you know if they contain any reinforcing steel?



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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 08:11 AM


we purchased them in Vizcaino...they seem pretty solid and have a rebar down the middle.



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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 08:13 AM


I agree with Ken.
Example of how forgiving cement is. All the homes here until recently used beach sand for their cement mixes. Block, mortar, brown coat and slabs. Most are in fair shape. The ones that are not holding up well are because the contractors save $ by using less cement.
I painted exterior of homes for a couple years and homes that used a stain rather than paint were by far easier to maintain and restrain over the home that were painted. No chipping or sanding stain. just a quick wash and reapply.:tumble:
Stain quality today is far better than in the past and color choices are almost equal to paint.
I can also imagine Shari's blasters in bright colors.

[Edited on 6-15-2012 by Russ]




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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 11:16 AM


Thanks for that Ken, and everyone else. I'm hearing that the problem is really that NOTHING is going to be very effective in preventing deterioration in that "damned near built on a pier" location and that the decision is less one of effectiveness of a sealer, than of the ultimate waste of money trying to fool mother nature!

I've heard that under the best of conditions, concrete keeps getting harder for about the first 200 years. In my judgement the problem will be inadequate sealant on the REBAR which will not get stronger for 200 years in a salt saturated environment!

There is a price to be paid for being able to sit at home and look down into a Pacific blowhole!!!

Given how often your are going to be able to keep those rooms rented Shari, I'll bet you can afford to replace some concrete every decade or so!

What an absolute "one of a kind" place!




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[*] posted on 6-15-2012 at 12:29 PM


Thanks for that vgabndo. I was sorry to hear that the vertical members contain a piece of rebar "down the middle". That's a shame. A longitudinal bar in that application provides no benefit and presents the possibility for corrosion and splitting. If the bar can be seen at the ends of the members, as I presume it can, THAT'S where a coating would be useful :)



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