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WideAngleWandering
Nomad
Posts: 414
Registered: 3-13-2012
Location: US-Based but traveling
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San Pedro Martír National Park, At Last
Full post with photos: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/search/label/San%20Pedro%2...
2012-09-11
Clouds Under San Pedro Martir by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
With my new hardened chromoly axles from Marlin installed, I set off to make my third attempt to reach the San Pedro Martír National Park. At over
10,000 feet, the park promised beautiful skies, a respite from the heat and a landscape with flora and fauna not found in most of Baja.
My first attempt was foiled by a very ugly series of thunderstorms. My second by the great axle disaster near Rancho Coyote. This time, I was
determined to reach the park and shoot some starscapes.
I started south from Punta Banda, this time following the highway to the park. With only two roads to navigate, there was no chance of getting lost,
and being paved, no risk to my axles. On the way up, however, a heavy rain set in. Did I want to camp in the mountains in a heavy rain with no stars
in sight? Was there any reason to continue? Would my third attempt be foiled as well?
I stopped at Rancho Meling to grab a bite to eat. In the dining room, I met Ana, who offered to make me a burrito, which I gratefully accepted. Of
course I was the only one at the ranch, other than a few workers. Ana didn't have anything else to do but sit and talk, and I was grateful for the
company, so I told her about my plans to see the stars from high in the mountains and how this was my third attempt to do so. Ana didn't think the
rain would let up and I briefly considered spending the night on the ranch ($50US for a room, $10US to camp on the lawn).
While we waited out the rain, she told me about her life in the Unite States. She had worked for years as a housekeeper in California and Nevada
hotels. Her family had been separated between Mexico and the United States due to immigration issues. Once the housing market crashed and the
economy in the states faltered, it made more sense to return home and find work in Mexico. There were more people than jobs in the capital and so she
ended up in the Baja sierras, working at this ranch.
Late in the afternoon, the rain started to slow down and I decided to make my move, arriving in the park around 6PM after a steep climb. There would
be no RVs here. I paid 54 pesos to enter, took a short drive through the park and then set up camp. I saw one other vehicle arrive behind me but I
never saw them or anyone else in the park after that.
I built a small fire from wet wood and pine needles, ate a simple meal of tortillas, beans and tomatoes, and put out the fire so I could see the stars
more clearly. Within a few minutes, a blanked of clouds spread over the sky and I retreated to the truck to read and sleep in the damp chill.
San Pedro Martir Cloudscape by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
I woke up early and stared out of the tailgate at the rain. Around 8AM I crawled stiffly out of the truck, donned my rain gear and ate fruit and
yogurt for breakfast. As the rain faded, a bright, grey, diffuse fog drifted through the trees and over my camp, covering me, the truck, the trees and
everything around me in cloud-stuff. It lifted after just a few minutes but it is a sight I will never forget.
I spent the rest of the morning hiking the trails, amongst the clouds and the cows and woodpeckers and pine trees and some sort of bird whose wings
make a turbulence that sounds almost like a small helicopter when it takes off. I crossed sandy trails flanked by granite boulders, dry arroyos
dampened by the fog and gazed out over wide expanses of valleys and the lower peaks.
In the afternoon sun, I drove the short road through the park to a museum and visitor's center. It was closed. Inside, through the windows, the
displays looked new and modern, as if it had been built and promptly closed, never exposed to the wear and tear of visitors. I continued up to the
observatory but the gate was locked and a sign said they only take visitors from 10-1PM. Along the way I saw a man, the only person I'd seen in the
park, walking down the road and kicking fallen rocks onto the shoulder.
Back at my campsite, I took some of my supply of Ray's Own beef jerky and walked out to the park entrance to share it with the rangers. I talked to
one man who'd been working at the park for 16 years. He told me about a British author who had spent 3 months in the park researching his book. He
too had brought them beef jerky.
That night I built another wet fire, ate another simple meal and retired early when the rain and clouds obscured the sky.
[Edited on 2012-11-23 by WideAngleWandering]
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desertcpl
Super Nomad
Posts: 2396
Registered: 10-26-2008
Location: yuma,az
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Britt author,, any one want to quess,, but not you DK
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64854
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by desertcpl
Britt author,, any one want to quess,, but not you DK |
LOL... does anyone really need to guess???
and he's a Baja Nomad, too!  
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captkw
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3850
Registered: 10-19-2010
Location: el charro b.c.s.
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Mood: new dog/missing the old 1
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W angle W
Hola,as some one that has been to all the places you have posted I am really interested as to WHY you choose a toyota land crusher for your trip ???
axles and poor mileage ??? ps... nice pics..thanx
[Edited on 11-23-2012 by captkw]
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WideAngleWandering
Nomad
Posts: 414
Registered: 3-13-2012
Location: US-Based but traveling
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I get over 18-22mpg depending on the terrain. Mileage is fine by me. The axle, well, that was my dumb mistake. Still, I'd rather have a solid axle
than anything you find on more modern trucks.
It's old, easy to work on, easy to modify (so even my dumb ass can do it) and I can sell it when I'm done if I want for the same price I paid for it.
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WideAngleWandering
Nomad
Posts: 414
Registered: 3-13-2012
Location: US-Based but traveling
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Mike Sky Ranch, Now With Less Axle Damage
Full post with links and larger pics (see it in all it's glory): http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/11/mike-sky-ranch-now...
2012-09-11
From Rancho Coyote Heading North by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
This morning I packed up the truck under a clear blue sky with the clouds racing overhead, emphasizing the effect of altitude on one's perspective.
This might have been a good night for stargazing in the park but after three days I was ready to move on.
I set off at 9AM, a pretty early start for me, after first tracking down a ranger to open the gate and let me out. The view was not too different
from what you might see on Tioga Pass in California, but steeper and with more rocks washed out over the pavement, including one new boulder that
would surely take heavy equipment to clear.
My goal for the day was to finally cross the trail from the observatory road to MX-3 via Rancho El Coyote and Mike's Sky Ranch, ending in San Felipe.
The only other way was a long loop west to MX-1, north to MX-3, east to MX-5 and south to San Felipe.
As I drove down the observatory road, I couldn't see the turn-off to Rancho El Coyote so I stopped at Rancho Meling for advice. The owner looked up
and asked, "Are you alone?"
Yes, I said, and pointed at Betsy, but I can make it.
"I wouldn't recommend it. That road is pretty bad."
I almost made it once before, I told him.
"Did you get over the hill?"
Yep.
He shook his head and knelt in the dirt, drawing me a map. "Good luck then."
The turn-off was just west of of the ranch. The El Coyote sign was covered in Rancho Meling advertisements but now that I knew where to look I did
spot it. El Coyote was closed but I got more route advice from one of the workers. I asked what the road condition was like. He looked up, then
down, and said "I don't know. There's been a lot of rain."
Hah, I scoffed, and set off again.
Oasis by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
The trail was a bit confusing near El Coyote but once I was on the right path, it was easy going. There were very few spur trails and while I didn't
see any other vehicles, I did see some motorcycle tracks that I followed through lush areas just past El Coyote.
Once the trail reconnected with the main path to Mike's Sky Ranch, the terrain became much more rugged, with many recently washed out arroyos and a
few rocks that had to be moved from my path.
Climbing to Mike Sky Ranch by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Most of the trail didn't require 4WD but I did need low range for some of the hill climbs. Fully loaded, Betsy is kind of a pig. With 18 gallons in
the tank, another 15 on the rear bumper, 6 33" mud terrains, a plywood/2x4 bed to sleep on and my set of tools, I suspect she's a bit overweight for
this sort of terrain.
Descending to Mike Sky Ranch by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
The descent down the hill yielded many more stunning views, but I left the Contour on auto as I was paying far too much attention to the road to stop
and take photos.
Eventually I reached Mike's, crossed the stream, traversed some more rough terrain and reached the sandy trail out to the highway. Along the way I
stopped at Juan's ranch, where I'd spent the night after the great axle disaster, and gave him a recipe for apple marmelade. Nomads - keep an eye out
- there may be a new jelly man on the peninsula.
Exiting the Trail to MX-3 by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
From the pavement to San Felipe took another couple of hours, plus 15 minutes at the army checkpoint at the junction of MX-3 and MX-5. From this
point on I'm going to start being difficult with these checkpoints (forgetting all my Spanish and making them work a bit harder) as this guy asked me
a million random questions, rifled through all my stuff and generally made a mess of my packing.
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WideAngleWandering
Nomad
Posts: 414
Registered: 3-13-2012
Location: US-Based but traveling
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| Quote: | Originally posted by captkw
ps... nice pics..thanx |
Thank you - I'm glad y'all like them.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64854
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Good to go back and conquer the trail!
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captkw
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3850
Registered: 10-19-2010
Location: el charro b.c.s.
Member Is Offline
Mood: new dog/missing the old 1
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toyota'S
they dont really break ya see,,,the just get a sore once in a while !!! K&T
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WideAngleWandering
Nomad
Posts: 414
Registered: 3-13-2012
Location: US-Based but traveling
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2 Became 7 in San Felipe
Full post, with links and captions and full-size pics and all that jazz: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/11/2-became-7-in-san-...
2012-09-18
How I Felt By the End of the Night by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Those who know me will not be surprised that I stayed in San Felipe longer than I'd planned. One might blame my propensity to linger, dawdle, drift
and amble but in this case I am not to blame. I just met some cool cats on my way out of town.
I arrived late on Tuesday, feeling quite grungy after 5 days of mostly damp camping in the sierras and on the Pacific coast. I just wanted to do some
laundry, sleep in, sort out the truck and hit the road. Thursday morning I was ready to do just that. I pulled the truck up to the hotel office,
went inside to pay the bill, and came out to start pulling away when I heard someone say, "hey, I like your truck." Betsy really is a looker. I get
this all the time.
I looked over and saw a shirtless Oregonian sitting in a camp chair outside his hotel room with his girlfriend nearby. They offered me a cold beer,
my kryptonite when I'm hounded by the relentless Baja daystar, and soon my plans to hit the road had faded like billboard in the Mexican desert.
Found Some Mud by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
They stayed until Sunday. The next four days were a blur of Tecate Light, steamed clams, lounging on the beaches ($20 per car to use the beaches
south of town - outrageous!), terrible music, chasing iguanas, driving around in the sand and mud and all around good times with them and their
geriatric shepherd/collie mix.
Saturday would have been particularly memorable as this was Mexican Independence Day, a time for national pride, drunkenness and fireworks. I enjoyed
just enough, or perhaps precisely too much, delicous Mexican beer to recount any details but I was able to operate my camera, so this story will be
told in pictures. It must suffice to say there were big sombreros, tasty food, fireworks and a strange conversation with an
arsonist-turned-bartender.
Can't Focus by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Military Displays by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Independence Day Fireworks by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Power Saving Bulb by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
I did eventually get on the road, after a day of recovery and another cleaning the mud and grime out of Betsy's starter solenoid. Today I head back
out into the desert.
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captkw
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3850
Registered: 10-19-2010
Location: el charro b.c.s.
Member Is Offline
Mood: new dog/missing the old 1
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THE MUUUDDD !!
NIC PICs but the mud pic should be on the cover of some 4by4 rag !!!! K&T
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805gregg
Super Nomad
Posts: 1344
Registered: 5-21-2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
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Another broken Toyota, who would have thought?
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captkw
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3850
Registered: 10-19-2010
Location: el charro b.c.s.
Member Is Offline
Mood: new dog/missing the old 1
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anything can brake !!
And when your off road in baja (few beers) is the real test !! thats a Damn nice camara you got there !! your pic's are awesome !! is it you or the
camara....I know....Both !! K&T
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WideAngleWandering
Nomad
Posts: 414
Registered: 3-13-2012
Location: US-Based but traveling
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I've broken every vehicle I've ever owned - Toyota gets no special treatment there. Hell, you don't even want to see what I've done to it now 
I have several cameras. I use 35mm Canon FD SLRs (film) but I won't have those processed and scanned for a while. To pick up the slack, I'm using a
Sony NEX-5 (a compact mirrorless camera with a real shutter and a pretty large sensor - aps-c). What really makes it pop, however, is the lens &
the processing.
I use my nice Canon manual lenses with this little automatic camera via an adapter. I shoot all the images in RAW format and process them manually
using GIMP & ufraw. It's like an open-source (free as in beer and as in speech) alternative to Photoshop.
Thanks for the compliments. I've been practicing for a while.
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captkw
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3850
Registered: 10-19-2010
Location: el charro b.c.s.
Member Is Offline
Mood: new dog/missing the old 1
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WAwanderer
Hola,,The only car/truck I have not broke is my 89 volvo 240 !! and my first "real camara"...Cannon AE1 with all kinds of add-ons....to me,, as a lay
man..that took some good shots ...my toy land crusher that I shipped to coasta rica was a slooow Tank..maybe a 78 or so(I ferget now) and could only
use it early due to Heat !! had a hell of a low lugging monster 6 banger !!....that drive shaft CV(pic) dosnt look anything not normal ...we call
them Knukles >>LOL
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WideAngleWandering
Nomad
Posts: 414
Registered: 3-13-2012
Location: US-Based but traveling
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Mechanic's Report - Taller Barney in San Felipe
Full post (click it!): http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/11/mechanics-report-t...
Read the same content below if you don't appreciate the effort I've put into making my non-commercial ad-free site attractive and pleasant to use (or
if you use Internet Explorer, hah!).
2012-09-17
Betsy's Gets Her Starter Flushed by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
After a couple of weeks spent driving around in the mud, sometimes for fun, sometimes just to get across a washed out road during one of the rain
storms, Betsy's starter solenoid started hanging up. Getting it to start involved a hammer and sometimes jumping the starter solenoid to the battery.
After a couple days of this, I stopped by Taller Barney to see Alfeín, a highly recommended mechanic in San Felipe. I don't mind doing my own work
when I'm at home, but on the road, it's nice to let someone else get greasy.
Alfeín's crew had the starter off in no time. He opened it up and a couple ounces of water, mud and grime poured out. I don't really understand how
all that muck could have infiltrated the starter.
One of the kids in the shop ran down the road and came back with half a gallon of gasoline, a two-liter bottle of coke and some plastic cups. By this
point the neighbors had started filtering in and we shared cold drinks during the afternoon heat as Alfein vigorously cleaned out the starter with the
gasoline.
I met a guy with a prosthetic leg who runs every day along MEX-5, learned how to spot the water caches that the locals leave in the desert, got some
tips on good places to hide money and valuables in my truck and heard many tales of roads and trips throughout México.
While I was there, I spotted some pretty cool vehicles. Alfeín likes to brag that he does his fabrication by intuition and with his senses. He has a
mental image in his head of what he's building or fixing and doesn't need computers, manuals or plans.
I can't speak to that, but his V8 converted FJ40 job was coming along nicely, the engine sounded great and he got my starter in like-new condition for
cheap. Hanging out in his shop was not a bad way to pass an afternoon.
The Motor Whisperer by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Desert Cruiser by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Desert Cart by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Desert Buggy by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
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WideAngleWandering
Nomad
Posts: 414
Registered: 3-13-2012
Location: US-Based but traveling
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Stars over Punta Willard
See the post on WideAngleWandering.com, slathered in awesome-sauce: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/11/to-punta-willard.h...
2012-09-18
View from Punta Willard at Sunset by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
This morning, before leaving San Felipe, I had to stop for one last breakfast at Champ's. I shared my huevos rancheros with the cat and thought about
finally getting back into Baja's wild desert landscapes for some camping.
After breakfast, I lingered over conversation with the waiters, Benny and Alfonso. Benny has lived in San Felipe for 24 years and greets me every
morning with a smile. Alfonso is the new guy. He speaks English primarily, having lived in the US since he was three years old. He left the United
States in the late 90s after a DUI arrest. He unknowingly signed an agreement permanently banning him from the United States in exchange for a speedy
deportation (avoiding time in an immigration holding center) and dropping the DUI charges. His kids still live in the states.
After breakfast, I stopped at the market and bought water, tortillas, cheese and a bag of cooked beans. Even I can assemble this into an easy meal.
Finally on the road, I stopped just south of San Felipe and picked up a hitch-hiker, Alberto, who was headed for Puertocitos to work on the
road-building crew. He was born in Mazatlan but now lives in Puerto Peñasco. For several months he has been in Baja, working. He stays with friends
in San Felipe on the weekends and hitchhikes to the job site during the week. He was enthusiastic about Maztlán and encouraged me to spend time
there.
I dropped him off in Puertocitos, and soon after, encountered the road construction. I spent the last few miles to Gonzaga picking my way through the
trails crossing the torn-up dirt road, weaving between the occasional bull-dozer or dump truck and keeping an eye out for the sudden drop-offs where
the bridges were not yet in place. This is one of the few construction zones I've seen where I would have appreciated a pilot car.
Three hours after leaving San Felipe, I saw the turn-off for Papa Fernández restaurant and palapas. Cruz met me at the gate, charging 60 pesos for a
palapa and a place to camp. He was an incredibly friendly and welcoming guy and I was glad to throw some money his way.
Clouds over Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
I set up my hammock and explored the beach a bit before making myself some tortillas 'n beans 'n cheese for dinner. As the sun began to go down, I
took some photographs.
After darkness fell, I found myself in a spectacular location to photograph the stars. For the first time on the trip, there were no city lights, no
lighthouses, no boats on the horizon, no cars and no flashlights. Just nature. It was perfect.
Milky Way Over Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Ursa Major from Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Ursa Major from Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
[Edited on 2012-11-29 by WideAngleWandering]
Traveling the Americas via my old land cruiser
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64854
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Great!
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WideAngleWandering
Nomad
Posts: 414
Registered: 3-13-2012
Location: US-Based but traveling
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Gonzaga Bah
2012-09-20
Gonzaga Bay Pastels and Bird by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
I woke up early, sweating, as the sun was up and over the horizon. The fridge drained my battery overnight so I cooked all the perishables and had
more machaca/chile/lime tacos than any person should need in the morning.
After breakfast I went out and explored the rocky beach and went for a swim. The water was shallow, warm and very clear with small grey minnows and
bright yellow fish that looked like they belonged in a small freshwater acquarium. Later I regretted this swim as it caused blisters, like little
chemical burns on my skin.
READ MORE: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/12/gonzaga-blah.html
[SIZE="1"]Click through for more photos and the exciting conclusion. Will I turn into a half-shark half-human supercreature? Wrestle a jelly fish to
shore? Stumble into a real estate deal, meet a Bajeña and spend the rest of my life in Gonzaga? Or just drift on to the next spot?
Sorry about the teaser - I'm getting lazy about copying/pasting/fixing links/swapping HTML for BBCode, etc to copy these posts to the various forums.
[/SIZE]
[Edited on 2012-12-5 by WideAngleWandering]
Traveling the Americas via my old land cruiser
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WideAngleWandering
Nomad
Posts: 414
Registered: 3-13-2012
Location: US-Based but traveling
Member Is Offline
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Coco's Corner
Full Post http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/12/cocos-corner.html
2012-09-21
Bahia de los Angelos Sunset by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Yesterday I left Gonzaga Bay and headed towards Coco's Corner, not sure if I was after a deserted beach with no grumpy conversations or if I'd make
another stab at finding the overland track, if there even is one in Mexico right now.
Heading south, I drove through beautiful desert landscape with ocotillo cactus swaying in the breeze, tall saguaro's standing solid and many rocks
covered in spray-painted graffiti from thoughtless passers-by. This is pretty inhospitable territory and I have a hard time imagining the early
inhabitants, conquistadors and missionaries making their way through this place. Stopping to take a break and some photos, I saw two vehicles pass by.
Both made a point of stopping and making sure I was ok.
Click here for the full post, with photos and links and all that happy stuff.
[SIZE=1](sorry for the teasers. i don't really care if people go to my blog, there's not an ad-word or an attempt at profit to be found there. I'm
just tired of reformatting/fixing links/writing UBB code to convert blog posts to forum posts)[/SIZE]
[Edited on 2012-12-5 by WideAngleWandering]
Traveling the Americas via my old land cruiser
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