| Pages:
1
2
3
4
5
6 |
BornFisher
Super Nomad
Posts: 2107
Registered: 1-11-2005
Location: K-38 Santa Martha/Encinitas
Member Is Offline
|
|
Loving it, thanks!
|
|
|
David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64854
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
|
|
I am glad some of you enjoy my Baja trip reports and travel/ history notes. I appreciate the feedback and it keeps me wanting to give more back to my
viewing amigos here!
To me, Baja California (the "original" California), is a history class open to all who are inspired to attend, despite the many difficulties or
hardships a desert adventure in another country may include.
There are only two more days left to report on:
San Ignacio to Nuevo Mazatlan on Sunday and Nuevo Mazatlan to Mexicali on Monday.
What happens on Sunday morning could easily chase some tourist out of Mexico forever. It is an event that has never happened to me in my 50 years of
travels south of the border (41 as the vehicle driver).
Many think I write only good things and hide the bad. Actually, my attitude is one of seeking good experiences and bad stuff rarely happens. Of the
four trips that Elizabeth and I have taken together south of the Eagle Monument (into Baja Sur), this was the only one with a bad experience that was
not needed. The weather and insect issues are acts of Nature and excusable. Not all camping trips can be perfect, and we understand that. What
happened Sunday morning was not excusable.
Stay tuned! 
|
|
|
ncampion
Super Nomad
Posts: 1238
Registered: 4-15-2006
Location: Loreto
Member Is Offline
Mood: Retired and Loving it
|
|
Great report (as always) can't wait to hear the final chapter!
Living Large in Loreto. Off-grid and happy.
|
|
|
AKgringo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6027
Registered: 9-20-2014
Location: Anchorage, AK (no mas!)
Member Is Offline
Mood: Retireded
|
|
Glad to hear that Mark and Olivia should be getting the motel back, I hope things work well for them.
I have been following this forum for less than a year, and caught part of a long running thread about their problems. At the time, I did not make the
connection that it was the same place I stayed in 1999. We stayed there on the way down the peninsula, and on the way back and were treated well at
both the motel and the restaurant.
It was twelve years before I made the trip again, and was disappointed and puzzled to find it closed! Now that I know they still run the restaurant,
I will certainly eat there this fall when I intend to spend a week or so exploring the Mulege/Conception area a bit more thoroughly.
Thanks again David, and please, no more cliffhanging!
If you are not living on the edge, you are taking up too much space!
"Could do better if he tried!" Report card comments from most of my grade school teachers. Sadly, still true!
|
|
|
desertcpl
Super Nomad
Posts: 2396
Registered: 10-26-2008
Location: yuma,az
Member Is Offline
|
|
great posts
now come on,, I am right on the edge
|
|
|
Howard
Super Nomad
Posts: 2353
Registered: 11-13-2007
Location: Loreto/Manhattan Beach/Kona
Member Is Offline
Mood: I'd rather regret the things I've done than regret the things I haven't done.
|
|
Stop teasing us!
This wait is worse than going to a Saturday Buck Rogers matinee and have to wait to see if he lives in the next episode!
We don't stop playing because we grow old;
we grow old because we stop playing
George Bernard Shaw
|
|
|
vandenberg
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5118
Registered: 6-21-2005
Location: Nopolo
Member Is Offline
Mood: mellow
|
|
Quote: Originally posted by Howard  | This wait is worse than going to a Saturday Buck Rogers matinee and have to wait to see if he lives in the next episode!
|
Not to fret, this Buck is indestructable!!
|
|
|
LancairDriver
Super Nomad
Posts: 1593
Registered: 2-22-2008
Location: On the Road
Member Is Offline
|
|
I think the individual user is aware of this and capable of making their own decision on managing their internet use.
| Quote: Originally posted by lencho | Not everybody is you: Speed aside, consider also that many
users have metered Internet (satellite or cell phone connections), and that excessive traffic can actually cost them money. Efficient, concise use of
the resource is considerate of our unknown audience out there. 
|
|
|
|
Ken Cooke
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8946
Registered: 2-9-2004
Location: Riverside, CA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Pole Line Road postponed due to injury
|
|
| Quote: Originally posted by David K |
What happens on Sunday morning could easily chase some tourist out of Mexico forever. It is an event that has never happened to me in my 50 years of
travels south of the border (41 as the vehicle driver).
Stay tuned! |
For this reason, I prefer Baja to Sinaloa. 
|
|
|
Ken Cooke
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8946
Registered: 2-9-2004
Location: Riverside, CA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Pole Line Road postponed due to injury
|
|
It can't cost THAT much???
| Quote: Originally posted by lencho | | users have metered Internet (satellite or cell phone connections), and that excessive traffic can actually cost them money. |
When I ran out of cell data, I walked around the corner, down the street, and around the next corner and paid about 25,000 Colombian Pesos = $15 at
the time (January 2015). Is your cell data that expensive? South of the border it should be affordable.
|
|
|
ncampion
Super Nomad
Posts: 1238
Registered: 4-15-2006
Location: Loreto
Member Is Offline
Mood: Retired and Loving it
|
|
| Quote: Originally posted by lencho |
Nah, it's the principle of the thing. 
Wars have been fought for less, I bet.
[Edited on 8-1-2015 by lencho] |
If it's really just "the principle of the thing" - well get over it! The pictures add immensely to the narrative of most trip reports and without
them you lose a great deal of the impact. I suggest that if you can't get over it, don't open an trip reports. David went above and beyond to post a
separate report without pictures for limited bandwidth users; but "the principle", come on.
Living Large in Loreto. Off-grid and happy.
|
|
|
desertcpl
Super Nomad
Posts: 2396
Registered: 10-26-2008
Location: yuma,az
Member Is Offline
|
|
okay DK,, but do it when you have the time and not rush it
( well maybe ) LOL
|
|
|
David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64854
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
|
|
Sunday, July 26: MARIJUANA ?? NO!!
Sunday, July 26: We sleep in, it is quiet there at Rice and Beans Sunday morning. Neither of us are hungry so we pass on having breakfast and get on
the road at 10:50 am. Rice and Beans now has a direct entrance off Hwy. 1. Before, you would need to go to the first paved road on the right, before
the gas station. The town plaza road is the second paved road to the right, just past the gas station.
About two miles west of San Ignacio is a military checkpoint, and there are no cars or trucks in line ahead of us. I drive up with the windows rolled
down and say Buenos Dias. I am asked the typical Where are you coming from? (in Spanish) and reply Rice and Beans and Mulege before. I am asked Got
Drugs? (Not the usual, do you have guns or drugs?.
No, no drugs, is my reply. We are then asked to get out so they can search and this is typical northbound. The guy asking the question goes
immediately to the floor mat and running board and is picking through the gravel and shell bits in the truck carpet from my shoe bottoms the past few
days. They have never done that before in all my years.
He picks up what looks like a small dark rock, very tiny, and says, Marijuana? Of course my answer is no, as neither of us use Marijuana (or any
illegal drugs). Elizabeth is on her side of the truck watching his actions closely, and responds as well, No.
He then takes a cigarette lighter out of his pocket and lights the tiny object, and it smokes, and he says Marijuana! To which I state very clearly,
no marijuana, I don't smoke cigarettes or marijuana. He has me smell the small burning piece of whatever, and I just shake my head and step back. It
is so tiny it is discarded and he proceeds to slowly search my truck. Now, none of the other soldiers are doing anything and this guy is almost in a
joking mood saying things to one other soldier. The others are looking disgusted and have their heads lowered in embarrassment. This guy opens my
flashlight to look at the batteries, then the bag my tire pump is in, and not much else. He then looks in my ice chests, giggles to the other guy and
says we can go.
He was totally messing with us, and if I wasn't in such shock and wanting to get away from there, I may have insisted on getting his name and
comandante's name. Elizabeth said she looked for a name badge and didn't see one. This was about 11-11:30 am Sunday. I was not afraid, because unless
he planted something on us, we had nothing illegal. I only wonder if the seed or whatever he lit was from the parking lot or beach. But, I don't think
it was marijuana, or hope not! CLEAN your floor mats before you drive away, each day in Mexico!
We drive away stunned to what just happened. I am thinking that if we were newbies to Mexico, that incident would have easily ended any chance to go
return. There are just too many great places to drive to in the United States to put up with stuff like this. I love Baja California too much to let
any joker in a uniform keep me away.
Several miles north, we pull off to make some PB&Js (Peanut Butter & Jelly sandwiches). It was at the side road for San Francisco de la
Sierra. Not sure why, but flies by the dozens were being a real nuisance to our lunch prep. It took about 50 miles over opening and closing the
windows to get them all out of the truck!
We topped the gas tank at a new station in Vizcaino (42 miles from San Ignacio), on the right (east) side of highway. It had a different price than
the most of the others (14.20 pesos per liter). The truck took on 51.6 liters for 700 pesos. It was 12:09 pm.
Crossing north from Baja California Sur to the state of Baja California, we got back the hour we lost going south (i.e. 1 pm became 12 pm). We arrived
at Laguna Chapala and left the pavement at 1:44 pm Pacific time, 152 miles from Vizcaino.
Survey marker for the new highway begin about 7 miles from Hwy. 1. In the hills we encounter two huge dump trucks and pull over to allow them to pass.
We pass Coco's Corner and reach the pavement at the same spot as before, 23 miles from Hwy. 1. I had deflated my tires to 25 psi for the dirt section,
but decide to wait to re-inflate them at the new rest stop/ view point at the Santa Maria River bridge, about 7 miles north. We drive slowly with the
tires 9 psi lower than normal.
Rest stop at north side of Santa Maria bridge (called Las Arrastras bridge on signs).
At the fancy rest stop, we take photos as I pump up the tires and Elizabeth points out that a handicap ramp was made to get to the sidewalk, no ramp
was made to pass the many steps leading to the viewing platform! On my last tire to refill, the tube get P-nched as I walk away momentarily, and I
hear the pump motor make a different sound after a clap noise! Yikes, the back pressure blew a ring or check valve inside the little motor, and it no
longer pumped out air!
We go to Rancho Grande, get clean ice (70 pesos for one big and one small bag) to replace the murky block ice we bought in Mulegé, and I drive around
to the back and get some air for the one low tire. It is 4:06 pm and we drive to Alfonsina's Resort. The gas station is closed this afternoon, but I
think I can make San Felipe on what is in the tank from Vizcaino. A gate is opened to proceed to Alfonsina's and we are given a guest pass for the
dash. It is 2 miles to the motel/ restaurant/ bar and it is busy, but we have a nice seat on the deck. A family is playing in the water and manager
Antonio comes out to greet us after we get seated by a very friendly waiter. Ice cold Pacificos and garlic shrimp dinners are ordered.
Two shrimp dinners and four Pacificos were US$42 + tip. We ask Antonio about a room, and the price is posted at US$80. No AC, because no generator,
just the breeze off the bay. We pass on getting a room and leave at 5:26 pm. We push on north, and the drive is easy. Because we lost the air pump's
use, we decide to camp at Nuevo Mazatlan, where I have gone camping since 1967 until I found the road onto Shell Island in 1978, and a couple times
since, as well.
We arrive at Nuevo Mazatlan, and the campground is deserted. We set up in the trees closest to the beach. Nuevo Mazatlan in unique in being a tree
shaded campground, next to a big sand beach. The trees were planted in the late 1960s by Nuevo Mazatlan founder Luis Castellanos Moreno. It is an
oasis in the desert! We get there well before sundown and have time to just relax in our chairs before setting up the tent and air mattress inside.
Later, a small fire is made with artificial logs and the early evening is peaceful and quiet. What a day this was!!!
Headlights approach, and we hear a Buenos noches, I reply with same then say, Javier? Si, Javier! The owner of Nuevo Mazatlan, Javier, since 1984
visits with us. I relate my history here at his camp and how Luis worked so hard growing this forest here by the beach before other camps lined this
now occupied coastline. While talking with Javier in the dark, something very hot is on my left foot... but I am not near the fire??? It is tiny ants,
and Elizabeth identifies them as Fire Ants. Fire indeed! It takes 4 days for the swelling and itching to end, after the burning the first night. Tea
tree oil helps greatly, but Elizabeth hates the smell! We spray the tent base very well, and have no further problem with them. I just happened to be
standing on a nest too long! What a day!!!
Camping is $20 per night, and that includes running water (faucets and sinks are piped throughout the campground), showers (not heated, that's not
needed), and flush toilets. I made a web page to show the camp, a few years ago:
http://vivabaja.com/nm
Once the local dog stops barking, we sleep well. Home tomorrow!
[Edited on 7-3-2020 by David K]
|
|
|
David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64854
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
|
|
Monday, July 27: Going Home!
Monday, July 27: I wake up to catch the sunrise over the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez) and snap a photo, then a little more sleep before we get
up for breakfast and pack up the truck, one final time for this trip.
A few shells from Shell Island, we leave here, and take only this photo.
One last photo of Campo Nuevo Mazatlan as we drive away.
We leave Nuevo Mazatlan (Km. 32) at 9:42 am. In San Felipe, I pull into the oldest station in town, which is on the right as you enter to the traffic
circle from the Hwy. 5 south/ airport road. The price is for Magna (regular, 87 octane) is 13.57 pesos per liter. I get 65.85 liters for 880 pesos
that took me 289.4 miles from Vizcaino to San Felipe. My truck got 17 mpg on this stretch, and that is great considering the heavy load, although
lighter than the trip south. That Pemex station was taking dollars at 14:1 (pesos per dollar). Other San Felipe stations had 15:1 signs up.
There is one more military checkpoint to pass through, and it like the others at El Tomatal and Gonzaga, were great, with no inspection. The San
Ignacio northbound experience was the only black eye on of the entire experience on this and all other previous Baja trips.
We decide to cross north at Mexicali instead of our usual Tecate northbound border. We get to the end of the line at 1:17 pm. The temperature is
104°F, and after mostly idling for half an hour or more, my temperature gauge climbs a bit above the normal place (but never into the red) and the AC
no longer blows out cool air. We are tough, and turn it off and lower the windows. Elizabeth sees a lot of neat and different gifts being sold by the
walking vendors.
About 3 blocks from the U.S. border crossing, we are shocked to see three men perform an act that could rival a circus performance! They create a
human ladder and one man goes over the fence, using a rope or sheet to lower himself safely inside America. He then runs quickly into a Calexico back
yard. The border patrol truck comes screaming to the fence and then zooms around the block. That's a first for us. I see other cars taking pictures
with their cell phones or iPads.
Once at the border, we are asked what we are bringing back and waved inside the country at 2:29 pm. 1 hour and 12 minutes at downtown Mexicali/
Calexico. An early dinner or late lunch at Golden Acorn Casino was excellent. The $7.77 prime rib dinner with baked potato was yummy. We filled up the
truck at the San Marcos Costco ($3.75/ gallon), 261.8 miles from the San Felipe fill up, getting 15.6 mpg. Pulled up to our garage at 6:22 pm. Total
miles on the odometer since leaving here: 1,448 miles.
Conclusion:
The Good: Great beach days (except for the rain part); Visiting with Coco; Honest gas pumps (from what I could tell); Seeing the Magdalena site
remains; La Huerta motel; The Food; News from Mark at Buenaventura; Alfonsina's restaurant; More!
The Bad: Rain soaking our clothes and pillows; tire pump fail; Mosquitos, beach bugs and Fire Ants!
The Ugly: Military checkpoint at San Ignacio, but just the one guy messing with us for laughs.
THE GOOD WINS!
[Edited on 7-3-2020 by David K]
|
|
|
David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64854
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
|
|
I am happy to provide any other details or maps of this trip. Let me know. Everyone has different interests or information needs. The way I do trip
reports is just put out the data and photos, as a lot of story telling isn't needed. Others write more colorfully than me. I am one who is more a
detail guy posting mileage numbers, town spellings, etc.
I know there are a LOT of photos in this thread, but I took nearly 300, so these are just a sampling.
Here is one I forget to include, taken where the pavement ends, km. 170, south of Gonzaga...
|
|
|
Whale-ista
Super Nomad
Posts: 2009
Registered: 2-18-2013
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
Mood: Sunny with chance of whales
|
|
Thank you for great photos and narrative. Good to be updated on condition of roads & future construction plans.
Overall sounds like a very fun trip!
Glad you didn't let one soldier with a strange sense of humor outweigh all the rest.
\"Probably the airplanes will bring week-enders from Los Angeles before long, and the beautiful poor bedraggled old town will bloom with a
Floridian ugliness.\" (John Steinbeck, 1940, discussing the future of La Paz, BCS, Mexico)
|
|
|
Ken Bondy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3326
Registered: 12-13-2002
Member Is Offline
Mood: Mellow
|
|
Fantastic David!! Blown away!! Living vicariously through you!!!
carpe diem!
|
|
|
TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Member Is Offline
|
|
Excellent report David, thanks. I never had a military checkpoint guy do what they did to you. But at the ckpt north of Guerrero Negro one time they
spend a lot of time on the passenger side looking down where the hood meets the windshield. Using a flashlight and even under the dash. They spent
several minutes on it. I asked if they wanted the hood raised and they said no. Finally they let me go.
|
|
|
ehall
Super Nomad
Posts: 1906
Registered: 3-29-2014
Location: Buckeye, Az
Member Is Offline
Mood: It's 5 o'clock somewhere
|
|
Great report and pictures. It sucks they screwed with you guys for their own amusement but at least he was playing around and not seriously setting
you up. Hope it didn't ruin your wife's trip.
|
|
|
sd
Nomad
Posts: 487
Registered: 3-19-2008
Member Is Offline
|
|
Great report David! Sorry you were hassled. When La Paz police stopped me for $$ a few years ago it is hard not to be upset. Good news is nearly
everyone appreciates the tourist and will assist us if needed.
Thanks for sharing your great trip report and photos!
Scot
|
|
|
| Pages:
1
2
3
4
5
6 |
|
![[*]](images/xmbforum/default_icon.gif){kind=icon}
