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Author: Subject: Juan starting rock hot tub!
comitan
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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 03:20 PM


Hot Tubs are notorious for spreading.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



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David K
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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 06:54 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Bob and Susan
david

to shut off the water for a repair...

what is the differance between a gate valve and a ball valve???

i use Christy's Red Hot Blue Glue and primer but i've ALWAYS been told to let it cure onernight if under a load...

not correct????


Hola Bob,

The difference is that a gate valve will leak... sooner or later (not completely shut off the water)

OR it will fail... usually in the closed position... ie. you tighten down the gate to shut off the water and then you try to open it and all that round wheel does is turn around and around... The shaft breaks where it attaches to the gate.

A ball valve is only ~2 dollars more and will not fail in that manner... The worst that can happen is the handle will break (on a PVC ball valve) or rust off (on a brass/ bronze ball valve if left in contact with the soil). It still can be opened or closed with plyers if the handle ever breaks. Valves should not be in dirt, but inside a valve box to keep dirt from contacting it, if installed below grade.

Red Hot Blue Glue works fine without primer on new pipe up to 2" diameter (you should use primer if the pipe has been exposed to sunlight for very long and feels oxydized (powdery). Up to 100 PSI lines, I have pressurized in 10 minutes... an hour if the pressure is higher. Note: I am only relaying my experiences in using that brand for the past 10 years, please follow the directions on the can, if they differ!

The most important part of cementing PVC successfully is a clean, square cut... applying the cement to both the inside/ socket fitting AND around the pipe diameter ~ 1" from the end or the depth of the socket fitting, if more. Pushing the pipe into the fitting with a slight rotation, if possible... then hold the pipe and fitting together for about 10 seconds so the pipe does not hydraulic back out of the socket before the cement can grip them together.

(doesn't this info belong in my How to thread?):light:




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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 07:06 PM


how come the city uses gate valves for the water lines at the street for residental use???

if both kinds of valves fail over time then what is the real differance?

the gate valve cheaper?

the moderator should move this to dk's other thread:biggrin:

and you don't use primer???
aren't you required by code to use primer???

what about the connectors???

aren't they kinda hard and shiny and need primer to assure a pressure seal???

[Edited on 6-30-2008 by Bob and Susan]




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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 07:08 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Bob and Susan
how come the city uses gate valves for the water lines at the street for residental use???
[Edited on 6-30-2008 by Bob and Susan]




Bob: That's why the city is always digging up the streets....:lol:




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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 07:16 PM


Twenty years ago things were different. Most plumbing supplies and parts were made here and to a better degree of quality than todays tagahashi crap.

I can't believe how lousy the ball-valves are in Baja. I don't know where they are made but they suck. Some leak, some are stiff, sunlight destroys them fast. etc.

Now a good U.S. brass gate valve will last along time given it is operated occasionally. Don't get one with cast handles or steel shafts. Buy solid brass.

David, when did ball-valves exceed gate-valves in terms of cost? I find they cost substantially more that pvc???

One more thang.
You might be a good irrigation tech but your pompous attitude about being great is bad.:lol:

btw, a good gate valve is TOTALLY rebuildable. You need not cut the line to repair.;D Pvc does offer sch 80 ball-valve unions but they are real pricey.




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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 07:24 PM


I was helping a local water distrbution company and they were in the process of replacing all of their gate valves due to a high failure rate and have gone to ball valves on the entire line which services about 100,000 water users.
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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 07:36 PM


Yes they are subject to corrosion, electrolysis and sticking. But, had they been operated and serviced once in a while they would last a lot longer.

Pescador, how big are those you are talking about 6-12"? Those big ball vavles are built a tad differently than your typical 1/2" model.

In my old Tolleycraft I installed 1" bronze/stainless ball valves and they were awesome.

Are these the type you refer to or are you saying the big replacement ball-valves are PVC?

[Edited on 6-30-2008 by Sharksbaja]




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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 07:41 PM


I've used PVC Ball valves on my pool the last 13 years been replaced twice need to again can barely turn them 1 1/2 & 2 inch.



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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 07:41 PM


Hi everybody...and thanks for all your helpful suggestions...all of you...here is a link to a pool solar heater a friend sent us...something similar on a smaller scale might work! or might not...http://www.ecoyeco.com/
Is that Guadalupe Canyon a natural hot spring? Looks funky!




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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 10:11 PM


You see Shari: http://www.guadalupe-canyon.com or my many trip reports from there!



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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 11:05 PM


I have developed an itch reading this thread!

Comitan, mine don't look like that !!!!! more like ;;;;;, better see a doc.

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[*] posted on 6-29-2008 at 11:18 PM


If all else fails, perhaps you could pump a slow stream of ocean water in and out of your spa and circulate a separate flow of water from the spa, through a series of black plastic spirals, and then back into the spa. The salt in the water would be "therapeutic." You could have a traditionally heated fresh water rinse down shower nearby. Why not?
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[*] posted on 6-30-2008 at 06:12 AM


Some guys I was with came down to Cabras to surf. They built a temporary hot tub on the beach liner with plastic sheeting and heated with a small 12v circulating pump through copper pipe coiled in the fire pit. It worked but was very temporary and saltwater so no chemicals. I for one will not get in any hot tub, don't want to be in someones hot bath water.
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[*] posted on 6-30-2008 at 07:30 AM


Quote:

the moderator should move this to dk's other thread:biggrin:



no!! this is about hot tubbin' not sprinklers.

now i know everything i ever wanted to know about frickin irrigation valves...........:yawn::yawn::yawn::lol::rolleyes:




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[*] posted on 6-30-2008 at 07:34 AM


the water in your tub will always be as clean as the butt cracks of the people you invite to set in it with you.:O



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[*] posted on 6-30-2008 at 08:15 AM


thanks Packoderm...we've been hashing over the idea of salt water too...as well as putting black PVS on the roof for heating too...lots of options to think about
WOW, guadalupe canyon is spectacular....gorgeous but we won't be paying any $50 for a bath though...no matter how beautiful...(well maybe one day when we join the ranks of the wealthy!)




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[*] posted on 6-30-2008 at 08:32 AM


Check backflow devices (3/4" to 2")... once upon a time they used gate valves... No mas! Gate valves used to be good (made in USA, etc.)... Ball valves are still the way to go. However, there are all degrees of ball valves! If PVC ball valves, I use only the Spears (grey) made in USA ball valve. Otherwise use a bronze bodied ball valve (with a stainless steel ball) made in the USA or Italy, typically (where I shop).

Bob, ball valve failures are the handle corroding when in contact with the dirt... I have also seen the cheaper plastic ball valves with the handle broken... the valve shut off process itself doesn't fail on good ball valves, like all gate valves do.

Sharks, Chinese ball valves are crap... that's maybe what is sold in Mexico? Buy some 'Spears' grey, sch. 80 PVC ball valves (slip or thread) and use them in Baja, if not the bronze US or Italy ones... I prefer the slip (glue on) ones as there is no chance of cracking the body from over-tightening onto a threaded fitting.

I worked for 10 years selling irrigation and plumbing (1980-82 and 1986-1994), and ball valves were always more expensive than gate valves (up to 2", anyways). But, I am speaking of just a couple bucks more.

Christy's Red Hot Blue Glue will work without primer... just fine. However, not all PVC cements are the same so there is an IAPMO standard that requires a primer be used when cemeting PVC pipe. Above, I gave you my personal experience on primer use. Christy's has more PVC resin in their cement than other brands so it works great on loose fittings as well (fills in voids of contact). I knew both Tom, and son John Christy and heard their presentation frequently about their glue not needing primer to work... Only use a primer if it is a spec job and an inspector will be checking, so the job will pass. Now, I grabbed a can from my truck to confirm that... and it indeed doesn't require a primer to work... just the IAPMO standard is stated.

As for curing times, it says leave pipe undisturbed for 10 minutes, the pipe can be hydro tested to 75 PSI (water) in one hour. Full joint strength should be reached in 24 hours. If you have 75 psi in Baja, that would be something! I need to get to my job now, so have a great day!




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[*] posted on 6-30-2008 at 10:05 AM


sooo...

"Only use a primer if it is a spec job and an inspector will be checking"....

so if no one is looking and you can "hide" it just glue:saint::saint:

a professional should primer EVERYTHING!!! imho




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[*] posted on 6-30-2008 at 12:05 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Packoderm
If all else fails, perhaps you could pump a slow stream of ocean water in and out of your spa and circulate a separate flow of water from the spa, through a series of black plastic spirals, and then back into the spa. The salt in the water would be "therapeutic." You could have a traditionally heated fresh water rinse down shower nearby. Why not?


Now that sounds like a good alternative! Sounds real interesting.

BTW does anyone know if this is a thread about hot tubs or one about irrigation systems? Shouldn't they be different threads?

Diane




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[*] posted on 6-30-2008 at 12:09 PM


there are pumps to pump saltwater from the sea but it would have to be pretty big as they are WAY UP in the air on that cliff...

and that water would be COLD!!!




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