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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Celia's Cafe at Burros Beach..and El Patron by the Mulege Lighthouse
CAFE REPORT - CELIA'S AT BURROS BEACH AND EL PATRON BY THE LIGHTHOUSE
Wednesday, November 11, 2009.
CELIA'S
Our Excuse for being Tardy
A couple days ago, an old friend, Celia (on right), had invited us to her new beach cafe operation, Bertha's at Burros Beach try her
new cuisine special on Wednesday nights..barbequed chicken. Both fans of anything pollo, we decided to do just that and marked it
down on the fridge door pad..."Wed night, Celia's at Burros." We planned to not go so early as usual, because it is still a trifle warm for us at six
o'clock..we would go at seven or so.
As it turned out, we got a little later start heading over to Bertha's at Burros Beach....
..our tardiness had something to do with testing martini olives - stuffed with pimento, garlic, almond, and bleu cheese - in Grey Goose on the rocks
to make the best 'Dirty Martini.' Tradition spoke volumes. 2 giant pimento-stuffed olives with just a stain of olive juice on the iced Goose won
hands down. Who would put cheese in a martini?? My Maltese pitbull wants to know.
While doing the olive test, we also had to walk down the beach to inspect neigbor Joe's progress on his storm-careened sloop, Springbok. He was sound
asleep in the shade of the hull...good progress, Joe. During the entire length of the beach, our companion dogs, The Maltese Bros., had to test each
successive beach dog's willingness to defend his territory. As I walked, the sounds of gulls above and barking below drowned out my favorite
sound...ice clicking in my glass.
So you can see that All This takes time...and that is our tardiness excuse.
Back on track....We drove from Coyote to Burros to find Celia's/Bertha's beachside cafe completely packed..
Celia had done a very good job of advertising. The parking areas were jammed with cars, but I managed to turn our large vehicle around without a
nudge or crunch. (note to pick up Jeep in Mulege as soon as I remember which taller has it.) All of Celia's tables, both inside and outside, were
crammed with folks munching and wiping sauce off thier chins. The place will become very popular. Celia saw us and said to wait a sec, she'd steal a
neighbor's patio set.. but we thought we'd try again next Wednesday...a little earlier this time with fewer olives! We'll come back soon, Celia, we
promise...hey, you're almost next door.
It really was a nice night for a drive, so off to Mulege we went...in search of a dining adventure.
I drove our scenic curvy coast road into town, the full moon shining almost too brightly off to the right...then my co-pilot pointed out I had left
the big flashlight on the dash and it was shining in my eyes. Smugness is just plain rude.
We cruise on into the hamlet of Mulege. Driving past cafes that we had eaten at countless times..all good. First to come into view was
Saul's La Palapa..but we had just had some shrimp c-cktails there the previous afternoon..
..it was deliciously cool and tasty..
.
SAUL'S LA PALAPA
....great place and Saul IS a real gentleman, but we need something different tonight. Serinadad turnoff on the right, but I know Wednesday night is
not our night for their combo Mexican plates, so we putt on into Mulege.
We waved to Dimas and his charming wife at his taco stand at the downtown square...a quick thought of Tacos?...but again we had just finished off some
shrimp tacos there the other day. Good Job, Dimas! Muy bueno as always.
.
.
Driving past El Candil my co-pilot said No Way. We had eaten there on her first night in Mulege. Unfortunately, she had tripped and fell on an
uncovered trench in the cafe floor and sprained her ankle..bummer, eh? Her low opinion of the fish dinner may have been a little
biased after that experience. She is still a mite PO'ed. as she had to stay off the foot and her ankle had to remain bandaged for
about a week. I mentioned the floor defect to Omar and hopefully it will be corrected soon before more injuries occur.
.
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Suddenly I thought..Hey, great food, great proprietor, great ocean view, shrimp boats at anchor, a lighthouse, and great ambiance?....sounds
like old Baja, right? 
You guessed it..We will be eating at El Patron...the Old Almeja out on the north river road across from the lighthouse and harbor
master.
We headed out on the river road, passing Antonio and Lorena's Danny's carnitas cafe..which everybody knows is famous for Saturday
brunches of delicious pork carnitas and my favorite..rancheros soup.
And yes, we had been there last Saturday! Let me just say...YUM.
.
.
But we on the scent now...and I forge ahead past Saul's Market, past Gringo's boat repair, past the detour to Loma Azul......what? past the
detour?..carumba!..we back up after coming to a dead end caused by the flooding of Jimena...bump up over and around a few blocks and find our way
throught the dark to come back down on the river road. Past some burning palm logs ..leftovers from the flood. Now past Pancho Villa cafe
and bar...to finally throw out the anchor at El Patron...Almeja...the site of many a great night for the last 30 years.
.
We are in luck, because there was only 2 other groups ahead of us..and we quickly had drinks and food in front of us...thanks to our host, Tim and his
lovely cook.
I ordered Almejas naturally...3 large scrumptuous and waistline deadly half-shell clams baked to perfection with a tangy cheese, spinach, and some
cognac. Pacifico or course. Co-pilot had broiled shrimp in ajo sauce. I tried to cavalier a couple, but was unsuccessful. She said they were
"divine and mine."
.
.
What a wonderful night with good old Baja amigos. Truly what it's all about. Bravo, El Patron!
.
We drove home with those thoughts to Coyote Bay. A gorgeous Baja Quarter Moon was shining in the dark sky. AND..it showed that it would hold
water...ergo; I should fish manana!
Ah..that Moon...reminded me of this description: The moon looked like a discarded toenail clipping submersed in a puddle of saliva on a black formica
countertop.
Well hey, so I had a little extra cognac. 
Buenas noches y buen apetito wherever you dine.
edit to time frame this post:
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
======================================================
UPDATE JAN 18, 2010!
And still more benefits to eating at Mulege's cafes...
At Danny's the other day.
While having some great carnitas, you can...
Be a quick goalie for a street soccer game. It was a fluke, but I managed to snap this pic and kickreturn the ball at the same time.
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And get your windows washed by the local CREAD crew.
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..walk across the street to see Manuel's grandson, who's anxious to help out in the store. Now that's a fine family I am honored to
know.
.
.
Plus you can do some handy veggie shopping....
.
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.
VIVA MULEGE!
.
[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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MULEGE MIRROR - CAMERA WALK
MULEGE TOUR
"The Estuary" .....It's easy to see from this angle why that river floods so easily during torrential rains in the mountains. The natural 'V'
of the Mulege valley makes for a deadly flash flood.
.
- MARCH 16, 2010
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Ice & cold beer on highway near Pemex. Good prices and convenient for your trip to the Bay.
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The old Palapa café. We fondly remember our old friend, Saul, and wish him well in La Paz.
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Poolside bar at Serinadad. Unfortunately closed at the time of this photo. Being a Mulege oldtimer, I can remember when there was
no pool bar. We didn't know how deprived we were!
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River boating scene. This is where the fishing boat action starts....and ends.
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'Tropical Cottages' at Orchid Park. Ah, Roberto...where forth art thou?
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The Rooftops of Mulege....seen from the highway bridge.
You could find yourself walking back into Time...
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Back on the main highway and in need of a car wash and great bbq chicken? Try Mario for the food...and his son for the wash.
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Let's take a ride through the village, okay?
Hang on, here we go.
Trying not to hit the arch again...
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I believe I can smell beer? Yes, I'm sure I can...very close.
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Here is a gentle slope down into the village. Slow down and watch for pedestrians.
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'Modelorama' Whenever I see this sign I think it's a movie theater.
We're headed past the downtown Pemex. Watch for the Stop sign ahead....Alto! As good a place as any to have an accident.
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..or park and explore for treasure and education. Like this tourist who's getting sign language lessons by Miguel at La Tienda.
Our Chinese Connection. Hola to another Victor. His father was another old amigo of mine....filling my propane tanks over the years.
I also recall finding the best prices on rum here. Ron Palmas...sheesh and ugh.
Just in case. Basic medical help on the left.....and save your soul on the right.
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Hungry? Let's drop into Antonio's and have some pork carnitas. Joining another old friend, Ricardo...fine fellow that he is.
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A lady's man, of course.
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Mulege is full of unique characters and you never know who or what you'll meet.
I met Sarah Palin. Had NO idea she could eat so much.
Francisco's Equipales Café is a great place for fine dining with an overhead view of the parade below.
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To end this little tour, I need to put in a plug for my old fishing buddy...Mateo. He can get you on the fish...the rest is up to you.
*To be continued in some fashion or another...
[Edited on 4-11-2014 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
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Pompano, Thanks for the photo tour of Mulege.
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willyAirstream
Super Nomad
Posts: 1786
Registered: 1-1-2010
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Thank You - THANK YOU
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bajabass
Super Nomad
Posts: 2016
Registered: 10-4-2006
Location: La Paz,BCS
Member Is Offline
Mood: Want to fish!!!
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Great little tour Pompano. Mulege is a very special place. You are lucky to call it home!
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5867
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
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Absolutely loved the Mulege tour. How is rebuilding along the river going?
It's great to see the town bouncing back!
Thanks Roger, Bob H
[Edited on 3-18-2010 by Bob H]
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
Registered: 11-26-2002
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Bob - i didn't take any pics for you.
the TOTAL devastation along the river, especially west end palapavilles/RV parks will blow your mind - noything like Juan - Jimena was another New
Orleans level. katrina II
i was astonished. buildings wiped out and flattened. all the rubble is there from those who just walked. lost everything.
you would not believe it.
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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Pompano
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Posts: 8194
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Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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SOME PHOTOS OF POST-JIMENA DEVASTATION
Sad images...
We all hope this never happens again...and that proper precautions can be taken. Dikes, diversion....whatever it takes.
[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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Hurricane Jimena
CONSTANTINE SCORES WITH JIMENA DAMAGE
I had put out an ad for someone to come and take away my storm-damaged boat barn. Lots of free building material to anyone that wanted to do the
clean-up.
(Jimena's high winds finally did it in after 40 years of surviving other hurricanes, downpours, clumsy drivers backing boats, trailers, and motorhomes
into it's walls, plus other forms of mayhem.)
Constantine, owner of one of Mulege's downtown tourist businesses, came to see what he could salvage. Congratulations, Constantine..and your wife.
They needed the material to reconstruct thier Mulege house roof..which had blown away in the storm.
Constantine was true to his word and returned twice to clean up the area very neatly.
Gracias, amigo. Done deal.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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bajabass
Super Nomad
Posts: 2016
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Location: La Paz,BCS
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It is REALLY nice when people do what they say they will do. Getting rarer and rarer up here!
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Muluge Bomberos - Fire Dept.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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TAKE THE MULEGE TOUR...
This place is worth another visit.
The Hacienda Hotel & Cafe. Very old, very unique.
Alfonso Cuesta, proprietor and gentleman of the old school.
Meeting some amigo-citizens...spending lots of pesos...
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..while shopping & driving around town..
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..buy some oysters....sigh...
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..which means another visit to the local ATM...deeper sigh
.
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We always need groceries. Among many other grocery stores, we frequent Saul's, and Manuel's, and Casa Yee, and Alba's, and.... the list goes on....
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Thurday thru Saturday is dinner time out at Ray's La Habana restaurant. GOOD.
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A local tv techie repairs a busted coax cable for me. Grrrracias, Pulpo/Octavio
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A guy's place. Yee's Hardware. I need some rope and cement, ...and take a turn on the forklift.
Need a taxi? Check the town square. Old No. 19..Nacho. Carumba..if that taxi ever talks, I'll be in deep yogurt.
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hmm...I may need to circle back to the ATM soon...
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Shop some Segundo stores for those special gifts that you just can't find.
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Don't forget to get the Jeep carb checked. Gracias, Polo.
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Marcos is an expert auto-electric mechanic. And today fixes my electric windows. Also did 2 boat trailer light assemblies for me. Been using Marcos
since the earth cooled.
Then take a moment to carefully arrange my workshop..
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Ah...Manuel. What can one say? More than an amigo, a compadre. But compadre.where is my missing pig's leg? The one you butchered for me
only had THREE.
Never mind, it's Xmas time, so here's an 'accurate' calculator for you...
...and thanks for helping me unload all that firewood!
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Now I'm hungry, so let's go across the street from Manuel's to Dany's Carnitas. Yummm...Hey, how you doing, Zulema?
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TO BE CONTINUED WHEN OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS.
[Edited on 4-11-2014 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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willyAirstream
Super Nomad
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yes, continue! Thanks for taking the hint amigo. Much appreciated!!
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Bob H
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Posts: 5867
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Location: San Diego
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Roger, I'm really enjoying this thread.... any images of El Candil? Really miss that place.
Bob H
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Cypress
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Pompano, Please continue! Any pics of Don Chano's?
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Still hungry..heading for Dimas' Taco
For a real quick treat, try Dimas at the Taquitos Mulege stand at the square. He usually has shrimp and fish
tacos. Very good fast food.
The proper way to eat a taco is...get it in your mouth.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bob H
Roger, I'm really enjoying this thread.... any images of El Candil? Really miss that place.
Bob H |
Bob..I have lots of Candil photos. Here's a couple old ones of a friend walking outside the place, a route he
took almost every day for many years.
Cypress...I have some photos of that place, too..and will try manana to put them here. Ciao.
[Edited on 4-11-2014 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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MULEGE BUSINESSES & SIGHTS
Glass pane shop. Windows, ventanas. I had good luck here replacing many broken window panes from Jimena last season.
Enter town and it's across from Mely's a bit on the left side. Good rates and fast service.
Here's one of the pure water stores in Mulege. A brisk business, naturally. Go on Thursday's for half-price. Water....a
product everyone uses in quantity. I've heard that some hardy types even drink it straight.
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Under the bridge you can find Mulege's Segundo tiendas..second-hand stores. Let me know if you come across old my old sheepskin coat...
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And right next to Segundo is this neat crafts display. I bought Pancho Villa's mummified head here. And also another from when he was a baby. Truly
rare finds!
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Yummm...! Tis the season for strawberries. Who's got bananas, ice cream, caramel, and a cherry?...drool...
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And..golf? Yes, Mulege's dirty little secret. We have a golf course..sigh.
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Many years ago, I paid a small fortune for a local chart with all the favorite pango fishing holes marked on it..from my amigo, Xavier.
He has quite the sense of humor. I should have figured that grouper don't like mountaintops.
Hah..revenge is best served cold....I KNOW where you live, hombre.
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More to come...we ain't done yet, folks. Mulege is full of stories. You might be next..
.
[Edited on 4-11-2014 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
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Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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Reading this thread is pure entertainment. The recent Mulege photos have me pining for a return trip. Got one question, however. That photo of you
guys at the Serenidad pool bar... was that taken at like 10am Sunday while everyone was at church? No one else in sight.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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(Howard, the Serinadad pool is definetely unoccuppied in the earlier hours of a winter morning..brrrr.)
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A Nomad has/had this place for sale. One we seldom hear from anymore. Hello amigo, are you lurking?
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You can get your fishing license laminated at the paper store..near the grocery store behind fire station..on the one-way that goes past the
laundomat.
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School's Out!
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These are..without a doubt..some of the BEST corn tortillas in town. Norma's Finest Kind.
But I am sworn to never reveal the location.
Okay, you talked me into it. Find them in this cooler at Saul's Market.
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[Edited on 4-11-2014 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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