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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Camacho's honor system
If nobody is around at this entry shack, just pick a spot and set up camp. If you have to, ask for and look up the owner.
The only ones there when we passed through were these 2 quail. Ahh...got a grill?..got bacon? A plus to primitive camping with a tote bin, cracker
crumbs, stick, and rope.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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As you are leaving Camacho's...
Feel free to use the facility.
edit: I much prefer the afternoon sombre.
[Edited on 5-29-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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SAN LUCAS RV PARK AND ANCHORAGE
The San Lucas RV Park is right next door ..this is the waterfront scene from Camacho's.
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A very short drive around and there you are.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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RV Park fish cleaning station.
This may be thee most-used yellowtail cleaning table in Baja Sur. A quick run out to make a few baits at a local hotspot called The Haystack..or
wherever your favorite hole may be for big-eyes or macks. Than a short run NNE of San Marcos and find those jurel.
Bait is not mandatory though, lots of tails are caught on iron, trolled diving lures, and dynamite if you get lucky at poker with the miners. (Insert
historical note here: Years ago, the gypsum miners would trade dynamite for favors at the local chicken club in Sta. Rosalia. Hence the expression
..a bang...got started.)
Cabrilla, dorado, marlin, sailfish, wahoo, gold-spotted bass, grouper, red snapper, triggerfish, roosters, no walleyes, and assorted finny critters
are caught in these waters. Just not all at the same time. Best time for dorado is about to start pretty soon now...
Here's a successful fisherman cleaning tonight's dinner...a fine-eating filet de jurel.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Lots of long-term campers here.
San Lucas becomes a long stay for some who seek good fishing and the comraderie of a small RV park on the Cortez. Life is good. What could be
better?
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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"Build it and they shall come."
On the west side of San Lucas Cove is a relatively new housing development...hey, anything built since the missions are new to me. I have not taken
the time to look this place over yet, so we will check it out when we get back on the highway.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Paula
Super Nomad
Posts: 2219
Registered: 1-5-2006
Location: Loreto
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This has been an amazing trip report, Roger! And you still have a few more miles to go--what lies in store for the last installments?
And when will you be publishing your book of Baja lore and legends? It should be a good one!
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Packoderm
Super Nomad
Posts: 2116
Registered: 11-7-2002
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Nice photo essay with the candidates twist. They deserve a break from the heavy grind of the campaign circuit.
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
Registered: 11-26-2002
Location: Bat Cave
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Mood: Sling time!
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great report Roger!
nov 2001 i stayed 3 nites and days at Camachos just before arriving at serenidad with my 34 ft coachmen bomb of an RV! what a great place!
now that i have sold my trailer i am jazzed to find another one next spring and trailer it south for another one way drop off road adventure. just
have to figure out where it wants to "rest".
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Last look at San Lucas RV Park...
My Texas passenger is grumbling about getting closer to a margarita, so we are breaking camp at the San Lucas cove.
These Secret Service bodygaurds are keeping a watchful eye on our passenger, who has donned a cap, sunglasses, and false beard.
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p.s. the squid fleet is working nights off San Marcos. These are just a couple pangas used by nearby calamari pangueros.
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Adios, San Lucas camp. Buene suerte with the fishing!
[Edited on 5-29-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Cut and Run
Okay, a new day dawns and we need to break camp.. and hustle to make up for delays and detours. Some of us had never expected to stay so long in
un-planned areas, but the search for a better fish-catching Way, Method, and Dividend had swayed us. Funny, being a fisherman and knowing the history
of this fish-killing mecca, I knew those things were around there somewhere.......?
As we left San Lucas RV Park before it was fully awake, our Texan dissaproved, saying that, if he were still driving,.. to 'cut and
run' was not his way of doing things. Said we really should have got the truth from those close-mouthed fishermen.
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We start out on Highway 1 again, heading south for Mulege, a short few miles...sure....like our folks used to tell us kids on those long-ago road
trips..."It's just over the next hill."
..........................
ON THE ROAD AGAIN.
The first scene we see when pulling out onto the Baja Road
again is the Army base at San Lucas Cove.
(Army saying: If it moves, salute it; if it doesn't move, pick it up; if you can't pick it up, paint it.)
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The young soldiers barracked here get a VERY strenuous workout on this obstacle course adjacent to the highway. Thanks to their training, they will
be in good shape after completing their military tour.
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This 'getting into shape' gives me a thought. We can build a course like this as the entrance to the Jungla! 
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I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Saw these on the road.....
I have not been in to look these new (to me) developments over yet, but have heard good things about this newest addition to the San Lucas area. What
could be better than to be that close to good fishing! Will have to stop back here on the next tour of duty.
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I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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"Are you ready for a Change in Direction?"
We barely get up to highway speed when we come upon a sign: MAGDALENA 15KM....soooo....what say you, crew?
"SI COMO NO!" the gals shout. "Well heck, no time like the present." W says, "Like old Socrateaser once said..'Procrastination is the thief of
time."
So we are off the pavement again....and on
The Road to Adventure...MAGDALENA.
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Winding up way up into the low mountain valleys we chance upon this flock of grazing goats...and chivatos. The hills are lush and quail are
everywhere. ( I need to return with bread crumbs and bacon strips!)
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As you come off the high trail you see the beautiful little hamlet of Magdalena spread out below. It is a very peaceful place and we take a lazy tour
around. First the ornate cemetary where we respectfully walk.
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Then we visit the reason Magdalena people are so happy...the special water source that makes their crops grow so well. They are
proud of this water they say is so much better than any other. Nothing better than Magdalena garlic!
I remember a certain trip I took to Magdalena back around 1984 or so. I went with my Coyote Bay neighbor, Jake, a retired LA fireman and long-time
Baja resident. We were quail hunting first and then drove down into Magdalena to visit an old hombre whom I had met before..Chuey Meza. Chuey was
pretty old then, but his mother was really old..about 90, I believe. Chuey raised garlic and onions, like most others in the village. Somewhere I
have an old photo showing his 2 workers sitting in the shade of a palm outside his home...braiding garlic ropes. And his mother sitting on the table
inside braiding yet more ropes. It was one of the most rural scenes I can remember from Baja...and reminded me of my own roots up north.
The other photo I hope to find is of Chuey's yard...it held the biggest poinsetta bush/tree I have ever seen..or will see. The plant had to be thirty
feet across and twenty feet high. Jake took some cuttings home and did quite well with them over the coming years.
Magdalena is well-known for it's great veggies, but the king here is garlic...ajo.
Here Felipa picks this ajo farmer's pocket while he is working in his field. W says, 'That's okay, it has always been that way with farmers. Kinda
like a tradition, y'know?'
[Edited on 5-30-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
Member Is Offline
Mood: undecided
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Pompano,  Thanks! Keep the photos and the humor coming.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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"A Squid in Every Pot" - SAN BRUNO
Coming back to the blacktop, I turn to the right....W leans forward and says, "Amigo, that there's a darn good direction you just picked." I sigh,
knowing the next stop will be to the left.
SAN BRUNO
See?
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San Bruno is just a good lope south of San Lucas, not to be confused with the historical San Bruno of mission fame. That San Bruno, just north of
Loreto was built around 1683 and deserted by 1685. A short run for the Jesuits.
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A nice paved entry into this seaside town. I notice the two memory markers marking some earlier trajedy.
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San Bruno is located just across from San Marcos Island and the gypsum mine. The straits between are sometimes full of Humboldt squid...and the fleet
of pangueros hunting them from dusk to dawn. Driving past this scene at night, the waters are sparkling with hundreds of boat lanterns.
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A mini-housing boom has started here in the last few years...as with most of the Baja shoreline. We drive by some nice homes being constructed..
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Then come to Main Street.
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Some firetrees in full flame.
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We find ourselves next to the fishing co-op. W comments...'Fishermen should not be boozers.'
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This brings us to an old familiar haunt from the early 70's. We used to trailer a 16' Lund aluminum boat of mine up here and launch it under those
palms in the distance. Back then we had to go through an eldely senora's yard to find the best launch site on some flat rocks and hard sand. We
always paid her 5 dollars in pesos and she was very glad to see us return. Old times. The white sea bass were here then..and big ones.
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Of course it all different now...modernized.  Holy tamales, is that an
electric LIGHT POLE!
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Big cement ramp...ah, that makes it so much easier on my prop!
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Lots of glorious BOATS! Bravo!..compadres on boats.
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Some are divers....
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Some are netters..
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There is even a nice stretch of beach waiting for your enjoyment.
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"NO CHILD LEFT BEHIND"
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Ah, what could be better than a couple of youngsters beachcombing. What treasures they will find in their lives. Hey, can I come along?
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Time to leave, boys...got business down the road. We grab a couple cold ones at this highway tienda and are back on the stump...southward, ever
southward, mateys.
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As we leave, I notice the old, old hacienda over there. It was a hundred years old when I first saw it..and goes back to some French-funded sugar
cane plantation days between San Bruno and Pta. Chivato. I believe it is ejido headquarters now. We used to browse around the old irrigation
aquaducts the early French put in...sugar cane, wheat, olives, vineyards........but that's another story for another day.
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HEAD 'EM UP! MOVE 'EM OUT!....keep them elephants/donkeys rollin, rollin, rollin.....
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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"IT'S THE ECON...FISHING, STUPID."
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SAN MARCOS ISLAND MEMORY DETOUR
..for the good times.
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A name synonymous with all these: islanders, fishing, gypsum, fishing, diving, squid, bent propshafts, and more fishing.
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1974 photo of Gypsum mine and San Marcos village. Jack Weyerhauser, Lois Black, JW Black (Blackjack) in cowboy hat.
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'We often went boat-camping for a couple weeks on the Pompano, towing an 18' Alumacraft chase boat behind us. Sometimes we would go to Tortuga first
to dive and fish large fish. But Tortuga has no good anchorage worth losing your Danforth over, so we would motor over to San Marcos
for the nights. If we felt like it, we just floated out there at night, letting a gentle current glide us around the island. Those were magic
moments, with glowing porpoise circling us, whale noises, odd splashing...starry skies and moonlit beaches. The stuff of Baja.
On one occasion, however, while I was over the side looking for something to spear for dinner, my first mate had some fun running the boat forward,
then backward.. re-setting the Pompano's bow anchor...while the chase-boat's towline was floating fast astern. I won't bore you with all that went
wrong with that manuever..except to say that the Pompano was now 'Out of Service' until I could make some repairs.
No choice except to tow the disabled larger cruiser with the chase-boat to the village machine shop at San Marcos on the island. I knew there was a
welder there, plus... 'Hell's bells, it will be fun, sweetheart.....don't feel so bad.' I recall my teeth hurt from the grinding.
Well, it all worked out beautifully. Alone in the Alumacraft, I towed the Pompano a few miles to the gypsum village while First Mate was doing some
chores in the cabin. It was a calm sea and I brought the boats into the anchorage of the little town..and quickly got all anchored and secure. It
was now getting close to dusk, too late to go look up the mechanic/welder. Then the cabin door opened ..the First Mate was carrying a tray with big
prime rib sandwiches and tall bloody marys. Hey, the day was looking better by the minute.
Manana I will find the mechanic...and maybe we will take a the scenic tour of the village. Meet some folks, do a little shopping at the little
grocery store, whatever trips our trigger.
We stayed at that anchorage for 5 days...the mechanic finished the repairs in 2.
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North end of the island. This is a good landmark during the day and a welcome light at night. Also a good spot to have lunch and try some casting.
That island behind in the distance is Tortuga.
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A lot..a whole lot..of serious yellowtail fisherman yearn to come try their skill on good-sized jurel at San Marcos...and most do sooner or later.
Persistence pays off..even for this one.
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If you do get to the Island...here is a good place to start fishing. This is the north end of San Marcos..the seal rocks are a good waypoint. Try
live bait or jig 'em, it's all good.
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Sails and marlin come by when the water warms...usually May through Oct is good for these big guys. Releasing is the rule of the day on billfish..as
was this one right after the photo.
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Some great marine life on these rocks at San Marcos...and sometimes they get your fish.
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Other marine life that may take your fish..and give you a thrill! These are Orca photos sent to me by a whale enthusiast amigo living in San Lucas
Cove. They were taken just off the seal rocks...their prey. Gracias, Esteban.
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A mite close..
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Here's a good photo of that lagoon shown on the first photo..the map. The entrance.
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Looking down into the hidden lagoon from above.
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Just outside the entrance is/was a great spot to dive and get some pics. A deep, deep hole that was full of...
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Well, that's it for walking down memory lane near San Marcos. Fond memories = Baja Feeling.
Time to get back to our passengers ...who may have fallen asleep by now. 
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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AEROPUERTO RE-OPENING SOON.
slogan: "MOVING OUR PICKUP FORWARD"
Just south a couple miles from San Bruno is the turnoff for the Aeropuerto..which was originally laid out in the late 70's. My old Baja flying buddy,
Dusty, and I landed his 180 taildragger here a few times back then. Things have changed considerably since.
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I pulled up to the airport terminal and a gaurd walked out. We yakked for a bit, he asked me for a cigarette, but I quit over 25 years ago, so I was
no help there. He told me the airport would be open for commercial traffic within 20 days..then he smiled.
Well... I will believe that when I see it. Oh, si. International
flights from Guaymas, he said. Big planes.
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As we drove in we saw lots of work..
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...new asphalt being laid...and lengthening of the runway..
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Hmmmm...
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OK, ok...I believe it..progress has indeed come to Baja. This ain't Kansas any more, Toto.
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[Edited on 5-31-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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"A KINDER GENTLER..VILLAGE"
That pretty much describes this wide spot on the highway. Usually just a blur, but known to many as the place where you turn for Punta Chivato.
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I love this old policia cruiser parked next to the Chivato trail. It just HAS to slow down one or two speeders..
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I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8813
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
Member Is Offline
Mood: Full Time Residents
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what a trip...thanks roger
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ELINVESTIG8R
Select Nomad
Posts: 15882
Registered: 11-20-2007
Location: Southern California
Member Is Offline
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Keep those words of wit and photos coming my Brother. I love it. I see a coffee table book in your future.
"The Pompano Chronicles”
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