David K
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To The Top of Baja by Greg Niemann (and more)
The new Baja Bound Bulletin was just posted and includes a really nice article about the first climbers of El Picacho del Diablo, Baja's highest peak.
https://www.bajabound.com/bajaadventures/bajafever/to_the_to...
In addition, my 2019 article about the painted cave of San Borjitas was included in the bulletin: https://www.bajabound.com/bajaadventures/bajatravel/painted_...
PLUS, two other articles and the announcement of the Crossing South Festival on Aug. 24 at Liberty Station, San Diego...
LOOK: JULY 2024 BULLETIN
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Maderita
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Thanks for posting David.
Interesting story on the history of early ascents of Picacho del Diablo. Not to diminish the accomplishments of those pioneers who ventured into the
unknown, with little chance of rescue, but any strong and capable "hiker" can ascend the mountain. For anyone who wishes to climb the mountain and is
physically fit, do not be discouraged by that article.
Contrary to the statement, "...it is considered a highly challenging climb and should only be attempted by experienced climbers.", the standard route
is a non-technical Class 3 scramble. Class 3 or "third class" means no rope is necessary, the use of hands is required in places, and there may be a
degree of "exposure" (falling in some places could result in injury or death). The leader might carry a rope if leading for a timid partner or is
concerned about getting off route. Staying on the standard route, I can't think of a place where one could fall when the route is dry. I do recommend
approach shoes with "sticky rubber" as climbers call it. Winter conditions with snow and ice is another matter.
The author provided a quote, "...truly one of the finest and most challenging mountains on the North American continent (south of Canada)." That is
preposterous. There are hundreds of peaks which are more challenging. The chief difficulty of Picacho del Diablo is the long and arduous approach. In
this century, trails have been improved, routes marked, and guides are taking groups of novices almost every weekend during spring through fall
seasons.
There are several eco-tourism guides in northern BC. One guide, Sofia Bautista, has made well over 100 trips to the summit. https://www.facebook.com/simaoutdoorsmx
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mtgoat666
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It is certainly a grind of a hike. It is class 4 scramble. For those wanting an easier hike, blue bottle is a good peak to do.
Diablo is a great hike and scramble. Used to be you could have the mountain to yourself. But now a popular area. Avoid the weekends, best on weekdays
and early or late season if you want solitude.
The rangers at the gate are funny about non-guided climbers they dont know. They seem to want all “new visitors to hire guides.
[Edited on 7-21-2024 by mtgoat666]
Woke!
“...ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country.” “My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America
will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man.”
Prefered gender pronoun: the royal we
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David K
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For those who didn't know, Greg Niemann is the author of several books including: Baja Fever, Baja Legends, and the soon to be published, Beyond Baja
Legends. He also is a Baja Nomad member, 'GregN'.
Last September at the Baja Expo in San Diego, with Graham Mackintosh in the center and me, in my Slow Baja shirt:
More at the 2023 Baja Expo: https://vivabaja.com/2023-baja-expo/
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PaulW
Ultra Nomad
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The article by Niemann is a good summary noting much of the history of the Diablo climb.
Of all the reports I have read, the climb from the west is easier and shorter than from the east. Climbing season is spring after snow melts or fall
before snowfall.
Solo climbs are frequent and without issues for either the west or east approach.
This year access to the entrance to Providencia is now an easy drive from Diablo Lake. The route up Providencia is at least class 5 which means ropes
and hardware. Solo would be unwise.
The east access most common route is Diablo canyon approached from Diablo Lake via Rancho Santa Clara. The route up the canyon starts with a pendulum
up from the pond to a ledge and is reasonably easy but might require a couple of tries. The pendulum is followed by a class 5 friction climb up about
10 to 15’ where the old ladder is missing. For descending that pitch a rope will be required. After that the rest of the climb is class 3 by
following the numerous “Ducks”. Near the summit it becomes difficult class 3 depending on the route selection. Diablo pure water is plentiful
after cattle access is blocked by the cliffs.
Access west of Santa Clara Is through two private ranchos and payment is required.
Climbers wanting more resource info can contact me directly by giving me your email address.
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David K
Honored Nomad
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The story of Desert Rat's (Ron's) 2014 climb attempt (from the east) and being found by Graham (his role model) on accident on the observatory road,
is a pretty good Baja Nomad read: https://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=73798
In 2018, Desert Rat posted this to help hikers get there:
Reaching Diablo Canyon trail-head:
Co-ordinates to Diablo Canyon trail-head starting at Jose's store/shack following the old "Zoo" road from El Dorado.
31 04.136-115 14.977---Jose's store
31 05.285-115 15.863---Half buried tire marking left turn for Ranch
31 04.796-115 17.168---Santa Clara Ranch-Owner, Senor Ignacio
31 04.434-115 20.776---Veer left for Diablo trail-head
31 04.461-115 21.922---Stop. You are now at trail-head
You will find two or three trails that should lead you gradually to the right and over to the short drop down an embankment which will put you onto
the creek bed. The fall is still there but depending on the rainfall its size will vary. Before you reach the falls, you will encounter several nice
swimming holes. Enjoy the hike up the creek.
Some nice phiotos and a video from HeyMulegeScott:
https://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=89988
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4x4abc
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31 04.434-115 20.776---Veer left for Diablo trail-head
that would take you to Cañada el Diablito
Harald Pietschmann
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