DianaT
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Not Baja, but Mata Ortiz and Batopilas
This quick trip was not to Baja, but some nomads have visited and expressed interest in northern Mexico, especially Batopilas. Thus, I thought I
would report on our trip. We were some what rushed this time, but we accomplished our two major goals---buy more pottery at Mata Ortiz, and visit
Batopilas. Last time we were in Creel, we did not make Batopilas and were determined to do so this time.
For those of you not familiar with Mata Ortiz, it is a small village in Chihuahua where some of the most beautiful pottery is made---no wheel---all
hand formed. The pottery tradition of the ancient Paquime people was revived by one man, Juan Quezada. Some of his pots now sell for thousands of
dollars. Now there are about 400 potters---some excellent, some very good and some mediocre. Then again I would like to see what I could make.
The pottery can be bought in the US, but not only is it more expensive, it is more fun to visit the village. The village, however, is changing. The
road to the village is now paved---beautiful road so more tour busses are coming from Tucson. Lots of photos can be seen on our webshots, http://community.webshots.com/user/jdtrotter in albums marked 2005 Mata Ortiz 2005 Batopilas and 2005 Creel. There are also more photos of
Mata Ortiz, and the Creel area in the album, Mexico 2005, Part one.
This is the village
Here are two up and coming potters and their home. They were students of Juan Quezada
Tommy got to meet their dogs, Negro and Paloma--Maggie, our little dog had to stay in the truck. She doesn't like other dogs.
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
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DianaT
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We did not stay in Mata Ortiz as we knew of a hotel in Nueva Casas Grandes that would accept our dogs. It was not a problem last time as we had our
small trailer. Now after inquiring while in Mata Ortiz, the senora at the Adobe Inn said dogs were no problem. ---so maybe next time.
We crossed the border at the small town of Naco, south of Bisbee, Arizona. It is very easy to get car papers there. In February 2005, Highway 2 was
in terrible shape, but the potholes have been filled. Very pretty drive through the mountains and into the wide-open desert spaces with the big sky.
The attached pictures are from the February trip. During our last trip, we also visited the Casas Grandes ruins, and the Mormon settlement in
Colonia Juaraz near Mata Ortiz.
Highway Two before the potholes were filled
Mormon Temple in Colonia Juaraz
Ruins at Casas Grandes
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
[Edited on 1-11-2006 by jdtrotter]
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DianaT
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Very interesting places to visit. Next time, we also want to go out to the caves --- about 35 miles on dirt road. While the desert is not as unique
as the Baja Desert, it is pretty, especially as you drive into the foothills.
If you love fine pottery, Mata Ortiz is a must. Take your own bubble wrap and cash---there is no bank in town and no visa accepted ?yet. However,
the gallery run by Oscar will accept a personal check----that meant we spent more money than we intended, as usual. With lots of bubble wrap,
rubbermaid containers and dirty clothes, the pottery we bought survived the road to Batopilas. Can?t wait to go back -- saving my money for more
pottery.
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
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DianaT
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It is not a bad drive from Mata Ortiz to Creel, unless you do like we did this time---the bad travel day. Last time we just followed the map and used
the free road through Buenaventura, down to the main road out of Chihuahua and then to Creel---about 5 hours---some mountains, but a beautiful drive.
But, they are building lots of new roads in the area---not on ANY map yet. We reached a new fork in the road and should have stayed on the free road
to the right---instead, we thought it would be about the same going left---WRONG.
Finally we found a road back to Buenaventura. John claims it was a two hundred mile triangular mistake---he does exaggerate. Then we saw another new
highway heading south toward a city on the map that would connect us with the main highway out of Chihuahua. Off we went. After a few miles, there
was major construction---no problem we thought. But after several miles of dirt detours we realized that no one else was traveling this road except
the highway builders and their trucks. We stopped and asked---the highway was just being built. No wonder the workers kept looking at us like we
were crazy. Around we turned---another major delay. Would not have been so bad, except since we had our dogs, we wanted to arrive at Creel early
enough to find a place that would accept the pups. It was not the best moods of the trip---we tried to avoid the blame game, but it kept slipping
out.
Creel and the areas around there are wonderful---but on this trip, Batopilas was the goal. We stayed in one of the cabins of the ex-KOA camp. They
really hesitated at accepting the dogs, but in the end, they did. We tipped the maid well, and we were careful to use our dog hair removing brush to
get all dog hair cleaned up. We knew we would be returning after Batopilas---besides, we don?t want to ruin it for future dog owners.
The cabin, and scraping ice off the windshield in the morning.
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DianaT
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From the icy Pine Forest of Creel to the tropical desert of Batopilas is a 140 kilometers trip. It took us over 4 hours. The last 65 kilometers
traverse a switchback dirt road down to the canyon bottom. Some of the road is great, and part of it is very narrow rock hanging over the edge of the
cliff--- the part where you hope you don?t find a vehicle headed up the road. Around kilometer 28 is the worst. We kept it slow, especially around
the blind switchbacks --- someone has to drive slowly and some of the locals just speed along. The closest we came to an accident was a blind curve
around which a wild police truck came screaming. Then they stopped to ask us if we had seen more police in the police house at the top. A Mexican
jail was going to look good to the young man hanging on for dear life while being tossed around in the back of the truck. We left Batopilas early on
Sunday morning to minimize the chances of traffic.
Part of the road
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
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DianaT
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Batopilas is a small, extremely tidy town. They have major litter laws. We stayed at Juanita?s hotel---a very charming place. The rooms surround
the courtyard with a view of the river. Juanita is very hospitable. At first she did not want to accept the dogs ?she has been burned with lots of
dog hair left behind. But we looked old, tired, and pathetic---all of which was true, so she accepted us. We told her we would recommend her place.
Again, we were very careful to leave no dog hair behind. Be sure to discuss hot water with Juanita. We took cold showers and fifteen minutes later,
Juanita came to tell us she was turning on the hot water. Also, we were still on Central time, and Batopilas is on Mountain Time.
Juanita's
Juanita saying good-bye
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
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DianaT
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The road to the lost mission at Satavo is narrow, but OK. It is a very small village. We were greeted by a woman carrying the youngest of her six
children, and a cigarette hanging out of mouth. Our dogs on leashes fascinated them. She offered to find the man with the keys to the church, but it
was too hot to leave the dogs in the truck, so we just peaked inside.
There was so much more that could have been done, but we were time restricted this time.
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DianaT
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Leaving Batopilas on a Sunday morning is interesting. The town is awakened by music from the church broadcast over loud speakers. When we drove by
the church, the priest, looking frustrated, was pacing in front of an empty church. It did not appear the people were responding to the call to
worship.
We arrived back in Creel and it was not just Sunday, but Independence Day. On the way to Creel, people just appeared on the highway from the steep
trails along the canyons. They were headed for town. There were so many photo opportunities, but I just can?t put a camera in someone?s face. I
only take pictures from a distance, or under another guise.
This was taken at a distance in the crowded Plaza of Creel
There was a motocross competition going on at the campground. It was a lot of fun to watch.
Baja is great, and so is the rest of Mexico.
Here is a cerveza to end the day.
Happy trails to you---more photos are on webshots.
Diane
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
[Edited on 11-29-2005 by jdtrotter]
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jerry
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great report very inlightning have a good one jerry
jerry and judi
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bajalou
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Thanks for the great report
No Bad Days
\"Never argue with an idiot. People watching may not be able to tell the difference\"
\"The trouble with doing nothing is - how do I know when I\'m done?\"
Nomad Baja Interactive map
And in the San Felipe area - check out Valle Chico area |
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Neal Johns
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Great report! I have been to these places several times but doubt if I could have captured the spirit of the places as well as you did in photos and
words on this post.
My motto:
Never let a Dragon pass by without pulling its tail!
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BAJACAT
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very interesting JD have you ever been in Las Barrancas del Cobre in Chiuahua?
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DianaT
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Thank you all for your kind words. It was a short, but great trip.
Bajacat,
Batopilas is at the bottom of one of the many canyons that makes up what is often referred to as just Copper Canyon. I am not sure as to what you are
referring? We just love that area
Diane
[Edited on 12-8-2005 by jdtrotter]
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BAJACAT
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Copper canyon
| Quote: | Originally posted by jdtrotter
Thank you all for your kind words. It was a short, but great trip.
Bajacat,
Batopilas is at the bottom of one of the many canyons that makes up what is often referred to as just Copper Canyon.
Diane
[Edited on 12-8-2005 by jdtrotter] |
Yes thats exactly wath im talking about , I saw a tv show name west coast shoppers, where Jessy James makes this trip in a motorcycle and the views of
copper canyon where unbelivable and tha train ride doesn't fall short ither..Thanks for the photos, that just proves that there is more to Mexico than
BAJA., but there is only one place like BAJA>>>>
[Edited on 12-14-2005 by BAJACAT]
BAJA IS WHAT YOU WANTED TO BE, FUN,DANGEROUS,INCREDIBLE, REMOTE, EXOTIC..JUST GO AND HAVE FUN.....
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DianaT
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We took the train many years ago and it is one that you will never forget---fantastic.
Diane
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