Royosbaja
Newbie
Posts: 24
Registered: 12-20-2005
Location: Santa Maria CA, PC Baja Sur
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Small engine survival
When leaving small gasoline engines for extended periods of time, (up to 6 months), what have you found to be the best way to leave the gasoline?
I have heard several approaches to this issue:
1. Drain all the gas, run engine dry.
2. Leave gas in but add a fuel stablizer.
3. If fuel can be secured to the bowl, drain the bowl but add stablizer to the tank.
4, On and on...
Would it be any different if it was a 4-stroke, (generator), or a 2-stroke, (70 hp outboard), ?
Also, any experience on dealing with small carbs associated with say a 5.5 hp honda, that has sat for long periods of time? I know the replace the
carb option already.....
Several postings from google but was looking for "real" life experience, especially in the extremes of Baja.
Thanks for any and all input.
Saludos
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Ken Bondy
Ultra Nomad
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Registered: 12-13-2002
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Mood: Mellow
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I am somewhat embarassed to admit this but I kept a small Honda generator in a locker at Punta San Francisquito for ten years, never drained anything,
never added anything to the gas, never intentionally ran the engine dry, never did anything even resembling maintenance. Also never had the slightest
problem with it, 90% of the time it lit off on the first pull, rarely had to pull it a second time. Ended up giving it to Savino.
++Ken++
PS Forgot to add that it often went 4-6 months between uses, particularly in the winter.
[Edited on 12-25-2005 by Ken Bondy]
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Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8813
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
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...me too...I just leave the tank full...start it up later and go....
sorry no extra work involved...
Newer gas mixes last much longer.
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Diver
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4729
Registered: 11-15-2004
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My Honda generator sat for three years with some gas in the tank and the needle valve stuck, therefore wouldn't start. Most people just run the tank
dry and that's all. I want my emergency generator to start any time so I add a little stabilizer to the last tank and then run it dry. Probably
overkill but it always runs great after it's set for a while.
My outboards just get run dry and put away, been doing it that way for 30 years with no problems. I do usually dump the outboard and lawn mower gas at
the end of the season to avoid the temptation to use it in the spring.
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JZ
Select Nomad
Posts: 10581
Registered: 10-3-2003
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That's the Christmas/Baja spirit Hose. Continue to make a buck and forget helping others on this board! Bravo!
[Edited on 12-26-2005 by JZ]
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turtleandtoad
Senior Nomad
Posts: 730
Registered: 1-20-2005
Location: Wherever I park. See sig for current location.
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Mood: Good if fishing
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Letting gas evaporate in the carb can cause floats to stick and jets to clog, commonly called "Varnishing". Two stroke engines should be run dry
while injecting (fogging) with a layup spray designed for that (or use Marvel Mystery Oil). This ensures that the bearings and reed valves are lubed.
Otherwise you may find the engine seized up in a couple of months.
Gas stabilizer will keep the gas usable for about 6 months, or you can just dump the tank into your vehicle and buy new later.
However, a lot of this depends on where and how you store the engine. If you live in an area with low humidity and/or store the engine in a climate
controlled enviroment you have a better chance of getting away with doing nothing.
I used to own a marine repair/small engine shop in Seattle and made a lot of money tearing down a lot of engines that weren't laid up corrently.
Mike & Robin; Full-Time RV\'ers
37\' Georgetown w/3 slides & 275 Watts of Solar Power
06 Taco TRD
www.turtleandtoad.com
I am here
To paraphrase Frank Lloyd Wright; I\'m all in favor of keeping dangerous weapons out of the hands of fools. Let\'s start with keyboards. --
Mike Dean |
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bajalou
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Running the engine dry does not get all the gasoline from the carb. Accelerator pump and many small passages will still have gas. It will dry and
gum up these areas. Use a stabilizer - and run after putting it in the tank so it's in the carb. Then run dry or not - You'll probably have a engine
that will run when you come back 4-6 months later.
No Bad Days
\"Never argue with an idiot. People watching may not be able to tell the difference\"
\"The trouble with doing nothing is - how do I know when I\'m done?\"
Nomad Baja Interactive map
And in the San Felipe area - check out Valle Chico area |
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Sharksbaja
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5814
Registered: 9-7-2004
Location: Newport, Mulege B.C.S.
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Goodresponses
I have seen engines like my Sears lawnmower sit year after year for months at a time. Starts instantly every season.
I have also seen engines, particularily 2 strokes, that have diaphragm or air bleed holes or jets that always seem to gum or stick or clog.
I remember the old Rochester, Carter & Holley carbs on cars that continually had varnish related performance problems. If it wasn't a clogged
float bowl jet it was a shrunkin gasket somewhere. Those old accelerator pumps were notorious for hiding crunks of crap and gas leakage by their
leather/plastic seal.
Small engine carbs have gotten better over the years but it seems to me the rule of thumb is : The smaller the carb, the more probs with non-use.
Gasoline is also of better quality generally. If you use inferior petroleum products the impurity level goes up. 2-strokes demand better lube
characteristics so good oil is necessary.
Turtle tells the truth.
Spraying silicone on neoprene and plastic parts when stored in a dry environment will extend their life. Use W-D 40
on metal and painted surfaces for wet weather storage.
I always found little time for non-use or storage prep.
I just hope it starts next season! Then I fix it if need be.
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TMW
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Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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On my motorcycles I would drain the tank and carb bowl on the 2 strokes. On the 4 strokes I drain the carb bowl and to the reserve level in the tank.
I must admit I have never seen a deposit in the carb on the 4 stroke after a long setting but have on the 2 strokes.
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