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Packoderm
Super Nomad
Posts: 2116
Registered: 11-7-2002
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Baja on the cheap
I have a question as to how a person can enjoy Baja while spending as little money as possible. Now before anybody condemns me for being a tightwad, I
would like to point out that, in the past, I have spent outrageous amounts of money on various vacations in Cabo, SF, and many places in between. My
quota for spreading the wealth has been more than fulfilled; believe me.
Now, on to what may be an interesting idea. I have about 3 weeks off starting new years. I have very, very little money, but the idea of trudging
through another semester without going to Baja is more than I can stand; I?ll just give up. I can bring a credit card and extra cash for unforeseen
things, but I will not use these options if I can avoid it. I don?t mind living like an average, or maybe even a poorer, native Mexican; in fact, I
kind of enjoy this kind of thing. Ok, I?m kind of thinking that my three and a half year old son and I can take Greyhound or drive to the border, and
then hop on ABC or some other bus to perhaps Loreto or somewhere like that. My wife will probably have to stay at home and work. I would like an
ultra-cheap place to chill for a while. I have basic camping supplies like small propane stove, blankets, canned food, instant coffee, and stuff like
that. The things I?ll buy are mostly tortillas, limes, some vegetables, and stuff like that. Hopefully, I won?t need to hunt buzzards this time.
I think maybe even a palapa cabana would be nice. (Compared to sleeping under the stars) I rented one at Requesion for 3 dollars per night before and
enjoyed it very much, but it would certainly be too remote without a car or truck this time. Camp Gecko was absolutely perfect for us last year, but I
don?t want the expense of driving this time.
I am beginning to think that the very cheapest route is via Green Tortoise. I average less that 50 dollars per night including food, but I think my
son might be too young for that, but I am not ruling it out if they will take my young son. He is just great, really.
If anybody out there wanted to enjoy Baja on a bottom dollar budget, what would you do? How are some of the oasis places like La Purisima or some of
the other, smaller oasis towns? I don?t really need to be by a beach if the scenery is nice. Are there Mexican families that have rooms for rent in
the smaller towns?
[Edited on 11-5-2003 by Packoderm]
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Stephanie Jackter
Senior Nomad
Posts: 566
Registered: 11-3-2002
Location: Arizona
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When you said "Baja" and "cheap" in the same sentence, I almost laughed.
But it sounds like you have some pretty well thought out strategies. Especially, if you're willing to go inland, it just might be doable. Wish I had
some pearls to add, but I really don't. I always spend waaaaay more than I plan to every time I go to Baja.
This would be the perfect question for David Eidell if he was around. Rumor had it you didn't want to have to pick up his lunch ticket, but he could
always tell you where to get the cheapest price on accomodations and a kilo of beans. Maybe there's another "codo on the board that can give you
some tips. - Stephanie
When the goin' gets tough, the wierd turn pro
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Ski Baja
Senior Nomad
Posts: 652
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: Rosarito Beach
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On the cheap
We once spent 2 weeks camping at Concepcion Bay and the only things we bought were tortillas and beer. It was an experiment. And it was easy. What
should we have tonight? Clams, oysters, scallops or do you have a preference for tonights fish ? Kinda like that.
What you would have to do is, go someplace where there is a Mexican family so they can watch Junior while you go shoot fish with your new
collapsable Hawaiin Sling and snorkeling gear. That is the cheapest and easiest way to stay in Baja. You will also be trading a lot of the fish you
shoot for the rest of the goodies that go with the meals.
You also might consider sharing expenses with me when I go down. I travel to most areas in South Baja including the mountains and beaches down
there. I am into remote areas and have a lot of friends down there everywhere.
My daughter learned how to snorkel in the Sea of Don Jimmy and she wasn't much older than that.
Check out http://groups.msn.com/TheBajasBestGuidesPhotoAlbum.
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Skeet/Loreto
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4709
Registered: 9-2-2003
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Pacoderm.: Sounds like a great time for you and your Son.
If you go tto Pursima/San Ysrido or any of the samll Villages you need only to ask around and somewone will offer you food and a place to sleep. Yopu
will be amased at the attention you will get when you have one of your chidren in Tow. I would strongly suggest the Bus service ,however you will not
be able to get off the main road. I hitched both North and South many times and did not have any trouble,The best way would be a Toyota pickup and
camper{Older Model}
Most of the Towns have rooms to rent. Try to stay at the cleanest. If you have any medical problems with your little one go to a General Hospital if
they are close. You will be well taken care of by these fine people.Skeet/Loreto
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Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
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Your Trip
Here?s a proposal that is a bit of academia blended with real life experience and includes some mixing with the locals so you and your son will
experience something unique. I propose you spend a week each at El Rosario, BC, and at Santiago, BCS.
In El Rosario, Baja Norte, you have a wealth of worthy subjects to experience and mildly research. Mama Espinoza and her family have several books
written about them and their history is deeply rooted in the village. Plus there are several deposits of fossils nearby. I don?t know if your pen
name defines your academic interests (packoderm vs. pachyderm), but the fossils might turn up something you would enjoy, especially for your young
son. There are several small hotels in El Rosario that you could probably get for around $10/night if you negotiate a weekly rate. The folks welcome
tourists and there are a number of local restaurants. Once you?re settled in you can select the things of interest you want to explore. You?ll be on
the west coast, so the nights will be cool.
Santiago is my second suggestion, in Baja California Sur between La Paz and Cabo San Lucas. It is a couple of miles west of the highway, but there is
enough traffic you could bum a ride if you wanted. The only hotel I know of is the Palomar, just off the town?s plaza. It might be a little over
what you want to spend but I?m certain there are several others that are less expensive. Santiago has a zoo which your son will love. There are side
trips you can make if you can locate local transportation, like to Los Cascades, high up into the mountains of La Laguna. There is a small market, a
hundred feet before you encounter the plaza off the highway. A pleasant fellow there can help set you up with an informal trip or two. He is excited
about the area and will have many suggestions. His store is on the right (north) side entering town. Santiago is a small village nestled in lush
greenery of a wide valley where water seems abundant. While I have limited experience there, I sense it would be an exciting place to spend a number
of days.
I envy your experiences and hope that your son gets the green light to join with you. While you are much younger than I am, we both share the same
limits of time with our children. Grab every moment you can.
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Debra
Super Nomad
Posts: 2101
Registered: 10-31-2002
Location: Port Orchard Wa./Bahia de Los Angeles BC
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The store Mike mentions is actually
a liquor store, not a market, it has the ever present Tecate paint job,(there are a couple of markets and a Pizza place at the Plaza, (short walk to
the Palomar, 3 or 4 buildings if I remember right) I was told the Palomar is the only hotel in town, (don't quote me on that) Mike is right, It
would be a great place to spend alot more time than we did last summer BEAUTIFUL! I would love to spend at least a week there and explore!
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Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
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A Liquor Store???
most certainly you are mistaken, I would never frequent such a pagen place! I must have been in search of rose petal water. You must have missed my
dig on another thread calling you De brat! Figuered I'd be in for it big time! Too late now!
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Packoderm
Super Nomad
Posts: 2116
Registered: 11-7-2002
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I plan on responding to all of your replies with my thoughts and my thanks to each respondent at a later time, but I would first like the
conversation to continue for a while, if it will. I think it is very interesting to see how you formulate the very least expensive vacation/travel
scenario. It is almost like a class project. I would like it to continue not for selfish reasons, but instead to see how imaginative all of you can
get to create a vacation environment most like how the native Mexican people live. Carl Franz touches on this concept in his book which I found
interesting. In the past, I have personally enjoyed the experiences of voluntary, and sometimes not so voluntary, financial exile in third world
countries. Is it still possible to do this in a place as close as Baja? I?m thinking yes; heck, I think it is still possible in Alta California at
places such as Slab City, but I would like all of your input and ideas.
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Ski Baja
Senior Nomad
Posts: 652
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: Rosarito Beach
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Being ready
That guy is ready for snorkeling ! But, don't pass up the chance to have a Mexican family show him their kind of love.
I wouldn't give him a spear yet but definitely fins, mask and snorkel.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64858
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Great photo... looks like your handsome son could turn around and almost point straight to Beach Bob's and Camp Gecko!
The way my kids and I go to Baja on very limited budget, is to almost always wilderness camp (Shell Island, Boojum Country, or ?) or at inexpensive
but great places like Gecko ($3/pp) or Gypsy's ($5/car) at Rancho Cielito Lindo.
I get annual Mexican auto insurance (www.discoverbaja.com) which is way cheaper than daily coverage if you spend over 2 weeks/ year in Baja. I have only one vehicle that is both my
work truck, family car, and Baja adventure vehicle (Toyota Tacoma 4WD). However, the xtra cab is getting tight as my kids are still growing... 4 door
Tundra is likely the next rig.
I know this is not exactly what you are asking for... But, that is how I vacation in Baja without 'big' bucks.
I do not recommend the Green Tortoise bus for a small child... it is great for a single person who isn't fussy (from a friend who found Baja by using
that tour). The idea of staying in small motels or with families sounds great. Do spend time in San Ignacio, it managed to attract Jimmy Smith over 40
years ago and changed his life.
One really cheap place along the way is Coyote Cal's Hostel, on the coast dirt road, north of Ejido Erendira just past Castro's Fishing Resort. http://www.coyotecals.com
J.R.'s idea of living off the sea is great, too... But, a warning (to make Dave happy): collecting clams or other shellfish (to eat) is illegal.
I hope you think about writing a book after the adventure.. at least post about it here!
[Edited on 11-5-2003 by David K]
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Anonymous
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Packoderm,
when will you be down? Our place sits empty for most of the year lately and you are welcome to use it for free. plenty of room and a nice beach. it
sit's 15 miles below Todos Santos. a 2 min walk and you are on the highway where the bus stops. There are also 3 small markets within a 20 min walk.
I will be using it between Dec 15 and Jan 12th so the house is full but the property is big and you can set up camp on the beach if you like. There
is an outdoor shower you can use also. If you use a lot of water I may ask you to buy 10 worth of gas for the truck (we truck in the water).
Any way if you want it's there.
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Bajabus
Senior Nomad
Posts: 892
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: Elias Calles B.C.S. or NC USA
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Mood: My friends..it's good.
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oops that was me in the above post offering the place to stay.
I forgot to log in.
"Preventive war was an invention of Hitler. Frankly I would not even listen to anyone seriously that came and talked of such a thing."
Dwight David Eisenhower
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Packoderm
Super Nomad
Posts: 2116
Registered: 11-7-2002
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That is very generous of you Bajabus. We will be going between New Years and Jan. 16. Also, it is very nice of Ski Baja to invite us along. I wasn?t
being shameless in posting the picture of my son to elicit alms from the board, however. I was just trying to illustrate the fact that my son has
experienced and greatly enjoys travel in Baja. Well, I was being a little shameless in showing off my kid. Again, I really appreciate the kind
gesture.
Maybe we can start a thread like ?My purebred Mexican Dog,? but for our kids (young and maybe not so young).
It is hard to imagine Ski Baja actually taking me and my son along, but I am open to that; it could be fun to do that. We travel light, and if he
can?t handle us he can always dump us off at the nearest bus stop. I like Baja Bus?s offer as well; it sounds like fun. I wish my wife could join us,
but she just got a new job.
That brings to mind another idea for a thread: ?Traveling light in Baja ? What do you really need?? Before we had our kid, my wife and I could
comfortably travel with everything we need for several weeks of Mexican travel in two Kelty external frame backpacks.
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Bajabus
Senior Nomad
Posts: 892
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: Elias Calles B.C.S. or NC USA
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Mood: My friends..it's good.
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you are more than welcome, just let me know.
bajadudes this is the antispampartuneed to take out @starband.net
"Preventive war was an invention of Hitler. Frankly I would not even listen to anyone seriously that came and talked of such a thing."
Dwight David Eisenhower
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Anonymous
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Sounds like you already know how to live on the cheap if you're a backpacker, and have some Baja experience. Don't know what you're looking for
beyond that. For the safety and confort of your son, I'd recommend renting a car in TJ and camping, bringing a lot of your own food. Put it on a
credit card for crissake. You don't have to stay in a campground - I never do. Why? Get a $29 tent so you're not sleeping under the stars. You say
you want to enjoy yourself, but self-imposed "financial exile" with your son in tow is not wise. Sounds like you need to sort out your agenda -
vacation or anthropology project? And you're leaving your wife at home? tsk tsk
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Natalie Ann
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2819
Registered: 8-22-2003
Location: Berkeley
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Packy - Sounds like a number of great choices within your budget - and certainly more suggestions to come. I suspect both you and your son will
remember this trip as a special one, perhaps the first of many "low-budget" trips.
Wanted to let you know that I agree with David K. on the Green Tortoise thing - not a place for your 3 year old. Way more adult behavior than any 3
year old needs to be cooped up with. And, as I stated in an earlier post, fleas- big time.
Be yourself, everyone else is already taken.
.....Oscar Wilde
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Packoderm
Super Nomad
Posts: 2116
Registered: 11-7-2002
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I'm wondering about how much the bus costs. I hear that it costs about $122.00 U.S. dollars from T.J. to Cabo or something like that. Is that first
class? If so, how much is second class? Chicken class? I've ridden the first and second class several years ago. I personally like the second class
better. First class feels too much like a jet airliner. I remember that second class was considerably cheaper. I thought it was cool how they
upholstered the dash board with shag carpeting and how they made a big shrine on it ? pretty funny. Maybe some other bus companies could be cheaper?
Is it possible to get to La Purisima and other places like this via bus and/or commuter bus?
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flyfishinPam
Super Nomad
Posts: 1727
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Loreto, BCS
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Mood: gone fishin'
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Cheap trip in Loreto
Hey Pack and son, I think I can be of some serious help to you if you wnt to come to Loreto. I can give you complete instructions to get here by bus
and set you up with a local family. Contact me and I'll actully check out my u2u message for you. Think about your budget and let me know wht it is,
also let me know what you owuld like to do how long you want to be here and how old your boy is. We'll take it from there. Hope to see you down
here.
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flyfishinPam
Super Nomad
Posts: 1727
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Loreto, BCS
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Mood: gone fishin'
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Cheap trip
I jumped right in wanting to help as soon as I saw this, but before I had read everything (the entire thread so far). And now I have to say that I
agree with anonymus' sentiments.
"You say you want to enjoy yourself, but self-imposed "financial exile" with your son in tow is not wise. Sounds like you need to sort out your agenda
- vacation or anthropology project? And you're leaving your wife at home? tsk tsk"
Buen viaje y vayan con dios
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Eli
Super Nomad
Posts: 1471
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: L.B. Baja Sur
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Mood: Some times Observing, sometimes Oblivious.
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Packoderm,
I applaud your idea. What a great opportunity to bond, just the two of you. You go for it!
All kinds of us are out there on minimal budgets living the good life. I raised my daughter on a shoe string, traveled all over Mexico with her via
2nd class trains, hitching, driving an old school bus, van, 54 Chevy pick-um-up with a home made camper on the back, ect. She is a wonderful,
conservative by nature, (go figure), hard working fine custom home builder, kind and generous to her workers, she knows where they are coming from.
Anyway, when she was a little tike, we did more than one winter camping North of San Carlos, out of Guymas. How we would stretch the Dollar was NOT
MOVE, stay put, down burn energy, buy what you need to eat for a week and see if you can't stretch it 10 days. When we would pull into San Carlos, the
budget was $25 DLLs. a week, period. Towards the end of our stay, we would get it down to $10 DLLs. a week, so that we could turn 2 weeks into 3+
weeks. Of course, I know $25 DLLs. is pretty much equal to $100 DLLs. today, but still, much of the local population lives on that amount or less, and
with how many kids?
Camping on Coyote could work really well. The bus will drop you right off near the beach. The big issue is drinking water. I remember we had a budget
of 25 gallons of fresh water a week. We used sand and sea water to wash our dishes. We bathed in the sea with Doc. Boners (Sp?) soap, and used a liter
of fresh water with a wash cloth to get the salt off.
Money has very little to do with having a good time with a little kid. What they want is your undivided attention, good food (simple beans, rice,
tortillas and fish is fine for a short term diet), fresh drinking water, a safe warm place to sleep, protection from the sun and you are set.
By the way, if you get down as far as Los Barriles, look me up, I'm easily found via Don Jimmy.
Happy Trails, Sara
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