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Dave
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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 12:19 PM
high output alternator suggestions


I want to charge my trailer's 600ah battery bank using my vehicle engine (98 explorer v6). I figure I need 150 amps minimum (at idle).

Belt size/pulley change? Starter battery drain/ dual vehicle batteries needed?

Doable? Suggestions?




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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 12:45 PM


Dave ; Call Broadway Auto Electric, Lemon Grove. Ask for Rick (Zitren) , he's the owner and has always had the answers or knows some one who does

Plus never any BS

619 461-4555

lero
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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 01:31 PM
High output


Here are some choiceshttp://www.alternatorparts.com/Extreme%20Duty%20Dual%20Recti...



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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 01:59 PM


What is the time frame. You looking for a high speed charge. If your using your car alternator the current flow is limited by how low the battery is (and what the alternator puts out) since it would be a basic constant voltage charger. Your idle speed is probabaly in the 600-800 rpm range and to get max current you'll need to raise the idle speed or change the pulley on the alternator.
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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 02:05 PM


You can get a Isolator at any auto parts store to seperate the current going to the starting battery and the other battery bank. That would allow you to keep the battery bank connected to the alternator (fia isolator) all the time so whenever the motor is running it will be charging the batteries. Isolator keeps the use of the 600w bank from drawing down the starting battery.



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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 02:18 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by TW
What is the time frame. You looking for a high speed charge. If your using your car alternator the current flow is limited by how low the battery is (and what the alternator puts out) since it would be a basic constant voltage charger. Your idle speed is probabaly in the 600-800 rpm range and to get max current you'll need to raise the idle speed or change the pulley on the alternator.


if you change the pulley to get full charge at idle it will explode on the highway:lol:




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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 02:35 PM


if you put a switch on the field wire of the voltage regulator and connect it to a 12 volt sorce. when you turn the switch on it will force the alternator to put out full charge. turn it of and it goes back to normal operation. then if you put a throttle cable on it so you can bump the idle up to about 1600 you will get a good charge.

go to any good auto electric and they can make an alternator do what ever you need.

if you are thinking of running anything like 150 amps to your trailer make sure you have a hefty cable run all the way to handle the job and a breaker.




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wink.gif posted on 6-14-2006 at 02:43 PM
True Bruce but...


it's more than that:
"When building a custom car from the ground up however, a deeper understanding of the power curve of an alternator is required. Usually a custom pulley or so-called ?power pulley? set is used with a performance alternator. A mismatched pulley ratio and alternator will spell trouble, especially at idle speeds where alternator performance is critical. To avoid this, it is important to understand the alternator?s capability at slow speeds.

An alternator?s output is dependent on speed, but this can be deceiving because this output is not linear. Instead, it follows a curve. Each alternator has a unique curve, and at idle small changes in the alternator?s speed can make a big difference in its output capacity.

Because of the preceding, pulley ratios are very important, especially when using high amperage alternators. The pulley that are supplied with the alternator are matched to the winding and power curve. It is important that any dress up pulley sets do not deviate from this ratio. Typically, a street driven car should have a pulley ratio of at least 3:1. If the vehicle has an automatic transmission with a low idle and the vehicle spends a lot of time cruising, then a higher pulley ratio - perhaps 3.5:1 - should be used. Alternators can take high speeds up to 20,000 RPMs for short periods, so overdriving the unit is not a problem.

The output of high amp alternators can drop off substantially under 2400 rotor RPMs. Therefore, Powermaster does not recommend power pulleys with high amp alternators."




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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 03:25 PM
Field Output


Over the years, I have built numerous DC Power Gensets using 3.0 - 5.5 HP Briggs and Stratton-type gas engines and Delco Auto Alternators. The method of field regulation that I use is a variation of Bruce's suggestion. I run the 12vdc field through a 1/4 ohm rheostat . This is important on my installations so that the charge capability of the alternator doesn't stall out the engine. Simply using a switch on an Automobile should work fine since there is no such stall concern.
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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 03:51 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by TW
What is the time frame. You looking for a high speed charge. If your using your car alternator the current flow is limited by how low the battery is (and what the alternator puts out) since it would be a basic constant voltage charger. Your idle speed is probabaly in the 600-800 rpm range and to get max current you'll need to raise the idle speed or change the pulley on the alternator.


Let me rephrase:

As the trailer is stationary, charging will be done at idle speed. Simply put, I wish to use my vehicle's engine instead of purchasing an additional, overpriced :biggrin: generator. The pulley question was in referrence to belt size not diameter and regulation will solve the charging process. I know how to baby batteries. ;)

Would I be able to retrofit an alternator with the amp rating/output at idle requirements on my Explorer?

Anyone want to tell me why this is/isn't a good idea? :lol:
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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 04:02 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by MrBillM
Over the years, I have built numerous DC Power Gensets using 3.0 - 5.5 HP Briggs and Stratton-type gas engines and Delco Auto Alternators.


You can't get 150 amps out of a 5.5. The idea is not to run it 'all the live long day'. I want 2-2 1/2 hrs run time max to get 90/5% charge.




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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 04:07 PM


Dave I don't know anything about alternators, but I think you are starting on the wrong end, you should never take that battery all the way down. To start with put a voltmeter in the system never take it below 12V's if you do you need another battery and I'll leave the charging to others but I certainly wouldn't go overboard on the alternator.



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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 04:22 PM


Huh? I would never discharge over 50% capacity.



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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 04:26 PM


the thing is you will never be able to have an alternator that will put out full charge at idle or nere idle rpms and also perform adequately in normal driving situations. but there are a number of trade offs that you can make to make it work a little better one way or another. but that is all they are is trade offs. what you are trying is not real efficient. the best way will be to get a separate system to charge the batteries on your trailer. I think I would go solar.



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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 04:34 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Dave
Anyone want to tell me why this is/isn't a good idea? :lol:


People will constantly ask you;

Are you guys leaving ?
Going in to town ?
Leaving already ?
When ya coming back ?
Something wrong ?

Besides, it's noisy and makes stinky air. Go solar !
..
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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 04:53 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Dave
Huh? I would never discharge over 50% capacity.


12V is less than 50% capacity.

following from http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm

Voltage on a fully charged battery will read 2.12 to 2.15 volts per cell, or 12.7 volts for a 12 volt battery. At 50% the reading will be 2.03 VPC (Volts Per Cell), and at 0% will be 1.75 VPC or less.

So from that 12.18 V is 50%




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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 05:07 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Bruce R Leech
the thing is you will never be able to have an alternator that will put out full charge at idle or nere idle rpms and also perform adequately in normal driving situations.


Wouldn't an alternator controller work?

Maybe not 150 amps at idle but going with a larger output and playing with the idle a bit? Wouldn't that get me there?


Quote:
Originally posted by Bruce R Leechthe best way will be to get a separate system to charge the batteries on your trailer.


Agreed. I'll probably build a beefier genset like Bill suggests but that's further down the line.

Quote:
Originally posted by Bruce R Leech
I think I would go solar.


I wouldn't even want to think about the costs involved with dependably replacing 200ah with solar. Or, replacing the contents of a 7.5 freezer if the sun don't shine. Can I get a loan? ;D

Look: I've already got the car and I would have to buy the storage anyways. This seems to me to be the easiest, quickest and cheapest solution. K.I.S.S.




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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 05:15 PM


Lou

I just put down a random 12v shouln't have, when we on solar RV'ing I never let it get below 12.4 so I guess I was doing good for a dummy.

Dave I'm not an expert but I don't think you have enough battery for the load.

[Edited on 6-15-2006 by comitan]




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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 05:23 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by comitan
Dave I'm not an expert but I don't think you have enough battery for the load.

[Edited on 6-15-2006 by comitan]


600ah storage is ample for a 180-220 daily load.




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[*] posted on 6-14-2006 at 05:25 PM


Yes if its a true deep cycle battery like 6 -105 ah 6volt batteries.



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