Baja road trip, with kids
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The perfect destination for a family sea kayaking trip
By Tom Bol
May 4, 2006
"Wow! Oh my gosh! Cool! Awesome!" exclaims our son, Skyler, as we wind along the rocky cliffs above the Pacific Ocean near Ensenada, just south of San
Diego. Huge waves crash along the beach, sending white plumes of sea spray into the hazy air. After two days of monotonous driving through mountains
and the scorching Mojave Desert, this postcard view of the Pacific is a welcome sight. We crossed through the border sprawl of Tijuana into Baja and
are headed south on Highway 1. Midway down the narrow peninsula, 500 miles to the south, are the chartreuse waters of the Sea of Cortez and Conception
Bay, our final destination. But this Baja road trip is different. This time our five-year-old and his friends are along for the ride.
Like most parents, we had our concerns about taking a five-year-old to Baja. We weren't flying into a five-star resort decked out with air-conditioned
rooms and pools with swim-up bars. Instead, we were bouncing down dusty, rocky dirt roads, miles from any hope of roadside assistance, and camping on
the beach with the occasional scorpion or rattlesnake for company. And that is just what we wanted. My wife, Cree, and I had guided kayaking trips
here for years, so we knew the truth of Baja travel. In reality, Baja is a gem in the rough, poised to become another hotel high-rise sprawl. So far
only Cabo San Lucas, at the tip of Baja, has been inundated with tourists, Jet Skis, and golf courses. The majority of the peninsula is still a mix of
sleepy towns, cactus forests, and crystalline ocean waters. If you are looking for a little adventure in your vacation, Baja is perfect.
We had mentioned our Baja road trip to friends, and they quickly jumped on board for the adventure. All told, we had five kids and seven adults,
forming a colorful caravan of SUVs heavily loaded with kayaking gear bouncing down the pavement toward Baja. Driving 1,500 miles, crossing the border,
and not having instant access to bathrooms can be interesting with kids. Our first stop in the Catavina Desert resulted in the "wilderness bathroom"
concept, which became the norm on long deserted stretches of highway. What we hadn't foreseen was the potential hazards of desert bathroom breaks. No
sooner had our clan of kids gone into the desert than we heard a yell, then a distant scream, and then another shout; virtually our entire group of
youngsters had been poked, stuck, or cut on a cactus or sharp rock. After a quick first-aid session and some basic instruction on "bad plants"
(anything with a thorn), we set off again for the warm waters of Conception Bay.
"Dad, look at that machine gun! Is it real? Can I touch it?! Wow!" Skyler blurts out the window while camo-clad soldiers inspect our truck.
We are stopped at one of the numerous military checkpoints on the drive, allowing the soldiers to search our cars for drugs and contraband. Drug
trafficking into the United States via Baja has increased over the years, so the Mexican government has set up military checkpoints to solve this
problem. While it looks intimidating, the soldiers we encounter are very friendly, especially when they see our kids. The children's attempts to speak
Spanish with the soldiers add a humorous, friendly tone to the scene. After a few cursory questions, we are quickly waved through. For the kids,
talking with real soldiers is widening their perspective of the world.
On day three, after numerous "wilderness bathroom" breaks, 3,237 cardon cactuses (counting them is a great way to keep kids occupied), and one burro
encounter, we crest a hill and descend toward the stunning beauty of Conception Bay, just south of Muleg?. Small gumdrop-shaped islands surrounded by
vibrant green water punctuate the azure waters of the bay, like chocolate drops floating in a bathtub of Cool Blue Gatorade. Steep rocky mountains and
tawny-colored cliffs line Conception Bay, dotted with endless towering cardon and less stately organ-pipe cactuses. Stocky brown pelicans, elegant
coal-black frigate birds and torpedo-shaped blue-footed boobies soar through the skies, each searching for small fish using its own unique hunting
strategy. This slice of Sonoran paradise will be our home for the next two weeks, and soon the long road trip from Colorado fades away.
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