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Author: Subject: TRAILER SUSPENSION QUESTION ?????
dean miller
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[*] posted on 5-30-2007 at 09:03 AM
TRAILER SUSPENSION QUESTION ?????


My wife, Betty, Max the dog and I had planned a early summer trip to Baja--The old fasion type; find an interesting road and expore to the end, plus a short visit to meet Sirena at GN and her parents at their home at PA.

However, I contracted a summer flu so the trip didn't happen.

We did manage 3 days camping in an isolated high desert area of Cencal...great time, great weather, all was perfect and I recovered (but not as well as in Baja "a trip to Baja cures all that ails you!")

We broke camp mid day on Memorial day. Had several miles of off road travel plus about 45 miles of gravel and dirt before reaching the highway. We had traveled about 10 miles on the highway when a VW pulled up and shouted "Your trailer is on fire-- your trailer is on fire -Pull over!" We did! It was not on fire! The spring perch U bolts had become loose and the left tire had migrated to the rear. The tire was rubbing on the body of the trailer causing profuse smoke, but had not ignited.

We waited a few moments for the tire to cool before limping into a small desert community with one closed cafe, one out of business gas station and one open cafe. Lucky for us the cafe owner was also a mechanic. He and I moved the erant wheel, tightend the U bolts and were on our way to our hill top home 65 miles north.

HAS THIS EVER HAPPENDED TO OTHER BAJA OFF ROADERS?

WHAT DID YOU DO TO INSURE THAT IT WON'T HAPPEN AGAIN?

My thoughts are;
1) Puchase new U bolts
2) Dill holes in the ends of the U bolts
3) Replace the U bolts
4) Tighten the U bolts as tight as humanly possible
5) Fill the area between the U bolt nuts and the bitter end with washers and/or a nylon lock nut.
6) Tighten lock nut as tight as humanly possible
7) Secure with "Castle nuts" and cotter keys in the pre- drilled holes. The castle nuts will also be tighten as tight as humanly possible

Hopefully this should do it...

ANY SUGGESTIONS???
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

A note on the trailer;
It is a 13 foot "Roustabout" and is over 30 years old, but it couldn't be uglier if it had been made in 1913. It has many many modifications for the roads of Baja of old that are too numerous to list.

FYI ~The suspension has been modified as follows;
1) Six leaf springs replaced the three leaf springs
2) Axels moved under the spring perch
3) Three sizes larger tires
4) Wheel cut outs with Jeep Lashes
5) etc etc...

Yes, it sets and rides high with lots of road clearance..

SO ANY AND ALL SUGGESTIONS WILL BE APPRECIATED,

SDM
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Hook
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[*] posted on 5-30-2007 at 09:12 AM


I lost nut/lock washer/bolts combinations from every conceiveable place on my boat trailers over the years until I started using stainless nylock nuts. Now, I put them on everywhere I can. The only down side is that you must run them all the way out with a wrench when removing. Acceptable for the peace of mind. Prefer these to the out-of-round alternatives that I dont find in stainless.

I do carry extra sets of U-bolts, too, including the backing plates.

I doubt your situation happend quickly; probably a progression of unnoticed loosening. I go through a tightening process before any significant trip. But that is no guarantee. After replacing brakes on one side last year, i neglected to re-tighten the lugs on the wheels and had one spin off southof El Rosario. We found the wheel (which I estimate was about 30 feet in the air on one "bounce") and acceptable replacement lugs in E.R.




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tripledigitken
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[*] posted on 5-30-2007 at 09:21 AM


I'd use some Locktite (the red variety). It is available at most autopart stores. It works great. You just apply it to the bolt where the nut will be.


Ken
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bajaandy
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[*] posted on 5-30-2007 at 10:05 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by Hook
After replacing brakes on one side last year, i neglected to re-tighten the lugs on the wheels and had one spin off southof El Rosario. We found the wheel (which I estimate was about 30 feet in the air on one "bounce") and acceptable replacement lugs in E.R.


Well, I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one who has done that!

My father-in-law's boat trailer broke a leaf spring in Gonzaga Bay a few years ago. (Nice place to have to break down!) So being the good son in law that I am, I found the correct spring up here in the states and went on a rescue mission to fix the trailer. Got everything done, wheels on and good to go. Only I forgot to check if my buddy had tightened the lugs. We went off on our merry way, content in the knowledge that we had "done a good deed" and sent dad back on his way safely home. It was later when he called to say that he had to have the wheels welded to the hubs that we learned the error of our ways. Another trip north to buy new hubs and wheels and all was good again. I think he later sold that boat....

But I digress. Back to the topic... I don't advise that you "tighten the bolts as tight as humanly possible". Just torque them to the appropriate specifications, but do as Hook advises and make sure to use locking nuts with a dab of loc-tite on each one. And check everything before, during and after the trip. You know, an ounce of prevention.... blah blah blah.... Hook is also right on about the "carry a spare" idea. I even have a spare leaf spring bolted under the trailer. Ya just never know.




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Al G
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[*] posted on 5-30-2007 at 02:32 PM


Well making sure everything is tight, but I feel adding shocks would solve many of the problems. Monroe make a retro kit for adding shocks. Part# RB513. After installing the kit...measure for the correct shock. If it does not stop all the nuts from coming loose...it will surely help everything loaded on the trailer..:yes:



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bajalou
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[*] posted on 5-30-2007 at 03:50 PM


dean
U2U me your address and I'll mail you a "Tighten Your Nuts" decal - souvenir of a bad day and also a reminder to Ti----




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Bobbuzz
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[*] posted on 5-30-2007 at 06:06 PM


Something I learned from an off road racer was to buy some 3M weather strip adhesive AKA Gorilla Snot. Apply to nut/exposed theads of the allready tightened fasteners. This is some tough stuff that will allow removal but will not allow these nuts to back off by themselves.
LocTite works well also. Yes use the Red. Loctite will require you to back off nut or remove to apply. 3M product will not.
I have been using the 3M stuff for three years now with no problems.
Always re-torque the lug nuts before each trip and after changing flat.
Buy a cheap pointer type torque wrench at Harbor Freight. Works great.
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Gadget
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[*] posted on 5-30-2007 at 09:24 PM


I'll chime in here. I own a 98' Coleman Sea Pine tent trailer that we drag all over Baja. Its not a real big one, weighs 1600lb dry, 2000lb wet. I've done all the stock upgrades, leafs over axel, bigger wheel / tires etc. The suspension sucked and the brakes were worse.
Ripped it all out this year. Put a 3500lb East Coast Marine torsion axel and 10" hydraulic / electric disc brakes on it. All either galvanized or stainless steel material. The thing rocks, literally! No more broken leaf springs, loose U bolts, gagged drum brakes. Have you ever welded a broken leaf spring? I have, twice. Started carrying more spares than there are under the trailer. Over it. You can't believe how this thing floats along on or off road. The swing arm on the axel provides 6+ inches of travel and allows the entire hub assembly to be removed from the axel with just on massive bolt that clamps it to a splined shaft. I can do an entire brake and or hub overhaul on the work bench. This may not be for the faint of heart to take on, but you sound like a dooer, so maybe go for it. Think about vertually eliminating most of the breakable parts on the trailer suspension? It was a no brainer for me finally.
Lastly, for an immediate and pretty solid fix on the u-bolts go to a fine thread SAE bolt and a "physical or top lock" nut. Everything that has a bolt and nut on my pre-runner has this setup and I have never had anything loosen up. There is a name for that nut but it excapes me. Also a nylock nut in a dusty environment can get contaminated and the dust will cause the nylon insert to gall the tread as you try to remove it. You could be faced with cutting the bolt or breaking it, which can be a real bummer on a trail fix. A top lock nut cannot do this. Happy trails.

[Edited on 5-31-2007 by Gadget]




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Roberto
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[*] posted on 5-31-2007 at 07:26 PM


Gadget - you have a reference, something for this type of nut? I would have infinite uses for such a device.
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dean miller
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[*] posted on 5-31-2007 at 08:43 PM


My trailer is literally held together with Red Locktite....Every bolt and nut has received a liberal application. (I should have purchased it by the gallon rather a tube at a time)

I use Nylon Lock Nuts were ever possible on my trailer--and every thing else I own or make

I like the idea of SS nuts, but also like to use Castle nuts & cotter keys

No familar with 3M weather striping --like the name Gorillia Snot-- great American descriptive adjective...

"Tighten as tight as humanly possible is almost to spec" - at 76 years of age (me not the trailer.)

I am considering a shock installation, however also investigating and East Coast Marine axel...Sounds like the answer--after all it is only money!

I have a number of quality torque wrenches

Baja Lou my Addess is on the way---and Yes a great reminder! Certainly don't want to go through the last event again any time in the near future...

Thanks for all the suggestions and all the suggestions I may receive in the future all of which are appreciated.

sdm
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