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Baja Bernie
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An Irish Rancher in Baja
From Bouncing Around Baja
Philip Crostwaite came to the beautiful valley of La Mision Baja California in the year 1861. He left his native Dublin, Ireland, in the year 1845
when he shipped out of London, England, on a voyage of adventure to visit his relatives in Philadelphia. He and a new found friend decided to sign on
to the schooner Hopewell for what they both thought was a fishing trip out of Newport, Rhode Island, to Newfoundland. It was only after several days
at sea that they found themselves being tossed about the in the violent seas at Cape Horn at the southern most tip of South America. They had been
duped and were not going fishing—they were heading for San Francisco. Talk about going the wrong way!
When they entered the harbor at San Diego it did not take them more than a minute to decide that they would jump ship and become deserters. Kicking
around the docks they found that a ship was pulling out that same day for the east coast—but it only had room for one more passenger. As the story
goes Philip turned to his friend and with a great grin exclaimed, “Let’s flip a coin”. They did and Philip lost.
Philip almost immediately became a favorite of all of the young ladies in town. His tall, sturdy Irish build, coupled with his wonderful singing
voice and his wide handsome smile captured the hearts of all he met. It wasn’t long before he met and married Josefa Lopez Rosas in 1848. They had
many handsome sons and four daughters while he was making a larger and grander name for himself. His Irish gift of gab and his natural ability to
lead people saw him become the County Treasurer, Sheriff, and Justice of the Peace. No! Not all at the same time.
His restless spirit caused him to continually seek out new and more interesting challenges. Baja California was a new and interesting place. He made
numerous trips looking at land in the Guadalupe and Santo Tomas valleys. No U.S. or Mexican customs officer were on the border. People just wandered
back and forth at will. No Tourist Cards, no inspections, nothing. They just crossed at will wherever they wished. There certainly was no waiting
going in either direction. And do not forget that he was in a bone jolting old buckboard and had to carry all of his own food and water. No
McDonalds on every corner—no corners! Rosarito Beach was still only a twinkle in someone’s eye. Toilet paper had not even been invented! A real
rough trip.
Riding along the hills that rimmed the Pacific Ocean at just about where La Fonda’s Hotel in La Mision de La Playa is now located, he turned east and
saw a small river flowing out to sea from a beautiful green valley surrounded by craggy low laying mountains. This was it! The place he had been
dreaming about for years. In 1861 he purchased, yeah he got to “buy it,” the entire valley and even some grazing land up over the hills in Guadalupe
Valley. (There were no restrictions on foreigners owning land. Well, sure I guess a 30-year lease is better than nothing,) He bought the entire San
Miguel Rancho lock stock and barrel.
At some point that muddy river became the Crostwaite River. Now, a little over 140 years later, the river seldom if ever is able to break its way out
to the sea.
Behind the ranch house the native Indians tended a garden consisting of corn, squash, peppers, beans, potatoes and yams. The cattle provided an ample
supply of red meat for the family and all of the neighboring families. They were completely self-contained as far as foodstuffs were concerned. They
routinely harvested clams, mussels, abalone, fish and lobster from the sea. Salt was gathered from the ponds in La Salina—just a three-hour ride over
the hills.
Josefa and Phillips four daughters and seven sons did an excellent job of populating almost the entire area between Rosarito Beach and Ensenada to the
south. Various members of the clan would make the three or four-day trek to San Diego for what manufactured goods and clothing that they could not
produce in their valley.
Most of the modern Crostwaites have lost the ability to converse in the native tongue of the gregarious Irishman who started the whole thing. They do
still have that wide Irish smile, a gift of gab and blue eyes.
By the time Phillip died in 1903 he had buried his wife, two of his daughters and a grandson. They are all buried in the Crostwaite Family Cemetery
on a windy hillside with a view of the Pacific Ocean and the La Mision Valley.
Some of the old timers, like Gus Arrellanes, still remember round ups in the La Mision Valley and the cattle drives south to Ensenada in the late
1930’s and early 40’s. I’m told that these drives, as well as those beginning in the 1860’s, took about the same four to five days before they
arrived in Ensenada. There were a few bars, but no Papas and Beers; Hussong’s Cantina was around before the turn of the century. So the cowboys had
someplace to wet their whistles after a long dry cattle drive.
Now we don’t even need an excuse to frequent the same bars.
My smidgen of a claim to fame is that I have had so many really good friends. By Bernie Swaim December 2007
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Vince
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Very interesting, Bernie. I used to frequent that valley as a kid with my uncle who befriended some of the White Russians. They fed us some of their
great russian bread and stew. Thanks for the report. Vince
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Gnome-ad
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A great story once again, Bernie! Thank you so much.
Ahh, an open border – both ways!! But buckboard and no toilet paper … hmmm … these are things to ponder. I so admire the strength and persistence of
the settlers of those old days. Thanks for taking me there.
The only normal people are the ones you don't know very well. - Ancis
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DENNIS
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Vince
I used to frequent that valley as a kid with my uncle who befriended some of the White Russians. Vince |
What's a White Russian? I thought they were predominantly white? I think it's a drink. The only Black Russian I've ever seen, other than in a
glass, was Angela Davis.
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Von
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Awesome story never knew that one! Thanks 4 sharing
READY SET.....................
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Baja Bernie
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Vince
You got it correct...many 'White Russians' left Russia after they were defeated while fighting the 'Red' Army during their civil war and many of them
settled in the Guadalupe valley and the eastern part of La Mision Valley. Also down around San Vicente.
Here is a link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_movement
My smidgen of a claim to fame is that I have had so many really good friends. By Bernie Swaim December 2007
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DENNIS
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Good link. Thanks. I'd never heard the term before.
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bacquito
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Very interesting story. I have heard of the Russian population before but was not familiar with Philip Crostwait. In reading your story I'm left with
the impression that perhaps these people got more joy and appreciated life better than most of us do today-I include myself. Imagine not having to
worry about crossing the border or buying toilet paper. Do you suppose "mordida" existed?
bacquito
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Baja Bernie
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bacquito
Yes, there was mordida but it was very rare because there were very few officials to have their hands out.............Mostly it occurred in Mexico
City and had to do with registering land.
My smidgen of a claim to fame is that I have had so many really good friends. By Bernie Swaim December 2007
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Dave
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Baja Bernie
You got it correct...many 'White Russians' left Russia after they were defeated while fighting the 'Red' Army during their civil war and many of them
settled in the Guadalupe valley and the eastern part of La Mision Valley. Also down around San Vicente.
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Weren't the Russians the first group to suffer from land expropriation? Interesting to note that the 1919 Constitution specifically prohibits large
private land holdings. Wonder how the Crosthwaite family escaped? 
Fourth generation Crosthwaites include a local land "developer", artist, concert pianist and journalist/author.
And...Didn't John Stocker buy his ranch from the Crosthwaite family?
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DENNIS
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Who is John Stocker?
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David K
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The Russians who came to Guadalupe Valley were known as 'Malakans'... a religious group. They settled there in 1905... well before the revolution of
1917.
See more from when visited the museums there in August, 2001 with Fishin' Rich, elgatoloco & Baja Barb and David Eidell: http://www.vivabaja.com/cabras/page3.html
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DENNIS
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So... Who is John Stocker?
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Baja Bernie
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John Stocker
Who knows but I think he was the father of Eve Stocker who owned a huge home in La Mision and owned La Fonda's for many years. (there are many stories
here but not to be shared on this public arena)
She died when she stumbled over one of her cats while in her gardens in the dead of the night and broke her neck..........at least that is what the
cops said.....and then everyone began to call Tequila Pancho.....El Gato.
David, Your are correct that the Molokans (Milk Drinkers) settled in 1905 and were joined by many other Russians in the 1915-20's The difference in
spelling is because the Armenians spelled it one way and the Russians another http://books.google.com/books?id=35WQOduN1F4C&pg=PA109&a...
The Russians and even more the Italians settled in La Paz when El Duce took over Italy.
My smidgen of a claim to fame is that I have had so many really good friends. By Bernie Swaim December 2007
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DENNIS
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| Quote: | | Originally posted by Baja Bernie "He who is blind to my soul shall never know me" |
How many men know their own soul?
How many men know they have one?
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Baja Bernie
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Dennis
I noticed you mood indicated an open mind and a good listener..........both are highly regarded by one who know his own soul.
My smidgen of a claim to fame is that I have had so many really good friends. By Bernie Swaim December 2007
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DENNIS
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Thanks Bernie.....
I'm off to bed to ponder that. I have a feeling I'll awake with a smile.
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Gnome-ad
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Glad I keep re-visitng this thread ... really wonderful and thoughtful interaction leading to interesting information and soul searching ...
Thanks - leaves a smile on my face for sure.
The only normal people are the ones you don't know very well. - Ancis
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Von
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This is a story to be read once in a while really cool im always riding my motorcycle back there through San jose dela Sorra to Guadalupe so
beautiful.
READY SET.....................
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DENNIS
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That's really good, Mike. First time we've seen the poet in you. How about some more..........
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