David K
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Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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BAJA 9-08 Trip Report Text: Shell Island, Puertecitos, Gonzaga, Coco's, Hugo's latest paintings (El Rosario), ...
Hi Gang!
Baja Angel and I had an extended Labor Day weekend to go camping in Baja. We hoped to get out onto Shell Island, but with a New Moon and extreme high
tides for the weekend, we knew it was iffy! You see, it is called 'Island' for a good reason... and during the highest tides of each month, sea water
surrounds the barrier island/ beach.
We left Oceanside about 4:30 am Saturday and headed for Calexico/ Mexicali via I-8... breakfast was in El Centro and Mexicali was entered about 7:30
am.
A detour kept us off the direct route for San Felipe for a few blocks... but it was very well signed and no problemo.
The washouts on Hwy. 5 we read about were already repaved and not a problem... However, the skys overhead from about La Ventana to almost El Dorado
opened up and water poured down like perros y gatos... A flash flood even was crossing a vado north of El Chinero as we crossed, swerving into the
other lane... Lightning all over... wow!
We topped the gas tank at the new Pemex at El Dorado Ranch and stocked up on cerveza... Tecate and a new Sol with lime and salt already added. The
rain had stopped before getting to the Pemex, not very wet there, at all.
We breezed down to Km. 26 where we head east for Shell Island, arriving about 11 am, well before high tide (about 2:30pm). Alas, the flats between the
beach and the desert were all wet and muddy from the previous high tide (and rain?). I said a brief prayer and pointed my Tacoma towards the beach...
staying in the most well established tracks, through the flooded mud field... and made it!
Saturday, camp was set up and we began to get into that 'Baja Feeling' most of you understand. It was hot and sunny for part of the day, then clouded
up and even dropped a few drops of rain. We moved our tent under the pop up shade, should it pour during the night... but it remained dry.
Sunday was great... some clouds in the distance, but hot and beautiful on Shell Island. During the night, we did a beach run to see how my HID lights
worked in the moonless night. It was amazing to see the difference that type of lighting illuminates the landscape over halogen lights... More like
the sun, and Elizabeth even noted she could see the green color of plants as if it was daytime.
We spent a long time spotting satellites, shooting stars, and hoping for a close encounter both nights... So mant stars on a moonless Baja night!
Monday, the skys were totally blue with no clouds in sight... the best day! We did get a lot of sun, and rather than get any more I suggested we
cruise on and enjoy a day of air conditioned driving and, a night at Alfonsina's motel or perhaps all the way to Baja Cactus in El Rosario, for some
real luxury!!!
STAY TUNED for the rest of the story!
Now some photos ... posted in 6 groups for dial up Nomads to enjoy, click here for Part I of the photos, or go to the list of all 6 links, below: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=33578
[Edited on 9-4-2008 by David K]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Part II... Monday, 9-1-08
So, we pack up camp Monday morning and drive the 2 miles to the access track across the lagoon/ mud flats... A local fisherman's hut and pangas mark
the spot... It is a little ways south of the old causway and bridge route which is all melted down and useless now.
In the distance we see a truck that didn't attempt to drive across the flats... The area was just as wet as when we drove onto the island 2 days
earlier... We get through, no problemo!
On to Hwy. 5 and a quick fill up of the tires (15 PSI back to 30 PSI)... Heading south we were surprised by a remote military inspection stop, just
south of Arroyo Matomi... maybe 8 miles north of Puertecitos... and they really went through stuff (bored?).
Just before Puertecitos is the new highway fork, well signed. The new route goes into the hills above town and rejoins the older gulf route in a mile
or so... From there on to about Bahia Cristina/ La Costilla there is heavy duty road construction with bridges and more signs of a super duper
highway... wider than the one coming into Puertecitos (has shoulders)!
Past La Costilla, about 5-6 miles from Puertecitos, you no longer see any new construction... just the same rough roadbed we have experienced since
the floods and Baja 1000 of late 2005.
It was about a 3 1/2 hour drive to Gonzaga Bay which meant the average speed was 15 mph... very slow for my Tacoma. The Pemex had open signs, but
nobody was there (they were at Alfonsina's eating)! We got to Alfonsina's about 3:30pm to find the airport under water from the ultra high tide, but
Antonio was there and all smiles! He quickly handed us two cold Pacificos and asked us to sit out and enjoy the view while the gas station people
finished their lunch. The meal was a big plate of fresh halibut... two large filets, rice, beans, salad on each plate plus tortillas... The two big
dinners and six Pacificos totalled $34... awesome!! We thanked Antonio and headed back out to the Pemex...
The attendant said he had to sell us gas from a precision gas container for a true 21 litres, as the pump was off and the repair technician was coming
soon. No problemo... we just bought the 21 litres (5.5 gallons) to get us to El Rosario easily... $17 ($3.07/ gal)... better than back home!
The 36 mile road out to Highway 1 was better than the previous 45 miles, with a few recent washouts... Coco's Corner was locked up.
Highway One to El Rosario from Laguna Chapala (113 miles) was fast and easy... just the new widening work going on in the hills between the Punta San
Carlos road and El Progreso. Just way too many truck and auto accidents with the trucks having to cross into the other lane just going around curves.
The wide parts are great, about 1 1/2 lanes wide each direction (no not 4 lanes wide... yet).
We arrived at Baja Cactus about 9:20 pm and missed seeing Antonio by a couple of days... However, the receptionist was kind enough to call him in
Tijuana on his 2 way radio and we chatted for a bit. Antonio was totally surprised that we were there, since we never hinted at going to Rosario in
our posts. I told him that tomorrow was Baja Angel's birthday and I wanted to treat her to some luxury... the kind only Baja Cactus can provide in
that part of the world!
The bed and high pressure shower was awesome, as expected... we relaxed, watched one of the Bourne movies on TV (Fox Cinema channel), and had a great
sleep.
Monday's photos begin here: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=33579
Tuesday, 9-2-08... Baja Angel's birthday and we get a surprise knock at our room door... and it is the receptionist with a birthday cake!!! Wow, too
cool... We bring the cake down to the lobby and share it with the Baja Cactus staff... who sings Happy Birthday in English to Elizabeth (Lis).
I ask about a car wash service to remove the salt mud from the Tacoma and we are directed to a place next door to Hugo's Tacos Mision! The young guys
there quote me 60 pesos (6 dollars), and I can hardly belive that! We went to Hugo's, who just opened up and was surprised to see us... We had a giant
machaca burrito for breakfast and photographed his newest art... just great work!
The car wash crew worked about 45 minutes on my muddy mess truck and made it shine... I was happy to give them some extra for the great work... they
were jazzed...
On the way home, not much to tell... Inspection at the El Rosario mesa and above Santo Tomas were both fast... I wanted to treat Elizabeth to birthday
dinner at the Half Way House, but it was closed! On to Puerto Nuevo for two large grilled lobsters and some Dos Equis cerveza.
Took the FREE road through Tijuana just as darkness fell, arrived at the border line at 7:36 pm... and it would have been about a 20 minute wait,
except some car was stalled or detained at the inspection booth for a full 20 minutes in our line! Got home to Oceanside about 9:15 pm, last night.
That's most of the story... Now some more photos... Stay tuned!
[Edited on 9-4-2008 by David K]
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TMW
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Thanks DK great pixs and report.
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David K
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Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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The Photos
Photos re-posted in smaller groups, see Baja 9-08 Photos (six parts) or easily click the following links to each group...
Part I Sat.: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=33578
Part II Sun.: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=33579
Part III Mon. AM: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=33580
Part IV Puertecitos and south: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=33581
Part V Gonzaga and Coco's Corner: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=33582
Part VI Baja Cactus Cake, Hugo's latest art, and more!: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=33583
[Edited on 9-4-2008 by David K]
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Cypress
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David K. Thanks for the photos. And Happy Birthday to your wife.
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Bob H
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Great trip report (including the most recent news on the road conditions on your way South)... and the photos were just outstanding! Looks like there
were a lot more shells, etc. on Shell Island than I ever saw before... from the storm, huh? Looks like it got quite windy at times. I bet the stars
were GREAT!
What a great birthday Elizabeth must of had.
Bob H
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fdt
Ultra Nomad
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Thanks DK for the report great trip.
A well informed Baja California traveler is a smart Baja California traveler!
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BajaWarrior
Super Nomad
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Location: Mission Bay, San Diego. Playa Hermosa, San Felipe.
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Our beach house is only a mile away from the south end of Shell Island, and we experianced some pretty dark clouds (although no rain to speak of on
the beach) on Saturday, and some wind to whip up the waves.
[Edited on 9-4-2008 by BajaWarrior]
Haven't had a bad trip yet....
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Stickers
Senior Nomad
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David, inspiring report and i can see why Shell Island is your own little heaven.
One question though - How do you like that Toyota truck?
 Just
kidding
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Thanks... I enjoy taking the photos and sharing them with you all!
Late edit: I realized after putting all the photos in the same thread that those with slower Internet access would never be able to see them... so now
they are divided into six parts. See links above...
[Edited on 9-4-2008 by David K]
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Neal Johns
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Happy Belated Birthday, Mrs. K!
And another nice story and pics, DK.
My motto:
Never let a Dragon pass by without pulling its tail!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
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Location: San Diego County
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Thanks Neal!
I am in the process of grouping the photos in multiple posts so those with slower Internet connections can also see them. I will remove them from this
thread once that is done...
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
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All done... I hope those with high speed didn't mind me making them viewable for the less fortunate with dial up service!
 
Salud!
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Mexitron
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Nice trip report--thanks David! That art is beautiful!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
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Location: San Diego County
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Thanks Steve... Yah, Hugo is some artist... and they are getting more vivid!
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preston
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David:
You continue to be a great asset to this board. This loop is one of my favorites. I took it in June and sounds like not much has changed ... except
when I passed Puerticitos there were many construction vehicles active (even on a Saturday).
Did you see any construction vehicles as you passed through?
Wondering if they have stopped and pulled the vehicles.
Thanks,
Preston
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David K
Honored Nomad
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Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by preston
David:
You continue to be a great asset to this board. This loop is one of my favorites. I took it in June and sounds like not much has changed ... except
when I passed Puerticitos there were many construction vehicles active (even on a Saturday).
Did you see any construction vehicles as you passed through?
Wondering if they have stopped and pulled the vehicles.
Thanks,
Preston |
Hi Preston,
Thanks for the nice words!
Yes, they are hard at work... one large crew with many large Cats, double dump trucks, etc.
The pavement ends less than 2 miles from the Puertecitos fork (shown in my photos) and we came upon the crews right away... In fact, we missed taking
the first detour down to the older route and ended up following one of the double dumpers bringing fill dirt to the next detour.
They seem to be just doing a small section at a time, rather than grading the entire new highway route for several miles ahead, then paving... as the
way Mex. 1 was built.
Last time we were through here (coming north then) was in Feb. of 2007 and pavement had reached Puertecitos then with a 2 mile unpaved section a mile
north of Puertecitos.
So, in 18 months they have only managed to grade and pave about 4 miles. It is tough country, however!
The roadbed construction ends about 5 miles from Puertecitos, I believe well before La Costilla.
(In July, 1973, when Hwy. 1 was built through central Baja, there were probably several companies at work. From the end of pavement near El Progreso,
new roadbed constuction went 20 or more miles ahead of the asphalt crews going south. Guerrero Negro north to Laguna Chapala roadbed was already
built, minus some bridges, with several sections of pavement, not all connected. Agua Dulce to Laguna Chapala was traveled on the original Baja main
road when we drove south).
Photo of my dad's station wagon in the Laguna Chapala valley on the new highway roadbed, in July 1973... he had sold his 4WD Sububan thinking the
highway would be near complete for this trip... We were surprised that so much of the old main road was still in use, but that Ford got us through!
The pavement was completed just before December.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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New web page for this trip now saved on VivaBaja.com... Here is the new url: http://vivabaja.com/908 (Sept. '08: Shell Island to Gonzaga Bay, El Rosario)
Here's some samples...
[Edited on 9-21-2008 by David K]
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