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Santiago
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toilet valves and hard water
My place has really hard water and about once a year I'm yanking the fill valve out and replacing it (I buy them by the case at Home Depot). I always
use the float valve type but wonder if the older style float ball is better in hard water. And as I'm typing I'm thinking it might be a good idea to
trun the valve off when I leave (I do) and then flush the line so the valve is not holding back hard water - will this help to reduce deposits?
Thanks
Oh - and please, Pomp - no jokes about annual yanking....
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vandenberg
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Santiago,
Just replace the valve. No way around it, unless you want to use bottled water.
Water here in Nopolo is so hard that houseplants won't grow and whither away and beans won't cook. Can't use tapwater for coffee, unless you want to
toss the coffeemaker after a season.
Our toilets are 15 years old and for years we have to use a gallon, sink filled bucket, to help flushing the toilet. The build up inside, from the
tank to the bowl, has so much mineral build up that the water flow is obstructed and the toilet don't flush properly.
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Russ
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While you have the water turned off, try this... I replace all my shut off valves with 1/2" PVC. The angle stops (I think that's right) corrode faster
than my flush valves. I got a bunch of threaded valves and short grey plastic nipples about 1' long. They haven't fallen apart in my hands yet. I
have a couple toilet valves on there way down that are the newer version of the ones that don't use the float on a stick. If I find what I ordered
I'll post it and maybe some one will tell us what they think of them. Good plumbing Russ
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Bob and Susan
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replace the unit with a
"fluidmaster ballc-ck"
then get the "softest" flapper balls you can find
usually they are at home depot in bulk
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Bob and Susan
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oh yea
about 5-8 bucks and are available even here
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Russ
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Here's what I'm going to try.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12758...
Like Bob & Susan but has something to stop it from refilling if there's a leak.
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vandenberg
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I've got both and it doesn't make any difference. It does not make the water any softer.
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El Camote
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Not to hijack the thread but has anyone found a way to cut hard water spotting on automotive glass?
My new-to-me car has bad spotting only on the right side glass. I'm guessing in it's previous life, it was often parked overnight on a curb next to a
sprinkler system with bad aim.
I've tried, alchohol, limeaway, brillo, vinegar. No bueno.
Knowledge is good. - Emil Faber
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Diver
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Dilute sulfuric acid.
There used to be a cleaning product - red color- with sulfuric acid that worked great.
Sorry, can't remember the name.
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El Camote
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Do you think muriatic acid would have the same effect? I have some of that on hand. Well, not on my hands, that would sting.
Knowledge is good. - Emil Faber
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Diver
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Muriatic should work as well, probably better.
Note the concentration of the acid - I do not believe that you can dilute with water.
I think water neutralizes the acid so it's a good thing to rinse with clean water after use.
The product I was referring to above was "Web" cleaner.
I did a search and can't find it.
It used to make spotted sinks, shower doors and chrome faucets SHINE !
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vandenberg
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El Camote,
You sure it was from sprinkler water?
Had a car parked in my driveway in Sacramento under huge mulberry trees and whatever it is that comes of the tree, pitted the windshield and I had to
replace it.
According to the glassman, very common.
If it are indeed waterstains, vinegar and a razorblade should cure it.
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DianaT
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Quote: | Originally posted by El Camote
Do you think muriatic acid would have the same effect? I have some of that on hand. Well, not on my hands, that would sting.
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We bought some of that and after I read the warnings on the label that almost assured instant death if opened, , we dumped it.
We have had amazing results with removing cement from our tile floor with white vinager, so I wonder if it would work for that stubborn hard water
stain.
When we leave BA, we leave some bleach in the toliets and so far, so good.
Diane
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Santiago
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Hey - what the heck happened to my W/C valve question???? heh - reminds me of that classic thread on how to hijack one.
Anyway I use the one like what Bob and/or Susan (by the way - has anyone actually seen both of them in the same room at the same time?) showed.
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vandenberg
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Quote: | Originally posted by Santiago
Hey - what the heck happened to my W/C valve question???? heh - reminds me of that classic thread on how to hijack one.
Anyway I use the one like what Bob and/or Susan (by the way - has anyone actually seen both of them in the same room at the same time?) showed.
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No, we have only one comode per bathroom.
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Bob and Susan
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for hard water mix a little CLR in the wash bucket
this is how we kept the boat from spotting after washing
it works...
for the toilet the soft flapper balls really work
the calicum and minerals have a hard time sticking to it
i like the idea of the "ballc-ck" that stops filling if there is a leak
save the water
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Bob and Susan
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russ...did you read this review about your new "ballc-ck"???
Pros:
When it does shut off, it shuts off completely,
unlike many lever and ball float designs.
Cons:
Does not shut off reliably.
Float is insufficient to ensure that the valve turns off every time.
The float often binds on the tube it slides on, and the hinge of the top lever occasionally binds, preventing valve shut-off.
The "Leak Sentry" device is very difficult to adjust, unreliable, and its chain fouls easily in the other mechanisms inside the tank --
on balance, it causes more waste of water than it prevents.
now i don't know if i wold want it...looks like more work
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Russ
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I did read that review, thanks. But I read it after I made the post and since there was only one review I'm hoping it was a bad installation or a
single incident. Mine is on it's way down so I'll try it and if I have problems I'll let everyone know.
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Bob and Susan
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yes we want a "ballc-ck" review
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Russ
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Don't hold your breath cuz I don't have it yet and I have the "Maņana Syndrom" bad!
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