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Paulina
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3810
Registered: 8-31-2002
Location: BCN
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Long report - short trip - photos in case you get bored.
Dog John wasn’t dead, and as for Miguel’s bed, I never found out who stole it out of his casa. I lost a day and gave up a nice piece of ground. Here
are all the details along with photos. As a fair warning, it’s a long one.
We left Los Osos Dec. 20th at o’dark thirty and were at the peso exchange at the San Ysidro border by noon. After waiting in line at the bank for 40
min. to pay for my tourist card we were off, making our usual stops on our way to Punta Banda. First stop, the Pemex in Maneadero to fill up with
diesel @ $2.80 gal., then on to El Recreo for a late lunch. Best tacos ever. Although the price has gone up to 12 p. each it’s worth the stop. El
Indio for road sodas, passed by Sharkey’s as we didn’t see a little white truck parked out front, last stop was the Cantu Fruiteria for everything we
don’t want to have to buy at Martha’s in Bahia, then finally at 3:40pm we were home.
Of course every trip is a work in progress, so this time the water pump in the garage decided to go on vacation. Our neighbors Jeff and Jamee offered
up the water in their Jacuzzi for our toilet if need be. Thanks to Jeff, he was able to get it going by the time we returned two weeks later.
After unpacking Punta Banda stuff and repacking for Bahia Dern lit a fire and popped the pork butt in the oven to torment us all night as we tried to
sleep.
Because we overslept we barely got up in time to hear our traditional Mexican National Anthem played at 6am. We weren’t on the road to Bahia till
6:30am. With all the new Pemex stations down the highway it’s nice to not have to use the old one in San Quintin across from the church.
At 12:45 we were at the Parador, stopped for our traditional pee in a pot hole (hard to find now a days) pulled into town at 1:30. 7.5 hrs. from PB
to Bahia isn’t too bad. We had a good drive, there weren’t many people on the road. The new road south El Rosario is nice and the only stretch where
we came close to getting hit. It seems the better the road, the faster people drive. Corners don’t seem to slow some people down.
Our first stop in town was for TKT at the Pemex. Memo Smith's truck was still parked in the same place it was when I was last there in Aug. I love the
sign painted on the side.
The second stop was to Herman’s house to get him to autograph my book. We always have to stop to see him first, that way I can assure he’s not mad at
me for one reason or another, as usually happens after day 2.
We noticed that the Las Flores train in the town square has been spray painted with a second round of graffiti. It should have been covered back in
the summer when it was first attacked. Now it’s become a battling ground for spray painting rights. It’s a shame that some of the young people don’t
have respect for their town or it’s heritage.
When we got out to our place it seemed awfully quiet. My friend Liesel rode by on her quad, walking her rotty Ludwig and our neighbor’s dog Salsa. She
told us that our neighbor Jim had passed away just the day before. His wife was in San Quintin taking care of business.
Monday we drove into town to find Martin as we needed his tractor services. We needed a septic hole dug as well as a dirt ramp built up on the new
slab so the trailer could be put in place.
Flash back to October, Dern and Jeff built a 35’ x 35’ concrete slab in 13 days from start to finish, including demo-ing the old place and moving out
the old trailer. The columns for the deck and shade will be a spring break endeavor.
Our neighbor Phyllis pulled in around 7:30 pm as I was out walking Salsa. She said that the experience was like National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation.
She was able to get the entire process completed in just two days, one of them being a Sunday. Amazing! Jim was in the back of her truck, parked in
town, special permit required to escort him personally.
Tuesday Dec. 23rd; Dern and I were almost to town in our best baja funeral clothes that we didn’t know we needed to pack when Martin’s son passed us
in the tractor, followed by Martin in his truck. We thought he wouldn’t show up today because of the funeral as Martin dug the hole and we assumed he
would be at the service. Dern dropped me off at the Pemex so I could walk up to the church and he beat feet back to the trailers. I had a tissue in
one hand, a bottle of water in the other and 200 p stuffed in my bra (just in case).
The service was very nice. Jim’s casket was taken from the back of the truck and placed on four chairs that sat facing each other at the front of the
church. After the service, with lights flashing, the police escorted everyone to the cemetery. I hitched a ride with Herman who wanted to kidnap me
for a shot at his place, but I made him drop me off at Martha’s instead so I could finish walking up the hill to the cemetery.
After a short service at the burial place the cement mixer was fired up as we all looked on. Buckets full of cement were lowered into the hole and
spread over the rebar, that was placed over the sheet of plywood, that was covering the casket, that was surrounded by cinderblock. The mixer roared
on as most of the gringos left to gather at an after party.
Fortunately I was able to hitch a ride back out of town. My back up plan was to use the emergy-pesos that were in my high pocket to buy two six packs
of Tecate to share with the guys as they finished up their cement work, and hang out with Jim while I waited for Dern to return to pick me up.
I was dropped off to find the boys had nearly completed their work. The trailer was up on the slab, the septic hole was ready with a huge pile of dirt
standing near by with my name on it. I should have grabbed the camera but didn’t. After changing my clothes I grabbed a shovel instead.
Christmas Eve: With the help of a black barrel that we “borrowed” from Doc we hooked up the septic system. (It’s an old school baja system, and I know
there will be readers who will object as the topic has already been covered in previous threads, so hopefully we won’t have to go there again.) The
hole is deeper than it looks.
We were taking a break when Dog John’s dogs wandered onto our patio. Both were hungry and very thirsty. We got a little worried that something fishy
might be up as it’s not like his dogs to leave him, Rincon is a long way for the dogs to have traveled, and our friend Pablo had said that John didn’t
come in for Monday night football.
We threw three Tecates into a bag and climbed into the truck to either go on a rescue mission or to find his dead body. As we drove out to Rincon we
discussed whether we would report his body, or wait a day or two because of the holiday. We decided we’d let Pablo make that decision.
When someone dies, at least in this town, you have to stay with the body and you can't touch it until the Coroner arrives from San Quintin. Someone
from the town Police department has to stay as well. We could only imagine that they wouldn’t be very happy with us if we ruined their holiday. Being
that is was Christmas Eve, we might need a lot more than three beers to hold everyone over till the Coroner ever decided to show up.
Fortunately for Dog John we found him, gave him a cervesa and took him to his truck, which had been stuck in a sand dune for over three days. We
hooked him up and pulled him out. He headed into town and we returned to finish our septic. By the way, he said that if we are ever faced with that
dilemma again, to leave him.
“I woulda left me!” he said.
We were invited to Pablo’s for Christmas festivities that evening. There was a dance at the salon and people were partying in the streets. It was an
enjoyable evening.
Christmas day was a rainy one, too wet to get much done.
Dern made a pot of beans and we filled in the septic hole between the rain drops. Note to self: I need to learn how to play more than Go Fish and War.
I did kick Dern’s butt in checkers. We didn’t drive into town at all today, a record for us!
Friday was another chore day, drove into town and was invited to a Quincenera but unfortunately didn’t make it back in for it later. Saturday it was
cold and windy all day.
We chained down the trailer to the slab so it wouldn’t go cart wheeling out to the bay on the next big west wind like the back half of old trailer
cover did. Sunday is the reason I lost the day on Monday.
For the price of a bottle of catsup, and a dolphin carving I made out of whale bone that I threw in, I was going to get my back adjusted from our
neighbor who is a chiropractor. We drove into town to hit up Martha’s for the sauce and somehow I ended up getting sauced myself. I spent some time
with Herman, learning a new card trick while he shared a sip or two of his Black Label with me. I borrowed his black suit jacket for New Years Eve. We
also visited Pablo’s to watch the football game and celebrated a little bit more with friends of ours from Daggett’s. I’m getting too old for this
celebration business. We hit up Martha’s again before heading out of town where I ran into a college friend that I hadn’t seen in over 20 years.
“Are you Paulina?”
I’m always afraid to answer yes….
It was nice seeing him again and meeting his family. I saw him again on the dance floor on New Years Eve, but by the time I made it through the crowd
he was gone.
So Monday was a wasted day for me. It figures because the weather was beautiful.
Dern worked on shoring up the roof on the old patio. The termites are eating it up something fierce. It’s lasted almost 18 years so far, but without
help it’s not going to make it to 20.
Our neighbors from down the beach, Mike, Virginia and their daughter Esperanza stopped by on their walk. Virginia is very into rescuing dogs. Keep her
in mind if you’re ever in Bahia and want to add one to your family.
They also have a charming house for sale, listed in the classified section. We'll miss them when they sell.
Tuesday, December 30th was a cement mixing day. Dern needed to build three footings, 3’ tall for the north side of the trailer. The wood he was using
to shore it up was all recycled wood from our old deck. He didn’t have any pieces long enough to reach the beam on that side.
Dog John and Pablo had driven out for a visit. The two of them along with Dern were standing by watching as I mixed the cement in the wheel barrel
with a shovel. At that same time Emma came walking up thinking how weird it was that Dern was wearing a hot pink t-shirt, until she realized it was
me. She and Bedman had pulled into town just a couple of days ago. He soon quaded over and we had a nice visit. He gave me a ride up to the old dump
to see where 8 turtle shells had been ditched near a ravine. How sad.
It was nice to see Bedman and Emma again. We were invited to join them for dinner on New Year’s Eve for his annual prime rib dinner. He took lots of
photos and hopefully will share them when they get back.
The last day of the year didn’t start out too good for Dern. Let me take that back, it started out fine until he ate the breakfast I prepared. The
poison hit him as we neared town. He dropped me off at the Diaz compound to pay our rent while he went to find a private spot in the desert. He found
me a bit later as I was walking down the main road, heading for Pablo’s. He was feeling much better, thankfully, as I didn’t want to bring in the New
Year without him.
We continued up to Pablo’s house to soak in the sun with him on his patio. That’s when he announced that someone had stolen his neighbor Miguel’s bed.
It must have had some other deep meaning as it seemed odd that someone would break into his house to steal his bed and nothing else, besides the fact
that he doesn’t have much of anything else. Regardless Miguel walked by with a smile and a wave. Another friend of ours had a bed to offer him, but he
wasn’t there at the moment, so Pablo saved that news for later.
We returned to the Diaz compound. Chubasco had killed a cow and we had been invited to join the group of local fishermen in the back for a bbq. We
didn’t stay long as Bedman’s dinner was that night and we needed to get back.
It was a wonderful dinner shared with good friends. Some said that it was better than in years past. Good food and conversation kept us later than we
had planned. Usually we like to take a nap before heading into the dance, but this year it didn’t happen that way.
We pulled into the Diaz compound around 9:30pm, passing Herman on his way out. He was driving with blinders on and didn’t see us. This was the first
year that I’ve been able to relax and not have to play keep away from Pepe, and this year Dog John was added to the list, because of Herman.
Herman told me that his resolution this year is that I can be friends with whomever I want and he will still love me. Finally! It’s only taken 18
years.
Our Camp Gecko neighbors Katie, Cameo and Cliff appeared after leaving Bedman and Emma’s dinner. We pulled them out of the gringo spot at the east end
the dance floor and spent a fun night dancing and visiting with them and our other friends from town. We ran into our friends from Daggett camp and
talked again about our lot that we (had) leased from Ruben. We decided not to push the issue of Ruben leasing our lot to another couple. Hopefully
they'll have all their ducks in a row so the same thing doesn't happen to them as we heard he showed our lot to a third person, who chose a different
lot instead. Midnight was great, came too soon this year. Hugs and handshakes all around. We didn’t leave town till around 2am.
Dern y Armando
"Mybrother" Pepe and me
I asked Pepe about his brother Femin as I hadn't seen him around town. He said that Fermin sold La Unica for three million dollars, bought a Hummer
and took the family to Cabo.
Pablo y Dern - Saludos!
New Years Day: We drove into town first thing in the morning to make our excuses to Herman. He said that he didn’t leave the dance till 11, so I don’t
know how we could have missed him! I returned his black suit jacket. I’m not sure if that is the one he’s going to be married in or buried in as he
likes to say. We didn’t stay in town long as we only had gotten about 4 hrs. sleep. Stopped at Martha’s again before turning left. There were still
people out front of her market that hadn’t made it home yet. We wanted to take a nap before returning to Pablo’s to watch the Rose Bowl game, but
never made it. I was supposed to give my email address to our friend at Daggett’s to forward on to the couple who leased our lot, but as we never made
it in, that didn’t happen. As it was our last day in Bahia we had to clean up and pack up for the drive back to Punta Banda on the 2nd.
It was a beautiful morning the day we left on Friday.
Friday, January 2nd: I convinced Dern to stop one more time to say goodbye to Herman, we honked as we passed by Pablo’s and were on our way out of
town at 7am. We stopped in Catavina at the mini market for breakfast (chips and diet sodas). When Dern started the truck it didn't want to cooperate,
so for the rest of the drive he never shut off the engine. We pulled into El Recreo in Maneadero at 1:50 for tortas to go. On to El Indio then at 2:15
we were pulling up to our driveway in Punta Banda.
I can’t wait for the day when I don’t have to leave Bahia until I want to, even Punta Banda for that matter. We always seem rushed and there’s always
work to do (but I don't think that will ever end.) Dern discovered that the problem with our truck was that he started it too quickly and didn’t wait
for the glow plugs to do their thing. Darn. I was hoping for a reason to call in missing.
After another short sleep we were up and on our way north by 5am. We bought two tamales for breakfast at the ground squirrel playground. We decided to
cross at Otay Mesa. KOGO said the wait was 15 min. Not for the lane we were in. It took 50 minutes before we were through.
We made it home before 2pm. Not bad.
I’m trying to charm my way into going back to Punta Banda for the MLK weekend, but according to Dern it doesn’t seem to be working.
Parting photo, I just love this new sign. I have to remember to take my burning rubber with me next time or they might not let me in.
P<*)))>{
on edit: spelling typo and by the way, after a few u2us I have to say that I have no idea who's photos those are with the septic barrels in the
sand... 
[Edited on 9-1-2009 by Paulina]
\"Well behaved women rarely make history.\" Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
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Bajaboy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4375
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Bahia Asuncion, BCS, Mexico
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Hi Paulina-
thanks for the great report as usual. I really enjoy your style, sense of humor, and attitude. We had a very relaxed trip to our place in Asuncion
about the same time frame. And yes, the projects will never end.
Zac
[Edited on 1-9-2009 by Bajaboy]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thanks Paulina... wonderful and coloful, as always! Sorry we missed you last Friday on our day of discovery! You almost were the first to hear the
news!
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BajaWarrior
Super Nomad
Posts: 2307
Registered: 9-27-2006
Location: Mission Bay, San Diego. Playa Hermosa, San Felipe.
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Mood: Anxious to get south
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Great story Paulina! There always seems to be something going on in your little town. Good luck with your project, and I'm surprised you had time to
sit down and type out a trip report!
Haven't had a bad trip yet....
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Sunman
Nomad
Posts: 400
Registered: 6-22-2007
Location: Oxnard
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Nice story and pics...enjoyed it very much.
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Sallysouth
Super Nomad
Posts: 1835
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Capo Beach
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Mood: missing Baja...
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What a great story/report Paulina! Loved the pics and you brought each and every one to life with your tales.Awesome!Can you tell us a bit about Pablo
and Pepe? Bueno!!! 
Happiness is just a Baja memory away...
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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Enjoyed all of the story, and all of the pictures. Thanks for sharing it all.
Diane
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Iflyfish
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3747
Registered: 10-17-2006
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I am stuck here in Oregon and it was such a pleasure to "share" your trip with you. Thanks for this great post.
Iflyfish
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13043
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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a big hug and a handshake to you and Dernie boy...(that hunk)
LOVED your report amiga...a classic... and your projects...hope to see you guys again this year sometime. Looks like we will have a family reunion in
semana santa in BOLA this year.
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Sharksbaja
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5814
Registered: 9-7-2004
Location: Newport, Mulege B.C.S.
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Busy busy! Good on you for a little different trip. Great report. I like the way
you tell and show it. Thanks.
Say what about Hector did he ever get a new Sunshine or was it....??
DON\'T SQUINT! Give yer eyes a break!
Try holding down [control] key and toggle the [+ and -] keys
Viva Mulege!
Nomads\' Sunsets
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elgatoloco
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4332
Registered: 11-19-2002
Location: Yes
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Nice report! Happy New Year!!
M&B
MAGA
Making Attorneys Get Attorneys
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Hector was all alone last week... 
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Wiles
Nomad
Posts: 337
Registered: 10-1-2006
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Paulina........absolutely your best work to date amiga. Thanks. Where can I order a signed copy of your book?
Progress has altered the physical landscape of Bahia, but it's a whole different enchilada to attempt to alter its heart and soul of which you so
masterfully exposed with your written words.
Wiles
p.s. And thanks for the picture with Pepe. He was such a good friend back in the day.
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Paulina
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3810
Registered: 8-31-2002
Location: BCN
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Thanks everyone for your comments. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Sometimes I think that our trips are just mainstream, why write about them. Then on the
other hand, when I'm jonsing for Baja and read someone elses report it really helps with the symptoms of my baja blues. I can only hope my report does
the same for some of you.
Sallysouth, Pablo is a very dear friend. The kind of man who would give you the shirt off of his back and the rest of them in his closet while he's at
it. He has two great kids. We keep telling Cody that she needs to get used to calling him "Suegro" as we are going to arrange her marriage to Pablo's
son. We found their wedding gift in Guerrero Negro last summer...
His and Her's wheel barrels!
Pablo is also an excellent cook and host. We've spent many, many hours around his dinner table.
Pepe Smith was the first local person I met in Bahia in 1981. He cooked for our college group and was quite the charmer. He used to sing in the
kitchen while he worked, "Beso me muuuuuchooooo!" and get louder when us girls would walk in.
When I got my first place in Bahia he was right there helping me with anything I needed. He kept an eye out for us, that would be me and my son who
was only 3 at the time. He made sure that we had fish for dinner if we weren't too lucky on our own. He would take us out on his panga when he didn't
have clients, and sing in the back of the boat as he steered the tiller with the side of his leg. My son got the biggest kick out that. If he got
quiet back there that meant that he had fallen asleep, so we'd wake him up with our singing.
Years later he would take us out as a family, that would be me, my mom and my two kids. He looked the other way the time my bathing suit top fell off
as I was climbing back into the panga. He always got nervous when I'd go over board to take care of business, "What are you doin? Sharks come!"
He's the only one I didn't get mad at the year I showed up weighing a little more than usual, "Paulina, why you so fat?" Pepe has seen me grow up.
Herman on the other hand wasn't so kind, so I didn't talk to him for a few days.
Herman doesn't like Pepe and Pepe knows it, so every year at New Years Eve Pepe likes to torment him just a tad by standing by me. There have been
years when Herman has stormed off, but he's getting better. This year as I said, Herman left early, so there wasn't any drama.
Sharks, That is a great photo of Hector and Sunshine. Probably the earliest photo of the loving couple that I've seen. They used to be low on the
cactus, but when their hats kept disappearing we raised them up using an extension ladder. They still had fur and ears back then. Two summers ago Dern
and I took them down to give them a face lift, meaning we re-wired their jaws on and wired them back to the cactus. Unfortunatly Sunshine didn't fare
very well and disappeared. We've looked for a new friend for Hector, but since the Diaz ranch isn't as busy as it once was we haven't found any more
donkey heads out in the cow grave yard. When Shari made her post about eating burro, I instantly thought of where we can find a new girlfriend for
Hector!
Shari, maybe when you come for your family reunion over Semana Santa you can bring a lady friend to share the view with Hector? ja ja ja. We should be
there working on our collumns at that same time.
He does look rather lonely...
P<*)))>{
\"Well behaved women rarely make history.\" Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
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oladulce
Super Nomad
Posts: 1625
Registered: 5-30-2005
Location: bcs
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Peeing in a pot hole sounds dangerous - I'm imagining this taking place on the hwy?? But I'll try it by golly, if means I can finally keep my feet
dry.
I'd like permission to adopt your lingo and next time will say "I quaded to the store".
Even one of your "average " trips is full of adventures and colorful characters and they're certainly fun to read.
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Paulina
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3810
Registered: 8-31-2002
Location: BCN
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Oladulce,
Peeing in a pothole is a tradition that started when the road from the Parador (hwy) to Bahia was really bad. Now it takes 45 min. to get to town from
the turn off, back when it was really bad it took over an hour and a half. I figured if I pee'd in enough of them I would eventually fill them up and
the road would be much smoother. You definately would keep your feet dry and be doing a civil service at the same time. I know that Debra
(travelpearl) had tried it.
You may use the word "quaded" any time. It's a friendly verb.
P<*)))>{
\"Well behaved women rarely make history.\" Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
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BAJACAT
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Location: NATIONAL CITY, CA
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Paulina what hector is looking for in a date, I have somebody for him but he will have to wait a little longer, you see still not death yet.
BAJA IS WHAT YOU WANTED TO BE, FUN,DANGEROUS,INCREDIBLE, REMOTE, EXOTIC..JUST GO AND HAVE FUN.....
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Hector & Sunshine over time...
Summer, 2003
New Years, 2004
New Years, 2005
October, 2005
November, 2006
Last week, poor Hector was still all alone!
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6342
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
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Mood: TEQUILA!
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Hola Paulina!
My sincerest appreciation of your narrative of how life in Baja starts.
What a great view!
I'm jealous!
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Natalie Ann
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2819
Registered: 8-22-2003
Location: Berkeley
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Paulina
I can’t wait for the day when I don’t have to leave Bahia until I want to.....
[Edited on 9-1-2009 by Paulina] |
A really fun report as always, Paulina... but this sentence was the one that touched my heart.
I am soooo familiar with that feeling of not wanting to leave Baja. Sometimes I awake to stories like yours and feel like I haven't left at all.
Thank you.
Nena
Be yourself, everyone else is already taken.
.....Oscar Wilde
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