vseasport
Nomad
Posts: 322
Registered: 2-28-2009
Location: Buena Vista, BCS
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Is it safe to visit the East Cape?
Diving at Cabo Pulmo yesterday was nothing short of spectacular! With flat seas and clear water we were able to look down on El Bajo from the
panga.....not a usual occurence at this time of year. We descended at the north end and I was immediately struck by how many Yellowtail Surgeonfish
were present, thinking that this must bode well for the rest of the dive I turned and recognised the same look of excitement and eager anticipation in
our divers eyes! Right on cue a Diamond Stingray lifted off the sand and swam past us, rapidly making it's exit. Another was found within a minute,
this one resting next to the reef underneath voluminous plumes of Yellow Snapper and Panamic Porkfish, billowing in the oncoming current whilst
illuminating the surrounding area with their vibrant effervescence. Occasionally the clouds would part and a huge Gulf Grouper would be sitting there,
majestically surveying the scene before him whilst legions of Dog Snapper patrolled the waters high above his head. Burrito Grunts formed a chainmail
wall of impenetrable shimmering gold, Leopard and Golden Grouper were bossing a different area of the reef further south, a solitary Guitarfish hid
out under a ledge.
Back onboard the panga my divers were rapturous in their praise, remarking that never had they seen such variety and huge numbers of fish. Skipper,
Juan Diego Romero, was clearly enjoying their enthusiasm and took us over to see the Mantas leaping in their thousands; like everyone who sees this
amazing site, they were lost for words. When I say "everyone" you may get the impression that we were joined by many other boats, a bit like on safari
in Africa; well here we sat in total silence without another person in site for miles around...only in Cabo Pulmo!
Time then for our second dive at El Cantil and with high expectations we made our way onto the reef. I always know when there are sharks about and
today was no different, the hairs on the back of my neck and arms raise up and my senses are heightened so when a 6 - 7 feet Bull Shark appeared out
the corner of my eye I wasn't at all surprised! On three separate occasions he came in close to check us out, my divers were well and truly buzzing as
they gulped down the air from their tanks, blown away by just how varied and exciting the Sea of Cortez can be! Aside from the multitudes of Graybar
Grunt and Dog Snapper also seen on this dive, we also found an Octopus hiding out in a small hole on top of the reef. It's curious eye peered out at
us, it flashed it's colours to warn us to back off, so respectfully we did just that.
As we made our way back along the coastline, nonchalently passing some Humpback Whales along the way, our guests mentioned how they almost didn't come
to Mexico this year, put off by all the negative press and reports of drug wars and shootings. Here on the East Cape of Baja, we live in a veritable
safe haven, an oasis of calm far removed from the troubles other parts of Mexico undoubtedly have. Don't just take our word for it, check out this
link for an unbiased, informative view.
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/outposts/2009/03/mexicos-dru...
Archive of Vista Sea Sport past reports are at:
http://web.me.com/vseasport/VISTA_SEA_SPORT/DIVE_REPORT/DIVE...
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oxxo
Banned
Posts: 2347
Registered: 5-17-2006
Location: Wherever I am, I'm there
Member Is Offline
Mood: If I was feeling any better, I'd be twins!
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Thank you! Wonderful word pictures. I need to get recertified!
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bajatorres
Junior Nomad
Posts: 51
Registered: 9-11-2003
Location: Buenavista, BCS
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Terrific description, felt like I was there. Oh, I am....
I meant underwater with you.
You are right about the safety here. I am asked all the time by friends and family "What's going on with Mexico?", I can only answer that it is not
going on here.
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Paulclark
Nomad
Posts: 357
Registered: 10-13-2008
Location: Castillo de Arena
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Thanks for the description and communicating the feeling of safety and security. We live just south of Pulmo in Castill de Arena and have never locked
our doors.
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DT.IN.LB.BAJA
Junior Nomad
Posts: 78
Registered: 8-5-2008
Location: Los Barriles, BCS
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Mood: Smiling
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Very nice, Thanks for the excellent writing that made my mind see every word as a picture..
Thanks again!!!
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greta-inbaja
Nomad
Posts: 132
Registered: 7-19-2006
Location: Truckee, CA
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Thanks vseaport, we have been diving cabo pulmo for years and the concentration of life is amazing. Saw tigersharks for the first time last fall. We
had been wavering on bring our dive stuff with us this april. sometimes the vis is marginal then. But you talked us into it. What the water temp these
days?
thanks, greta
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vseasport
Nomad
Posts: 322
Registered: 2-28-2009
Location: Buena Vista, BCS
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Yes, vis is up and down this time of year. A couple of days ago we could see the bottom in 50 ft. Pulmo has so much life you don't need to see very
far. I've been guiding tours there for more than 15 years and it is never disappointing. Recently we have been sighting bull sharks and have heard
others talk about seeing tiger sharks. Also this is the time we normally sight hammerheads. The water is still 68 to 70 degrees at depth but seems
to be warming rapidly. The surface temp is up to 72-73 and our swimming pool has already hit 80 degrees.
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Osprey
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3694
Registered: 5-23-2004
Location: Baja Ca. Sur
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I think that the new markers have benefited the charters and the reef and will continue with regular enforcement (Ojala). I think it is interesting
that the bleaching at Los Arbolitos that killed so much coral also caused a coral plant bloom which has drawn to that part of the reef clouds of fish
that live off those plants. At times I think I see more fish now than when the reef was still alive and growing. Makes me wonder how many times these
cycles played out in all the reefs up and down the east edge of the peninsula over the last few thousands of years.
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