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MarkR.
Newbie
Posts: 24
Registered: 6-4-2009
Location: Martinez, CA
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From SF Bay to Finisterra and back – Advice?
Nomad newbies here and we’re planning a trip down for two weeks in July and hoping to get some insights, suggestions, and answers to some specific
questions. We’ve seen people here asking for input but then not giving enough information about their background, their plans, what they’re looking
for, what actives they enjoy, so I’m going to risk giving too much information – sorry in advance for how verbose this might get…
Ok, first a little about us: I hadn’t really ever been to Mexico (other than a few stops on cruises - so had never really been to Mexico) until 5
years ago – and haven’t got further south than Guadalupe Valley -- but my wife (LisaR.) has been going to Mexico since she was a kid. And mostly only
as far south as Ensenada but 8 or 9 years ago she and girlfriend drove down as far as Bahia Concepcion.
For the five years we’ve been together, Lisa as been talking about driving further down Baja. And last month when we were trying to figure out what
to do for this summer’s vacation, again Lisa said lets drive on down into Baja. Now we had just stopped in Cabo/ Mazatlan/Porta Vallarta on a cruise
in April so our appetites were wet for Mexico. And I had just read “The Log from the Sea of Cortez” so when Lisa said lets go this year I was ready
to say lets do it.
As we’re only going to have two weeks we decided that this would be a “survey” trip: drive all the way down and back; not staying anywhere very long
and find the places we’ll want to come back to in the future. We’re not “resort people” but not really “camp on the beach for two weeks of fishing
people” either, so we’re planning on inexpensive hotels – we’re bringing camp gear but more as a precaution. What we’ll be looking for are great
beaches, good easy snorkeling, easy kayaking, great vistas, history, and our favorite Mexican activates: eating/shopping/drinking!
I’m a little concerned about the heat (hey, I’m from Alaska, I left twenty years ago but my blood is still awfully thick), I’ve got family in
Bakersfield, CA have spent plenty of time in that summer heat so I think I’ll be able to hang – but three years ago we went to Playa del Carmen for
our honeymoon in July and heat there about killed me – I’m hoping the “dry” Baja heat will be a little easier to take.
Ok, what we have planned to far:
- Leave Bay Area Friday afternoon and spend the night somewhere south of LA.
- Cross border in the morning, stopping to get tourist cards, and Saturday night in Ensenada
- On to El Rosario Sunday - La Bufadora , Santo Tomas on the way. Maybe Baja Cactus Sunday night
- Monday morning, Mission and museum in El Rosario de Abajo then on to Bahia de Los Angeles – thinking maybe Costa del Sol – stay two nights.
- Wednesday morning leave BoLA (we’re figuring with a heavy heart) head to Mulege or Bahia Concepcion for two nights
- Head down to La Paz Friday stay two nights
- Sunday do the “Cabo Loop” - stop in Todos Santos, passing by Cabo San Lucas, stay the night in San Jose del Cabo
And that’s about all we’re sure about. We need to be back in San Diego by the Saturday.
Now for some questions:
1) Last time Lisa was in Ensenada she just drove up Ave. Lopez Mateos and found a cheap room with no problem – is that still likely on a Saturday
afternoon mid-July?
2) BoLA: Will we have any problems renting Kayaks? We’re thinking of Costa del Sol but not set on it – just looking for inexpensive, A/C, walking
distance to tacos & beer, and bay view – what do you all think?
3) Mulege/Bahia Concepcion: This is our biggest question. Lisa was absolutely taken with the Bahia Concepcion when she saw it last. She has been
going on about the color of the water for years. We would love to stay on the bay itself, but options seem pretty limited, unless we camp (we’d
rather not). We had planned on Hotel San Buenaventura, but after that whole turtle thing, we’re wondering if that is a good idea… Are there any
other options that we haven’t heard about? (Bob and Susan, Playa Frambes sounds amazing, but it is out of our price range). What do you guys know
about Campo Los Naranjos? Casa Granada and Serenidad (glad to hear the fire didn’t close it down!), do they overlook the bay itself, or more the
estuary? Any ideas would be appreciated…
4) La Paz: We’re thinking Hotel Perla. Will we have a problem getting a room there on a Friday night if we don’t have reservations (we’re reluctant
to make reservations, because we like the option of flexibility in our plans—for example, what if we JUST CAN’T LEAVE BoLA after 2 nights?) Anybody
have a great second choice, or other suggestions for us?
5) And just any top MUST SEES, MUST DO any one wants to share for anywhere along the route.
Ok, I’ll leave this here for now – and again, sorry about the verbosity – I’m sure we’ll be back with more questions. We’re really (really, really)
looking forward to this trip and want to get the absolute most out of it.
Thanks in advance for your expert advice!
Mark y Lisa R.
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
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Mood: undecided
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MarkR. Just take your time and enjoy the journey. Throw that schedule away.
Expert? Not by any stretch of he imagination but have been there a time or two.
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bajajudy
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6886
Registered: 10-4-2004
Location: San Jose del Cabo,BCS
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You must like to drive
However, I see nothing wrong with any of your plans. I would not stay in La Perla in La Paz but there is nothing wrong with the place.
After all that driving, I would suggest that you rest at La Playita, er, La Marina hotel in Pueblo de La Playa while in San Jose. It is just across
the arroyo from town and right on the ocean. There is a protected area for swimming in the SOC(as long as it is not sat or sun, you will have the
place to yourself most of the day) or a pool at the hotel. There is, also, Yuca Inn in town which is under $30 a night. I believe that you could
walk into either of these places and get a room. They both know where we are, so ask for directions and stop in to see me.
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LisaR.
Nomad
Posts: 121
Registered: 6-3-2009
Location: Chapala, Jalisco
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Thanks, bajajudy!
We have never been to La Paz, so we were basing La Perla on guide books. Where would you stay, instead?
(BTW, Mark bought some Baja books from you a few weeks ago!)
--Lisa
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comitan
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4177
Registered: 3-27-2004
Location: La Paz
Member Is Offline
Mood: mellow
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Yes throw the schedule away, its a Big, mistake, just take it day by day, there are plenty of places to stay wherever you go. You'/ll enjoy your trip
much better.
Strive For The Ideal, But Deal With What\'s Real.
Every day is a new day, better than the day before.(from some song)
Lord, Keep your arm around my shoulder and your hand over my mouth.
“The sincere pursuit of truth requires you to entertain the possibility that everything you believe to be true may in fact be false”
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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The situation right now is that it is unlikely you will not find accomodations just about anywhere. There are a handfull of places that still fill up.
But they are the exception. The plan to drive from BOLA to Mulege or Loreto is a long day driving. Since you have two weeks, you might wish to
consider stopping at Guerrero Negro or San Ignacio. Serenidad, from all that has been posted is open and looking for business. I am in league with you
on the price situation. Problem with Bob and Susan's place is that they are best for larger groups. A couple traveling together doesn't need all that
space, nor the price that comes with it. Interesting to encounter your post because I had thought about writing to them with a suggestion that they
add a couple of smaller accomodations at a more affordable rate for couples.
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bajajudy
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6886
Registered: 10-4-2004
Location: San Jose del Cabo,BCS
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Lorimar is a clean, cheap place. On Nicholas Bravo just behind Appleby's 2 blocks. That is a one way street toward the malecon, so you will have to
do a circle to get there.
Please stop in if you get to San Jose. We are on the road to La Playa(look for signs to Puerto Los Cabos)
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LisaR.
Nomad
Posts: 121
Registered: 6-3-2009
Location: Chapala, Jalisco
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I'm glad that we shouldn't have trouble finding rooms (I mean, I'm sorry for the economy and tourist industry, but you know what I mean...)
Bajahowodd, I know it is a long drive from BOLA to Mulegé, but I have stopped in GN before, and outside of whale season, there isn't much to see.
We're planning on stopping in San Ignacio on the way back. I stayed there for a night 8 years ago, and it was a cute town (the missions is
gorgeous!). I know that 2 weeks sounds like a long time, but we really want to maximize out time in the best places...and Mulegé is one of those! I
promise not to drive at night, though!
As far as the schedule...it is more of a rough plan than anything that we feel compelled to follow. If we absolutely love it somewhere, then we just
won't leave. The problem is, we are likely to just love it many places, and we do have to be home in time for Mark to be back at work on the Monday
following. 
Bajajudy, we will try to look you up if we make it down that far!
Thanks,
Lisa
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dtbushpilot
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3296
Registered: 1-11-2007
Location: Buena Vista BCS
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Mood: Tranquilo
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After BOLA you might give Asuncion (my choice) or Campo Rene on the Pacific side a try before heading on to Mulege. Bahia Conception, La Paz and Cabo
will be hot in July. I find that my "low blood alcohol" condition flares up in the summer but fortunately there is no shortage of blood thinner in
Baja. Throw out the schedule, take your time and have fun. Be sure to take lots of pictures to share with your new Nomad friends....dt
"Life is tough".....It's even tougher if you're stupid.....
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LisaR.
Nomad
Posts: 121
Registered: 6-3-2009
Location: Chapala, Jalisco
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Thanks, dt. I like the "blood thinner" plan. I'm a great believer in "anytime it's too hot, it's beer-thirty."
I grew up in So. California, plus spent a decade in Sacramento, so I'm not nearly as worried about the heat as Mark. I may have to do all the driving
and administer a ballena muy fria to him every half-hour.
That's a good thought about heading over to the Pacific side after BOLA. We'll have to look into it. We've read alot about Ascuncion here on the
forum and it sounds great!
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Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8813
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
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Mood: Full Time Residents
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Really sorry you can’t afford our place for your vacation
but thanks for considering us…
We do have a 3-day rental minimum.
We provide a FULL breakfast…you’ll be FULL!!!
The showers are clean and BIG…no flip flops required.
The bedding is ALWAYS clean and smells like it.
Lots of room inside.
We have 5 kayaks that we let guests use…no rental fees
We have a 15-foot “bay-boat” guests can also use…no fee
Its hobie season…water is warm…
Susan is taking and teaching people sailing…no fee
The pool water is really clean…we swim in it…
others in Baja may NOT be…think about that…
We can do a load of wash for 50 pesos…washed and folded…that’s $3.70usa
Beer (Pacifico) is 10 pesos that’s 75 cents (usa) each for guests.
It really boils down to what you’re looking for in a vacation.
Swimming
Kayaking
Boating
Lay by the pool and read
Eat
Drink
I think a flight from LAX to Loreto for $409 each (today) is a lot of money…
But…
people do it ALL the time, they travel in groups of 2 or more and come from all over the USA and Canada
Then…
they rent a car $$$
The Serenidad has a special for $49 a night…
it’s good deal for the “old lady”
But its on the river and you pay for breakfast
The Orchard advertises $39 a night for the rental casita there.
Our units don’t compare with these places.
It’s like apples and oranges.
If you aren’t hauling a trailer behind the car
the drive from ensenada to mulege is an easy 12 hours
Mulege to El Rosario is 7 hours
Oh yea … we have air conditioning NOW!!!
Sorry no smoking …maybe a cigar (outside)…if it smells good
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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No question that a schedule is not what you want when traveling Baja. I'm facing the same thing later this week. I know full well, that once I leave
Guerrero Negro ( or for that matter Asuncion), I'm in for a blast of heat. A slight respite as you hit Insurgentes and Constitucion, but quickly back
into the furnace. Bob & Susan. Nice ad. Seriously, if I was traveling with a group, you would be my first choice in the Mulege area. Perhaps
someday. And yes. Congrats on what a wonderful job you guys have done.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 65407
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Have an idea or a plan of places you want to see... but be very flexible so if you find a spot that you just got to stay longer at, you can.
Many Nomads are into fishing, and Bahia Asuncion is a fisheman's paradise... Bahia de los Angeles is another... However, you are in luck, because if
you don't need to go out on a boat and fish to be happy, there are many other sites and points of interest to see and do in Baja.
Bahia Asuncion has Shari and Juan who will show you the sites and provide hospitality and comfy accomodations, and L.A. Bay has many places to stay.
The Costa del Sol is not on the water, but the Villa Bahia is, north of town. Check out the options... See Mia's web site http://bahiadelosangeles.info to see the motels and other services there.
Have a fun time and relax... See the missions! When you leave Bahia de los Angele, consider detouring through Mision San Borja! It is about 20 miles
shorter... but not paved. It is a good 2WD dirt road through beautiful boojum country. Bedman took some nice photos of the mission when we all went
there in 2002, is L.A. Bay area pics are also included: http://vivabaja.com/bedman2
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wilderone
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3894
Registered: 2-9-2004
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Depending on your vehicle, you may want to consider going to Mission San Borja after BOLA - the back way. You need a little clearance in some places,
but doable. You could easily spend a couple nights there. There are nice camping spots with BBQ grills, the mission, hiking, the warm springs,
visiting with the family, pictograph tour, birding.
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MarkR.
Newbie
Posts: 24
Registered: 6-4-2009
Location: Martinez, CA
Member Is Offline
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David K/wilderone - yes we'll definitely plan on Mission San Borja on the way out of BOLA - thanks! We'll be driving a 2W Hyundai Tucson so we
should ok, right?
Now is a drive from BOLA, via San Borja, and on to Shari’s in Asuncion doable in a day? Everyone’s saying we need to see Asuncion so we’re think’en
we need to fit it in. But unfortunately probably only a night but we’ll see.
Thanks everyone for all the great help! Nomads are some of the coolest folks around.
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wilderone
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3894
Registered: 2-9-2004
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A Tucson will be fine. I did it in a Kia Sportage. Yes, you could probably do it in a looong day - but why would you want to do that? Spend the
night at San Borja and enjoy it. It's a welcome oasis after your back-country drive, and the pictograph site is pretty special if you're into that
sort of thing. The drive from San Borja to Rosarito/Hwy. 1 takes at least an hour. You might want to stop off at Laguna Manuela before hitting
Asuncion. Very nice coastal hike to secluded coves and sea lions. You could finish in Guerrero Negro at a hotel and some excellent food there, then on
to Asuncion in the AM.
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8088
Registered: 7-12-2004
Location: Bahia Asuncion
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As a few others have brought up the heat in July will be unbelievable. You'll find yourself wanting to either be in an AC room, or car, or submerged
in water. The cortez in late july and august is not like the LA area. Moving about in daytime hours can be draining. I'm not sure going to San Borja
is such a good idea except for the drive itself (or at least start off early in the morning, or reach it in evening hours). The Pacific side may not
have the beauty of the cortez but at least the temps will be in the low 80's.
Bring lots of liquids and plan to move from one AC motel to another once south of Santa Rosalia.
Oh yes. And get all your papers at the Discovery club before leaving to save time. And spend your first night as close to the border as possible so as
to get a start as early as possible.
[Edited on 6-22-2009 by Skipjack Joe]
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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Ditto on that. Very hot on the Cortez side. And with what appears to be a tropical storm/ Hurricane wannabe Andres, humidity could just add to the
fun. That being said, I have a great personal affinity for the stretch of Highway one from Santa Rosalia to Tripui. Some of the most gorgeous scenery
in the world.
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LisaR.
Nomad
Posts: 121
Registered: 6-3-2009
Location: Chapala, Jalisco
Member Is Offline
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Uhhh... What papers? And what is the Discovery club?
We were planning on stopping at the border for tourist cards, are we missing something? Or are you just messin' with the newbies? I've been driving
down to Baja since the '80's...Is there something I should have known all this time? 
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rhintransit
Super Nomad
Posts: 1588
Registered: 9-4-2006
Location: Loreto
Member Is Offline
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dry heat? I have a home in Phoenix, that's dry heat.
I have a palapa on the beach south of Loreto, that's wet heat. July could be really hot and humid, particularly on the Sea of Cortez side.
not to discourage you, come on down, you'll have a great time, but you will want air conditioning in the evenings and cold showers. I'd probably
forget about camping unless you do like roughing it in heat and humidity.
reality\'s never been of much use out here...
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