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Food and Wine Fiesta Season Underway in Baja California
http://www.mexidata.info/id2317.html
by Steve Dryden
June 29, 2009
The annual Guateque del Vino Artesanal wine event is probably the most enthusiastic and “down to earth” wine country event held each year in Valle de
Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico. The focus is on emerging winemakers, beginners, artisans, home-brewers, small operations and intermediate-level
producers.
This year’s event was enhanced with the use of the new multi-use activity center generously provided by Viña de Liceaga, in San Antonio de las Minas.
The overall event planning was brilliantly orchestrated by Leonardo Lizárraga and friends. It is remarkable to note that these events continue to
advance and improve vastly with each season. The food venues, ticket sales, parking, sanitation, stage, live music, dancing area, gazebos, security,
and table settings made for a fun, family-oriented event. One obvious element was that you could really feel the “enthusiasm and spirit” as you
approached the grounds, filled with a diverse mix of people, micro-brewed beers, regional culinary delights and newly produced wines.
Two interesting features this year were a nice presentation of regional micro-brewed beers (cervezas), and an abundance of Zinfandel wine. Labricha
Cerveza Artesanal had an excellent table presentation with a fine selection of handcrafted beer, staffed with knowledgeable personnel. Their
Monasterio Stout is smooth, full-bodied, with hints of coffee and smoke flavors that would pair-up nicely with oven-baked lamb and many mole dishes.
In addition, they make palate-pleasing light honey ale, bright golden in color, clean, refreshing, with floral aromas, ending with a smooth finish
with a hint of ginger. I’d love to match this brew with carne asada, or shrimp in coconut milk sauce. Alvaro Alvarez and Hortensia Riesgo, brew-master
and winemaker, have been focused on creating premium-handcrafted beer in Ensenada since 1992.
Zinfandel seems to be a “rising star” among the artisan winemaking movement. One reason for the presence of Zinfandel, is that there was a small
surplus left over last season that made its way to the artisans and smaller producers who purchase grapes from growers.
Pau Pijoan, of Viñas Pijoan, empowered one of his beautiful daughters and her friends to pour his Mare, a 100% Zinfandel that was a “stand-out” (the
wine) at this event.
Another notable Zinfandel poured is being produced by Agosto. This 2008 Zinfandel is a team effort by Laura Chanes, Monica Chanes, Gloria Guisa and
Juan Antonio Fernandez. Laura Chanes was a fellow graduate of mine at the “world renowned” La Escuelita, the artisan winemaking school in El Porvenir,
Valle de Guadalupe. She is one of many women in Mexico who are taking part in our emerging wine industry with great results and progress. A 2007
Zinfandel from Serena is another prime example of the potential of Zinfandel in the region.
Word-of-mouth evaluation from guests seemed to favor a dynamic wine from Encino, a 2007 Tempranillo, aged 12 months in new oak, made from 30 year-old
vines from San Vicente. Several emails received after the event indicated that many folks loved the wines of Alximia, created by Alvaro Alvarez
Parrilla. Others mentioned the wine of Albert Cruz, of El Parral Hotel and Viñdeo, and several commented on all the wines from the Tres Mujeres
Winery. Many wine lovers were also impressed with the wines from Jay Dworsky and his business partner Charles.
One winery I discovered, while enjoying their wine and enthusiasm, was Utopia, operated by Dr. Joel Velasco and his business partner. Their wine is
actually made in the basement of a hospital in Ensenada, so it’s sure to be created in the most sanitary environment and with surgical precision.
Their wines are very good. These two winemakers are very typical of the Mexican and American winemakers in this region that have recently embraced the
world of making wine. They are mellow in nature, but intensely focused on creating premium wine in Mexico, using handcrafted, limited production
styles. You can feel this excitement and pride in the air as you speak with them and taste their wine. For them, it’s almost like introducing the
world to your first newborn child, when you showcase your newest wines to the public. 2007 Utopia is a magical blend of Petite Sirah, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot. Their current production is limited to three American oak barrels of wine, using grapes from Valle de Guadalupe.
Two American winemakers, new to the Mexican wine culture, Jay Dworsky and Charles, introduced their first vintage of Petit Verdot and a superb blend
of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, both aged in new Minnesota Nadalie oak barrels. According to Jay, “It has been a labor of love and the
experience has been very fulfilling for both Charles and me.”
Another winemaking couple based in San Diego was invited because their winery shares the same name of the event, Guateque. They create one barrel of
handcrafted wine each year, and they poured generous samples of a delightful 2007 Syrah and 2005 Pinot Noir. Currently there are ten US citizens
making wine in Mexico.
When you put this wine event into proper perspective, acknowledging that these dedicated, artisan and smaller producers, with limited resources and
training, are making a diverse mixture of drinkable wines, it’s very impressive. Indeed, some of the winemakers from this event and local winemaking
schools have moved up the chain and are now known nationally for their artisan and boutique wines.
In reality, Mexico’s wine industry is still emerging in quality and production, but it is an exciting time as the industry evolves. Due to the low
production of wine, and with a growing national market for regional wine, many artisan winemakers are having success in selling their products.
Handcrafted wines have the advantage of bringing the consumer the “bottled spirit and passion” of the individual winemakers, and their intimate
relationship to the vines and land. As we grow and gain experience with our craft, we offer great value for the quality, and a personal expression in
the art of making small quantities of wine.
Several regional food venues were also present with an abundance of gourmet delights for this event, including Capricho’s and Casa Plasencia. There
was Tres Misiones Cheese and Olive Oil, and Cafe Tomas, Bodegas del Arte and Hogaza pastries.
Overall, the event organizers artfully blended a combination of wine, cerveza, food, music, dancing and good times into a successful day in Mexico’s
premium wine country.
Thankfully, Viña de Liceaga came through again as a gracious host for this event. Serious wine and food lovers, please note that as of July 1st
Saverios Restaurant (one of the best in the region) will be setting up their summer tent galley as Asador Campestre, at Liceaga Winery in San Antonio
de las Minas. They’ll be open Tuesdays through Sundays from noon until 10 p.m.
For those winemakers and wineries I didn’t mention in this article, don’t worry, I’ll be featuring several artisan operations in upcoming articles.
Please contact me if you want further coverage of your wines and your passion for the art.
——————————
Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in northwestern Baja California, in the heart of Mexico’s premier wine country, where he also
guides individual and small group wine tours and books lodging. See:
http://www.bajawineandtours.com
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JESSE
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Its a nice event. Last year it got ruined by 110 degree heat and high winds. I arrived, saw older ladies fainting, drank a few warm glasses of wine,
and got the hell out from Mexicali in Guadalupe Valley.
I hope the new wine makers can take the wine industry in Baja out of its current rut. Mediocre wine, high prices, salty products.
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Udo
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Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
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Mood: TEQUILA!
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Jana and I will be attending the festivities at the Fietas De La Vendimia @ Valle De Guadalupe. Plus we are looking forward to our dinner at Laja's.
I'm sure we will see fine wines and even better food.
HOWEVER>>>
US customs considers wine as a bottle of booze. SOOOOO...if we have a choice of bringing back wine or tequila. Tequila wins, hands down!
Sorry, Kathleen! (p.s.) great dinner at Mulle Tres!
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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danaeb
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Location: San Diego; El Centenario
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Hi Jesse - you had a thread a couple of years ago on your favorite wines available in BCS. Do have new ones to share with us? Or wine shops/mercados
in La Paz you'd recommend?
Experience enables you to recognize a mistake every time you repeat it.
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JESSE
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2006 L.A. Cetto Petit Syrah (best vintage ever) $88.00 CCC or Aramburo
2005 Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet $250.00 CCC or Soriana
2005 Manso de Velasco Cabernet $270.00 CCC
2007 Concha y Toro Trio Cabernet blend $160.00 City Club
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danaeb
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Thanks Jesse
Experience enables you to recognize a mistake every time you repeat it.
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