arrowhead
Banned
Posts: 912
Registered: 5-5-2009
Member Is Offline
|
|
Baja 'war zone' can be bonanza for tourists
| Quote: |
Baja 'war zone' can be bonanza for tourists
As we drive through a military roadblock, a young machine gun-toting Mexican marine shouts in Spanish for us to slow down while a half dozen other
heavily-armed marines watch, but we are waved through after I utter the affirmative "Claro," which means "Certainly!" or "Of course!" This is our
welcome to the Baja battleground, just 30 miles south of San Diego.
Most tourists would find this encounter scary, what with the press reports of massive drug cartel violence, but where else can anyone find a beautiful
ocean-front apartment fully equipped for $19.95 a night, and a lobster dinner complete with margaritas for $15?
The world-famous Rosarito Beach Hotel had about 20 guests during our visit, and this brave handful did bond into a tight group - the "few, the proud,
the Baja touristias," we joked over poolside drinks.
The rewards of Baja are endless. La Bufadora, a two-hour drive farther south, has one of the world's greatest sea blow-holes. But beware, lining the
road to the blow-hole are lines of shops where fake (and technically illegal) brand-name purses or prescription drugs are sold.
There are no hotels in La Bufadora, but Naomy Torres Lopez offers one of the finest views in Baja at Cantu, 10 minutes down the peninsula, where the
two-bedroom master suite of her Naomy's Mini Motel looks out on the bay from a huge deck overlooking a private beach. And the price is half what you
would pay at any Motel 6 north of the border.
As everywhere in Baja, the people are very friendly. Naomy offered my wife the use of her laptop computer. Her daughter modeled a head of beautiful,
never-cut hair.
Across the street is Sharkey's, one of the best bars anywhere in Baja, where locals and occasional tourists gather not only to drink, but have great
dinners at a fraction of American prices.
Dale, owner of La Bufadora Dive, said the economic slump and fears of violence has meant a huge drop in tourists. "Two years ago I'd make $2,000 a
weekend, and now we are lucky to make $40," said Dale over a beer.
An American, he has lived in Baja with his beautiful Mexican wife, Martha, for 31 years. They own a bay-view home, and rent a real estate office, two
apartments and a newly planned restaurant in the seaside town. On the way back from La Bufudora, at a supermarket, a truckload of Mexican Army troops
go by crouched behind stacked tires for protection, all pointing automatic weapons outward.
They are ready for any instant firefight. Shoppers pay no attention as a loudspeaker blasts loud Mexican hip hop.
Supermarket prices actually are higher than north of the border, a real hardship in an area where unemployment nears 40 percent and pay is meager for
those who do have jobs.
Father south, Ensenada has grown from a sleepy fishing port into a large city with huge traffic jams and American restaurants like McDonald's and
Applebees.
The old flavor of the city is gone. There are numerous trailer parks, but many are almost deserted.
There is a feeling of despair for those remaining "gringos" who are trying to sell unwanted trailers or homes.
On a Saturday night the biggest hotel south of Ensenada, Estero Beach, had no bar customers at 7 p.m. Nearby El Faro beach is like a ghost town as
trailers and homes stand vacant.
The Baja coast drive, except for a half-hour traffic snarl in Ensenada, is one of the world's most scenic. And the threat of violence and warfare
seems to melt away with the bubbles in the hot tub as the sun sets over a roaring surf at the Rosarito Beach Hotel.
A British couple, two of the few non-U.S. citizens in the pool area, know of the press stories of mayhem, but they say sip margaritas in the glow of
sunset and say they love Baja. With vigilant around-the-clock security, the historic Rosarito Beach Hotel is probably one of the safest and certainly
one of the cheapest luxury hotels anywhere on Earth.
It also is one of the most famous, with a long list of movie stars, kings and presidents who stayed and played there in happier times.
Happy times still can be found here. Where else can you sleep in an ocean-front condo, wake up to a bountiful breakfast, enjoy a fish taco lunch, and
later a lobster dinner overlooking the waves - all for $35 a person?
Forest Falls resident Richard David Boyle first visited Baja in 1960. He wrote the screenplay for "Salvador," filmed in 1985 in Mexico by director
Oliver Stone. Boyle worked on the set, instructing Mexican soldiers how to portray Salvadoran fighters. The movie was Oscar-nominated for best
screenplay and best actor, James Woods, who portrayed Boyle as a war correspondent in El Salvador
|
http://www.sgvtribune.com/living/ci_13481689
No soy por ni contra apatía.
|
|
|
DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
Member Is Offline
|
|
That's a pretty good article. Accurate and not a sales pitch like so many others.
|
|
|
Martyman
Super Nomad
Posts: 1904
Registered: 9-10-2004
Member Is Offline
|
|
Groceries are cheaper in Ensenada than Northern California. At least 30% cheaper.
[Edited on 11-17-2009 by Martyman]
|
|
|
JESSE
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3370
Registered: 11-5-2002
Member Is Offline
|
|
This is a pretty good time to travel all over Baja. Already this October we are seeing a very good spike in vacationers here in La Paz.
|
|
|
Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
Member Is Offline
|
|
Good for you, Jesse, and for La Paz. However, while La Paz may share the recession woes with the border region, it certainly doesn't share the real
and perceived violence. Way more potential tourists will avoid the TJ- Ensenada corridor than will avoid La Paz. At the same time, as the article
notes, huge bargains are available. Probably not quite to the same degree in La Paz.
The article was generally pro-Baja. Too bad it was published in a small circulation regional paper.
[Edited on 10-8-2009 by Bajahowodd]
|
|
|
DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
Member Is Offline
|
|
| Quote: | Originally posted by JESSE
This is a pretty good time to travel all over Baja. Already this October we are seeing a very good spike in vacationers here in La Paz.
|
Really good to hear that news. Hope it continues. BCS is a good place to be. 
|
|
|
DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
Member Is Offline
|
|
| Quote: | Originally posted by Bajahowodd
The article was generally pro-Baja.
|
Yes, it is. But, not to a "stck my finger down my throat" sense. More objective.
|
|
|
Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
Member Is Offline
|
|
I probably shouldn't quibble, but either someone edited the crap out of the piece, or the screenwriter- author shows he's not all that good writing
prose. style and form would earn him a C- at best.
|
|
|
Frank
Senior Nomad
Posts: 861
Registered: 6-5-2005
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
Mood: Is it time to leave yet?
|
|
Its not the fear of violence thats keeping us at home, its the economy. I wish I had some extra $ to spread around...
|
|
|
Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
Member Is Offline
|
|
But, would you be spending that money in Tijuana?
|
|
|
k-rico
Super Nomad
Posts: 2079
Registered: 7-10-2008
Location: Playas de Tijuana
Member Is Offline
|
|
| Quote: | Originally posted by Martyman
Groceries are not cheaper in Ensenada than Northern California. At least 30% cheaper. |
Martyman, is there a typo somewhere in those two sentences?
The article said groceries are more expensive in Mexico. Sure, it depends upon what you buy, but generally the food we buy is cheaper in Mexico.
A few days ago my wife came home with about 25 grapefruit. Sweet ones too. Get this, 1 peso per kilo. I guess the store was dumping them. I'm getting
tired of grapefruit juice.
|
|
|
Frank
Senior Nomad
Posts: 861
Registered: 6-5-2005
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
Mood: Is it time to leave yet?
|
|
| Quote: | Originally posted by Bajahowodd
But, would you be spending that money in Tijuana? |
Only if I got pulled over 
|
|
|
rogerj1
Nomad
Posts: 265
Registered: 4-29-2004
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Member Is Offline
|
|
I'd love to hear about some of the good bargains floating around. It would make it worth a quick trip down.
|
|
|
Martyman
Super Nomad
Posts: 1904
Registered: 9-10-2004
Member Is Offline
|
|
| Quote: | Originally posted by k-rico
| Quote: | Originally posted by Martyman
Groceries are not cheaper in Ensenada than Northern California. At least 30% cheaper. |
Martyman, is there a typo somewhere in those two sentences?
|
You are right k-rico. I wrote the opposite of what I meant. Groceries are cheaper in baja then cal
|
|
|
DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
Member Is Offline
|
|
| Quote: | Originally posted by Martyman
You are right k-rico. I wrote the opposite of what I meant. Groceries are cheaper in baja then cal |
Domestic products are. Imported products arn't. Stands to reason, right? Transportation, duty and all that stuff.
|
|
|
Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
Member Is Offline
|
|
Therein lies the problem with ex-pats and tourists who crave their brand name products from NOB. If you're willing to forego your Nathan's hot dogs,
you'll be fine.
|
|
|
bajabass
Super Nomad
Posts: 2016
Registered: 10-4-2006
Location: La Paz,BCS
Member Is Offline
Mood: Want to fish!!!
|
|
Being in La Mision only on weekends, I can bring the things I really think I need. I hate stopping for food in Rosarito, and almost never go to
Ensenada. The list of things to bring keeps getting smaller though. I can get almost everything I need at the little markets on the free road in La
Mision. Beer, Bacardi, eggs, tortillas, drinking water, coffee, ect. The prices are much lower on most things as compared to here in O.C. For some
reason they all taste better as well! I think I spend more, on average, at the tackle shop than at Ralph's.
|
|
|
bajabass
Super Nomad
Posts: 2016
Registered: 10-4-2006
Location: La Paz,BCS
Member Is Offline
Mood: Want to fish!!!
|
|
Oh, the local mechants seem to really appreciate the business also. The traffic in the area seems to be picking up. I hope it continues. There are
several good real estate options, as prices have dropped steadily in the area I am in. Some great, but slightly risky deals in the ejido where I rent
a house and lease a lot for my future home. Awesome views for a couple grand a year!
|
|
|
Woooosh
Banned
Posts: 5240
Registered: 1-28-2007
Location: Rosarito Beach
Member Is Offline
Mood: Luminescent Waves at Rosarito Beach
|
|
| Quote: | Originally posted by rogerj1
I'd love to hear about some of the good bargains floating around. It would make it worth a quick trip down. |
I don't know wher they found a lobster dinner with margaritas for $15. Anyone know?
\"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing\"
1961- JFK to Canadian parliament (Edmund Burke)
|
|
|
![[*]](images/xmbforum/default_icon.gif){kind=icon}
