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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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GUERRERO NEGRO - 'BLACK WARRIOR'
Guerrero Negro ...named after a ship, the Black Warrior, that ran aground here years ago.
They were going to name the place..Blind-Drunk Captain, but that seemed rude.
Whales at Scammons Lagoon, Malarimmo's, abalone dinners, conch chowder, sea salt, blowing plastic bags, may I see your passport and visa?, do you have
any fruits or vegetables?, pesos to spray insecticide under the car, army barracks, long straight stretches of highway, radar cops, nails strewn on
the highway, wind, and flat desert...all these come to mind.
What do YOU think of when GN comes in view?
Here's a quick run through the area we made around November 2nd or 3rd, 2009.
Me...I always enjoy the FOG around GN (pardon all my abbreviations from now on). Go figure, I also like the winter weather along
the Oregon Coast and Christmas at Goose Bay, Labrador.
Have you ever wondered why you see so MANY BIKERS along this stretch? You no sooner swerve to avoid the ones on the right..when..
Look out, there's another on the left!
And then there was the time Co-pilot was prankish.
I got out to stretch....and got left behind. HEY! COME BACK!!
Coming from the north, you will see this restaurant, store, and RV park. La Espinita...The Thorn...hmm, nice name for this area, eh?
It has, as the sign says...Hazzah!..an Internet cafe... with WIFI.
Co-pilot gets caught up on lutefisk recipes and how to convert lefse to tortillas.
After being followed for about 400 miles, this Green Angel reluctantly gives up on us and passes. You all DO know about the Green
Angels, I assume? Okay then, I thought so.
Here's the monument dividing Baja Norte California from Baja Sur California. Hmm...maybe I'll get one for the North Dakota and South Dakota
border? With an explanation on the south side of course.... 
Not a plug, but just what road-weary travelers can expect...a typical room at the Caracol Motel in GN. Malarrimo's is my favorite of a few
decades.
.
Now you are headed east towards Vizcaino, San Ignacio, Mulege, Loreto, La Paz, and Cabo. IT'S A LONG STRAIGHTAWAY...GO AHEAD!..PUNCH
IT!!..and get a ticket up ahead.
See ya at the police station. 
"Tha-tha-tha ..THAT'S ALL FOLKS!"
We're burning daylight, Pilgrim!...er, Co-pilot.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
Registered: 11-26-2002
Location: Bat Cave
Member Is Offline
Mood: Sling time!
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Roger- - who's driving the truck and the MOHO?
are you trailering the truck?
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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mulegejim
Nomad
Posts: 470
Registered: 9-4-2006
Location: San Clemente, CA/Mulege, BCS
Member Is Offline
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Roger, I usually drive from home in San Clemente, CA straight through to GN, right at 500 miles, so when I see the Eagle and the flag in the distance,
I breathe a sigh of relief and start thinking of a hot shower, a glass or two of vino tinto and dinner at the Malarrimo. I usually arrive about 5:00
or 6:00 PM as it takes me around 11 to 12 hours including any stops. After a good sleep it's off to Mulege early in the AM and arrive around 10:00 AM.
Looking forward to my next trip soon after the Holidays.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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More great stuff Roger... Thanks!
The history of the place name 'La Espinita' is a tad colorful...
Originally located a few miles north of Guerrero Negro...
(from 1962 Lower California Guidebook):
"La Espina (La Espinita), a solitary group of shacks serving as a saloon for salt works employees." 
Mike Humfreville had a good story about another brothel that served Guerrero Negro, a few miles east of town!
FROM FRED METCALF's site where all of Mike Humfreville's stories can be found:
http://math.ucr.edu/ftm/bajaPages/Correspondents/BajaWithMik...
hoar Town ( Posted February 12, 2003 )
Nothing very extraordinary happened during our week-long and accidental stay at Black Warrior in 1974. Our Land Cruiser, La Tortuga, was busted and
in repair. Without a vehicle we had lots of time to kill, walking around town and sitting in small restaurants talking or reading over coffee. I had
always kept a log and that filled my time. Mary Ann read romance novels. I was jealous.
One day, out of boredom, I decided it would be nice to have a bottle of red wine. I had no idea where to find one or even if there was a liquor store
in the town. I left Mary Ann in our room, reading her book, and walked down the side streets to the main thoroughfare into and out of the town, a wide
dirt road. In the center of town was a single, dust covered taxi. I asked the driver if he knew of a store that sold wine and liquor. He certainly did
and immediately gestured for me to get into the cab. I told him I was fine to walk. He said it was too far to walk. He was animated and quick and
insistent that I sit in his cab and be escorted to this store. Seeing no simple alternative, I climbed into the front passenger seat and we took off,
east.
We passed through the salt company part of town and continued through the eastern part and we drove through the dump and straight out of town, under
my constant questioning and his strong assurances that he knew exactly what I needed. We drove to the junction of the transpeninsular highway and,
where the road forked for the northern and southern routes, we went straight, right up the middle.
We intersected the transpeninsular highway at 90 degrees and still we continued east into the desert. We drove several kilometers into an apparent
nothingness. I would have been concerned, but my host was so carefree and casual. After a number of kilometers from the highway I could see a cluster
of buildings in the distance. We entered the odd assemblage of fifteen or twenty one- and two-story structures spread across both sides of the road.
There were men and women crossing the dusty street and coming from and going into the buildings. Many of the buildings had large signs advertising the
availability of beer, music and dancing.
The driver stopped in front of one of these and jumped out and opened my door and with a bow and outstretched arm ushered me inside a dingy cantina.
I'm thinking maybe they sell wines and liquors to go also. No such luck.
We entered a dark, large and windowless room with a bar and number of tables, a scattering of chairs. A number of men and two women stood at the bar,
drinks scattered around. More men and women were sitting around the tables, some playing cards and dice. Rowdy recorded Mexican Mariachi music
radiated from a dusty, battered record player in a corner of the room. Several couples were dancing. Many of the men were drunk. A sign on the wall
told me that I could buy a dance for a peso, about a dime. I could judge from the scene that I could buy more than a dance for more than a peso. A
scene out of the early American west, dark and dank, smoky, smelly, sleazy. I realized then that this actually was the early American west. It was
just on another side of a border.
The place was a grimy dive and I was stuck with my friendly driver whose feelings I didn't want to hurt. But I had mixed emotions with the sorry sight
of this roomful of dusty cowboys and oily overweight prostitutes. We went to the bar and I ordered two beers, one for my driver and one for me. I told
him that my mediocre Spanish had perhaps conveyed the wrong message and that I really did just want a bottle of wine. I said that we should enjoy our
beer and get back to town because people would be worried about me.
We watched the women, loudly mouthed and dressed, sidling with their men around the dance floor, their bodies close and suggestive and rocking with
the music. I assumed that the second floors of the buildings were bedrooms. I was happy that this town existed for these people. But I had been ready
to leave before we entered.
We finished our beers and I convinced a red-eyed semi-conscious fellow beside us that I really couldn't, at the moment, enjoy the services they had to
offer, whatever they were and that I didn't know how to dance, thank you. We left, got back into the car and returned to Black Warrior, with my
apologies to the driver.
I looked at our various maps of Baja occasionally over the many years since my experience with the friendly drunks and hoars and have not found this
town identified. Until today. As I finished reviewing this before posting I opened my Baja Almanac and turned to N-29. There I spot it. It's just the
right distance from Guerrero Negro, out in the forlorn desert. And it does have a name, after all. It's Las Bombas. The Pumps. How appropriate.
[Edited on 12-12-2009 by David K]
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
Member Is Offline
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"Green Angels" and "Green Cards." Both terms are outdated since neither one is green anymore. Well...the truck has some green trim but, the card is
pink.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Dennis... 11 more posts and you are at 10,000! That's in only just over 3 years!!! Go go go!
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
Member Is Offline
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Dennis... 11 more posts and you are at 10,000! That's in only just over 3 years!!! Go go go! |
Yeah....I expected to catch some flak over that but, it's meaningless. Thanks David.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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| Quote: | Originally posted by mulegejim
Roger, I usually drive from home in San Clemente, CA straight through to GN, right at 500 miles, so when I see the Eagle and the flag in the distance,
I breathe a sigh of relief and start thinking of a hot shower, a glass or two of vino tinto and dinner at the Malarrimo. I usually arrive about 5:00
or 6:00 PM as it takes me around 11 to 12 hours including any stops. After a good sleep it's off to Mulege early in the AM and arrive around 10:00 AM.
Looking forward to my next trip soon after the Holidays. |
Almost the same for me, Jim. It's 3-4 days from Up North to San Diego. Then, after a long day driving from southern Cal to get as far as GN, it's
nice to find Malarrimo's table, bar, and bed. I still think it's the best place and value in the area, not to mention the sheer nostalgic fun of
'remembering back in the day'.'
Can't put a number on the old friends I've run into there..and the new ones well met. It's all good. 
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
Registered: 11-26-2002
Location: Bat Cave
Member Is Offline
Mood: Sling time!
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everything about that town gives me the creeps.
the WX, the people, the streets. it seems like a twilight zone episode.
i can't explain it but i was soooo glad to leave last time i was there, which is probably ridiculous.
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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| Quote: | Originally posted by capt. mike
everything about that town gives me the creeps.
the WX, the people, the streets. it seems like a twilight zone episode.
i can't explain it but i was soooo glad to leave last time i was there, which is probably ridiculous. |
Mike...you may have been stalked by none other than.....
...... the White Warrior.
.
Guerrero Negro is not for everybody.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
Registered: 11-26-2002
Location: Bat Cave
Member Is Offline
Mood: Sling time!
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i wondered where my little smoker went.....
i think he needs a more pointy hat....
Hey Rog - go by the Serenidad if you can later today like for happy hour and see if a Piper Aztec is on the field. White w/ trim.
if so bump around asking for Tom B.
he used to fly for Ed Tabor in the 60s and is your kind of guy. i think he knew Johnny Tequila too.
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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mike...I'll swing by the strip on the way to Ray's La Habana tonight. I'm craving some more Oyster Rockerfellers. If I see the Aztec, I'll say hello
from you.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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LaTijereta
Super Nomad
Posts: 1192
Registered: 8-27-2003
Location: Loreto
Member Is Offline
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"Here's the monument dividing Baja Norte California from Baja Sur California. Hmm...maybe I'll get one for the North Dakota and South Dakota border?
With an explanation on the south side of course.... "
If you are coming from Las Bombas..Here is the view
Democracy is like two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
Ben Franklin (1759)
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
Member Is Offline
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I always thought that thing looked like a raised drawbridge to nowhere.
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
Registered: 11-26-2002
Location: Bat Cave
Member Is Offline
Mood: Sling time!
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nevermind
| Quote: | Originally posted by Pompano
mike...I'll swing by the strip on the way to Ray's La Habana tonight. I'm craving some more Oyster Rockerfellers. If I see the Aztec, I'll say hello
from you. |
he just emailed - he fell backwards off the plane loading it in vegas thursday and cracked his shoulder, do flying and lots of class 2 meds....woo
hoo.
so maybe jan.
i was supposed to ride shotgun in his twin.
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
Member Is Offline
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I know that this is going to change direction a bit, but wanted to get back to Guerrero Negro. As bleak as it appears, it is an oasis for those
traveling Southbound. No question that Malarrimo is an icon. Even the least seasoned traveler could not help but feel at home and comfortable sitting
in their restaurant. Their food is really good. But, I did want to go on record that on the two last trips we made, the dining experience was
diminished by the fact that they rushed us through. Few other guests. Yet, our main course was delivered in the middle of our soup or appetizer. I can
understand the rush in a busy, trendy restaurant where people are waiting to be seated. But, in a half empty place in GN, it was disappointing.
Especially since we were enjoying the fruits of their bar.
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Howard
Super Nomad
Posts: 2353
Registered: 11-13-2007
Location: Loreto/Manhattan Beach/Kona
Member Is Offline
Mood: I'd rather regret the things I've done than regret the things I haven't done.
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Malarrimo
All I can think about when I get within 100 miles of GN is the Scallops in butter and ajo at Malarrimo. I don't care if it is for breakfast, lunch or
dinner my mind requires me to stop and have those damn Scallops. Anyone out there ever have them there? If you have had better in Baja, please let
me know!
We don't stop playing because we grow old;
we grow old because we stop playing
George Bernard Shaw
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Binger
Newbie
Posts: 19
Registered: 1-16-2010
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Great pictures. My son and I are driving our car from Phoenix down in two weeks. Plan on hitting Tijuana about 6 in the AM(say sunrise). It is
possible to make it to Guerro Negro by sundown(6PM) and then in 12 hours to Cabo the next day. Thanks,
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Cool Larry... good find! 
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Binger
Great pictures. My son and I are driving our car from Phoenix down in two weeks. Plan on hitting Tijuana about 6 in the AM(say sunrise). It is
possible to make it to Guerro Negro by sundown(6PM) and then in 12 hours to Cabo the next day. Thanks, |
Saw your posts on another thread. Just wondering why the need for two twelve hour driving days? Have a dentist appointment in Cabo? Just that there
are so many nice people, nice hotels and nice restaurants along the way in places like San Quintin, San Ignacio, Mulege, Loreto, Etc.
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