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luckyman
Junior Nomad
Posts: 60
Registered: 12-19-2007
Location: near chico, ca
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concrete colorant or stain
i'm looking for any info or leads on suppliers of concrete stain or powder color for stamped concrete...san jose to la paz would be good.
any info greatly appreciated.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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we have used it in baja sur and it is available in most ferreterias...building supply stores so you shouldnt have a problem finding it and it comes in
various colours.
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Paulclark
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Registered: 10-13-2008
Location: Castillo de Arena
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Also -- Home Depot carries a new line of concrete stain or you can do a Bomanite Chemical Stain which is available in La Paz from Enrique Rodriguez at
cel. 612-140-4859
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Diver
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If you are planning to stamp your concrete and color it while wet, you will need 2 products.
First a powdered color stain that is trowelled into the smooth surface, then a powdered color release before you stamp the impressions.
Another alternative is to stamp the concrete and let it cure.
Afterwards you can use an "acid stain" to color the concrete.
The final alternative is to color the concrete batch but the stain cost get's prohibitive.
Both methods can create some interesting colors.
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luckyman
Junior Nomad
Posts: 60
Registered: 12-19-2007
Location: near chico, ca
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thanks for the great replies; i've done one stamp/color job here using brickform powder release, stamps, and color, but i'm still a rookie at the
process. i like the look, and can get the stamps rolled into my suitcase for the flight down, but finding anyone with the release agents in baja has
been impossible on line or with a few phone calls.
the liquid sprayable release agent is petroleum based, so i'm guessing it's on the no fly list. the powder release comes in 5 gal buckets, 35 lb
each, so i might be able to fly them down in the hold for an additional fee.
at ther very least, if i took only the stamps down, i could stamp now and stain later with material driven down sometime over the next couple of
months....but i still need a release agent to keep the stamps from sticking...anybody got any ideas of what might work?
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capitolkat
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Posts: 510
Registered: 3-9-2006
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Look at
www.kemiko.com
The product looks pretty great nd I've seen it in Baja Sur. let us know how it turns out-- Norm
Life is too short to drink bad wine
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monoloco
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Posts: 6667
Registered: 7-13-2009
Location: Pescadero BCS
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If you use the colorant that you add to concrete make sure you do not add too much or the surface will flake off.
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Diver
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Quote: | Originally posted by monoloco
If you use the colorant that you add to concrete make sure you do not add too much or the surface will flake off. |
That would be hard to do - working that much powder into the concrete surface.
We would typically use 3-4, 5 gallon buckets of hardener per 20x20 slab, applied (cast) and floated 3 times, then hard finished.
For stamped concrete we apply twice (heavier) then apply release powder and then stamp it; washing off the excess release with a pressure washer the
next day.
We use Brickform or Absolute concrete stains and hardeners.
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Woooosh
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I prefer the acid stain method. I did my whole San Diego house that way. Only problem is you can't be 100% sure of the final color as the color is
dependent upon the mineral content of the concrete it is applied to. I found a spot no one would see and tested all the stains on that part first.
Gorgeous results. The brown looked like leather and the blue blended into the ocean. I had a quote for $6K and did it all myself for less than $500.
I'd like to try concrete countertops next.
\"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing\"
1961- JFK to Canadian parliament (Edmund Burke)
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tripledigitken
Ultra Nomad
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Registered: 9-27-2006
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Woooosh,
I'm very interested in the acid stain method. Any way you could post some pictures of your project? What was the age of the concrete you stained?
Ken
Here are pictures from Woooosh of his stained floors.
Beautiful home Woooosh, wish you had higher res photos to see the floors better.
[Edited on 1-29-2010 by tripledigitken]
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monoloco
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Quote: | Originally posted by Diver
Quote: | Originally posted by monoloco
If you use the colorant that you add to concrete make sure you do not add too much or the surface will flake off. |
That would be hard to do - working that much powder into the concrete surface.
We would typically use 3-4, 5 gallon buckets of hardener per 20x20 slab, applied (cast) and floated 3 times, then hard finished.
For stamped concrete we apply twice (heavier) then apply release powder and then stamp it; washing off the excess release with a pressure washer the
next day.
We use Brickform or Absolute concrete stains and hardeners. | I don't know, my wife kept saying " I want it
more blue" so they kept adding color until there wasn't enough cement left in the mix.
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Woooosh
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This was new construction. After the floors were poured we had to cover them with plywood while the rest of the house was finished. I did the floors
last, after everyone was done and out. I had them covered because fresh concrete would absorb oil, paint, caulk or anything else spilled- blocking
the stain from penetrating the concrete.
www.thestampstore.com
[Edited on 1-29-2010 by Woooosh]
\"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing\"
1961- JFK to Canadian parliament (Edmund Burke)
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Bob and Susan
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woshhhh
thats some BIG fish tank
is that where you eat the sushi?
do the fish get excited
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Woooosh
Banned
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Mood: Luminescent Waves at Rosarito Beach
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Quote: | Originally posted by Bob and Susan
woshhhh
thats some BIG fish tank
is that where you eat the sushi?
do the fish get excited |
240 gallons. There was a snowflake moray who would eat the sushi out of your hand I got tired of going back up just to feed the fish and do the tank work. Once I finished the Baja house I put that one on the market. Sold it
with the fish in the tank. I figured for what they paid- they deserved to get the fish in the tank too... (Obviously before the market turned south)
Sorry Ken. No better photos. I had to scan those and that's the best resolution I could get. The brown really looks like distressed leather up close
and the color penetrates a quarter inch down or so (yes we chipped a spot and the color was still there). We finished the stain with a diamond-coat
plastic, but many people use waxes instead. You need to use a rotary floor buffer/polisher a few times a year to bring it back to life.
[Edited on 2-13-2010 by Woooosh]
\"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing\"
1961- JFK to Canadian parliament (Edmund Burke)
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tripledigitken
Ultra Nomad
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Here's two more Woooosh sent me.
From "Home and Garden" no less!
Nice work Amigo.
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Woooosh
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The architect set that stuff up, not me. I got very tired of the gawkers and student tours after it won an AIA award (honor prize). They had it on
HGTV Dream Homes as well- which is where the buyer saw it. All that stuff is great for some people, but it really wasn't my thing. We used the same
architect for the baja house- but said no to the circus that wanted to follow us down. I have a face made for radio anyway...
\"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing\"
1961- JFK to Canadian parliament (Edmund Burke)
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luckyman
Junior Nomad
Posts: 60
Registered: 12-19-2007
Location: near chico, ca
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thanks for the positive replies, especially wooosh and diver...you two have quite a bit more experience with this type of project than i do.
i helped out on a colored stamp job around a swimming pool for a buddy a couple of years back, we troweled in colored hardener then stamped with a
powdered release, it came out well. we used brickform products, which is what i have available here.
i'm flying out this morning with a couple of buckets of powdered release and stamps rolled up in my big duffel bag, hoping that they will check the
sealed buckets as secondary baggage. a friend of my bro-in-law in eastern san diego county tells me they can use paint thinner as a stamp release, so
that's plan 'b' if the powder doesn't make it on the plane. i'm planning on using some of the brickform water based stain to go over the whole thing
at a later date when i can get it down there by ground.
whichever one of you guys knows matt in santa ysabel (my bro in law)...tell him the weather guessers are always wrong, you're gonna get rain mid-week,
his sand job will get held up, and he'll be peeed that he didn't come down to help us pour.
gotta run, i've got those last minute jitters before heading to the airport...there must be something i'm forgetting.
i'll post info and some pics on the project in a week or so. thanks again for the help.
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capt. mike
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my experience is adding color to the mix before laying down mud is superior.
it is best done at the batch plant if you're having it delivered by truck - but if you are mixing mud on site with small trailerable elec or gas
powered drums you can still add powder in the proper ratios to get the integral color you want.
mix, lay, stamp, add release to top it and voila!
or acid etch it later to create other quartz like effects.
i think colored concrete beats all natural stone or ceramic tile floors and counters hands down - cheaper too.
you can do it vertically too if you're good. think shower stalls - yes you can.
try Cohills products in Phx AZ. they will consult and ship world wide. i have found no one who knows more about this industry.
good luck and do post results.
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering
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C-Urchin
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Registered: 12-17-2008
Location: La Paz
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Concrete stain
Quote: | Originally posted by Woooosh
I prefer the acid stain method. I did my whole San Diego house that way. Only problem is you can't be 100% sure of the final color as the color is
dependent upon the mineral content of the concrete it is applied to. I found a spot no one would see and tested all the stains on that part first.
Gorgeous results. The brown looked like leather and the blue blended into the ocean. I had a quote for $6K and did it all myself for less than $500.
I'd like to try concrete countertops next. |
I did the same in LA with a patio slab, came out beautiful and it will never peel off.
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luckyman
Junior Nomad
Posts: 60
Registered: 12-19-2007
Location: near chico, ca
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i made it down with a couple of buckets of antique tinted release after much wrangling with the TSA over whether it was able to go into the cargo hold
of the plane or not. we wound up double wrapping the buckets it big plastic bags, which were shredded by the time the gorillas finished handling
them.
good to be back in la ribera, the weather is great, no wind...makes me want to go fishing, but there's concrete to get done.
i'm going looking for base tint pigments tomorrow to add to the mud; several locals recommend broadcasting the dry tint into the wet mud after the
screed board but before we hit it with the mag and then fresno, which probably doesn't give you a real consistent color but maybe an interesting
effect, especially if you throw a couple of complimentary colors around.
i'm open for opinions on this idea if there are any.
thanks
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