elfbrewery
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Southern BCS Exploratory Tour Report
Baja California Sur
Southern Loop Exploratory Tour Report
Feb. 8 - 12, 2010
Route: Mulegé to Todos Santos; across La Sierra La Laguna via the Los Naranjos Road;
Highway 1 to Miraflores, Santiago, Los Barriles, San Bartolo, San Antonio, El Triunfo, La Paz;
San Luis Gonzaga Mission, Ciudad Constitution.
Purpose: to drive off-road to various locations in the south of Baja and to see if more exploration would
be worthwhile.
Results: good trip, returned safe. See details below.
The trip began with 5 vehicles and 5 couples. We had two Wranglers, a Ford Explorer, a GMC Jimmy and a big Toyota Tundra. Taking 4wd vehicles that far
south for just one or two bits of off-road travel just doesn’t seem practical, so I planned a route to incorporate a balance of off-road and highway
driving to keep the drivers (and passengers) amused, but not abused. The plan was a 6-day clockwise tour of southern BCS. Did that work out? Well, the
weather took the first swipe at the itinerary. A Pineapple Express storm was due to hit on the second night out, so we headed straight to Todos Santos
the first day. We were bushed, but we got 5 hotel rooms (Hotel Guluarte, $350 pesos each room, parking on the street) and looked forward to the
crossing of the Sierra La Laguna the next day.
Day 2: Our 8 o’clock departure took us first to El Pescadero, the classical route to the Los Naranjos Road. I knew there were other routes from
Highway 19 into La Sierra La Laguna farther south, but I thought the shake down cruise through the ranchos would benefit us all. In ways, it did, even
with all the wrong turns and Wrangler-2 pulling the Tundra out of a deep crack in the soft dirt. I, the passenger in Wrangler-1, soon learned how to
use the GPS for coordinates and bearing, the map for direction and heading, the radio for contact and the camera for documentation. This became a fun
juggling act once the ascents came.
[To take the road from El Pescadero, turn off to the east, south of the Pemex station (about 6.5 miles south of Todos Santos) on Highway 19. The paved
road into El Pescadero turns to the south (right) at the baseball stadium. Do not follow the paved road, instead, go straight on the dirt road. Go
straight at the crossroads following the signs for San Andres. When you reach the turnoff for San Andres, turn south (right). A sign with nothing
readable on it indicates the turn-off for El Sesteadero; don’t take it, stay to the right and pass through Horconcitos. Continue SSW-SW towards El
Aguaje. Two good dirt roads come in from the west that lead to Highway 19 before you reach the rancho at El Aguaje where you turn east (left) onto the
Los Naranjos Road.]
Once we finally got started on the Los Naranjos Road, we were excited. The road gradually got rougher, the grades gradually got steeper and trees
started appearing where cactus would normally be. The sky was dim with the coming rain, so we were spurred on. Reaching San Pedro de la Soledad was
encouraging, but then the grades got steeper. We started mountain-goating up the gnarly rocky track. Wrangler-2 reported we were at 1100’ elevation.
We still climbed and jumped and bumped up the track. I didn’t count how many of these gutsy climbs we made, but it was at least four. Then there we a
couple narrow squeezes around corners and a rock sill to overcome. Great view to the west, but we climbed on. At 11:50 I spotted a wide spot in the
road a few minutes after a cross mounted on a rock and declared “lunch break.” I wasn’t positive we were at the summit, but it was definitely time to
re-energize. It was great to see each of the four other vehicles pull over around us, especially the Tundra, since it was the widest. Unluckily,
though, Wrangler-2 did not breach the rock sill without coming down on its shackle under the rear bumper with a smack. That shockwave when straight up
the frame and shattered the rear window. The tint film held the mosaic of blue and charcoal-gray fragments together (almost). Duct tape was applied
liberally to keep the remaining glass within the window frame together. I peeked at the altimeter in the jeep that read 2100’. That was a big climb in
a hurry. Well, we were happy to be together and ran around looking at the trees and views. Then we journeyed on.
Ranchos soon started appearing more frequently. An older man sprang off the toilet, pulling up his trousers to talk with us. We gave some candy and
tennis balls to his family. The road improved greatly. We were on the gradual descent of the mountain range that allowed us to look at the scenery
with it colorful rocks as if we were driving through a national park. Almost no water, maybe some wet rocks in the streambeds. There had to be water
underneath for all this flora, but not visible. It was a shame that Highway 1 came into view.
It was now 2 p.m. We headed north to look for accommodation. We had been informed that the Hotel Palomar in Santiago was closed, but we wanted to take
a peek at the area anyway. Turns out that the Hotel Palomar still has a restaurant business and they have 2 now, not 6, rooms for visitors, but these
were occupied anyway. Tundra took us up Highway 1 to just south of Los Barriles. Just past the first speed bump we pulled off to the west at Hotel
Calafia. The conversation over getting 5 rooms made me nervous, but it was no problem in the end. Wrangler-1 got the king-size bed and the other four
rooms had single beds. (This meant none of the couples felt like they slept together.) The charge was $450 pesos per room and we ate at the restaurant
in the hotel (good food for less than $10 USD per plate). (There is a Tienda Popular just north on the right.) As we wound down from the trip, we
graded the day’s accomplishment on a scale of 1 to 5. For seeing what you and your vehicle could do, it was a 4+; for scenery, it was a 3+. I think we
expected more. But we agreed that climbing the steep side of the Sierra La Laguna (traveling west to east) was far better than sliding down it (east
to west), like the car with an empty trailer as big as the car going the opposite way.
Day 3: It rained overnight and the showers geared down to drippy weather. Tundra left our party to drive down the coast of Cabo Pulmo to meet friends
at San Jose (and take them back to Mulegé). Our 8 o’clock departure led us back south to Santiago, where we followed the signs for Sol de Mayo (at the
Pemex, turn right, take the middle road). The signs for Sol de Mayo take you into an eco-ranch by the Fox Canyon Waterfall (Cascada del Cańon de la
Zorra). No official was at the parking lot when we arrived; however, two couples had spent the night at the house situated there. They spoke English
and told us it was a five minute walk to the little chute of water. They had paid $6 USD the day before to go see the falls and to do more walking and
climbing. I don’t know if that included staying the night, but we decided to go have a quick peek and boogey on out of there. Funny thing about
expectations -- we weren’t overwhelmed by the Los Naranjos Road, but almost freaked at the waterfall. It was very picturesque. Also, the area is
littered with different trees. There are steps that go down to the pool and another trail that goes beyond the waterfall, probably to more falls and
pools. This area is worth another trip.
When we congregated in Santiago at the Pemex, getting aired up and gassed up, the passenger in the Jimmy wanted to go to Miraflores, since we were in
the area. Okay, it was in the itinerary and it isn’t raining at the moment. I decided we could attempt a side trip to San Jorge in search of the hot
tub in Aqua Caliente. I wasn’t sure this was the right route and when I got us on the wrong road (go straight along the north side of the wash, don’t
follow the good road) I aborted the attempt.
In Miraflores, we did just that. There were bougainvilleas and other flowering trees to see. We walked the enlarged square of the downtown streets and
finished up with a demonstration of leather working at the “Cultura” building. (There is a room on the left as you enter the building with a sign
above reading “Talleres” and a picture of a saddle. Walk through that room to the back room. The ingenious tools are wonderful.) Oh, if you see a
bicycle that looks like it’s ridden on its rims, it’s not. Mounted on the rim is a strip of old tire(s) that is about a quarter-inch or so thick,
stapled together at the ends; kind of like a fan belt.
After Miraflores was our lunch break, at the Tropic of Cancer monument. Tacky, but a place to park and get out the folding chairs and munch.
Now for a tourist-type afternoon. First, the springs at San Bartolo. Not remarkable, except that there is water flowing right out of the rocks. Then I
attempted to find the ruins of the smelters (El Progresso Mines) mentioned by Jack Swords (http://vivabaja.com/swords/). We turned off into San Antonio, followed the signs for Los Planes, crossed over a wash and past an old aqueduct,
then into a series of ranchos. When the track looked like we were going to dive into a thicket and the dogs surrounded us, we quit. I talked with a
rancher, but all he could say is “Como se llama?” and I said “No importa” and kindly smiled as I walked back to the jeep. We got to see the aqueduct,
anyway. Hopes were still high for finding the old railroad bridges, which look a lot nicer than I hoped. And El Triunfo was a nice break by the smoke
stacks. Several of the women wanted to see the basket makers and others the music museum (not open at the time).
A walk around the church at the end of town and we were off for La Paz. It was getting late and it had been a long, busy day, so we stopped short of
La Paz in a noisy area along the “Forrajodes Sudcalifornia” (Highway 1) at a motel with a sign that read $300 pesos. The white wall had “Hotel Oasis”
painted on it, but my partner tells me it was the La Dorada. Cheap rooms, good cheap food, security and lots of friendliness. However, another
sleepless night for all the noise. (As you know, if it’s not the roosters and the dogs, it will be trucks and buses or something.)
Day 4: On the road at 8 o’clock for the turnoff at Cienventiocho (Rosita, Km. 128). We survived the traffic and topes of La Paz, gassed up at the
Pemex and cruised north for our journey to Mision San Luis Gonzaga. I thought the road from Las Pocitas might be better, but this road was great (It
might be a good road for reaching San Evaristo?). We were doing over 30 mph all the way to Las Tinajas (about 24 kms). Then the signs showed us the
turn for the mission and several ranchos. It was simple keeping to the road, the only small hurdle was the puddle we crossed going into San Luis
Gonzaga, it was at least a foot deep, but good bottom. Since the mission was closed quite awhile ago, there is little to see. The church is being
restored, so it had a nice clean front wall. The town population is maybe 50 people and there is a boarding school for all the rancheros’ children.
From here (37 miles from where we turned off, 23 miles to Highway 1 northwest of here) we had a couple small mishaps with the GMC Jimmy. By the time
Wrangler-1 got the radio message of a flat tire and returned to the scene, the pit crew of other drivers were tightening down the spare. Back on the
road in a jiffy. However, the Jimmy didn’t want to get out of 4wd when we hit the asphalt, so the smell of boiling gear oil caused another pause until
2wd was restored. Less that 5 miles to Ciudad Constitution, our stop for the night, anyway. Four rooms obtained ($410 pesos and gated parking area) at
the Hotel el Tesoro just north of the Ley supermarket on the south side of town. We took a break before heading out to San Carlos for a stroll and
dinner. It hasn’t changed a lot since I was there in ‘93, but there are more restaurants and hotels than before. (Were there any?)
Day 5: Mutiny (just kidding). No one has any enthusiasm for another long drive. I had saved this drive for last (the back road from Valle Santo
Domingo to Loreto via San Javier), but we will do it another day when the drivers/passengers are better rested and vehicles restored to normal
condition. GOOD TRIP overall. Four days seemed to be the max.
The only other parts that were skipped were 1) a side trip to Presa Santa Inez just NE of Todos Santos (lack of time and didn’t spot the turnoff with
the road construction) and 2) the coastal run from Punta Marquez to Punta Conejo.
(I took a shot at including photos, but gave up.)
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Jack Swords
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Posts: 1095
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: Nipomo, CA/La Paz, BCS
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Nice report, thanks. The San Juanes smelter is on the riverbed road just to the south of San Antonio. Take the road upstream and you can't miss it.
You can also drive thru El Rosario, El Oro, and then the road will eventuallly pass the ruins and intersect with the highway at San Antonio. The
Naranjos road takes off from the highway south of Todos Santos and crosses the San Jacinto river passing an important visita of the mission of Todos
Santos. You can also access the Sierra de la Laguna Biosphere from the East through the Valle Perdido and cross over either to San Antonio or Todos
Santos. Lots to explore back in there, sounds like you had a good time. The area between Las Pocitas and Evaristo is stunning and has many
alternatives in routes. This year was not a great year for water, as some are. We found that normally flowing streams were low or dry.
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elfbrewery
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Jack,
Is the riverbed road on the east side of town or the west? I spotted the smelters on Google Earth, but got lost trying to find the wash to follow.
Does the Los Planes road still exist?
Thanks for your critique!
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Jack Swords
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Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: Nipomo, CA/La Paz, BCS
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As you drive through San Antonio on the highway from La Paz, just past the town is the river. You can drive up the riverbed or take the adjacent
road which passes the cemetery. Los Planes road does exist.
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wiltonh
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I did the Las Planes road twice this week and it is in fairly good shape. We had a 4X4 van and a motorcycle. Going South is easier than going North
but both ways are okay.
I met 10 off road motorcycles going South as I was coming back North. They had two support vehicles that looked like off road golf carts. I was
surprised at how fast those guys could go.
Wilton
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bajajudy
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Posts: 6886
Registered: 10-4-2004
Location: San Jose del Cabo,BCS
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Sounds like a great trip.
FYI, I think that the Naranjas road is spectacular traveling east to west.
FYI2, you made a good decision to save that San Javier trip for another time. The last time we did it, it was brutal but worth the pain.
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TMW
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Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Excellent, thanks for the trip report.
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