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geomike
Junior Nomad
Posts: 64
Registered: 10-3-2009
Location: Very near to the middle of nowhere.
Member Is Offline
Mood: feeling an irresistable pull towards Baja...
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Spring vacation Bahia El Coyote
Hi all, we had a great spring vacation in Mulege in mid April and wanted to share some pictures and the story. We also want to thank all the Nomads
who gave advice and encouragement for the trip.
We got a late start from Campland in San Diego and arrived at Tecate around 11:30 am on April 14th. It took about an hour to get through all of the
immigration stuff but we had all sorts of help from the officials at the border. Help getting the rig parked, help finding the bank, help inside the
bank, help with translation, we even got help from the Shoe Shine Man on the corner and I was wearing sneakers! Really not a bad experience just a
little stressful the first time. We nearly got wedged making the right hand turn onto the #3 highway but this car would move up a bit and that car
would move back a bit, a bystander would watch the corner of the trailer and off we went! The road to Ensenada was fine, a little crooked and hilly
but not too different from highway 94 on the US side. We made it through Ensenada but got a little off the track at a detour and wound up in a pretty
dodgy neighborhood a few odd looks from the locals but we made it back to #1 highway fine.
Its getting late and we still want to make it to San Quintin so we press on. The topas are taking a toll on my sense of humour by now. We get lost
again trying to find Celito Lindo RV camp. Parked in an arroyo on the old highway a van stops and asks in perfect English if we need help. I reply
thankfully that we are looking for Celito Lindo and as luck would have it he is the Manager! We get some fresh directions and off we go dragging the
rig through the recently washed out and quite sandy river bed. I’m pretty sure we will get this thing buried but we make it through. A couple of
more wrong turns and we make it to Celito Lindo. The bar is occupied by 5 Norte Americanos and they are all blazing drunk. Great, I really don’t
have a lot of patients left for foul mouthed drunks when here I am stone sober and tired! I get a spot for the night and park the rig. I pour myself
a Martini, lock the door and ponder the obvious question, what have I done.
My wife is at about Def-Con 3 no thanks to my brother-in-law who thought it would be helpful to e-mail an article about a Canadian couple who had
their RV hijacked on the Mainland last week. That in addition to the Calgary man who was shot in Mazatlan earlier in the spring when he opened the
door of his RV after dark. And no thanks to our respective State departments (Canada and the US) that suggest caution while traveling in Mexico and
include such asinine advice as “don’t stand on balconies cause you could fall off”.
So far this isn’t much fun. I think about all of the advice the Nomads gave:
#1 Get a good early start and if possible get your FMT the day before you drive.
#2 Travel with somebody who knows the routine and can at the very least provide some moral support.
Hmm …
After a good nights sleep (for me anyway, our Security Officer wasn’t so restful) I have a walk around in the daylight. Celito Lindo isn’t all that
bad! Big sites, quiet with nothing but the cooing of doves in the trees and fresh Pacific Ocean air. Cleared out from the drunks from the night
before and I bet that little restaurant and bar could serve up a mean breakfast!
Things always look better in the light of a new day and we decide to push on to Guerrero Negro. We find a beautiful drive. Nicely farmed berry
fields in San Quintin and vegetable fields of El Rosario give way to the Boojums and boulders of Catavina.
We stop for lunch at Rancho Santa Inez. A nice rest and I feast on the Tacos Dorado.. It is my first taste of Baja and it is terrific! We chat with
an old hippie who has been coming to Baja for 40 years and winters in the East Cape. He is interested in the road construction on the #3 and I assure
him that there is at least the base coat of pavement all the way now. I feel good about the chance to help someone and I eagerly soak up all of the
stories he has about his Baja experiences. He’s never had a problem in 40 years and that brightens Fay’s day a little.
We are off to the Malarrimo Hotel and RV Park in Guerrero Negro and pass through some awesome country on the way. We had enjoyed Joshua Tree National
Park and Organ Pipe Cactus monument on previous trips but Baja blows them away! I can’t imagine the environmental influences that could result in
this much growth. The Cardon, the Boojum, the Joshua trees are all immense!
We dine at the restaurant in the hotel and the food is excellent. I highly recommend the scallops (Mulege style I think it was). The hotel has WiFi
so we check in with family back home. In the morning we take care of some banking and do a little grocery shop. We get a late start for San Ignacio
but once we are on the road, decide that we can make Mulege before dark so we go for it.
I’m getting used to the narrow roads and near misses now and it doesn’t seem all that bad. I do wish that I hadn’t flipped out my trailer mirrors
though! We slide on down the big grade before Santa Rosalia with out any trouble. The truck has an exhaust brake so I put it in 4th and cruise on
down. Now I’m having fun.
We make it to Villa Maria Isabel RV park at Mulege and set up camp. The park is nice and open with reasonably big sites. If it were busy it might
get tight for the slide-outs but we have the place to ourselves. The kids and I go for a walk but soon discover that something is making the red dirt
stick to everything. Shoes, dog feet, carpets, everything soon has red dirt stuck to it! I suspect it is calcium chloride put down to control the
dust, anyway it is a bugger to clean it up! The Security Officer is still on high alert but at least she is enjoying the warmer weather here away
from the cold Pacific side. I have another great sleep, the Security Officer sleeps in after her night shift!
It was our (well… my) dream to camp on the beach so we make an excursion in the truck to see if any others are camped there. The road along the coast
south of Mulege is breathtaking and the vista above Santispac Beach is un-real. Azure blue bay with sailboats at anchor and a beautiful strip of
sandy beach it is so idyllic. We pay the man at the gate a nominal fee and head straight for the water. It’s so warm, so gentle, barely a wave so
different from the high energy Pacific coast. Almost immediately the beach vendors are there. Fay is in heaven now and soon makes friends with
Sebastian and his wife. Hats, blankets, jewelry, you name it. She has him unload the whole truck. I shake my head. Fay and Devynn love a market
and here the market comes to you! Ethan and I splash around and we probably spend two hours at Santispac. There are a couple of other campers here.
We chat with a couple from B.C it’s their first trip too. Another couple is from San Diego and has been coming to Baja for 25 year surfing and
exploring. There is also a pair of backpackers who have hitchhiked all the way from Seattle, now that is traveling!
The Security officer has deemed that because we won’t be alone it is OK to move the rig and camp at the beach tonight. I am ecstatic. We throw the
beach toys in the truck and head down to scout the El Coyote beach entrance. We find the entrance a little steep but doable, and the trail along high
tide is a little tight but no problem. Best of all the spot under that ruddy palm tree is available! We head back to get the trailer.
On the drive to El Coyote we experience a total turnaround point in our Holiday. I had rushed through the pack up and left the kids toys in the box
of the pickup. Well our 5’er generates a lot of vacuum when its hooked up on the road and apparently we lost a pink basketball out the back. We
discover this when an 18 wheeler passes us and out the passenger widow the guy is holding my daughters pink ball! I cringe, did she see it? Daddy is
that my ball? Rats! Umm yes dear, I guess I should have packed it better. We can get a new one when we get back. Pretty much giving my best stall
and redirect routine! Well, about 5 miles down the road there is a truck parked at one of the few pull outs along this section. In the middle of the
highway are a couple of guys bouncing a ball and flagging us down. My wife and I are gobsmacked. These men stopped an 18 wheeler on that crooked
hilly road…twice…in order to return a $6 Wal-Mart ball. Your ninos? He asks. Those men would have spent more in fuel stopping and starting that rig
then the ball was worth in the first place. Fay and I look at each other knowing this would never happen up north. I offer money but they refuse (I
hope now that I didn’t offend them). From that point forth the Security Officer (and me) stands down!
We get the rig parked easily and start to soak up paradise. There are no words that can describe how relaxing this place is. The Tamale Lady brings
breakfast, the vendors bring souvenirs for everybody back home, the Scallop Man brings supper. How can you beat this? It’s Saturday night and some
of the local 20 somethings are camped next to us. Back home this might be a recipe for raucous party and sleepless night. Here the kids are way more
respectful. I lend them an axe when I see them struggling with the firewood and shortly a plate of ceviche appears with crackers on the side. Man
these people eat well! At dusk the volume is turned way down, softer music is played, we love it and ask for the name of the group (Grupo Elefante,
we got our copy on Amazon!) they turn it up a little so we can hear. Campfires flicker, the sea laps gently and this beautiful Latin rhythm wavers
along a gentle cooling breeze.
The kids make friends on the beach. Play is a universal language it seems and they spend all day up and down the beach. The other parents watch our
kids like they were their own and we do the same.
Relaxing in the shade of a palm tree 10 feet from high tide what a place! Except for one daft woodpecker we had the ideal spot. Every morning a few
moments before dawn this ridiculous animal would come. Some of you may not be familiar with the finer points of RV construction. Let me assure you,
if you are ever so unlucky to have a daft woodpecker mistake your rear window or worse, aluminum ladder, for a tree then you will be the first to
know. The reverberation that this ruddy bird could introduce to my trailer was nothing short of earsplitting! Alright you misery, I was going to get
up anyway.
Of course waking up to a Coyote bay sunrise isn’t so much of a hardship! Heck even looking up Pompano’s sunrise pictures over the internet is
something to get up for! Each morning a Blue Heron would fish the shallows near the sea-weed line. From the earliest gray of dawn to the moment the
sun cracked the rocks and flooded into our corner of the cove he would be there. So at least that simple woodpecker and I weren’t the only ones out
and about.
We spent 5 glorious restful days and nights at that spot. A day trip to Loreto to sight see and a day trip to Mulege for a re-supply and some e-mail.
On our last day we run into Pompano and Co Pilot out on a hike and have a quick visit. We have to turn down an invitation to the beach house in
order to get packed up to leave in the morning. I hope we can have a rain-cheque on that invite Pomp, I would love to learn some more about this
country and hear some of your experiences in it!
Our return trip was uneventful except we couldn’t find all of the dreadful slums that we had driven through on the way down. It seems that some
change had occurred while we were south and we felt none of the apprehension of that first couple of days! We had another excellent meal at the
Malarrimo Restaurant in Guerrero Negro as well as at the Motel Sinai in El Rosario. The El Rosario to Tecate to San Diego run was a much better
choice. We were up early this time and on the road around 8 am. The boys at the military checks wanted to see inside the rig and were thorough
enough to detect an obscenely large stash of drugs…not on me mind you, but the pictures they had taken of some of their bigger busts were incredible!
Is that really a picture of a gold plated Uzi… are you freaking kidding me? If there really is that volume of drugs and weaponry on the road those
young boys are a bunch cooler about their job than I would be if it were me doing the inspection! The border took about an hour including secondary
inspection where we donated a dozen eggs and some sandwich meat. Back to Campland by supper time and some preparation for the next adventure the
Mexican 1000!
Thanks again Nomads for helping making this holiday a great success and thank you Baja for…well, you know…everything.
You are entitled to your own opinions...not your own facts.
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Barbareno
Nomad
Posts: 410
Registered: 11-4-2007
Location: Vernon BC
Member Is Offline
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Fantastic trip report Geomike. Brought tears to my eyes. You had me believing I was there with you guys. That first picture where you are parked at
Celito Lindo, beside you is a red Bronco. Looks just like mine. But I am up here in BC. What's up with all the Bronco's lately?
Thanks!
[Edited on 5-20-2010 by Barbareno]
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dean miller
Nomad
Posts: 456
Registered: 1-28-2004
Member Is Offline
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Very good concise report; great pictures!
Enjoyed it!
sdm
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mulegemichael
Super Nomad
Posts: 2310
Registered: 12-24-2007
Location: sequim,wa. and mulege
Member Is Offline
Mood: up on step
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good stuff, mike....we'll be there tomorrow so i relate.
dyslexia is never having to say you\'re yrros.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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Hi Mike, I just had a ball reading about your trip while having my coffee here in Coyote Bay. Bravo!.. that was one fine report and will help
tremendously to bring into public view how Baja is in reality..and the people.
Don'tcha just love guys like those two truckers who recovered your daughter's ball? These kind of Baja folks..and a few thousand like them.. truly
make your day. We know that joy.
It was good to meet you on the camper's road, a walk we take often..down to your palm tree and back. Here's what the camping beach looks like today.
Nothing has changed since you left.
(if this pic is too wide for anyone, please let me know..I can reduce.)
Mike,
We're glad to hear your trip north was so pleasant. Now that you're a Baja-vet and know the way to our beach..remember...mi casa es su casa.
Saludos y Hasta Pronto.
[Edited on 5-20-2010 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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What a terrific report...it is always fun to read the stories from a "baja virgin" especially from the point of view from saskatchewaners!!
Excellent anecdotes...I LOVED the image you conjured up of the trucker bouncing the pink ball...which is why most of us are in love with baja.
Your next trip will be even better....make sure you take Pomp up on his offer.
On a side note...man oh man...your kids look soooooo like the kids from the missing family....I had to find the poster to take another look...kinda
spooky.
[Edited on 5-20-2010 by shari]
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TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Member Is Offline
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It was a beautiful report and the pictures were too. Thanks. I assume the Security Officer was in the last picture giving an OK for a trip well done
and safe to go home.
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Natalie Ann
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2819
Registered: 8-22-2003
Location: Berkeley
Member Is Offline
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Outstanding trip report. Thank you!
nena
Be yourself, everyone else is already taken.
.....Oscar Wilde
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tripledigitken
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4848
Registered: 9-27-2006
Member Is Offline
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Really enjoyed your report. Felt like I was right there.
How tough of a time did you have getting your 5th wheel across at Tecate, as I drive through there it looks pretty narrow for RV's?
Ken
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64845
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thank you GeoMike for a wonderful trip report!
It sounds like you have discoverded 'THE BAJA FEELING'!
I bet you come back down for more!!!???  
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5867
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
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Absolutely loved your trip report and photos. You landed in our most favorite camping spot in all of Baja, under those palm trees!
Bob H
Bahia Coyote - our favorite spot!
My wife having a beer break - Bahia Coyote
[Edited on 5-20-2010 by Bob H]
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noproblemo2
Super Nomad
Posts: 1088
Registered: 4-14-2006
Member Is Offline
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GeoMike, you really brought back some wonderful memories, I think it's about time to head further south again. That has always been our favorite
area....
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willyAirstream
Super Nomad
Posts: 1786
Registered: 1-1-2010
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Thanks for the terrific report Mike!
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
Member Is Offline
Mood: undecided
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geomike, Thanks for sharing your family's vacation. 
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vandenberg
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5118
Registered: 6-21-2005
Location: Nopolo
Member Is Offline
Mood: mellow
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Geomike,
Great report.
Lot of us that make baja home for any length of time, need a report like this, to remind us of the wonderful choice we made to live among these
wonders of nature and wonderful Mexican people that call our peninsula home. It's easy to start taking it for granted. Thanks!!
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bajaboolie
Nomad
Posts: 277
Registered: 9-24-2007
Location: Aptos, CA/Mulege
Member Is Offline
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Geomike, love the pictures, looks like you had a great time. It's as beautiful as ever, and can't wait until our October trip! Thanks for sharing.
BobH., by the looks of the smooth water and shadow placement on the island behind, your wife takes a mighty early beer break! 
Bajaboolie
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dean miller
Nomad
Posts: 456
Registered: 1-28-2004
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Geo Mike,
The large rust colored home high on the hill over looking Coyote & Burro and point North and South was built by my cousin the late Bob
Jacobs...What a view! What a way to live! Sadly the place he departed this earth...I just can't believe that heaven is any more beautiful than the
view he enjoyed so many years...
Next trip down south ask Pompano about "Crazy" Jake Jacobs...Jake was one of a kind....
sdm
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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| Quote: |
It seems that some change had occurred while we were south and we felt none of the apprehension of that first couple of days!
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Oh that so reminds me of my first trip to the mainland---John had traveling there for years, but it was my first trip----
Loved your trip report and really glad you had such a good time.
Thanks for sharing.
Diana
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5867
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
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| Quote: | Originally posted by bajaboolie
BobH., by the looks of the smooth water and shadow placement on the island behind, your wife takes a mighty early beer break! |
 
Don't remember what time it was, but I know it was after a morning kayking loop around the bay. It stayed smooth for most of the day. We always have
a great time in that area of Baja every time we go.
Only one time we had to leave because of those little noseeums attacking our ankles... Bob H
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wessongroup
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 21152
Registered: 8-9-2009
Location: Mission Viejo
Member Is Offline
Mood: Suicide Hot line ... please hold
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Thanks so much for all.... great trip... really great photo's and write up... super... 
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