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Author: Subject: Head Shots
Russ
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 08:03 AM
Head Shots


Still not getting the sharpness as Ken or BigOly. I'll keep trying though. The feeder is really cool to keep an eye on.









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BigOly
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 08:52 AM


Thanks for the great shots Russ. We've had a White-winged dove around here for a couple months. It had the front of it's breast pealed off by a raptor or shotgun or something. BigOly is a big softy when it comes to birds so I'm happy to report the bird is now doing fine.
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Russ
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 09:10 AM


I know you probably posted it but what lenses are you using? I just don't seem to be able to get the clarity you do.



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Ken Bondy
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 09:28 AM


Those are fabulous Russ!! Sharp as a tack and great detail. They are such an interesting bird, I regret having eaten so many of them.



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BigOly
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 09:35 AM


My go-to lense for most birding is a Cannon 100-400 IS. Over the years I've noticed the light is most important, for me anyway. Keep the camera still. For feeder shots I have a morning feeder area and an evening feeder placed to where the sun is mostly behind me that time of day. Never had a lesson or anything like that so I just keep shooting and delete the fotos I don't like. Little or no photoshop. :D
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tripledigitken
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 10:00 AM


Russ,

With the lens you are using those are very good captures.

Some tips to get the most out of your lens.

Try to keep the speed up when shooting birds to get the most sharpness. To do this try shooting in shutter mode and set the shutter to a minimum of 1/500 sec or faster. You will find that you won't have enough light with you lens in many situations, you can adjust your ISO to 500-800 to compensate. You can also try using a tri-pod, monopod or just resting the camera on a stable object when shooting, which will reduce any camera shake. (it doesn't look like your shots show any camera movement though) You can also back off the zoom to 1/250 mm to see if it produces shots you like better, albeit at a reduced magnification.

My two lenses for wildlife are Nikkors, 70-200 F2.8, 300mm F4. Both of these are up in the price category of Oly's 100-400. Check out http://www.photozone.de/reviews for a good resource in researching lenses, when you dig deep next time. Buying lenses is an addiction stronger than crack.


:cool:

Ken
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 10:46 AM


one more from BigOly.


[Edited on 3-4-2011 by BigOly]
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Cypress
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 11:01 AM


Russ and BigOly, Thanks for taking the time to share your pictures. They're neat!:D Looking forward to more.
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Russ
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 02:42 PM


Ken, I've put your URL in my favorites and the first paragraph I read it gave me another option I hadn't thought of. ".... The VR should be switched off when using the lens on a tripod - otherwise you risk added blur because the lens tries to find non-existing motion."
Keep the tips coming. I'm trying everything!




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tripledigitken
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 02:58 PM


Not a Baja head shot but they are on the Mainland.


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BigOly
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 03:46 PM


Fantastic photo 3digit. Pink Flamingo. We saw a small isolated population on The Galapagos. WOW.
This is a house finch and he had a yellow breast.
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Skipjack Joe
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 03:59 PM


Russ,

The reason you first shot looks 'blurrier' than the Ken's is largely because it's 'grainier'. You probably shot it at a high ISO so you could get the shutter speed up. The result is that 'mosaic' like background. That will be throughout the image and make it look 'blurrier'. They don't call it 'grain' any longer. I think now it's called 'noise'.

Anyway, the bottom line is that the more expensive cameras can shoot more 'wide open' without running into that problem because they have a larger sensor.

So if you slow down the shutter speed you get more light and a sharper image IF the bird isn't moving. If he is moving you bump up the shutter speed and raise your ISO and get grain.

Solution: $$$ (or patience).

I guess my point is to not feel too bad about your images because they may be as far as your equipment will take you.
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Russ
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 05:09 PM


Thanks Skipjack Joe I'll work with the ISO & shutter speed but as mentioned to me by others also it may be I'm at the limits of my D-60 & lens. But I thought tripledigitken was/is using a D-90 or D-40 and they have similar pixel chip. Oops, I'm making excuses and I'm still hoping it's operator ignorance.






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Frank
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 06:13 PM


Get closer Russ. Zoom with your feet. Didnt you just got a new zoom lens? I made the mistake of using the zoom at the longest focal length and from far away, thinking I didnt need to get close. Try moving closer and zooming in.

I hope you dont mind...I did a little post processing on your pic.

Some noise reduction, a little auto color and a quick sharpen.


[Edited on 3-5-2011 by Frank]
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Frank
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 06:20 PM


You have to creep up on them...and watch your focus. If you have a selectable focus point, choose a single selectable point. Put that point right on the birds eye.




[Edited on 3-5-2011 by Frank]
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Russ
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 06:59 PM


Excellent fix Frank. Makes me look better.
I taped the distance to the feeder and I'm only 26' away. I do use the spot focus when I can but in some modes, like "close up", it doesn't work. Still a novice but I'm learning. Thanks for the help.
Nice Egret (?) shot!




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tripledigitken
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[*] posted on 3-4-2011 at 07:53 PM


Frank,

I agree completely with the focus recommendation of using spot focus. It can take a little more time composing, but is worth the effort.

Nice Egret shot too, by the way!

Ken
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