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Best Fish Tacos in Ensenada
http://www.streetgourmetla.com/2010/11/ultimate-guide-to-bes...
By Bill Esparza ("Street Gourmet LA")
November 8, 2010
The Baja fish taco is adored in the Californias and beyond. It's required eating in Ensenada by guys on fishing trips, the three day cruise ship
crowd, overnighters , Baja wine country visitors, frat boys, cholos, girl's weekend outings, and those kindred souls of mine seeking out the riches of
Baja cuisine, culture, wine, and lifestyle.
It's quite a lovely proposition, a tempura batter fried filet of dogfish, angel shark, mako shark, or a variety of other firm white fish in a warm
tortilla with fresh and pickled vegetables, salsa, crema agria (mayo with 2% milk), maybe some guacamole salsa?
It is a popular belief that Japanese fishermen brought tempura technique to Baja, which they acquired from the Portuguese, but make no such careless
culinary revisionism, the Baja fish taco, or taco de pescado, is a 100% Mexican creation. All cuisines evolve from outside influences, and no cuisine
is pure. Why isn't Italian cuisine called a fusion when it relies on tomatoes from the Americas, and pasta from Asia? Is Italian really
Chinese-Mexican? No, it's Italian. Cuisine is the expression of a culture or people, not cooking devices, techniques, or ingredients.
These fish tacos are available all throughout the Baja peninsula, from Tijuana to Cabo, but Ensenada is the epicenter, and considered the birthplace
of this iconic food. It's one of the first things one thinks of when planning a trip to Baja. "Fish tacos, dude!" (high fives)
Surprisingly, there hasn't been a thorough investigation of Ensenada's fish taco stands, with just a handful of places receiving any mention. Chris
Cognac hit up Puesto El Fenix and Don Zefe in November of 2006, relying on predictable sources, El Fenix always comes up, and many would consider it
the best. Don Zefe rated very poorly on my run, one of the worst, and not worth revisiting. Others have written about El Fenix, but didn't even go to
the stand, which is the best of the two El Fenix fish taco establishments, just a block away from each other.
Over the course of four years with multiple visits to a total of ten stands, I have compiled a Baja fish taco guide that ranges from the tourist trap
stalls next to the Black Market (fish market) to what I call the Holy Trinity of Ensenada fish tacos. This list focuses on the traditional stands, or
shacks that serve fish and shrimp tacos, although two taquerias are included due to their reputations. Fish tacos are found everywhere in Ensenada,
restaurants, cafes, stands, and taquerias, but they are done best in a stand using a comal de acero, a stainless steel disc shaped comal with a
concave well for frying. All ten locations listed here use the comal de acero, use a similar type of corn tortilla, and have the same basic
condiments.
I considered the quality of the fish, cooking technique, condiments, and overall flavor. The stands are ranked in order from least to greatest. This
is not a top ten list, but an ordering of the range of fish taco options and the most well known stands to tourists and locals.
For most short stays in Ensenada, a fish taco at the various stalls next to the fish market is your first encounter with this Baja temptation. It was
the same for me a decade ago. The barkers stand outside and yell for you to come to their stand, and insist that they are the best.
#10-Mariscos El Norteno
Located across from the Black Market
These places are identical, all stocking the same tarros (large beer glasses) filled with the same salsas and condiments and covered in plastic. So, I
randomly selected Mariscos El Norteno.
It's certainly a turn off when everybody has the same stuff. These glasses actually depress me.
The weako de gallo looked awful, a medley of out of season fruit and vegetables devoid of color or nutrition.
The taco itself was compromised by the poor condiments, a lack of flavor that even salt couldn't revive. The cooking was good, a crunchy outside, and
a token of tenderness, but a lack of seasoning on batter and fish.
Corvina was used, a type of croaker fish, which allows El Norteno to offer this taco for $10MXP, about $.86USD, but it's just not the right fish for
the Baja fish taco.
The other nuisance at the stalls is the smell of fish runoff from the market and the nearby docks. One time, many years ago, a fetid odor accompanied
my every bite, jamming my senses with cursed air. Well, I hadn't returned until I decided to do this report, so, don't say I never did anything for
you. It's a lame fish taco...
Even without the smell, I wouldn't recommend any of the stalls near the fish market. Let the amateurs have at these. You're quest lies elsewhere.
#9-Tacos Corona
just north of Juarez on Espinoza
Tacos Corona, while being better than a Back Market experience, falls in the category of below average. Like most of the stands, it is a family run
operation, mothers and daughters, cousins, and grandmothers. They've been around for 40 years, and the current family member that owns the stand has
had this place for 17 years.
All of the stands use their oil a couple of times, which I don't mind. A seasoned oil of lard, yes, all these tacos are cooked in lard. But, it must
be strained and filtered, and changed when needed.
While the condiments were acceptable here..... the batter was very dark, not the golden brown crispy outside you crave. The flavor and texture
damaging bits were visibly floating around the comal, resulting in a coarse, oily crust.
Mako shark was used, a quality fish, but the flavor was an upfront saltiness with no substance on the back end. The problem here is in the frying.
#8-Tacos Don Zefe
on the corner of Riveroll and Mutualismo
Tacos Don Zefe is a taqueria, and one of the well known destinations thanks to a story by Chris Cognac.
There's a very pleasant seating area, and a formal stand that seems more California than Baja, like a hot dog stand.
The taco was made with angelito, Angel Shark, on a fresh tortilla. It's served traditionally, a warmed tortilla with the fried fish is given to the
customer to indulge his/her inner taquero. Standard condiments are available, nothing that stands out though.
The seasoning is rather dull here, and a few bites leaves you wanting less, as in why did I order this. Also, the frying technique needs to improve in
order for this stand to hang with the big boys.
#7-Tacos "Nemo"
on the corner of 6th and Gastellum
Like most of the stands here, Tacos Nemo is a family run joint. They've got a cute name and mascot. Can you say copyright infringement?
There appears to be a pattern here. Second tier fish taco stands use the less expensive angelito. There's no difference in price, so I think angelito,
a slighty more affordable fish perhaps allows for a greater profit margin.
Only slightly better than Don Zefe's, Tacos Nemo also suffers from the same deficits in flavor, and fry technique. Finding Nemo? Nah, I don't think
so.
#6-Tacos Lulu
on the corner of Juarez and Floresta
Oh how I wanted to love Tacos Lulu. A family run stand, mother and daughter working alongside another family member. A family recipe, that luxurious
dogfish, and just a great group of people.
This is a much more engaging fish taco than the previous ones, but just didn't inspire. They have some friendly regular customers, as I'm sure all
these stands enjoy.
The balance of crispy outside, tender inside, and seasoning here are so crucial to the fish taco. This was clearly a superior taco to numbers 10
through 7, but the only achievement here is mediocrity.
#5-Tacos Castillo
On the corner of Juarez and Castillo
The big surprise of all the places I went to was Tacos Castillo, a stand I had never heard of anywhere.
This is a tasty fish taco, well seasoned, and the frying here is competent. The condiments here were solid, and a fine roasted chiles salsa added a
little character.
This is the kind of stand that would be outstanding here in Los Angeles, if they could work out the sourcing issues, of course. This stand uses
angelito.
#4-Tacos Mi Ranchito El Fenix
on the corner of Espinosa and 6th
Tacos Mi Ranchito El Fenix is the stand everyone talks about. It is more inviting than the original down the street because it has seating, and a
taqueria style structure.
The frying here is consistent and expert. This is the benchmark fish taco in Ensenada, that solid workhorse that always brings it.
Fine condiments, and just a brilliant red and a tangy green pair of salsas allow for a pure Baja fish taco expression. Cazon, of course, is used at
Tacos Mi Ranchito El Fenix.
But, Puesto El Fenix is better than Mi Ranchito El Fenix.
And now for the fish taco Holy Trinity. These stands are all worthy of your attention, and a crawl of these three traditional stands should be
included in your Ensenada itinerary along with falling off the bar drunk and hitting your face on the floor boards of Hussong's Cantina, and getting
your name engraved on a grain of rice. Who does that?
#3-Tacos La Floresta
on the corner of Floresta and Juarez
Tacos La Floresta is a no name stand located on Av. Floresta . It is truly a shacky shack. When I arrived there was a flock of hungry fish taco fiends
gathered 'round.
This is excellence, perfect frying of the rare mako shark. The owner Rica, is a sweet lady, who sweetly smiles and calmy directs her crew as she
facilely cranks out stellar fish tacos. The flavors are subtle, but that crust, and clean fish flavor meld into a refined cooperation of textures and
savors. Crunchy, hot, cold, tender, fruity, creamy, and wet satisfaction.
All products used to finish your tacos are exceptional.
These are the kind of fish tacos that Baja dreams are made of. Fish taco worshippers concentrate about this stand eating in silence, only intermittent
conversation interrupts the feeding frenzy of shark eating man!
#2-Puesto Fenix
the corner of Juarez and Espinosa
Puesto Fenix would be my last stop on this fish taco odyssey. Having found three gems, I took time out to celebrate, by ordering another fish taco,
carefree, sans camera. I just kicked back and actually felt a huge burden had been lifted off of my shoulders. OK, not really.
I hung out for awhile at the end of the fish taco portion of the day. By 5pm, most fish taco stands are giving way to the night time tacos, carne
asada, al pastor, or suadero.
When I asked the team at Puesto Fenix what kind of fish they used, a very serious gentleman responded, "filete de cazon." I like that. Yes, give it
its proper due, dogfish fillet homes!
Here, the same green salsa from Mi Ranchito El Fenix, but the difference between the small chain in taste is substantial.
This taco is more boldly flavored, a noteworthy taco. If this stand is why you're praising El Fenix, then you are justified, if not, just walk one
block north on Av. Espinosa and your perspective shall improve by leaps and bounds. I never saw the reason in plugging El Fenix until I stopped here.
As all of the top three stands, an expert balance of all the components of cooking, quality of ingredients, and condiments is key. While I love Tacos
Floresta and could easily spend an afternoon there, Puesto Fenix has a more robust flavor in the batter.
#1-Fish Tacos Ensenada
on the corner of Juarez and Gastellum
My number one fish taco stand in Ensenada has been close to my heart for many years. It's definitely not because of the name, Fish Tacos Ensenada. I
was reluctant to share this stand back in my chowhound days, always referring people to Mi Ranchito El Fenix. When I brought a large group of
bloggers, chefs, restaurateurs and writers down in the summer of 2009, we went to Mi Ranchito El Fenix. I hadn't finished putting my favorite stand to
the Pepsi challenge.
I only shared this place with small groups, and close friends. A recent e-mail from a reader inspired me to finish this run down, so I could without
hesitation, share this special stand.
The stand is, well, of course, a family run operation. A woman from El Salvador moved to Ensenada, got married and in time opened a fish taco stand
with her husband. These days, Yasmin, the cute young lady pictured here, works alongside her sisters, and their mom.
This is the only stand that has such a mob of killer salsas. Everything from standard creations to the creative little numbers crafted by the owner
and her daughters. The salsas are always changing, colorful, and vibrant.
The freshly fried cazon here is a sight to behold. Fish Tacos Ensenada is old school, just a tortilla with a comely piece of plump fish are given to
the lucky diners. As much as you want to race to condiment while the fish is at its peak, you are likely to give this baby the once over, just for a
second though.
They've got everything here: fresh cabbage, pickled cabbage, six to eight salsas, toasted chile de arbol, mayo, and crema agria. Consistently, the
fish sings with virtuosity. I would drive here just for a fish taco, and I have.
Like Puesto Fenix, the seasoning here in upfront, the cooking is sublime, but the difference is in the condiments, and the overall flavor of this fish
taco. It's good enough to make a frat boy moon his buddies and lose himself in base hyperbole. "Oh my god, dude, this taco is like.....SO awesome."
It's the end of a day glorious day tasting wine in the Valle de Guadalupe, and I approach Highway 1. Do I head north, or do I head into town? Perhaps,
just one taco before I hit the road. I'm not really hungry, but my craving can't be denied.
Fish tacos, or tacos de pescado, as they are known in Mexico, are a universal pleasure. You're not wrong to want to hit up the best while in town.
Your expectations are high, so allow me to take you to the promised land of milk and honey. Set your sights on my beloved Fish Tacos Ensenada, the
famed Puesto Fenix, and the local favorite Tacos La Floresta, and experience the best fish tacos Ensenada has to offer.
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JESSE
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The best fish taco is way way east of the city, in a place full of second hand stores. Theres a little stand in the middle of the street, and the
tacos are the best i ever had.
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BajaNomad
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| Quote: | Originally posted by JESSE
...in a place full of second hand stores. |
Mercado de Los Globos?
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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JESSE
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| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaNomad
| Quote: | Originally posted by JESSE
...in a place full of second hand stores. |
Mercado de Los Globos? |
SI!!!!
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DENNIS
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| Quote: | Originally posted by JESSE
The best fish taco is way way east of the city, in a place full of second hand stores. Theres a little stand in the middle of the street, and the
tacos are the best i ever had. |
I agree. Shrimp Tacos as well. Excellent.
Another place that has been mentioned is a stand on the road to la Bufadora, about a mile west of the Maneadero turnoff, in front of Albercas Ramos.
Excellent.
Stopped in there the other day and was told by someone of the Siete Mares Soup they have. She said it was "to kill for." [I think that means it's
good]
Fish Taco....14 Ps
Shrimp Taco......16 Ps
Siete Mares....???
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Bajafun777
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My buddies and me use to enjoy the drinking before the fishing and there use to be two little hole in the wall places on the same street as Husson's
cantina but do not remember the names. Maybe it was the beer flavoring we already had in our stomachs or maybe just being with good friends made
those fish tacos great to remember,LOL.
My buddy that died a few years ago had us always go to the fish market and he watched the oil they cooked in before we sat down to eat. He had
several places there we had to have fish tacos before we went to our hotel and before we left just good food, good friends and remembering makes me
miss them all! Take Care & Travel Safe---- "No Hurry, No Worry, Just FUN" bajafun777
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Bob H
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| Quote: | Originally posted by JESSE
| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaNomad
| Quote: | Originally posted by JESSE
...in a place full of second hand stores. |
Mercado de Los Globos? |
SI!!!! |
Can you post directions to this area?
Edit: Ok, I found this link about this market.
http://www.ensenada-baja-vacations.com/los-globos.html
[Edited on 7-20-2011 by Bob H]
The SAME boiling water that softens the potato hardens the egg. It's about what you are made of NOT the circumstance.
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DENNIS
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That's it, Bob. East on 9th from Reforma /Hwy 1, three blocks east. [I think they mean three stop signs]
At the third stop sign, there will be a used furniture store on the left corner and a used appliance store on the right.
Turn right at that corner and park wherever you can. The taco stand is in the street 100 feet from the corner.
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Bob H
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| Quote: | Originally posted by DENNIS
That's it, Bob. East on 9th from Reforma /Hwy 1, three blocks east. [I think they mean three stop signs]
At the third stop sign, there will be a used furniture store on the left corner and a used appliance store on the right.
Turn right at that corner and park wherever you can. The taco stand is in the street 100 feet from the corner. |
Thanks for the details Dennis! I think I've driven by it a few times but didn't know where to park, etc. This is good info...
The SAME boiling water that softens the potato hardens the egg. It's about what you are made of NOT the circumstance.
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JESSE
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| Quote: | Originally posted by DENNIS
That's it, Bob. East on 9th from Reforma /Hwy 1, three blocks east. [I think they mean three stop signs]
At the third stop sign, there will be a used furniture store on the left corner and a used appliance store on the right.
Turn right at that corner and park wherever you can. The taco stand is in the street 100 feet from the corner. |
IMHO, the best gosh darnn fish tacos in the world.
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Bob H
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There is a fantastic place for fish/shrimp tacos just North of El Sauzal, right where the walking overpass bridge used to be, by the Police
substation. The stand is right by the street and there is a little parking lot there. You can see this stand on the left hand side as you are
headed South as you are just entering El Sauzal.
These fish/shrimp tacos are to die for!!
Elgatoloco will back me up on this, right?
The SAME boiling water that softens the potato hardens the egg. It's about what you are made of NOT the circumstance.
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woody with a view
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bob H
There is a fantastic place for fish/shrimp tacos just North of El Sauzal, right where the walking overpass bridge used to be, by the Police
substation. The stand is right by the street and there is a little parking lot there. You can see this stand on the left hand side as you are
headed South as you are just entering El Sauzal.
These fish/shrimp tacos are to die for!!
Elgatoloco will back me up on this, right? |
pictures of the place, please!
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Bob H
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| Quote: | Originally posted by woody with a view
| Quote: | Originally posted by Bob H
There is a fantastic place for fish/shrimp tacos just North of El Sauzal, right where the walking overpass bridge used to be, by the Police
substation. The stand is right by the street and there is a little parking lot there. You can see this stand on the left hand side as you are
headed South as you are just entering El Sauzal.
These fish/shrimp tacos are to die for!!
Elgatoloco will back me up on this, right? |
pictures of the place, please! |
I had pictures of this place and now I cannot find them. Let me do a little research and at least give you the name of this place. I'll get back to
ya.... Bob H
The SAME boiling water that softens the potato hardens the egg. It's about what you are made of NOT the circumstance.
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elgatoloco
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bob H
There is a fantastic place for fish/shrimp tacos just North of El Sauzal, right where the walking overpass bridge used to be, by the Police
substation. The stand is right by the street and there is a little parking lot there. You can see this stand on the left hand side as you are
headed South as you are just entering El Sauzal.
These fish/shrimp tacos are to die for!!
Elgatoloco will back me up on this, right? |
Tacos Jaliscience - closed 
MAGA
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bajasammy
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I was just at El J last Sunday enjoying their incredible Shrimp Tacos, but it does seem to close early sometimes. Located close to El Trailero, just
a bit North...
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Bob H
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| Quote: | Originally posted by bajasammy
I was just at El J last Sunday enjoying their incredible Shrimp Tacos, but it does seem to close early sometimes. Located close to El Trailero, just
a bit North... |
That's the place! Glad to hear it is still open for business!!!!
The SAME boiling water that softens the potato hardens the egg. It's about what you are made of NOT the circumstance.
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elgatoloco
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| Quote: | Originally posted by bajasammy
I was just at El J last Sunday enjoying their incredible Shrimp Tacos, but it does seem to close early sometimes. Located close to El Trailero, just
a bit North... |
Good to hear! We were down last month and there was a chain link fence right up against the stand from the building behind and they were closed at
2:00 PM on a Saturday. Maybe they were on vacation?
MAGA
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BajaNomad
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| Quote: | Originally posted by JESSE
| Quote: | Originally posted by DENNIS
That's it, Bob. East on 9th from Reforma /Hwy 1, three blocks east. [I think they mean three stop signs]
At the third stop sign, there will be a used furniture store on the left corner and a used appliance store on the right.
Turn right at that corner and park wherever you can. The taco stand is in the street 100 feet from the corner. |
IMHO, the best gosh darn fish tacos in the world. |
This the place? 
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
https://www.regionalinternet.com
Affordable Domain Name Registration/Management & cPanel Web Hosting - since 1999 |
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JESSE
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| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaNomad
| Quote: | Originally posted by JESSE
| Quote: | Originally posted by DENNIS
That's it, Bob. East on 9th from Reforma /Hwy 1, three blocks east. [I think they mean three stop signs]
At the third stop sign, there will be a used furniture store on the left corner and a used appliance store on the right.
Turn right at that corner and park wherever you can. The taco stand is in the street 100 feet from the corner. |
IMHO, the best gosh darn fish tacos in the world. |
This the place? |
THATS THE PLACE!!! awesome tacos.
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DENNIS
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Great place. And if you want a Reyn Spooner Hawaiian shirt for 20 Ps, just walk across the street and start diggin'.
I love the Segundas.
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