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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6343
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
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Mood: TEQUILA!
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CHRISTMAS/NEW YEAR'S TRIP/ROAD CONDITIONS...& LOTS OF PHOTOS.
I finally had some time to sit down and write a proper trip report depicting our trek from Orange County to La Ribera, our final southern destination.
This trip was the first time we decided to take the Kayak strapped down on top of the FJ Cruiser,
In front of Mama Espinoza's in El Rosario
[I must mention that the primary purpose of this outing was to look at the driving conditions/roads with a critical look toward driving our 45’RV
while pulling a 26’ enclosed trailer. I.E. which roads are acceptable to drive with a minimum of suspension stress].
A couple of months earlier we purchase our FMMs and insurance through Discover Baja (whom I’ve been a member for 20+ years.) This minimized the entry
hassle into Baja.
Lots of beautiful scenery with cacti being in full bloom:
We started on the 18 of December 2011, and our original border crossing south was to be through Mexicali. However, we were half way to Mexicali, and
realized I left my cell phone somewhere. After returning home and not finding the phone, (realized it was lost somewhere), I decided to purchase a new
one from our provider. This proved to be a daunting task since we had a business account and I had none of my account information with me. After
retrieving my account info and now six hours later, we decided to cross at Otay Mesa, where we were pulled over into the declaration lane even tough
we got a green light. The officials wanted me to declare the kayak on the roof of the FJ. We went back and forth for two hours with different
officials (my Spanish was really helpful). I finally came across the top official and he wrote on the paperwork “PASS”. However, I still had an hour’s
wait in line to obtain the proper green sticker.
Consequently…
Our first night was spent at Poco Cielo in La Mision.
Left very early and headed south.
The construction just south of Maneadero was horrendous! I had rained during the night and it was a muddy mess full of giant potholes. Had to follow
several trucks all the way to the passing area just south of Santo Thomàs. It was a VERY slow going.
A fresh hit-n-run by a truck the night before
Lots of cattle, burros, horses almost on the road
Our first stop of the day was El Rosario and purchased our first fuel tank there and had lunch at Mama Espinosa. I know there has been some bad press
about Mama’s place here on Nomads; however, we had one of the two best Baja meals there. We had the obligatory lobster burritos, and this time we also
ordered the crab chile rellenos as well as the crab soup. Absolutely to die for!
The road going south just past the military check point north of Guerrero Negro was also still under construction. Was about 8 miles of good graded
dirt. No major delays.
It was almost dark…sooo…
Our first night we spent in Guerrero Negro at the Malarrimo motel because of the security in parking (walled in hotel grounds). We arrived at dusk and
needed a place to shower and bed-down. Our experience there was less than stellar. Started with the bad attitude of the desk clerk at check-in, and
the attitude followed with the service and food at the restaurant. Won’t stay or eat there again!
After some coffee, (we travel with a brewer and fresh grounds), we left early morning to head to Shari’s place at Bahia Asuncion. Lots of heavy fog
therefore the going was slow on the way to Vizcaino. Filled up with gas in Vizcaino and then made the turn toward the Bahia Asuncion turn-off. The
road out of Vizcaino has not improved at all. Seemed like thousands of potholes until we got to the BA turn-off.
The butter-smooth road started when we turned left toward BA. About a 40-minute drive later we arrived at one of the most beautiful bays in all of
Baja. We spotted Shari’s place right away, but she was not home so we drove around town and got acquainted with all the streets and business
establishments. Friendly and cohesive community, absolutely gorgeous! There was a small burrito and torta stand by the beach, next to the boat launch
ramp. We introduced ourselves to the owners and bought some of each then headed to the waterfront and had a small picnic. We opened a bottle of wine
and had a satisfying lunch.
The christening of our kayak
Sunset from Sari's rock
Great Promotional sign
Breaking out the celebratory beers at Shari's
Unusual ALTO sign in BA
Shari and Juan's place
Burrito/torta stand at the launch ramp
Party central!
Our launch ramp picnic
Room with a view
Our Rock Room at Shari's
Carb and lobster pots @ San Roque
Shari's blow hole
San Roque mission
Shari & us
We later arrived at Shari’s place again. Since this was our first visit to her place, this sort of seemed like we were opening a dream. Seen pictures
on Nomads for years, and finally made it here. Shari was this cute little ball of fire and Juan was the perfect gentleman. He could easily be compared
to the Mexican Dons and Caballeros. Shari was running around everywhere and stressing out because of her daughter’s wedding the next week.
We unloaded our luggage into the “ROCK ROOM” which I can compare to a cute antique-filled stone cabin. The ocean view was awe-inspiring. We just had
to pull up a couple of chairs just so we can soak in the surroundings. AMAZING place. Waves crashing on the cliffs below. The little blowhole puffing
away. we opened some beers as well as a new bottle of tequila and soaked in the surroundings.
San Roque was visible from Shari’s porch so we headed out there with the FJ. About 20 minutes later we arrived to the fishing village…Juan’s
birthplace. We drove on the beach sand just so we could try out our 4-wheel drive.
After taking Shari out to dinner, we were ready to get to bed, but not before a couple of shooters of tequila.
The next morning we wake up to the brewing of our coffee maker, and an hour later, Shari prepares an egg and lobster breakfast. Really gourmet!
Afterwards we rounded up some of Juan’s friends and met them at the co-op launch ramp where we unloaded our kayak. We were going to break a bottle of
champagne over the bow but were talked out of the gesture because the people did not want to “waste” the champagne (hard to find within 150 miles), so
we just popped the cork and poured it over one of the stabilizers and handed the rest to Shari. Off we went for a magnificent ride to the main island.
We returned by 4 p.m. where some locals were there to help us load the kayak on top of the FJ.
After a shower and an early dinner we returned to Shari’s for a party with some local friends.
Next morning we headed out of town and stopped at the local PEMEX at BA’s entrance. This really is a different PEMEX…wood shack with six barrels of
gas, and a 12-volt pump that needed to be primed. We filled up anyway after I put some additive in the FJ’s gas tank.
The local PEMEX at BA
The PEMEX attendant at BA
The drive through Santa Rosalia was slow due to the road construction north of town, so we stopped for lunch in Mulegé. The place was overrun by
retiree expats. I think there were more Americans than Mexicans in town. Tough place to drive through and park a vehicle. I noticed there was an RV
park in the middle of town. Had a chuckle since the drive into the lots would be quite difficult with anything larger than 20’!
Later that day we stopped for gas in Loreto. We were almost on empty and knew of the stingy pumps at this station. Sure enough…they managed to pump
the equivalent of 18 gallons into a 16-gallon gas tank that was down to about 4 gallons left in the tank.
Onward through the slow mountain going to Ciudad Insurgentes and Ciudad Constitución where we were prepared for the local cops. Did not see any and we
ended up staying at a local motel and left by 7 a.m. (well before the cops were on the road).
La Paz Malecón
The only open parking spot in front of Casa Tuscany
Our room at Casa Tuscany
Free tequila samples at grocery store
We finally make it to La Paz and checked into the CASA TUSCANY Bed & Breakfast, a few hundred feet from the famous Malecón. Afterwards we stopped
a taco stand for lunch and went to visit with Wiley (comitan) and John (bajabass).
Comitan and Bajabass, plus our wives
La Paz lavamatica where the attendant did your entire laundry load of 100 pesos!
The next morning we went to Playa Tecolote to launch the kayak for a trip and picnic on Isla Espiritu Santo. Fate was not with us. Southern Baja was
in the midst of a 100-year wind event, and the normally calm Tecolote beach was awash with large waves. Undaunted by the waves, we decided to launch
through them, and almost made it. We pushed through 4 large waves, but the fifth one was about 6 feet tall and it pushed us straight up and backwards
onto the sand where we broke the rudder and one of the stabilizer bolts. The capsize also cased us to lose some parts on top of the kayak as well as
Jana’s Ferragamo sunglasses. We managed to find everything at low tide except for the sunglasses. Somewhere on the bay is a sea lion wearing Jana’s
glasses.
We still had the picnic but had to settle for the sand on Tecolote beach. That night we tried to eat at Jesse’s place, TRES VIRGENES restaurant, but
he was closed for the Christmas weekend.
These bikers came all the way from British Columbia
Our broken kayak
Launch site at Tecolote beach
Picnic at Tecolote beach
Monday morning we headed out to La Ribera, to meet with my buddy George (OSPREY).
The road down south via Mexico 1 from LA Paz was not the best. Lots of slow mountain driving. George later tells me I should have driven on Mexico 286
to San Juan De Los Planes to San Antonio (all latest maps show this road to be gravel, but the road is indeed paved and paved very well).
Personable character I met at San Antonio
George Osprey, wife Lynda and ourselves
My encounter with George and wife Lynda was one of the two highlights of our trip. He made us one of his famous Bloody Marys and after a few hours of
trading life stories and writing anecdotes it was time for us to leave. We planned on spending more time visiting when we fly to SJD on Southwest
later in the year.
It was almost dark by the time we arrived in La Paz again so we stayed at another La Paz motel near Centenario.
Early morning we headed back to Ciudad Constitución and managed to see only one cop on the opposite side that was ticketing (or extorting) another
American in a pick up.
Mulege loncheria
Loncheria menu
Made it to Mulege in time for lunch. This time we stopped at a local eatery that served goat birria, pozole, and goat head broth. This stand was
across the street from the well-frequented and loud gringo hangout. After this delicious meal we headed to San Bruno for a visit with Jim (PERSCADOR).
We stayed longer than planned because of the wealth of information about fishing that Jim possessed. Jim also possessed the largest collection of
fishing rods this side of a Bass Pro store.
Jim as well as myself
This man possesses the largest wealth of information on Baja fishing. Then we finally made to San Ignacio and the famous Ignacio Inn B&B. This
time we got lucky and stayed at one of the two yurts next to the river. This was a life-altering experience to sleep right besides the roosting local
birds and their soothing sounds.
Breakfast at the yurts
Parking was tight!
Yurts
The next morning we feasted on a breakfast of Gary’s homemade sausages, potatoes, eggs and a variety of salsas. We were going to visit KUYIMÀ’s camp
at the Laguna, but after stopping at their office cross from the San Ignacio mission, we were told that there was only one whale in the lagoon. Not
worth making the trip. So we headed to Laguna Ojo De Libre where there were about a dozen whales so we purchased a panga ticket (500 Pesos) for the
three-hour boat ride. We saw two tails, three breaches, two eyeballs and many humps. Well worth the money!
Informational at whale building
Whale boat at Ojo De Libre
Whales at Ojo De Libre
For the evening we stayed at the Cowboy motel. Just as secure as the Malarrimo, but much more helpful people as compared to Malarrimo.
Mario's palapa restaurant:
Dinner was at Mario’s restaurant, about a mile north of the town in a round palapa-looking building. There we had one of the two best meals in Baja.
The margaritas were extremely powerful and literally could not be fully downed without staggering out of the place. Jana only had about two sips. I
don’t know what they put in them, but they were WILD!
Early morning we headed back north again.
We saw the turn-off to Santa Rosalillita and made the turn. OH MY GOD! What a gorgeous (I can not find a better description) bay! No facilities, and
maybe 40 houses there. This place is as much a dream as Bahia Asunción is. We drove around the surrounding roads and forgot about the gas in our tank,
and the lack of gas stations while headed to El Rosario. We coasted on most of the down hills and made it to Baja Cactus literally on fumes. Very nice
lunch again at Mama Espinoza’s of crab soup, a crab relleno and a lobster relleno.
Mama's Menu
The crab soup
Crab Chile rellenos
On the way into San Quintín we decided to head for the beach and spent about two hours driving the sand dunes and collecting giant sand dollars near
the water.
Stayed at Jardines who also had great food and margaritas.
Sunset on the bay near Jardines
By now it is December 30th and we had reservations at Poco Cielo again. When we checked in, several Nomads were headed south and spotted our FJ with
the kayak on top, and sent us u2u’s to let us know we were spotted. Saturday, the 30th, we had lunch with Terry (bajaguy) in Ensenada. His knowledge
of the local businesses helped me find a talabteria (leather shop) that would custom-make me a bandolero to carry some tequila shot glasses. The belts
were a perfect fit! Thanks for your help, Terry!
New year’s eve was spent at Poco Cielo. We spent it in the Polynesian room and had a local troubadour sing for us for a couple of hours, and drank Dom
Perignon champagne. I did not know (and did not find out until later that Woody was having dinner at the restaurant below).
We left Monday the second of January and crossed at Tecate where we were the third car in line. NICE!
The portable CAR WASH person in Ensenada
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15939
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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Mood: Everchangin'
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great trip Udo. sorry we missed you! funny thing is we saw your rig in New Year Eve morning but continued to endenada for the day. on the way back and
at dinner we didn't see it. it must have been the tequila!
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6343
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
Member Is Offline
Mood: TEQUILA!
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We had parked the rig in the other lot next door. The one with a locking gate, plus it is about 15 feet below road level.
| Quote: | Originally posted by woody with a view
great trip Udo. sorry we missed you! funny thing is we saw your rig in New Year Eve morning but continued to endenada for the day. on the way back and
at dinner we didn't see it. it must have been the tequila! |
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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SFandH
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7084
Registered: 8-5-2011
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Thanks for the photos and narrative!!
How do you like the Hobie Adventure Island? I'm considering getting one thinking it would be perfect for Bahia Concepcion. I like the idea of paddling
in the morning and sailing in the afternoon.
Will the sailing rig hold up in stiff winds? Do you think it's sturdily built?
[Edited on 1-23-2012 by SFandH]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64741
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Fantastico Udo! Great trip and details... Pretty much says it all.
Interesting on how some can actually have a great meal at Mama Espinoza's and bad one at Malarrimo's... but just how much things can change in
Baja... Shari and Juan are great hosts and make you feel as part of the community as they can. Too bad Jesse's place was closed... maybe next time!?
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akshadow
Nomad
Posts: 287
Registered: 2-1-2007
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road conditions for RV
Did you get an answer to the question of which roads were acceptable for use by your RV with a trailer attached?
"I must mention that the primary purpose of this outing was to look at the driving conditions/roads with a critical look toward driving our 45’RVwhile
pulling a 26’ enclosed trailer. I.E. which roads are acceptable to drive with a minimum of suspension stress]."
Ron San Felipe Oct, Nov. Feb. Mar. April. remainder in Juneau Ak
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sancho
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2524
Registered: 10-6-2004
Location: OC So Cal
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That is the 2nd time I've read of a crossing at Otay and
being questioned about a kayak, the other was being
asked for a bill of sale for the kayak.
Liked you putting pics of some of the regular BN
posters
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6343
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
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Mood: TEQUILA!
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I have another almost equal rig (which IS the Adventure Island).
This particular rig is our Tandem Island.
The AI is set up for fishing, complete with bait tank, VHF radio and Lowrance HDS5 fish finder.
Either rig is perfect for Bahia Concepción.
Now about the stiff winds. Our rig was sturdy enough to launch through several waves with 25 MPH side winds...perfect for launching. But a 6' wave
flipped us backwards and broke the rudder pin and one of the stabilizer bolts. The boat was supplied with spares, therefore no sweat in fixing it. We
decided not relaunch the second time and opted for the picnic next to the FJ.
Both the TI and AI are extremely sturdy...check the Hobie kayak forums.
| Quote: | Originally posted by SFandH
Thanks for the photos and narrative!!
How do you like the Hobie Adventure Island? I'm considering getting one thinking it would be perfect for Bahia Concepcion. I like the idea of paddling
in the morning and sailing in the afternoon.
Will the sailing rig hold up in stiff winds? Do you think it's sturdily built?
[Edited on 1-23-2012 by SFandH] |
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6343
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
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Mood: TEQUILA!
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Yes I did.
Drive slow through the topes in the towns. If headed to SJDC do not take Mex 1 past La Paz. Very windy and narrow. I explained which road to take,
thanks to Osprey's advice.
The road from Vizcaino to BA is tentative at best in it's current condition, thousands of pot holes. Although the parts Mextrans fixed were excellent.
About 30% of the road is bad. Thanks to the upgraded suspension (FOX shocks) on the FJ, we were able to navigate it at full speed.
| Quote: | Originally posted by akshadow
Did you get an answer to the question of which roads were acceptable for use by your RV with a trailer attached?
"I must mention that the primary purpose of this outing was to look at the driving conditions/roads with a critical look toward driving our 45’RVwhile
pulling a 26’ enclosed trailer. I.E. which roads are acceptable to drive with a minimum of suspension stress]." |
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6343
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
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Mood: TEQUILA!
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At Malarrimo's David, there were only two other customer's, and it took us an hour to get served. Margaritas were from a mix, and were really bad. Who
says a restaurant can't screw up steamed clams. Guacamole tasted like is was made the day before. Chips were stale!
| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Fantastico Udo! Great trip and details... Pretty much says it all.
Interesting on how some can actually have a great meal at Mama Espinoza's and bad one at Malarrimo's... but just how much things can change in
Baja... Shari and Juan are great hosts and make you feel as part of the community as they can. Too bad Jesse's place was closed... maybe next time!?
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[Edited on 1-23-2012 by Udo]
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6343
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
Member Is Offline
Mood: TEQUILA!
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Next time we are crossing at Tecate or Mexicali. We were told by some regular crossers that it it a no "hassle" crossing.
| Quote: | Originally posted by sancho
That is the 2nd time I've read of a crossing at Otay and
being questioned about a kayak, the other was being
asked for a bill of sale for the kayak.
Liked you putting pics of some of the regular BN
posters |
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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SFandH
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7084
Registered: 8-5-2011
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Thanks for the Hobie kayak info.
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5867
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
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Udo, fantastic trip report details and photos! Loved it. I really like your Hobie kayak rig, which seems to be perfect for Baja, especially anywhere
along the Sea of Cortez.
The SAME boiling water that softens the potato hardens the egg. It's about what you are made of NOT the circumstance.
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BornFisher
Super Nomad
Posts: 2107
Registered: 1-11-2005
Location: K-38 Santa Martha/Encinitas
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Great report, love the kayak.
Hope your mew phone is an Iphone with the "Find my Phone" app. If your Iphone is lost, the app will pinpoint the area where it is!
"When you catch a fish, you open the door of happiness."
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nbacc
Senior Nomad
Posts: 770
Registered: 12-27-2008
Location: Northern California
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Great Report!!! Nancy
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Natalie Ann
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2819
Registered: 8-22-2003
Location: Berkeley
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Nice trip report, Udo. How long did you take, door to door?
nena
Be yourself, everyone else is already taken.
.....Oscar Wilde
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6343
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
Member Is Offline
Mood: TEQUILA!
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Left December 18, and returned January 2.
The trip felt a little hurried, however. because of slower driving than I planned. We had done this same trip a couple of times before (within the
same time line), but losing 9 hours (because of a phone loss...I DID get a new iPHONE 4s) caused some stress. Also the change of itinerary from
spending the first night in San Felipe to spending the first night near Ensenada caused us more time loss.
Would have been shorter to drive San Felipe to Mex 1.
| Quote: | Originally posted by Natalie Ann
Nice trip report, Udo. How long did you take, door to door?
nena |
Drove about 2,700 miles, (4,345Km.)
[Edited on 1-23-2012 by Udo]
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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BajaBlanca
Select Nomad
Posts: 13195
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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wow...that was reallfy a good informative report .. made us feel like we were right there with you ! great photos to accompany. I give you an A+
(teacher mode Blanca hahaha)
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6343
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
Member Is Offline
Mood: TEQUILA!
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Thank you BajaBlanca for the complement.
I decided to write the story over the weekend, edited several times, saved it in Word.
The cut'n paste into Nomad format. Then read the story again and added the photos to go with each part of the story.
Makes sense, huh?
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64741
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Udo
Thank you BajaBlanca for the complement.
I decided to write the story over the weekend, edited several times, saved it in Word.
The cut'n paste into Nomad format. Then read the story again and added the photos to go with each part of the story.
Makes sense, huh? |
Pefectly... and you get to spell check (at least the English words) that way!
I do notice on my son's laptop using Google Chrome, there is automatic spell checker on Nomad!
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