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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6346
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
Member Is Offline
Mood: TEQUILA!
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UDO & JANA'S TRIP SOUTH.
There are so many preparations for a 16 day trip to Baja. I packed our kayak and diving equipment, but still had to make room for taking down supplies
that our friends needed from NOB.
The FJ Cruiser was fairly well packed and weighed down. Keep in mind that we are now packing the new ARB refrigerator/freezer (12V/120V), got a great
deal. Just punch in the desired temperature, and all your food is kept cold as long as it is plugged in. You can even freeze fish overnight while
plugged in to 120V. It will hold about 60 lbs of fish.
Our first stop was to pick up some Baja Missions book from David K, and ended up meeting him at his dentist's office in Mission Valley. The books were
for Shari and some friends.
Then the major hitch:
Three days before, our current 180 days FMM were confiscated at the Cabo airport, and refused to give them back.
Our original plan was to cross at Tecate, but ended up crossing at the new Tijuana Customs crossing...what a beautiful way to enter Baja!
Totally transparent and informative. We drove to the INM/Declaration parking area to the far right. Highly informative personnel working the area.
The new FMM's ended up costing us another $50.00 U.S. and paid the funds at the bank office across from the INM office.
Passports and FMM stamped...and away we went!
Not so fast...
We got the green light, gate went up, and after crossing, the guard stopped us and wanted to see our declaration certificate.
In Spanish, I explained that we did not stop at the declaration office but at the INM office to get our visas.
After conferring with another official, they let us through.
Our first stop was to stop at the Mercado Hidalgo to pick up some fresh fruit and veggies to take to Shari's place.
Second stop was to stop at Licores Don Pisto's in Puerto Nuevo, just south of Rosarito Beach. We picked up 12 bottles of Almedrado, and six bottles of
Tequila.
It rained from the time we picked up the books from DK all the way to the military checkpoint just north of Guerrero Negro.
The Baja mud is by far the gooiest crap that ever comes from the ground.
Our first night was spent in the new San Quintin Valley Hotel. The rooms were well appointed with 40" TVs and Cinemax/HBO as well as the customary
Mexican channels.
The major TA-DAA was that the hotel has a restaurant on the premises, and one can order room service!
The next morning we headed south again...MORE MUD!
Then stopped at Mama Espinoza's for breakfast of lobster omelette, coffee and fresh-squeezed orange juice. We were finished by 9 a.m. and promptly
went back for another few miles of mud while traversing HWY 1. Once we got to the bridge, the mud cleared up. It rained for another 5 hours and the
mud caked on the FJ was literally pressure-washed off.
The military checkpoints south were uneventful and only a cursory look inside.
Other than the mud, there were no highway 1 detours or construction.
Linner was at Mario's Palapa about 2 KM north of Guerrero Negro.
The BEST campechana we had EVER eaten in Baja. None of the mariscos were cooked. All were CEVICHE style and raw. All natural mariscos juices and no
clamato. The two orange slices really sweetened the eating experience. Campechanas are traditionally made with some cooked as well as raw sea food. We
also ordered their guacamole, which was outstanding.
Mario's CAMPECHANA
Not the same to be said for the highway from Vizcaino to Bahia Asunción, which had about 8 miles total of craters. The road crew was chipping away at
repaving the entire road, from Vizcaino to the Asunción turn-off. The repaired part of the road, one could drive at 90 MPH, but the pot holes were so
deep that less than 10 MPH had to be adhered to.
Just cost about an extra 40 minutes of driving.
Could not wait to see again out great friends Juan and Shari.
Our first impression of the Dolphin outside and inside is that it was a dream come true!
Can we just buy this room Shari? We can spend the rest of our lives just living in that room.
La Bufadora Inn's Dolphin Room
Then we had to contaminate the room by unpacking!
We arrived at about dark time so we just unpacked our luggage and our refrigerator contents.
But still Shari greeted us with a beer and some freshly caught sashimi.
A lifestyle to be envied by most Baja veterans.
After a great night's sleep, we drove by the launch ramp and enlisted the help from a few locals.
The kayak would be safe on the beach for the next 8 days.
One of our beachfront picnics
Jana and I decided to go shopping for some local picnic supplies to go with our wine, and afterward we needed to used the 4WD on the FJ, because the
sand was very soft. After our picnic, we slowly drove the town to look at possible land purchases.
Later that day, we met with iflyfish, who was staying at lauriboat's house. Rick was without internet and needed to connect a wi-fi extender on the
roof of the house. Jana and I volunteered to go up on the roof and figure out a mount for the wi-fi device.
SUCCESS!
It now worked.
Little did I know that my personal wi-fi on my Mac Book Pro was going to give me fits for the next 15 days!
The local TUNA (Prickly pear cactus fruit) dutch baby pancakes I cooked in Iflyfish (laurieboat's) oven
Everyone's computers were working great and fast...mine I couldn't even open a browser, piggybacking off Shari's wifi. After a couple of days, I was
able to figure out that I had 8 other pages open on my browser (Safari). Once closed, and only have open one page, I was able to see my emails and
Bajanomad U2U, but was unable to either read or answer anyone. Yahoo.mx worked fine. But that was it. (yesterday I went to the Apple genius bar to
repair the browser, but after 45 minutes they advised to just change browsers and covertly suggested Firefox).
One of Shari's breakfast dishes:
Saturday and Sunday we were invited to go to Don Ramon's for shrimp tacos.
Don Ramon's
Rick took this photo of us @ Don Ramon's, AND he bought the beer!
I'm never ordering another shrimp taco from anyone else. Impossible to describe the best. I ordered about a dozen every day, and Rick (Iflyfish)
bought the beers.
Day two at Shari's place, we went kayaking and managed to go all the way around the Asunción Island, while being accompanied by a huge pack of seals
and sea lions. Their curiosity peaked at watching a watercraft they had never seen before.
Sea lions following us:
Day three was another boring day of kayaking around the island, but this time there was little to no wind and we pedaled most of the way around and
managed to get within 10 feet of the shore/rocks/sea lions.
These waves also kept following us when we were near the island
The day again ended at Shari's where Juan and his customers from the Bloody Deck membership were cleaning their day's fishing and we all shared in
yellowtail sashimi and shabu-shabu.
Day four, we went kayaking again and managed to get to San
Roque island in about 3-1/2 hours. Then the wind really started to build and got to about 28-35 MPH.
Wild and wet ride back in about 40 minutes. We took a little respite on the lee of Asunción Island, and got our breath back. We were never in any
danger and passed Juan in his panga on the way back!
One evening we had a fried turkey dinner at David's house;
What great neighbor's live in this town!
Our kayak, photo taken by Iflyfish
Celebrating a safe return day!
On Thursday and Friday the winds were really howling and decided to play it safe and not take out the kayak.
We decided to make the drive to Malarrimo beach and the fish camp, as well as a lunch stop at Bahia Tortuga.
Juan's favorite fishing rods:
At the fish camp, lots has changed from four years ago...the temporary shacks that housed the fishermen had turned into permanent housing, complete
with solar or generators as well as pilas for water. I saw my friend Elijo, who was now married and had two small children. Elijo Sr. was out on the
panga checking on lobster traps. I was told that this year is a bad lobster season so far.
The trip to Tortugas was uneventful on a fully paved road. The town had not changed much other than a few newer houses were added. The 1-1/2 lane wide
streets were still the same, restaurants were closed, the local Pemex was still open. But the major change was that the pier now had a fuel shack
complete with pumps...no more fuel delivered by barrels and gravity. The bay is still drop-dead gorgeous!
The only sign that showed the road to Puerto Nuevo (south)
At the end of the day we prepared for the end-of-the-world party on Friday, and looked at some more properties. We also went on another picnic
somewhat further south on the beach.
The last hour or so of every day, Jana and I had long walks on the beaches, and took lots of photos of the unbelievable sunsets.
Shari's world-end cake:
World end pizzas!
Wild party at Shari's on Friday for the end-of-the-world party. Fare included pizzas, fresh fish and a fabulous cake that Shari baked. I am still in
disbelief of what that chick can cook with nothing for kitchen tools!
One day, Jana realized we were running out of clean underwear, so she did some laundry:
Saturday was spent in preparation for the town's QUINCEAÑERA.
We all took an early long nap because the party was going to go all night.
What an experience!
QUINCEAN1ERA, the passing of the Barbie doll:
Sunday we left early, at about 9 a.m. Shari and Juan were still asleep. I think they went to bed at about 3 a.m. Jana and I ducked out a little
earlier. Dodged the potholes, and made a water run in Vizcaino for our coffee pot. I preparation for our few days at Ignacio inn B&B.
Sign as we enter the town of San Ignacio:
The yurts were fabulous while nestled among the date palms, lagoon, and river.
After unpacking, we took a drive to the San Ignacio lagoon. I made the turn out of downtown San Ignacio, and was looking for a spot to stop and let
the air out of the FJ tires. But the paved road just kept going. It went for another 50 kilometers!
SURPRISE!
There were about another 30 km left on dirt roads until we got to Kujimás camp. They had upgraded their camp cabins and restaurant. Hot solar showers
were also now available.
There were only 6 whales at the lagoon this day so we opted not to rent the panga to whale watch.
Kujimàs camp cabins:
San Ignacio's Lagoon Eco-signs
Next day we decided to drive to Mulege. The road was in terrific condition on Hwy 1.
Mulege was deserted. Nothing but locals anywhere. We stopped at a taco stand for some ceviche-style CHOCOLATE clams.
WOW!
When I asked, I was told that the majority of Americans had left after the last rains and subsequent river flooding. Not great for the local economy
depending on gringo seasonal traffic.
The following day we again traveled south out San Ignacio, and visited Punta Chivato (where we saw some of the most expensive houses in Baja). The bay
was calm and several kayakers were out.
The road in was as bad as could be, but I had to drive carefully because I had the kayak on the roof, and did not wish for it to come crashing through
the roof.
Going further north, we stopped in San Bruno late in the afternoon.
Another nice place to live by the sea.
(My sincerest apologies to Pescador...It was running late and if we stopped we would have been there til after dark).
Think Hawaii is the only part of the world with black-sand beaches? Santa Rosalia also has them.
One more night at Ignacio Inn, this time for Christmas dinner. Fabulous turkey. Plus they had some US-style sweet corm. Patty tells me she gets it
from a grower in Vizcaino.
Now December 26, we head north back to the border and hoping that the previous week's muds were gone.
They were!
Our first night in Baja Norte was spent in Bahia De LosAngeles, where we went for a long walk to the sand bar housing a light house
Stopped for lunch of crab soup at Mama Espinoza's (The place was packed with both locals and Gringos for the lunch crowd.)
In San Quintin we checked in the same San Quintin Valley Hotel...I still can't believe, room service in San Quintin. After checking in, we went in
search for some fresh oysters. It was mostly fruitless because most all the local oysters had been sent to other markets north, and there was only one
stand that still had a few oysters left.
We promptly ordered two dozen! Most of what they had on their counter.
MARISCOS POPEYE had the only oysters in San Quintin
San Quintin's newest hotel...and offering room service! Look for the red and white microwave towers behind the hotel.
WOW...whatta treat!
The road was still in great condition and went into Maneadero, and La Bufadora where we went to see DENNIS (who wasn't home) and Bajabound2005, who
also wasn't home. However, we did see one house for sale at Rancho Packard, that had a decent price range.
My sister is looking to move in the area.
The last couple of nights we spent at Poco Cielo, in La Mision, and went to dinner in Puerto Nuevo.
Jumbo lobster at Puerto Nuevo, near Rosarito Beach
The road to tecate was in superb condition. Did not see one cop, and our crossing was almost a record time...3 minutes!
Our record has been 0 minutes.
[Edited on 1-2-2013 by Udo]
[Edited on 1-2-2013 by Udo]
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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great trip report amigos....but those last photos have got me jonesin for oysters now...Juan & I wish you and Jana all the best for 2013 amigo!
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6346
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
Member Is Offline
Mood: TEQUILA!
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Mil gracias, Shari.
Next time, I'll take a drive to La Bocana to pick up some more oysters for all of us.
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15939
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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Mood: Everchangin'
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very nice! living the dream, eh?
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wessongroup
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 21152
Registered: 8-9-2009
Location: Mission Viejo
Member Is Offline
Mood: Suicide Hot line ... please hold
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Thanks for sharing 
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Curt63
Super Nomad
Posts: 1171
Registered: 3-28-2009
Location: San Diego, Ca.
Member Is Offline
Mood: Fish tacos and Tecate
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Looks like a great trip. So happy for you.
No worries
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jbcoug
Senior Nomad
Posts: 709
Registered: 9-24-2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Needing Baja!
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Beautiful trip, thanks for sharing it with us!
John
\"The average dog is a nicer person than the average person.\" Andy Rooney
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JohnMcfrog
Nomad
Posts: 156
Registered: 8-1-2012
Location: San Diego, Punta Abreojos
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Your trip report is a motivation for Kathy and I. Thanks for sharing.
Juanito
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Pacifico
Super Nomad
Posts: 1299
Registered: 5-26-2008
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Looks like a great trip! Thanks for posting all those pics!
"Plan your life as if you are going to live forever. Live your life as if you are going to die tomorrow." - Carlos Fiesta
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6346
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
Member Is Offline
Mood: TEQUILA!
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I sincerely feel that by posting reports, such as mine, it will motivate others to do the same and eventually conclude that it is safe to travel in
Baja, and that La Bufadora inn @ Shari's place is one of Baja's top three destinations.
| Quote: | Originally posted by JohnMcfrog
Your trip report is a motivation for Kathy and I. Thanks for sharing.
Juanito |
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Wow...now THAT is a great compliment...thank you Udo! Wait till the upstairs suite is done...I'm so stoked.
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skipowell
Nomad
Posts: 156
Registered: 11-9-2009
Location: San Diego
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Wish our paths would have crossed
udo and Jan
We arrived in BA shortly after you left, in fact Shari had a bottle of wine in her hand that you had left for her in your room. Heard great stories
about you and was onthe look aout for you as we we traveled, it appears that you were a few days ahead of us on the entire trip. We took a similar
route as you. We were fortunate enough to see some whales as we took Shari's advice to wait till the return leg and go to Scammons.
Look us up next time you are in Baja we live in San Diego but also have a home in San Antonio Del Mar just north of Rosarito. Would love to meet you
after hearing so much about you two.
Lori and Jeff
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TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Great report and pixs, thanks.
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BajaBlanca
Select Nomad
Posts: 13197
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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wow ... what a great trip you had. Sure wish you had included la bocana in your itinerary, would have loved to have met you~ but we go NOB ofr xmas
and return Dec. 26th. We gots to be home for the amazing New Year's Eve party that our local fishing cooperative sponsors.
This was an outstanding trip report - jeez, you covered road conditions, rated hotels, talked about restaurants and people that you met. GREAT !!
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boe4fun
Super Nomad
Posts: 1040
Registered: 1-22-2006
Location: Margaritaville
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Mood: Circling the drain........
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Sweet - We can't wait to get down to Bahia this March.
Two dirt roads diverged in Baja and I, I took the one less graveled by......
Soy ignorante, apático y ambivalente. No lo sé y no me importa, ni modo.
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tsquared
Newbie
Posts: 2
Registered: 12-11-2012
Location: Vancouver Island
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Thank you for the report Jan and Udo. I have only been a lurker on this board until I read your report. You posted about using your Tandem Island for
a few days but did not mention using it again. Did you unlimber it after that? I have an adventure island and with the temps around here hovering in
the low 40's i have been dreaming about using it on the Baja.
Thanks,
Tom
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64854
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Makes me want to be there ! Happy Baja Times... Good places, Good People and Good Fun... and adding to the local economy = a win, win!
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edm1
Senior Nomad
Posts: 568
Registered: 8-23-2006
Location: Oak Hills, Ca
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Great trip report, Udo and Jana. The food, they look delicious!
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edm1
Senior Nomad
Posts: 568
Registered: 8-23-2006
Location: Oak Hills, Ca
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Great trip report, Udo and Jana. The food, they look delicious!
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durrelllrobert
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7393
Registered: 11-22-2007
Location: Punta Banda BC
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Mood: thriving in Baja
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Great report but....
The road was still in great condition and went into Maneadero, and La Bufadora where we went to see DENNIS (who wasn't home) and Bajabound2005,
who also wasn't home.
Why didn't come see me? I'm just 2 houses past DENNIS.
Bob Durrell
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