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Author: Subject: stairs..another stupid question
volcano
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[*] posted on 9-26-2013 at 08:28 AM
stairs..another stupid question


we are not builders...but non-the-less...are doing all the finishes on our cabin...need to build a small set of stairs...3 steps...to a back door. Cannot find any instructions online to build steps with block. Is it o.k....if the blocks are filled with concrete? assumed to set bottom blocks in cement pad, and do some anchoring with rebar. Np power nor cement mixer...we do all by wheel barrow batches, so poured steps by us not ideal.
Thought we would cover with plaster and do a little decorative tile. Designs, photos how to's?
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vgabndo
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[*] posted on 9-26-2013 at 09:04 AM


Standard blocks are 8" high, with a mortar joint that is 8 1/2". A conventional stair riser is around an inch less than that, and that is a noticeably tall step. The combination of rise and run of a stair tread should add up to around 17 inches to feel "normal". Exterior stairs often have less rise/run for a more gentle slope. Now, if you could find some 6" blocks.....

Also, laying-out and forming stairs for a monolithic concrete pour is no huge challenge. A half sheet of strong plywood and a couple of 2x8's would do it, and pouring by hand will prevent damage from too much hydro-static pressure on the system.





The drawings show all dimensional materials, but the sides could easily be plywood.

If you did get a 'dislocation' of your forms, your tile cosmetics may just hide it nicely. After all, this is Baja construction, right?




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[*] posted on 9-26-2013 at 09:13 AM


Thanks I'm saving that



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[*] posted on 9-26-2013 at 12:55 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by volcano
we are not builders...but non-the-less...are doing all the finishes on our cabin...need to build a small set of stairs...3 steps...to a back door. Cannot find any instructions online to build steps with block. Is it o.k....if the blocks are filled with concrete? assumed to set bottom blocks in cement pad, and do some anchoring with rebar. Np power nor cement mixer...we do all by wheel barrow batches, so poured steps by us not ideal.
Thought we would cover with plaster and do a little decorative tile. Designs, photos how to's?









My neighbor built their steps much like you described, They used the 6in block and filled all the cells then filled the void under the steps with compacted soil then former and poured the steps. I have ben up and down them many times they not only fit your stride but look good also.
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roundtuit
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[*] posted on 9-26-2013 at 01:00 PM


7" high and 11" or 12' is the ideal steps.===.8' is to high and uncomfortable.



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volcano
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[*] posted on 9-26-2013 at 01:54 PM


well...it is a back entrance that does not have major use......so perfect feel is not essential...we have been either using it with no aid, or with loose shakey block
great plans if we use the wood form...thanks so much
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[*] posted on 9-26-2013 at 03:51 PM


Use 6" thick blocks. (Or 4" if you want a smaller tread)

Place a double row of block back to back to create a 12" wide tread. Stagger the joints.

For a 12" tread, the rise should be about 6" for the next step.

Set the bottom of the next double row of blocks for the next step 2" below the top of the lower step. This interlocks the two steps and provides a 6" riser.

Build appropriate side walls, of block, as you go. Plaster the side walls.

Fill the cells with compacted dirt (or mortar/concrete) to within 2" - 3" from the top.

Pour a concrete tread surface at least 2" thick and extending down into the partially filled cells.

OR

If you want to use tile for the tread surface, fill the remaining portion of the cells with tile mortar and continue over the top of the blocks. Set tiles directly into this mortar.

You need at least a 30" landing at the top, 2"-4" lower than the door sill. Then your stairs below that.

[Edited on 9-27-2013 by RnR]

Stairs.jpg - 48kB
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[*] posted on 9-26-2013 at 06:12 PM


RnR = Rise and Run ???
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[*] posted on 9-26-2013 at 06:34 PM


I did an 8" rise with a 12" run out of block for the first three steps of my small stairs to my deck. We use it a few times each day and while I would not want to climb it 20 times a day, it's ok for mild use.
By the way, in the 1990s, the steepest stair allowed by the UBC was an 8" rise with a 9" run. KB homes in So Cal used to build them all the time.

follow what Vagman posted above and you can't go wrong. Fence bock is often 3" wide and you can stack those for a 6.5" rise
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volcano
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[*] posted on 9-26-2013 at 07:42 PM


thanks for all of the suggestions...very helpful
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[*] posted on 10-5-2013 at 10:54 AM


According to my carpenter book the perfect Rise 7" and Run is a 11"



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[*] posted on 10-5-2013 at 11:15 AM


I used to do stonework, mainly flagstone patios, both sand-beeded and concrete-bedded, and did many a step with concrete blocks. Here in my house i have them coming and going into the center part, only 3 steps in all (including the upper floor). My last house i built 3 sets of steps and porches, all 5 steps tall to (and including) the porches.

Here's my suggestion; DRY-STACK 'em, and over-lap the joints... 2nd tier overlapping 1st, 3rd over 2nd, etc. Cut the short blocks to fit with an old skill saw w/blade turned backwards (or buy a masonry blade, lotsa $$). Then fill the holes of the steps w/ concrete mix, doesn't need too much portland, 4-4-1 is plenty. Then the void between each row of steps fill in with dirt, and pack well with a block. Leave 2" free to cap w/concrete, and either finish the top w/ stone or just the cement.


It's a 7 1/2" rise and a 17" run, and i love it better than the typical 'code' 7x12. Gives a longer stride, more smooth ascention, and if you really wanna get fancy you can facia the concrete blocks either w/ stucco or 'quick-wall' product (a stucco w/fiberglass, can be tinted) that looks great.

The trick is, you have to inset the first set of blocks (when you figure out what your capping method will be) and make sure all the steps from ground-to-top are equal distances.... that's the basics for code, regardless if your steps are 3" or 15" talll, you don't want one or two more than 3/4" different than the rest, or you find yourself ''goof-stepping" on the off-one(s). You can figure your distance from top to bottom and discern whether 5" or 7" blocks will work best for the # of steps you need.

Also forgot to mention, it's good to pour a simple footer for the outer size of your project... if in soft soil, a little rebar in it doesn't hurt.

[Edited on 10-5-2013 by bajabuddha]




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volcano
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[*] posted on 10-6-2013 at 06:33 AM


thank you Buddha.....very helpful. No power,no generator, so no cutting, but do-able
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[*] posted on 10-6-2013 at 12:31 PM


or just get some sacks of ready mix concrete and place the bags where you want steps. water thoroughly and you have instant concrete steps.

[Edited on 10-6-2013 by woody with a view]




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