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Mula
Super Nomad
Posts: 1655
Registered: 8-16-2011
Location: San Nicolas y Lopez Mateos
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Mulege to San Javier by Mule Nov. 2013 - all 5 days posted and DONE!
This is the first night at Pie de la Cuesta - west and south out of Mulege.
We arrived just before dusk coming from Lopez Mateos and Loreto.
Juan Cunningham and Jose Gutierrez helped with trucks and animals.
Bajacalifornian's truck with 4 mules and tack.
Raymundo and Indio
Dan's camp truck
Dinner that night Argentinian Chorizo and garlic mashed potatoes!
[Edited on 12-4-2013 by Mula]
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BajaBlanca
Select Nomad
Posts: 13195
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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waiting for more !
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64739
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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To help see where Pie de la Cuesta (de Guajademi) is located... This was a part of El Camino Real between La Purisima and Mulege missions.
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Mula
Super Nomad
Posts: 1655
Registered: 8-16-2011
Location: San Nicolas y Lopez Mateos
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Day 1 on the Trail. Nov. 27.
Pie de la Cuesta to Agua Grande.
Up early and rarin' to go:
Starting off to find the old supply trail. Much of the lower part was washed out since last used, so took a little while to get on the right track
and Raymundo had not been up the face in 20 years.
Bajacalifornian and Indo. Up and up the face of the mountain. We came from that valley below.
Lunch time: 2 hours up the face of the mountain, 1/2 hour crossing Jose Gutierrez's ranch, 1 1/2 hour up the next mountain past Casas Viejas.
The plan was to ride for 4 hours, rest for 2 hours and ride another 4 hours.
In the afternoon down Nombre Maria, past Rancho Nuevo into Arroyo El Chile - all in the San Jose de Guajademi Ejido.
Arriving at Agua Grande just before dusk.
Camp in the rocks.
Raymundo and Dan made Lopez Lobster with garlic butter for our Thanksgiving dinner.
[Edited on 12-3-2013 by Mula]
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RnR
Senior Nomad
Posts: 836
Registered: 5-1-2010
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You are killin' me.....
Lobster in the backcountry???
WHAT A TRIP!!!!!
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motoged
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6481
Registered: 7-31-2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Mood: Gettin' Better
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Mula,
Way Cool !!!!
More, please... 
(I know it's coming...)
Don't believe everything you think....
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msteve1014
Senior Nomad
Posts: 947
Registered: 12-2-2006
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very nice, glad to see you had such a good time.
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Mula
Super Nomad
Posts: 1655
Registered: 8-16-2011
Location: San Nicolas y Lopez Mateos
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Day 2: Agua Grande to La Sandia.
Sun rising and it's cold. 8C or 47F.
BajaC and Indio ready to roll.
Raymundo on Celic trailing Alazan who had tender feet.
Down through Agua Puerca and San Jose de Gaujademi into Paso Hondo for lunch and showers (cold water) at Gracia and Javier's place. Dropped Alazan
there because of his sore feet and will pick him up this Thursday for some rehab and curing time at Juan Cunningham's ranch outside of Loreto.
On past Octavio's El Galmar Ranch, La Purismo Vieja and on up to the plateau La Sandia to camp for the night.
Spanish Rice for dinner and are close to the Pacific humidity and brisas. Candy - Dan's Chihuahua - is cold!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64739
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Epic!
Crosby's Camino Real Route Map of 1977:
[Edited on 12-3-2013 by David K]
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Mula
Super Nomad
Posts: 1655
Registered: 8-16-2011
Location: San Nicolas y Lopez Mateos
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Day 3: La Sandia to Yerbabuena.
Up early and off.
The flora and fauna is incredible. Tiny flowers on every plant - all colors possible. Wild yams, calabasa, jicima.
And the Palo Adan trees are just golden.
Raymundo is busy tracking and digging rural foods.
Baja C and Indio still hanging in there. Another GRAND day!
Arriving mid morning into San Isidro. Dan is sent for supplies. Tortillas, ice and water. Local police thought he was looking for gold. Were
disappointed to find he has a Mexican Driver's license and lives in Lopez.
And we keep on trucking up the cuesta to a water hole for lunch break.
We made hot lunches every day. Empanadas de queso, frijol dulce or carne, quesadillas . . . this day we had Hillshire Smoked Sausage link in
tortillas.
Candy loves the 2 hour rest stops in the middle of the day. She's the guard dog.
It was at this spot an SUV with 3 guys coming from San Juanico stopped and asked us where the nearest gas station was. That gave us a good laugh -
especially since they were heading to Guerrero Negro.
Next we stopped just north of Yerbabuena at Raymundo's wife's brother's goat ranch for coffee. Jose Manuel and Bertha make goat cheese by the gallons
and I forgot to take photos of it. Damn!
Guess Dan got tired of driving and let Linda scout and drive this afternoon. La Linda is now 5 1/2 months old and 60 lbs.
They are looking for out next camp site for the night at the base of Yerbabuena.
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Mulegena
Super Nomad
Posts: 2412
Registered: 11-7-2006
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You guys have the BEST times!
Love your lifestyle!
Thanks for sharing.
You made great time from Mulege to La Purisima, btw; it's a long, high and hard trek up that canyon out of Mulege and across those mountains.
Your buddy Juan Cunningham... related to my husband via his mom's grandfather of La Purisima, I believe.
[Edited on 12-3-2013 by Mulegena]
"Raise your words, not your voice. It's rain that grows flowers, not thunder." ~Rumi
"It's the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." ~ Aristotle
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Mula
Super Nomad
Posts: 1655
Registered: 8-16-2011
Location: San Nicolas y Lopez Mateos
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So now we are up to the start of Day 4 from Yerbabuena to El Horno.
The sun rise was spectacular:
Camping in the weeds:
Bad road section. The alfalfa fell out. Good thing we had Raymundo!!!!
San Jose de Comondu Cemetary.
Arriving early morning in San Jose de Comondu.
Noche Buena tree ready for Christmas.
We had mostly downhill into Comondu, but had a long hard trek up the mountain after Comondu, so decided to rest the mules until 1:30 then head up. So
we were able to spend the time in Chamu's huerta where he grows sugar cane and makes panoche sugar cane candy. Also had bucket baths with the hot
water from the tea kettle added to the huerta water. Wonderful!
The copper cooking pot for the panoche.
Tea Kettle hot water system.
Firewood for the panoche kettle.
Kettle oven.
Camp fire at El Horno. Best fire of the trip!
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msteve1014
Senior Nomad
Posts: 947
Registered: 12-2-2006
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That really does look like a lot of fun, but my butt is sore. Are we almost there yet.
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motoged
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6481
Registered: 7-31-2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Mood: Gettin' Better
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Mula,
I am really appreciating your report. You are a hardy crew
Your backup is pretty impressive:
A beer-swilling chihuahua:
And a hound that can drive:
It doesn't get much better than that 
A question: You mention that the grade of the roads out of Mulege and Comondu are relatively steep heading south.....I am planning to ride this route
in January by moto and am thinking of riding it from San Javier north to Mulege as going down a steep grade is preferred to going up for
me....comment?
Gracias
Don't believe everything you think....
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Mula
Super Nomad
Posts: 1655
Registered: 8-16-2011
Location: San Nicolas y Lopez Mateos
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Neither way is an easier ride, but it would be easier going north and down than south and up.
One more day to go and then the photos of the San Javier Festival - which is a whole 'nother matter.
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monoloco
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6667
Registered: 7-13-2009
Location: Pescadero BCS
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Great report! Looks like beautiful country up there.
"The future ain't what it used to be"
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Mula
Super Nomad
Posts: 1655
Registered: 8-16-2011
Location: San Nicolas y Lopez Mateos
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O.K., this is the last day: Day 5. Up and on the trail at 7am.
This is El Horno. It is huge. It was used to heat the white rocks - Cal - of the area. When the rocks were red hot, water was poured on them and
they became Cal powder - used to build the missions.
Side of el Horno with a tree growing out of the top side.
This is the entrance to El Horno.
Chomping at the bit. On the trail at 7am. Pass first Las Aminas and Palo Chino.
Monte Alto - only 1 more cuesta.
Candy, ever the guard dog. Lunch stop at Santa Isabel. . .
Bought 2 bottle of local Misioneros Wine at Santa Isabel. 150 pesos a bottle. Yum!
KM 31. San Javier is KM32.
The entrance to San Javier. 200 Kilometers in 5 days and 35 hours in the saddle! The Mules were GREAT. Tired and are now off to Juan Cunningham's
ranch for a well deserved rest!
The end of the road.
Last night's camp. Juan cunninghamd met us with the truck for the mules and fresh alfalfa.
Mision San Javier - the END!
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BornFisher
Super Nomad
Posts: 2107
Registered: 1-11-2005
Location: K-38 Santa Martha/Encinitas
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This is really special, thanks. I was feeling sorry for Pancho Villa`s (Jeff) mule. But I see Jeff brought along a nice tent for Indio!! 
Such a great trip-- my respect to all of you!!
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Paulina
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3810
Registered: 8-31-2002
Location: BCN
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I absolutely LOVED your report. Thank you very much for taking the time to post it. I want to do this some day. I'm not kidding.
P>*)))>{
\"Well behaved women rarely make history.\" Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
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TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Excellent, thanks.
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