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BajaBlanca
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Posts: 13195
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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COWBOY COUNTRY
Really, the words do not exist to describe our trek to the mountains past San Ignacio to visit over 10 ranchos. Our destination was Rancho Las Tunas,
where one of the students, Alexis, being sponsored to go to college, lives. It is one of the last ranchos, extremely remote. Getting there took us 7
rugged hours but was worth every single second.
We were going to be guided by Guero, a politician, and his wife Tuly. They were dropping off much needed provisions the gvt. was sending to these
outback cowboys and their brave wives. Since we were to meet in San Ignacio, we had breakfast at Rice and Beans since we were on American time and
they were, obviously, on Mexican time!
PICS FROM RICE AND BEANS IN SAN IGNACIO:
ALL MADE OUT OF TIRE. QUITE COMFORTABLE TO SIT ON. BRILLIANT IDEA:
CLAY OVEN AT THE END OF THE OUTSIDE EATING AREA:
ON THE WAY TO THE RANCHOS, REX WENT WITH US:
SAW THIS LOVELY PLANT AND PLANNED TO GRAB ONE ON THE WAY BACK (THIS IS NOT BIOSPHERE) UNTIL I WAS TOLD IT IS LIKE POISON IVY.....NO THANX:
Here are some of the pics from the ranches. They all produce cow milk cheeses that are like cream cheese and melt in your mouth. Some make leather
goods by hand. Some sell goats and cattle. Some have vegetable gardens ( in my opinion, they really should expand this since they are ridiculously
far from any store) and all have pretty flower gardens, sometimes with an area set aside for medicinal plants.
FRUIT TREES AND THEY GAVE US A BABY LEMON TREE:
SHOULD BE A MOVIE BUT THIS IS REAL:
MUCHOS GOATS AND THEIR BELLS CLANG ALL NIGHT:
HOMEMADE TORTILLAS, THE OLD FASHIONED WAY. I TOOK A VIDEO AND WILL POST LATER:
ONE OF THE RANCHES HAD GRAPES THAT SHE COVERS SO THE BIRDS DON'T EAT THEM. THEY WERE SWEET.
SHE WAS BUSY COOKING UP BIRRIA AND WASHING UP, THIS WAS A PRETTY IMPRESSIVE RANCHO:
THEY HAD BOUGHT MINIATURE COWBOY BOOTS FOR ONE OF THE LITTLE ONES!
THESE ARE THE INDIAN ARTIFACTS FOUND IN THIS AREA OF BAJA
SOME PICS ALONG THE CAMINO (WAY):
THIS TRUCK CAUGHT FIRE NOT TOO LONG AGO AND ALL THE PROVISIONS THE GUYS WERE BRINGING BACK BURNED.....NO ONE WAS HURT....I DID SAY THIS WAS A RUGGED
ROAD:
COPILOTS GET TO CLOSE THEIR. EYES WHILE THEY PRAY:
ABOUT HALFWAY OR THREE AND A HALF HOURS INTO THE TRIP, AT THE TIPPITY TOP OF THE HIGHEST POINT, IF YOU HAVE A SPECIAL GUIDE TO TAKE YOU, YOU PARK AND
WALK TWENTY STEPS AND THERE IS A PETROGLYPH:
Tuly and I planned a trip to EL POTRERO. This is a mountain and at the top, some 1200 meters high, the French workers from El Boleo built huge corrals
and stone water pilas as well as installed a huge pump for them, all this intended for supplying water to the cattle that they were shipping to
France along with the copper. Martin, Alexis's dad and our guide up the mountain (the land belongs to his family) was a history book as he told
stories of his grandpa taking the cattle across the mountain into Santa Rosalia. The trail we took, on the opposite side, is the original trail the
French created. They hauled all the equipment and stones on burros, very narrow trails, it was a very difficult hike and if Martin hadn't carried my
backpack with water, Ipad and snacks, there is no way I would have made it!
The hike took over two hours and the trail is so steep it zigzags. The experience was exhausting and exhilarating to think that I was literally
walking on history. My 30 minutes of walking the dunes every morning really paid off!
HOW DID THIS GORDITA EVER MAKE IT.??
A STONE CANAL BUILT BY THE FRENCH TO DIRECT THE WATER:
THE PUMP TO SEND WATER EVEN FURTHER UP THE MOUNTAIN:
WATER FROM THE ENORMOUS PILA EL BOLEO BUILT:
THE SPRING WHERE IT ALL BEGINS, THE WATER WAS DELICIOUS,
A CORRAL WALL, NOTICE THE PALMS IN THE BACK, SOME BIRD DROPPED SEEDLINGS AND VOILA, HERE ARE PALM TREES WAY OUT OF PLACE:
OVERSIZED CACTUS - CAN'T EVEN GUESS HOW OLD IT MIGHT BE:
THE TENNIES TELL THE STRUGGLE,
In the afternoon, everyone sat around a San Ignacio wooden table and chairs, talked and sang while Martin and one of Alexis's other brothers played
the guitar. Alex's mom, Lupita, made the most delicious meals and I was too busy eating to take pics......chicken and macaroni salad and beans - all
on a wood burning stove.
MARTIN ON THE GUITAR
THE WHOLE FAMILY AND SOME FRIENDS. ALEXIS IS THE TALLEST KID IN THE BACK AND TO THE LEFT IS JAVIER, WHO WILL JOIN THE UNIVERSITY PROGRAM IN 2 YEARS:
Like I said, my words don't quite describe the love these families have for each other, the silence at night ( I had a hard time sleeping because
there were no waves crashing), the simplicity mixed in with the complexity of making a livelihood. I thought of the Wild West - this life they lead
is not so far removed and I take my hat off to them. I also understand now, WHY, so many La Bocananas, Abreojans, Asuncionans are passionate about
"Mi Rancho". Seven hours again on our return trip, rugged, very rugged terrain with danger lurking on mountainsides and huge rocks in the arroyos
with seemed interminable....it has taken me three days to recuperate!
THIS PICTURE SUMS UP THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE! HOPE YOU ENJOY THE RIDE AS MUCH AS WE DID:
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bufeo
Senior Nomad
Posts: 793
Registered: 11-16-2003
Location: Santa Fe New Mexico
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Great report, BB. Nice photos and comments. Thanks for posting. That's spectacular country.
Allen R.
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bajacalifornian
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Posts: 1117
Registered: 9-4-2010
Location: Loreto/Lopez Mateos/Rosarito
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Dang Blanca. This is the Baja I dwell & love. Thank you for sharing!
American by birth, Mexican by choice.
Signature addendum: Danish physicist — Niels Bohr — who said, “The opposite of one profound truth may very well be another profound truth.
Jeff Petersen
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bajajudy
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6886
Registered: 10-4-2004
Location: San Jose del Cabo,BCS
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Oh my, that looks like a once in a lifetime trip.
What a treat"
Girlfriend, you need a Baja plant field guide before you head out again. That plant is a mala mujer and is worse than poison ivy ever thought about
being.
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BajaBlanca
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Posts: 13195
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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I have the book! Never thought to take it.
I came so close to touching that beaut od a devil plant.......it is so very pretty. MALA MUJER INDEED!
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J.P.
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Posts: 1673
Registered: 7-8-2010
Location: Punta Banda
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Mood: Easy Does It
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That's a great trip report on the way real Baja People Live
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BAJA.DESERT.RAT
Senior Nomad
Posts: 980
Registered: 11-5-2009
Location: BAJA SUR
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Hola BAJABLANCA,
" COWBOY COUNTRY " indeed !
what a wonderful journey, thank you for taking us along.
a very simple and difficult life, kind of wonder how they made it in such difficult but beautiful terrain.
thank you again,
BIEN SALUD, DA RAT
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ehall
Super Nomad
Posts: 1906
Registered: 3-29-2014
Location: Buckeye, Az
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Mood: It's 5 o'clock somewhere
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wow, great pictures. Looks like a fun trip
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shari
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Posts: 13043
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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lucky you for getting to experience a part of baja that few people see. I suppose you have seen the film Corazon Vaquero...if not...you will love it.
It is a must see for baja ranch lovers and is a detailed account of the central baja ranch life.
Right now there are ranch folks here for the fiestas for the rodeos and horse races and it is so beautiful to see how they interact with such love and
respect....see you tomorrow Blanca!
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durrelllrobert
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7393
Registered: 11-22-2007
Location: Punta Banda BC
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Mood: thriving in Baja
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| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaBlanca
I have the book! Never thought to take it.
I came so close to touching that beaut od a devil plant.......it is so very pretty. MALA MUJER INDEED! |
..and delicious when cooked properly. 
Bob Durrell
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DianaT
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Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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Great pictures and such an enjoyable and sincere trip report. 
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StuckSucks
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Posts: 2318
Registered: 10-17-2013
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QUALITY photos and narration, thanks for sharing. In NYC right now - San Ignacio sounds like a better option.
[Edited on 8-16-2014 by StuckSucks]
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elgatoloco
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4332
Registered: 11-19-2002
Location: Yes
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Wow! 
MAGA
Making Attorneys Get Attorneys
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Bajaboy
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Posts: 4375
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Bahia Asuncion, BCS, Mexico
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Really nice. It's always hard to put those magical moments into words. Thanks!
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Ateo
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Posts: 5896
Registered: 7-18-2011
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Totally rad and awesome. That guitar has the coolest outline I've ever seen. Wow...............I'm taking out my Baja Almanac to scan the area.
Gracias Blanca.
[Edited on 8-16-2014 by Ateo]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64739
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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That is a great example of Backroad Baja! Thank you!!
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nbacc
Senior Nomad
Posts: 770
Registered: 12-27-2008
Location: Northern California
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Thanks for sharing!!! Wonderful Nancy
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BajaBlanca
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Posts: 13195
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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david - could you please put up a map? thanks.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64739
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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MAPS
| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaBlanca
david - could you please put up a map? thanks. |
The general area on the AAA map... note the mission of Guadalupe location. The rancho visited by Blanca and Les is on the west side of the Sierra San
Pedro, from the mission.
On the 2003 Baja Almanac, close up showing the ranches west from Mission Guadalupe...
On the 2009 Baja Almanac, look in the lower left corner for ranchos Las Tunas and San Pedro...
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TMW
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Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Excellent, thanks.
Did you follow a route out of El Patrocino? If so you may have taken the same route the Rip to Cabo riders used. Did you pass ranchos El Datil, San
Marcos and San Pedro as shown in the latest Baja Almanac on page 14? I'm curious if the road east of Las Tunas is good to Mulege.
[Edited on 8-16-2014 by TW]
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