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pandesol
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Trip Planning - San Diego to Guerrero Negro and back
Hola Nomads. First, a big thanks to all and the site admin for all of the great info here. I have been reading through hundreds of posts, Q&As
and trip reports here in preparation for an upcoming trip to Guerrero Negro to see the grey whales. I would appreciate if you could assist me with an
itinerary check and answer a few questions about my trip.
A little about us first, we are a family of four (me, wife, two boy ages 12 & 14), will potentially be bringing along our Golden Retriever…which
would be a first for me to travel in Baja with a dog. We have routinely been going to Baja to eat, visit and stay…mostly in the north of Baja
Norte, TJ to Ensenada and various places in between. I have been to San Quintin as a teen way back in the 80s when my Dad used to take us on Baja
adventures but, I don't really recall the town and I haven't been back since. We will be traveling in a '98 Dodge Durango V8 with 4x4. Though we
plan on staying at a few hotels we will be packing a tent and camping supplies for any impromptu possibilities (Catavina and a few of the beaches near
Mulege might trigger this option). My partial itinerary is as follows (currently struggling with my return trip plans):
3/21 - Drive San Diego to San Quintin (considering a stay at Don Eddie's, Jardines or Molino Viejo)
3/22 - Drive San Quintin to Guerrero Negro (considering a stay at Malarrimo Motel)
3/23 - Whale Tour then Drive to Mulege (considering a 2 day stay at Hotel Serenidad)
3/24 - Explore beaches of Bahia Concepcion
3/25 - Explore petroglyphs of San Borjitas then drive to San Ignancio (considering a stay at San Ignacio Springs)
3/26 - Drive San Ignacio to Bahia de los Angeles
3/27 - Drive Bahia de los Angeles to San Felipe
3/28 - Drive San Felipe to San Diego
Are the times between 3/21 - 3/25 reasonably doable? My pain points are, I really don't want to pass Catavina. I am even considering driving
straight through to Catavina and skip San Quintin to camp under the stars and see the petroglyphs there. If we choose to, is it reasonable to think
we can arrive in Catavina in time to set up a camp and tour the petroglyphs there? Also leaving the next morning, could we arrive in Guerrero Negro
on 3/22 to do a late afternoon whale tour?
I am also really struggling with my return itinerary trying to make it fun while also knocking down the miles to get back home. Generally, I'm
interested in returning north via MEX 5 through San Felipe and then MEX 3 through Ojos Negros and Valle de Guadalupe to the Tecate US Border entry. I
can stretch my trip to 3/29 if needed but I would like to get back 3/28 to shake the Baja dust out of my ears so I'm ready for the dreaded work week
ahead. I would appreciate any insight you can lend to improve my plan.
A few questions I have are:
1) Are there any issues with bringing a full 15lb. Propane tank across the border? Do I need to declare it? We intend to use it for camp cooking and
portable fire pit.
2) What are my options for securing my dog while whale watching? He's a 70 lb, intact, Golden Retriever. We will be packing his crate to use while
hoteling and camping.
3) I have not made any reservations yet. Sounds crazy but reservations sort of make me feel like I'm committed to get somewhere on schedule and on
time. Plus, I have read report after report of people saying their reservations were forgotten or turned out to not exist. Should I just roll the
dice?
4) Are there any medical clinics or hospitals in any of the towns listed? My youngest son is allergic to bees. We will have Epi-Pens but I want to
make sure I can get to actual medical services if needed too.
5) I recall reading that there is a race event of some sort in San Felipe in March. Does anyone know what this event is and when? I'd like to avoid
competing for hotel rooms if possible and may choose to skip San Felipe altogether if needed. I'm generally not interested in crazy chaotic crowded
events. I'm good with local Ejido events though.
6) I thought I read that one could drive themselves to a ranch near the San Borjitas petroglyphs, hire a guide there and hike/walk in to view them.
True? I'm just thinking if I am going back to San Ignacio anyway, I could drive to the ranch, view the petroglyphs and then continue on from there to
San Ignacio rather than finding Salvador in Mulege. Thoughts?
Apologies for the long winded first post. Thanks in advance for any info you can lend. I'm still researching and reading. I'm really quite laid
back and not as urgent as this post might sound. Getting up close and personal with the whales is what started the planning of this whole trip.
That's really the only important thing for us to execute on. The rest is "hope to make it happen" stuff…if not this trip, then the next.
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Bajazly
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Location: Goodbye Cali and Hello San Felipe
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Your San Felipe dates are right in the middle of the SF 250 where all of the hotels are likely booked.
In your time frame I would also make GN my furthest point south. Trying to get all the way to and from Bahia Concepcion is going to be a slog and not
a huge bang for the buck. From GN you could head out thru El Arco and in to Bahia de Los Angeles the dirt route. Camp at San Rafael for a day and then
into Bahia and spend a day or two there.
San Felipe in only 200 miles north and there are a few spots to camp before you get to SF. The race is on Saturday so it would be possible to even
camp the night before and watch the race come by the next day and bail out on Sunday morning.
[Edited on 3-3-2020 by Bajazly]
Believing is religion - Knowing is science
Harald Pietschmann
"Get off the beaten path and memories, friends and new techniques are developed"
Bajazly, August 2019
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Lee
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Catavina is no problem from SD.
Crate your dog, park in the shade with windows cracked, while whale watching.
My one experience at Laguna Ojo de Liebre: morning tour was perfect though there were too many people in the boat. Afternoon was blown out and
choppy and sucked big time. Returning through the chop was brutal. Won't be doing a p.m. crowded boat again.
Stay at Terrasal instead of Malarrimo in GN. Eat at Mario's.
Unlikely you'll get in to Jardines on a weekend two weeks out.
GN to SF is 250 miles.
Have fun.
US Marines: providing enemies of America an opportunity to die for their country since 1775.
What I say before any important decision.
F*ck it.
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David K
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The Score San Felipe 250 off-road race is March 28 and the town will be near-impossible to drive through without delays. This includes the day before
and the day after the race. No hotels will have vacancies, probably.
A 1-week trip with a full day devoted to the whales and 2 days down and 2 days back from Guerrero Negro leaves you just 2 days for something else.
Sure, you can get to or from Guerrero Negro in one long day, but with a family, that is no way to do a road trip. Highway 1 south of San Quintin is
only 19 feet wide and on an elevated levee much of the ways... Very dangerous and not easy to pull off. Please don't push it.
What you want to see and do is best done in a 10-14 day trip. The kids and dog will LOVE Bahia Concepcion, in the summer... so come back then!
See many places of interest, including the 200-300+ year old Spanish missions, on my site for planning ides: www.vivabaja.com
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mtgoat666
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Catavina is a good stop for first night. But leave San Diego by 630 am so you get there with time to Explore and find somewhere to camp.
29°47'36"N 114°47'11"W is the general area in Catavina to look for camping,... explore the side roads (tracks), just navigate toward the tallest
rocks, camp where you like...
Go to San Ignacio for whales. The town alone is worth the visit. The whale camps at San Ignacio have a good vibe. The whale camps at GN have a more
industrial vibe.
San Ignacio is a half day drive from Catavina.
San Felipe is the arm pit of baja. skip it. It’s yucky, just mud beaches, Crappy bars, and desert rat gray hairs on atvs. It’s an easy 1 day
drive from Bahia de Los Angeles to San Diego.
Do a side trip to Sierra de San Fransisco, it’s the place to see rock paintings. The drive up to the top of the sierras is scenery that can’t be
beat.
If weather good, go up to San Pedro martir,... though probably too cold in March....
Woke!
“...ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country.” “My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America
will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man.”
Prefered gender pronoun: the royal we
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mtgoat666
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110 degrees and 90% humidity. No one enjoys that area in summer. Are you on drugs?
Woke!
“...ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country.” “My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America
will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man.”
Prefered gender pronoun: the royal we
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David K
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Climate lies, goat.
I have camped there many times in July also in August and September. Ask Bob & Susan, they live there full time. Days are in the 90°s. The sea
water is luxuriously warm. It is humid at night and that is tough for some but the wonderful days free of crowds make up for that.
Mexican natives have lived in Mulegé since the early 1800s... are they super human living without AC?
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pandesol
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Thanks for the info provided so far. I think we will definitely skip San Felipe and maybe that route back to the US altogether. San Pedro Martir
sounds like a possibility, if not this trip another trip in the near future as we routinely go to Ensenada anyway...never knew the place existed.
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JZ
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Goat has given you pretty solid advice. What is says about San Felipe is spot on.
BoLA is a fun place. Since your time is limited, spend more time there instead of going to Concepcion.
Get on a boat and see all the islands. You can take the dog.
[Edited on 3-4-2020 by JZ]
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BajaBlanca
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Don't wait for summer! Go see the whales!
The Sea of Cortez is brutal in the summer...even with the water you feel hot all the time.
Every town and bigger village has a medical clinic, they are small, usually free and can handle basic first aid but not much more. Guerrero Negro has
a hospital (I have never been there).
Terra Sal hotel is newer. As you turn in towards main street in G Negro, it is on your right.
I don't think there is a problem at all bringing the propane tank, they are in all RVs and there are so many in Baja.
From G Negro, you can do one more morning of whales or the drive to San Ignacio is 45 minutes. I think you and the kids will enjoy the town - there
is an ice cream shop on the main square, there is a huge mission church built by the Indians, there is a free and VERY interesting museum a block
away from the main square (ask anyone for the Juanita moo zay oh (museum in Spanish). Her garden with the natural spring running thru it is
absolutely awesome. One of the best restaurants is LA HUERTA. The yurts are so fun for kids since some of them are right on the river.
Ask away if you have more questions!!
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JZ
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Disagree majorly with this. SoC in the summer is fantastic.
But you have be out on the water to enjoy it. We have spent 20 summer boating all over the SoC. Not much better in this world.
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David K
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Do people complain about the heat and humidity on their trips to Tahiti or Hawaii? Who wants to go to a cold place with cold water on a vacation?
JZ, as I do, knows the healthy warmth of the Cortez is wonderful in the summer. In addition, no fighting for a camping spot as half of Canada won't be
there, as they are in the winter.
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pandesol
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Thanks JZ and BajaBlanca for the added encouragement. We are definitely a go and not waiting until summer. I have been to Puertocitos for a fishing
trip during the summer and all I could think during that trip was "I'm glad I didn't bring my kids." I think it was 112 f that trip so, experiencing
those temps with 4 people and a dog crammed in a SUV doesn't appeal to me.
JZ, any stand out recommendations for BoLA?
BajaBlanca, I think we will be making a reservation at San Ignacio Springs for exactly the reasons you describe.
San Borjitas Cave paintings, do I really need to drive all the way to Mulege to get a guide? I read somewhere that I could drive to the ranch nearby
the trail head and get a permit and guide onsite. Does anyone have the details on directions for that option?
Thanks again all, keep the tips coming please.
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David K
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Yes, I detailed San Borjitas in my May 2019 trip report here and in my Baja Bound article, too.
San Borjitas road is not far from Mulegé, so that is a natural place to spend the night... The road is at Palo Verde, north of the Punta Chivato
road.
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JZ
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BoLA recs:
Hotel
Costa del Sol is the best hotel. Right on the main drag. Good restaurant. You'll meet interesting ppl there.
Boating
See the map below. Take a panga out for the day and see the islands. It will maybe be $150, depending on who you go with.
The island with the pin "cool bay" is really interesting. Excellent bay. You can hike to the top of the island and see the whole area. The pin
labeled SS Minnow near Rincon is one of the prettiest white sand beaches you will see. That time of year I believe they have whale sharks out near
Rincon.
Puerto Don Juan is pretty cool as well.
[Edited on 3-4-2020 by JZ]
[Edited on 3-5-2020 by BajaNomad]
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wilderone
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Since you'll have camping gear, I think camping at the whale watch launch area campground would be more fun than a hotel in GN. Get a boat the next
morning. It's totally hit or miss on weather and how many are in the boat. You can see how many are on the list before you, watch them fill the
boats, tell them you'll wait for the next boat, etc. If there is wind, it would be in the afternoon. Yes, it would be best to get a guide in Mulege
for San Borjitos. There are other pictographs in the Sierra San Francisco - a couple sites you don't need a permit for, but check in at the small
village of San Francisco. Otherwise, I think you have a fine itinerary, though a bit rushed. IMO San Felipe is fine for an afternoon arrival, some
shopping, nice restaurant meal, mariachis. Then cross the border the next day. A long drive across Mex. 3 to cross in Tecate though. If you run out
of time, just return via Mex. 1, go the Guadalupe Valley route, stop at a couple of wineries, and cross in Tecate.
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pandesol
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Dodge Durango V8 4x4 with brand new BFG ATs. I have an airdown tool, portable compressor and 8 gallon spare fuel tank so about 350 mile range. SUV
is not lifted though so just average SUV ground clearance.
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pandesol
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Quote: Originally posted by David K  | Yes, I detailed San Borjitas in my May 2019 trip report here and in my Baja Bound article, too.
San Borjitas road is not far from Mulegé, so that is a natural place to spend the night... The road is at Palo Verde, north of the Punta Chivato
road. |
David, from your article "The fairly good dirt road to the cave leaves Highway 1 at Km. 156, south of Santa Rosalia" Is this a really apparent turn
off that would easily recognize driving down the road? Any chance you have map coordinates? I will have GPS navigation and GAIA GPS app onboard.
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David K
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The guide and permits are available at the ranch the San Borjitas road ends at.
The guide in Mulegé (a nice guy named Salvador) said it would take hours to get there and made it sound like quite an ordeal. We had other sites to
see first, so we just went there late in the day to see if it was possible to arrange ourselves, and it went great.
The video of this is Episode 2, Trail of Missions Recon 2019. Listed on www.vivabaja.com near the top with the other 4 episodes. We actually went to San Borjitas between Mission Guadalupe and Mission Mulegé which are
on Episode 1. The scene of us looking at the map on the hood was at the San Borjitas road on Hwy. 1. I say it looks like 20 miles (the distance to San
Borjitas).
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David K
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| Quote: Originally posted by pandesol | | Quote: Originally posted by David K | Yes, I detailed San Borjitas in my May 2019 trip report here and in my Baja Bound article, too.
San Borjitas road is not far from Mulegé, so that is a natural place to spend the night... The road is at Palo Verde, north of the Punta Chivato
road. |
David, from your article "The fairly good dirt road to the cave leaves Highway 1 at Km. 156, south of Santa Rosalia" Is this a really apparent turn
off that would easily recognize driving down the road? Any chance you have map coordinates? I will have GPS navigation and GAIA GPS app onboard.
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It is signed for San Borjitas and at that kilometer markers. The village of Palo Verde is immediately south of the road. It is impossible to miss.
When I get on my PC, I can use Google Earth to get you a waypoint, but you can find it easily.
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