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BigBearRider
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Registered: 4-30-2015
Location: Big Bear, Punta Chivato, and Cabo
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Too late to plant trees and bushes now?
A couple Oleander trees fell over at my house in Punta Chivato. I’d like to replace them. Maybe also plant some new trees, Orange, mango, palms?
Some flowers? Is it a little late in the year to do so? What do the horticulturalists say?
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David K
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Posts: 64858
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Make sure the drip system doesn't let them dry out!
As an overall point... planting in harsh/ extreme weather is not recommended. Just after the last chance of frost in early Spring is preferred. I
doubt if Punta Chivato ever has frost, so as much time to get established before blistering summer heat.
On the other side of summer, plant once the highest temps are done for that year. That will be the longest period of growth before the next 90°
weather hits.
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pacificobob
Super Nomad
Posts: 2308
Registered: 4-23-2006
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plant when you like. it's just a matter of managing their new environment. water, light,temperature and wind exposure.
i have 4 acres planted with specimens planted throughout the year. if i offer any council.....don't underestimate how strong summer sun is..
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BajaBlanca
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Location: La Bocana, BCS
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We just replanted some palms and they are already sprouting new shoots!
Our oleander is leaning towards one side, the winds have been brutal this month.
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JC43
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Registered: 6-21-2014
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Planting at this time is not a problem. Perfectly o.k.! And YES the winds were brutally this year. Knocking over our oleanders as well. More
important four of our Ficus Benjamini are crippling. They are about ten years old. Last year more than 6 feet high having perfect dark green leaves
they are now turning to cripples. Leaves falling off being pale green. Dying branches. They are getting water every second , third day. More water
dosn`t help at all. Normally in summer they are getting rid of some leaves when not supported w/ enough water. That`s normal. Anybody knows
something about that??
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mtgoat666
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For fruit (and most) trees, Mulch to keep soil cool.
Water deeply after top 2 inches of soil dry out, repeat. Don’t water when top 2 inches are still moist.
Sometimes when planting new trees in summer I put shade pop up over new tree for a few weeks if the weather is brutally hot.
Avoid drip. It just makes little root balls, better to flood a basin of same diameter as drip line of tree.
If on hill, use low rate sprinkler heads. All my fruit trees are on slopes, and I used hunter mp heads that have ~0.5 inch per hour rate, easy to
water deeply on slope w/o runoff.
Woke!
“...ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country.” “My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America
will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man.”
Prefered gender pronoun: the royal we
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David K
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Drip is a highly efficient, deep watering system, and when installed correctly (enough emitters for the plant size or use emitterline) and operated
for the longer periods required, you don't get "little root balls"... That happens when the installation is done on the cheap, and operated as if it
was a regular sprinkler (10 minutes) verses 1-2 hours that a drip system requires.
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Bob and Susan
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Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
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i've planted a couple here
an oleander bush would be ok if watered
ficus trees love the heat but you have to water them
the fruit trees will burn and die no matter what you do
if you are going to be there all summer you could try anything but
if you leave its too late in the season...
it never seems to work out with having people water for you in
the summer...dont count on that
i have all electric automatic sprinklers that come on with the timer
this is the ONLY way to go
the sun is BRUTAL in the summer months on new plantings
OCT is the BEST month to plant
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pacificobob
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Quote: Originally posted by JC43  | | Planting at this time is not a problem. Perfectly o.k.! And YES the winds were brutally this year. Knocking over our oleanders as well. More
important four of our Ficus Benjamini are crippling. They are about ten years old. Last year more than 6 feet high having perfect dark green leaves
they are now turning to cripples. Leaves falling off being pale green. Dying branches. They are getting water every second , third day. More water
dosn`t help at all. Normally in summer they are getting rid of some leaves when not supported w/ enough water. That`s normal. Anybody knows
something about that?? |
might be soil fungus. i have had similar symptoms on ficus and neem trees.
i treat the soil with a fungicide and buckhorn the affected trees. also apply the fungicide to adjacent trees. its a good idea to treat your shoes and
tools with a bleach solution. if you keep it moist, it may survive.
if you can toss some malla sombra over it sick tree it will aid in recovery. good luck
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pacificobob
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| Quote: Originally posted by Bob and Susan | i've planted a couple here
an oleander bush would be ok if watered
ficus trees love the heat but you have to water them
the fruit trees will burn and die no matter what you do
if you are going to be there all summer you could try anything but
if you leave its too late in the season...
it never seems to work out with having people water for you in
the summer...dont count
i have all electric automatic sprinklers that come on with the timer
this is the ONLY way to go
the sun is BRUTAL in the summer months on new plantings
OCT is the BEST month to plant |
baja California has many micro climates. we live in the todos,pescadero area. a more mild climate than the SOC.
i will be putting a couple citrus and avocados this week. they will do as well as the other 70 fruit trees planted in all months. most people don't
"get" what plants require. transplanting is traumatic in the best of conditions...i agree, nobody will irrigate like the owner will.
[Edited on 4-16-2021 by pacificobob]
[Edited on 4-16-2021 by pacificobob]
[Edited on 4-16-2021 by pacificobob]
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JC43
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Posts: 498
Registered: 6-21-2014
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might be soil fungus. i have had similar symptoms on ficus and neem trees.
i treat the soil with a fungicide and buckhorn the affected trees. also apply the fungicide to adjacent trees. its a good idea to treat your shoes and
tools with a bleach solution. if you keep it moist, it may survive.
if you can toss some malla sombra over it sick tree it will aid in recovery. good luck[/rquote]
Thanks a lot for that information. I was thinking its the soil, but didn`t conclude to the end. Fagin o.k. Treating w/ fungicide o.k. But where to
get fungicide?? I asked in Home Depot/Garden Dept. here in Cabo. They have no idea about fungicide. Maybe I should ask mercado libre about that.
Or is there any other recommendation??
Our soil is very poor anyway. More clay than soil. We are mixing sand in between. R U recommending fertilizer in such case?
THX again.
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JC43
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Posts: 498
Registered: 6-21-2014
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| Quote: Originally posted by pacificobob | | Quote: Originally posted by JC43 | | Planting at this time is not a problem. Perfectly o.k.! And YES the winds were brutally this year. Knocking over our oleanders as well. More
important four of our Ficus Benjamini are crippling. They are about ten years old. Last year more than 6 feet high having perfect dark green leaves
they are now turning to cripples. Leaves falling off being pale green. Dying branches. They are getting water every second , third day. More water
dosn`t help at all. Normally in summer they are getting rid of some leaves when not supported w/ enough water. That`s normal. Anybody knows
something about that?? |
might be soil fungus. i have had similar symptoms on ficus and neem trees.
i treat the soil with a fungicide and buckhorn the affected trees. also apply the fungicide to adjacent trees. its a good idea to treat your shoes and
tools with a bleach solution. if you keep it moist, it may survive.
if you can toss some malla sombra over it sick tree it will aid in recovery. good luck |
I just learned out of mercadolibre that most fungicide are based on copper. Copperproducts. Is that o.k.? Others are based on sulfur. What is
correctv to use?
[Edited on 4-17-2021 by JC43]
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9010
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
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If you have a choice, plant after the hot season. You will need less water, as well, to start.
This is especially true if you plan on leaving for the summer and HOPING they make it. Better to be able to monitor their conditions and adjust
accordingly.
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pacificobob
Super Nomad
Posts: 2308
Registered: 4-23-2006
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are you in an area that has commercial agriculture? go to an agriculture supply place. ask for benoma-t. or a similar soil fungicide.
it's a powder..i use a cup to 5 gallons.
drench the surrounding soil..
a lot of these ag supply places have an engineer on staff who can offer council.
fertilizer is not the fix...but a light application won't hurt. nothing wrong with copper..its naturally found in soil.
don't buy ag products designed for a suburban homeowner...go pro!
good luck...report your results. i have had about 50/50 results saving trees that suffer from these plagas.
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JC43
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Posts: 498
Registered: 6-21-2014
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| Quote: Originally posted by pacificobob | are you in an area that has commercial agriculture? go to an agriculture supply place. ask for benoma-t. or a similar soil fungicide.
it's a powder..i use a cup to 5 gallons.
drench the surrounding soil..
a lot of these ag supply places have an engineer on staff who can offer council.
fertilizer is not the fix...but a light application won't hurt. nothing wrong with copper..its naturally found in soil.
don't buy ag products designed for a suburban homeowner...go pro!
good luck...report your results. i have had about 50/50 results saving trees that suffer from these plagas. |
First and foremost: THANKS! for the info. There are no Ag-Pros in Cabo but a lot of Sex-Pros. They won`t help - I suppose.  So I will drive towards Todos to find what`s needed.
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JC43
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Posts: 498
Registered: 6-21-2014
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Well, the old lady Google helped me. This is what she said:
https://www.velsimex.com/fungicidas/
But the application recommends: Spray it onto the plant. Nothing about soil treatment. ???
[Edited on 4-17-2021 by JC43]
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pacificobob
Super Nomad
Posts: 2308
Registered: 4-23-2006
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benoma-t is the 3rd product listed. as you enter la paz from the south, there's numerous ag supply places along the highway. most of the office
staff lack much knowledge....but they know how to contact the staff engineer ...talk with that guy.
i have made good use of their knowledge on ⁶many occasions.
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JC43
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Registered: 6-21-2014
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THATS A REAL GOOD ONE  I LIKE IT!!
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JC43
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Posts: 498
Registered: 6-21-2014
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| Quote: Originally posted by pacificobob |
benoma-t is the 3rd product listed. as you enter la paz from the south, there's numerous ag supply places along the highway. most of the office
staff lack much knowledge....but they know how to contact the staff engineer ...talk with that guy.
i have made good use of their knowledge on ⁶many occasions.
|
Thanks again, but on this recommendation I don`t think want to drive all the way to La Paz only talking to people which may or may not tell me if or
not I can just pour it onto the soil. Of course I can pour it wherever I want, that`s not the point. Point is: Does it help the soil? Do u know? I
would guess it will. If it kills fungus on a leave it will kill the same fungus in the soil. And ordering it from mercadolibre.com is more easy.
Shipment in most cases are 99 Pesos. I have to walk to get to La Paz for 99 Pesos !
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JC43
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Posts: 498
Registered: 6-21-2014
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@ pacificobob - and others interested.
This is what I found about Benoma T 50
The BENOMA-T 50 Product or Service is described for:
Pharmaceutical and veterinary preparations; sanitary preparations for medical purposes; dietary substances adapted for medical use, baby food; plaster
for medical use, material for healing (dressings and bandages); material to cover teeth; dental wax; disinfectants; preparations for the destruction
of harmful animals namely; insecticides, pesticides, miticides, fungicides, herbicides.
The owner of the BENOMA-T 50 brand is:
Velsimex, SA De CV; MX; Av. Central # 206, Floor 3, Col. San Pedro De Los Pinos. Mexico DF. 01180, MEXICO. It is a class 5 brand
Registration dates for " BENOMA-T 50 " was:
Concession: 2008-03-19 Presentation: 2008-02-25 Trademark registration file: 916474
We do not have the RFC of BENOMA-T 50 available, but this product and / or service is for Pharmaceutical and Veterinary Preparations; sanitary
preparations for medical purposes; dietary substances adapted for medical use, baby food; plaster for medical use, material for healing (dressings and
bandages); material to cover teeth; dental wax; disinfectants; preparations for the destruction of harmful animals namely; insecticides, pesticides,
miticides, fungicides, herbicides.
OTHER BRANDS RELATED TO BENOMA-T 50, AND REGISTERED WITH THE IMPI. (Mexican Institute of Intellectual Property) are:
BIK'IT
EL ANTIGUO
CAMELLO DEPOCALITZIN
Other areas included in this class of brands are: Caffeine preparations for stimulant use, Herbs for medicinal purposes, Food for infants,
Food supplements, Pharmaceutical products for treatment of erectile dysfunction, Bacteriological culture media,
Nasopharyngeal swabs for medical use, These products are classified in class 5 by analogy with the "cotton swabs for medical use" in the Nice
alphabetical list of class 5. Swabs for medical use are accepted; More specifications are accepted, but not required. of BENOMA-T 50, Pharmaceutical
Preparations for Use in Chemotherapy, Radiopharmaceuticals for Imaging and Detection for Cancer Diagnosis and Monitoring,
Biocides, Germicides, Bactericides, Virucides, Fungicides, Insecticides, Pesticides and Herbicides, Anthelmintics, Nutritionally Fortified Water for
Medical Use, This article refers to water that is simply a carrier of nutritional supplements. A regular Class 32 drink that simply has an additional
component for health, such as calcium-enriched orange juice, is still in Class 32. 01-01-2016: On 01-01-2016, this entry from 08- 06-2001 was modified
to add "for medical purposes" in accordance with the Nice Classification, tenth edition, version 2016, effective from 01-01-2016. According to Nice
10-2016, identifications of fortified, improved or nutritionally enriched foods or beverages must indicate a medical, therapeutic or veterinary
purpose for classification in Class 5.
BUSINESS ITEMS
WEL ! They say its good for baby food? Does it really kill fungus??
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