Choral Pepper's 'LOST' MISSION SITE: FOUND! (What do you think it is?)

Dear Friends,

It is with great excitement that I share this with you...

The mysterious site of walls, a dam, a palm tree, Indian sleeping circles are ALL there... just the way Choral Pepper reported in her July, 1966 Desert Magazine and her 1973 Baja book!!! Choral believed the site was a mission shown only on one Jesuit (1757) map as 'started' by the name of Santa Maria Magdalena.

Choral and I spoke often of her desire to go back and find that site that she could not recall the exact location of. I have also spoken to Bruce Barber, J.W. Black, and Ricardo Castillo who were on the Erle Stanley Gardner expedition of February, 1966. None could recall where the walls and dam were, other than south of L.A. Bay and north of El Barril.

The site was seen after they visited Bahia las Animas to get clams for dinner. They were opening an abandoned road as well as creating a new road south, in the La Bocana valley, in order to get through to the El Arco/ San Francisquito road.

Since my meetings with Choral some seven plus years ago, I made six trips into the region searching for her 'lost mission' of Santa Maria Magdalena. One of those trips I drove right by it! I have links to the photos taken on previous searches ( in 2001-2004) on this page: http://vivabaja.com/1757/page2.html

Choral had hoped I would someday find it... No, she 'knew' I would find it... and with a great tip by Nomad member 'Sharksbaja' who saw some walls on the Google Earth satellite images and sent them to me... Elizabeth and I went there... and THERE it was!!! It was no easy task getting to them, and I have some fresh scars to show for it!

I have attached the photos from 1966, the mission as listed in Tom Miller's 'The Baja Book', and a couple photos we took this past Friday.

A big thank you to Choral Pepper for sharing the 1966 discovery in her magazine and book as well as her personal inspiration and enthusiasm.

Without the tip from 'Sharksbaja' (Corky), who knows when I would have found it?... THANK YOU CORKY!!! This has been one of the greatest Baja experiences I have ever had!

Many more details and photos coming soon... we returned from Baja just last night! Stay tuned to http://forums.BajaNomad.com for the Trip Report.

Happy New Year to you all!

David Kier 1-4-09
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1966:






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2009:





(HOLDING THE 1966 PHOTO)



From 'The Baja Book' by Tom Miller:


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Many, many more photos and details coming soon!



[Edited on 1-14-2009 by David K]

We arrived at Baja Cactus Friday night at 7:20pm-ish... The place was totally full... We were refered to the brand new motel on the east end of town, across from Baja's Best Restaurant/ B&B... called the Turista Motel... It was great, and only 300 pesos/ $25 US. It will be detailed in the trip report.

Elizabeth and I had 4 fantastic days in Baja... the best! Baja Lou's party, BajaRob and Connie's hospitality, the road to Gonzaga Bay (killed my 'cheap' HID lights), lost mission found, 5 minute border wait at Tecate Saturday afternoon...

I am loading photos onto Photobucket from the trip (175)... Takes some time!

We came by to see you and Dern on our way back to Bahia Friday afternoon... alas, you left in the morning... perhaps just after we drove south early, past your driveway.

Here is one more photo that was inspired by Pompano!:


The satellite maps of the site, are below...

[Edited on 1-9-2009 by David K]

David, are you sure that is the Lost Mission site? I noticed that the cactus in the background in your photo looks a little different from the one in the 1966 picture???



Seriously though, a big congratulations David.

GREAT JOB!!!

WOW! Outstanding!

LINKS TO MORE PHOTOS HERE:

David the clues you provided told me where to look. I concentrated on searching the area with a 5 mile radius from the water. They said it was only a few miles from the Bay so I looked at any "mountain" in that vicinity.
I hope you can deduce who built all that. Were their middens on the mesa? Did the wall have a substantial base like the Jesuits were know for?

Could you see where there was past evidence of near-surface water? Also there appears to be a thick growth of vegetation just downstream of the mesa. Did you see that.

There were lines running up along the edge of the arroyo fan that could be walls. Were you able to get over there?

Yes, I've been real cuious too! Good stuff David. I hope this can clear up some intriguing questions. Are you going back soon?


btw, I found some other misplaced walls in Baja. Curious?

Letter from Choral Pepper's son, 1-5-09

The time when you and I went there together was fun... Neal and Marian Johns were there, too.

Choral (Corke) invited me back several times to go over the new 'Baja Missions, Mysteries and Myths' book editing... this was after the publisher added new demands on Choral she wasn't willing or able to comply with and gave me the book m/s to do what I wished with.

Every time I am sure we talked about the Santa Maria Magdalena site... she really wanted to go back and see it, we could find it again!

Here is a photo of us taken about 2001.

[Edited on 1-8-2009 by David K]

The clues and the find... Da Vinci Code style.

The entire chapter is posted in the Nomad Historical Interests and Literature forum... Here is the part of Choral's book with what the Erle Stanley Gardner team saw in February, 1966... What I have been looking for, all these years:

===================================================

There it was, a primitive dam among rocks and dead trees with a scraggly date palm standing alone. Usually date palms appear in groves. This one was relatively young, so must have sprouted from seeds dropped by dead ones.
We left our grasshoppers to climb into the ravine and examine remnants of the dam that once held water in a natural reservoir. An ancient wall half-buried in sand angled from the dam to stretch in broken sections across the level valley. Then, from the other end, a similar wall serpentined up the side of a steep mountain. It was easy to miss, as the stones were coated with desert varnish and melded into the rocky terrain. The upper parts of the wall, constructed above a thicker base typical of mission trails, remained in only a few places. The top of the mountain appeared flat, but its sides were steep. From where we stood, we could only guess at a structure on top.


It was a hot day and a climb up the hill uninviting, but somehow I felt we’d discovered something interesting. Subsequent research proved me right about that, as established in my earlier Baja books. Today it is generally accepted that this is the old Jesuit mission of Santa Maria Magdalena, which was never finished, and which had necessitated the Padres Gulfo Camino, later abandoned.
In the first place, the rock-lined wall leading up the steep hill was an enormously ambitious project, much more than Indians native to Baja would have undertaken on their own. Then, the rocks on the walls were heavily coated with desert varnish, all of it deposited on the upper sides. This black coating on rocks called desert varnish occurs in desert regions all over the world, often on the faces of rocky cliffs as well as on rock covered ground. European scientists refer to it as dunkel Riden and believe it is caused when rainwater soaks into the rock and is then brought back to the surface by capillary action of the sun. Here it evaporates, leaving a deposit of the chemicals with which it becomes charged according to the composition of the rock itself. If there is too much moisture, it departs the rock in liquid form and carries the salts with it. If there is too little moisture, salts are not dissolved to form the varnish on top while unexposed sides remain natural. In desert climates like Baja, it can take many centuries to form. In less than several hundred years the tops of all these rocks would not have tanned to the same degree. On the plateau at the top of the mountain, the wall continued around the edge, but in several areas there were large piles of rock, that appeared to have fallen, or been knocked down, from a larger structure, possibly a lookout tower.


We were intrigued by a series of rock rings grouped in a colony at the far end of the plateau, some with adjoining openings as if to designate separate rooms. Early Baja natives connected with the missions often lived in circular pens of stones, sleeping on the bare ground. Eroded clamshells lay among the rings, suggesting the pens had held people, not cattle.


In view of extensive walls in the now arid valley below and the number of huge old trees, many dead, there must have been a live spring dammed there at one time. Walls designed to confine cattle as well as the presence of a date palm clearly indicated missionary direction. But historical as well as physical evidence re-enforced my identification of the site as Santa Maria Magdalena.

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Here is what Baja Angel and I saw in January, 2009:

1) Primitive dam






2) Scraggly date palm standing alone






3) Reservoir that once held water (photo from mesa)




4) Ancient wall, half-buried in sand




5) Then, from the other end, a similar wall serpentined up the side of a steep mountain. It was easy to miss, as the stones were coated with desert varnish and melded into the rocky terrain.






6) The top of the mountain appeared flat, but its sides were steep.

TOP:


SIDES (notice the slide/ chute, cleared of rocks):



7) On the plateau at the top of the mountain, the wall continued around the edge






8) in several areas there were large piles of rock, that appeared to have fallen, or been knocked down, from a larger structure, possibly a lookout tower.




9) We were intrigued by a series of rock rings grouped in a colony at the far end of the plateau, some with adjoining openings as if to designate separate rooms












10) Eroded clamshells lay among the rings, suggesting the pens had held people, not cattle.





Yup... the clues were right on target... and with Sharksbaja sharp eye in GoogleEarth spotting a wall from space, the mystery as to where the old mission or whatever site was, was solved!



[Edited on 1-9-2009 by David K]

Site Marked

I went over the Google Earth 3-D images of the site and made some changes/ additions:

First, the mesa, looking west, unmarked...




With label marks, looking northwest...




looking west...




looking south...




and looking northeast...

Ok then, thanks for that. Seriously, I think there is more to the story but I can handle it, not knowing who the heck built it.

It is a shame heritage and history is so lightly considered in Baja. Kudos to you and Jack for preserving history through your own efforts.

NEW DETAILS!

Wow! How did this peson come to know about the hill? I'm curious as to why he/shecome forward as per your search earlier.
Those are some intriguing artifacts and evidence found. Very cool indeed. I especially love the name of that hill. Did they find skulls there? I'll have to read the literature.
Glad to hear it's documented. Funny how others knew all along.

I guess we should have Googled it first!
Here is some more data from Ritter et al:

http://ir.lib.sfu.ca/bitstream/1892/8497/1/b18457976.pdf



[Edited on 1-12-2009 by Sharksbaja]

This is really funny----------I have known Dr. Ritter well for some 35 years, and he lives only a few blocks from me here in Redding, CA.

I guess I need to go over and talk to him.

Barry

------Oh my Gawd, responsibility for sure.

Perhaps you can convince him to join in Nomads, Barry. That would be the icing on Davids' cake. Glad to see the mystery solved. Those are freakin' old walls!!!

Quote:

Originally posted by Sharksbaja Wow! How did this peson come to know about the hill? I'm curious as to why he/shecome forward as per your search earlier. Those are some intriguing artifacts and evidence found. Very cool indeed. I especially love the name of that hill. Did they find skulls there? I'll have to read the literature. Glad to hear it's documented. Funny how others knew all along. I guess we should have Googled it first! Here is some more data from Ritter et al: http://ir.lib.sfu.ca/bitstream/1892/8497/1/b18457976.pdf [Edited on 1-12-2009 by Sharksbaja]

Then where in relation to the bay, or Choral's 'mission' site is the Cerro de las Calaveras?

'Fulano' on BajaForums.com seemed to have already some knowledge of the Ritter report and it was he who said the siite in my photos WAS the Cerro de las Candeleras...

How does Dr. Ritter know the site hasn't been examined?

If it wasn't for my posts about it... I wouldn't have gotten the link to Ritter's papers (some of them, anyway) and you wouldn't have contacted him... It is a chicken or the egg sort of question, perhaps? I went someplace I was looking for, took photos and posted the photos, just like I do with all my Baja trips... and we all can enjoy new places to visit or just see online without touching anything!

I will call Dr. Ritter tomorrow, Barry... Thanks for the contact info. Please see my email, as well.

The Truth is Out There!




[Edited on 1-13-2009 by David K]

Thanks a bunch Barry for taking the time and giving a damn. It sure is a small world. I suppose we could have tracked him fdown but you being a friend of his really gave this subject a kickstart.

We sometimes (not me:lol jump to conclusions hastily. I was suprised to see David's "it's just a wall" stance. Obviously that is not the case.

David, Dr Ritter is an authority. You already commented as to the poor archaeological interests in Baja by local authorities. When you discuss this with him please ask him if he's aware of other studies of "Cerro Gardner".



[Edited on 1-13-2009 by Sharksbaja]

Quote:

Originally posted by David K Quote: Originally posted by Paulina Waiting for the details... I am loading photos onto Photobucket from the trip (175)... Takes some time! We came by to see you and Dern on our way back to Bahia Friday afternoon... alas, you left in the morning... perhaps just after we drove south early, past your driveway. Here is one more photo that was inspired by Pompano!: The satellite maps of the site, are below... [Edited on 1-9-2009 by David K]

Dr. Eric W. Ritter Archaeologist

Good sleuthing avid. It would be of interest to note that the remains of the bones that were subjected to isotope testing revealed their diet(s).

It seems fairly conclusive that mammals made up a very small percentage of their diet. I did not see bighorns listed as part of their diet but surely is quite plausible that they somehow managed to trap and kill them.

We need some experts to go find out.

I have seen those bighorns in Alaska literally leap from precipice to precipice with little effort. Those walls sure are low for containing those beasts.

They really are oddly constructed and placed.

David, you are probably correct about the use of the area by different cultures, tribes and peoples. The fact that water was available so close to the sea enabled the inhabitants to thrive. Perhaps the place was well established for eons.

Not really, David. I have seen dates growing in very remote areas. Probably "planted" by birds, coyotes, vaqueros, or Nomads... The fact that there are no European artifacts at the site: glazed ceramics, roof tiles, floor tiles, buttons, glass, coins, etc (At least, none noted in the PCAS article on the site I sent you) suggest to me it is primarily a Native American site. The walls could have been built by vaqueros, but since there is no European debris, I can't see any European habitation component.

There really should be something. For example, when I visited the San Pedro Martir Mission site with Jack Swards, Pappy, Mexitron, and others there was quite a bit of European debris in the area from the mission era.

Quote:

Originally posted by Taco de Baja Quote: Originally posted by David K Wonderful news Taco de Baja!!! That does make the mission connection more realistic... Not really, David. I have seen dates growing in very remote areas. Probably "planted" by birds, coyotes, vaqueros, or Nomads... The fact that there are no European artifacts at the site: glazed ceramics, roof tiles, floor tiles, buttons, glass, coins, etc (At least, none noted in the PCAS article on the site I sent you) suggest to me it is primarily a Native American site. The walls could have been built by vaqueros, but since there is no European debris, I can't see any European habitation component. There really should be something. For example, when I visited the San Pedro Martir Mission site with Jack Swards, Pappy, Mexitron, and others there was quite a bit of European debris in the area from the mission era.

Quote:

Originally posted by Taco de Baja Quote: Originally posted by David K Wonderful news Taco de Baja!!! That does make the mission connection more realistic... Not really, David. I have seen dates growing in very remote areas. Probably "planted" by birds, coyotes, vaqueros, or Nomads... The fact that there are no European artifacts at the site: glazed ceramics, roof tiles, floor tiles, buttons, glass, coins, etc (At least, none noted in the PCAS article on the site I sent you) suggest to me it is primarily a Native American site. The walls could have been built by vaqueros, but since there is no European debris, I can't see any European habitation component. There really should be something. For example, when I visited the San Pedro Martir Mission site with Jack Swards, Pappy, Mexitron, and others there was quite a bit of European debris in the area from the mission era.

What, a double standard? (No way, not you!)

That would be kind of you. I guess he decided against signing on here. Too bad.,I don't really want to go thru you and get something back paraphrased.

Quote:

Originally posted by Sharksbaja Quote: Originally posted by David K (no, I won't tell you where, lol) What, a double standard? (No way, not you!) Quote: Corky, I will be happy to forward your question to him the next time!. That would be kind of you. I guess he decided against signing on here. Too bad.,I don't really want to go thru you and get something back paraphrased.

I found references to the Spanish Missions in California (including Baja) having 150,000 sheep. Sheep are very hardy and adaptable. I have seen them in the Red Desert in Wyoming and the soggy wet Willamette Valley during Oregon winters. In the Western US they generally would go to the high country during the summer months. There are different breeds available for almost every habitat. The Spanish would have brought Merino's developed in the Mediterranean. They are graziers not browsers like goats. Sheep would prefer grass and herbaceous forbs.

I hope that I didn't suggest that rock walls would corral Bighorns. However I would imagine a rock wall could influence their behavior. For instance, perhaps the Natives built blinds and wanted the Bighorns to become accustomed to moving in certain patterns. They would throw up a rock wall and the Bighorns or other mammals might have avoided going near it, let alone over it.

I was thinking about the sleeping circles with shells. What a perfect place to drop off a herder. There was transportable fast food right at hand.

Sorry David, that came out wrong I guess. Yes it would be kind of you to ask him. You understand info is always better from the "horses mouth" so to speak. I meant only that I'd like to discuss this with him personally. Afterall, he is the authority and I don't have a way to talk with him outside this forum.

Lately you have been jumped on a little but it's just the normal course the forum takes. The more you post the more you get stepped on. It's not that bad is it? I think the forum has been more civil than I've ever seen it, no?

Btw, who are these loonies?

Avid, I hear ya! My point was to see if there is any evidence of comingled artifacts or evidence that would support the fact that sheep were indeed part of the diet. Trying to figure out if habitation was limited to the circle builders or the more recent dwellers(wall builders?) who did have access to Spanish sheep. Certainly interesting to ponder those walls.




[Edited on 1-18-2009 by Sharksbaja]

CLOSE UP of 'Chute/ Slide'

Here is a zoom in on that cleared 'chute' or slide that I thought may have been where supplies for the Spanish fort on top (or whatever was on top) were dragged or pulled up by rope...

This is very steep... we climbed up/ and back down just to the left of it, because using rocks to hold or step on seemed easier, it was that steep.



What do you think???

Here is the full image... note my Tacoma at the bottom for scale...



[Edited on 1-18-2009 by David K]

It was... very much...! I wanted to see the place since I read about it in high school (when I bought Choral's 1973 book) and did a report on the Baja missions for my 11th grade California History class in 1975.

I utilized Choral's book for my report (mission photos) ... Got an A for it. So, in 1998 I contacted Choral to ask if she had extra copies so I could get a replacement... That is how our friendship statred. It was great, she was one of my 'Baja heroes'

Here is my worn and sacrificed copy:

Here is the 1975 revised edition... notice the slight change in the title? Choral didn't have any extras, so I found this one online.

Choral autographed them both for me.