Santiago
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"When I got to this place, I was broken"
April 25th: Day 1: Border crossing on Sunday afternoon very easy except that my friend Andy was told that ?absolutely, for sure, no more birth certs
next year ?. Passports only. Anyone else getting this? Stayed at Parisio las Palmas in Ensenada. $65 ? same as in October 2003.
Day 2: 9:00am breakfast at Mama Espinozas and arrived at Bahia de Las Angeles early afternoon. Stopped in at the ?Yellow? store for a few supplies ?
fruit and veggies were way passed it. Anyone know when Bahia gets fresh fruit/veggies? Clearly not on Monday. Aired down to 20# for trip to Gecko and
Animas the following day. Unpacked and launched for a quick boat check and a few bass at Horsehead. Dropped in on Beach Bob and found out that Andy
and Bob were both from the same general area of Cleaveland ? just a few blocks apart but about 10 years different in age. I third-wheeled it for the
rest of the evening.
Day 3: Woke way after sun-up ? Beach Bob?s fault. Replaced the trailer part I ?borrowed? from MH on my last trip and we packed the essentials and
headed to Animas with a stop at Las Flores to explore the jail and general area. Followed DK?s 2002 report (from the old Amigos Board) of his hike to
the terminus of the rail line with Doc. Only thing I would add is that following the raised bed of the old line to the right (south) is correct, if
very confusing, as you think this would take you to Las Flores, not the terminus. Instead the line is making a loop in order to decrease the grade as
the engines could not make a straight shot. Further, the road is very narrow necessitating a new paint job or living with Baja stripes, both sides,
top to bottom. Made Animas about 1 PM and was surprised that the first ?abandoned? shack was occupied. We stopped and introduced ourselves to the
only occupant, Carlos, who was mending his gill nets. Carlos was very friendly and helpful, told us to camp wherever we wish, and to please use his
outhouse he had built just west of the road. If we needed anything, just to ask. Little did we know........
Set up camp at first clump of bushes, in the dunes to the north of Carlos and took his advice of ignoring the rock launch ramp at this spot and
launching at the soft sand beach to the north (preferred spot in Baja Catch). Nice steep incline and boat floated off, but could not go 2 feet up the
beach in the soft sand and the tide coming in. Carlos to the rescue with 4 other guys in a 4 banger Toyota. Strapped to my Tundra, boat trailer
unhooked, all 8 tires throwing sand, we tried 6 times, failing each one. Finally, we turned parallel to the shore in the wet sand to get enough speed
to breach the 12? of 15 degree slope of really soft sand. We made it with one pangero driving, 3 in the back of the 4 banger jumping up and down for
traction, and one fat gringo pushing the Tundra. All parties swearing in their native tongues. Much back-slapping and high-fives all around and
assurances that when it came time to pull out, they would be there to help. Swam out and retrieved the boat we all forgot to secure, somehow squirmed
over the gunnel to the sound of Mexican laughter and could not start the brand new, $4500 4 stroke Yamaha with only 24 hours on it. Wouldn?t even
turn over. Sumb-tch. Jumped back in and towed it the 200 yards to shore. Found the blown fuse and replaced it with my only spare. With great fanfare
and nods to our audience, Andy pushes the starter switch and the Yamie kicks over ? and over and over and over...... Absolutely will not start. Did I
mention that this was a brand new, $4500 4 stroke Yamaha with only 24 hours on it? In danger of running down the battery, we take a beer break on the
beach to rethink it all out. Soon Carlos sticks his head over the dunes to inquire why the cowling is off the brand new, $4500 4 stroke Yamaha with
only 24 hours on it. Standing waist deep in water, Carlos at the back fiddling with the carburetor linkage with another pangero at the switch, he
clears the flooded cylinders and gets it running in 3 minutes. As I?m putting the cowling back on, he mentions that he?s never worked on this kind of
engine before. It?s 5 pm and we finally have the motor running and as we jump in to get to the evening bite, Carlos worriedly tells to stay within
sight as they will be watching us incase they need to come get us before dark. Now why would he think that? Motor is flawless and we spend a great
couple of hours on the water and head in. Anchor offshore next to Carlos? panga, make camp fire and set up our cots on the beach. Carlos calls out
?Good night, seniors? as he walks back from the fish camp to his shack.
Day 4: I?m up at 5AM, making coffee as Andy stirs and I hear Carlos getting up. I invite Carlos over for some coffee and banana nut bread and give
him a few cigars as he is out of cigarettes for a few days until his partner gets back form Ensenada. We pack the boat and head to Animas Point and
have maybe the finest ?under-10 pound? day we?ve ever had. At one point we caught and release over 42 fish in under 25 minutes ? most in the 3 ? 5
pound range. Conservatively, we had a 100-fish day, spotted bay bass making up the majority. Only a few over 5 pounds. No yellowtail, out to 250
feet of water. Lots of bait in the water. Wind picks up at noon and we scoot in. As someone left the ice chest with the extra ice, water and beer
back at Gecko, we decide to break camp, return to Gecko and fish the north part of Animas from Gecko the following day. As we?re breaking camp,
Carlos comes over and invites us to lunch, as he caught some octopus in his nets this morning and is frying it up, ranchero style. Here we are,
sitting on a broken down back seat of some car, under a giant salt cedar, eating the freshest, tastiest calamari with warm tortillas on the face of
this earth. He gives us all we can eat, and then gets 2 more whole ones and gives them to us. As we shake hands to go, Andy gives him a 20 dollar
bill. Carlos protests, but we insist ? after all, we would still be stuck in the sand with a boat that wouldn?t run if not for him ? to say nothing
of the splendid lunch we just had. Tears well up in his eyes and the story comes out.
?I was born in 1980 in Ensenada and spent a few years of my school age in Fresno. But we had to go back to Baja and I became a mechanic and a
fisherman in Ensenada. Business was bad and we had been hearing from the ice truck that the fish camp at Animas was doing good, so my partner and I
decided to try. I came alone and this is only my second week. When I got to this place I was broken and the fish camp would not let me stay with
them, but that is good because they are wolves. I found this abandoned shack and set my nets right in front where I can watch them. Each day I have
only my by-catch to eat and any rabbits or squirrels I can catch. I will not get paid for my first week?s catch until the truck comes next week ? I
have to live with no money for 3 weeks. I only have enough propane to last one more day, so I will keep this $20 to buy more propane from the wolves
at the main fish camp. Please come and visit me on your next trip and I will give you the $20 back.?
We take our leave and drive back to Gecko, in almost complete silence.
Day 5, 6 & 7: For the most part, the West and North winds keep us off the water. We do the usual things, make visits, explore the area, but we are
bothered. From time-to-time, one of us will broach the subject: how does such genuine and simple kindness to strangers happen? How do we get some of
that in our own lives?
Day 8: We leave Gecko at 5:30 AM, cross 2 checkpoints before we even make Hiway 1 and cross the border at 3:30; no wait, no problems.
[Edited on 5-5-2004 by Santiago]
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Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
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Great report Santiago
Carlos really made your trip. I'll have to go out there the next time we're at Gecko. I haven't been to Animas by land for 20 years, but it sounds
like you had no problem (on the road in) with loose sand. Great report.
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Santiago
Ultra Nomad
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As reported before, the road south of Gecko is in good shape, having been graded earlier this year and little traffic. The 10.5 miles from this road
to Animas is largley dirt and some sand, but very driveable.
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Me No
Banned
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Excellent report Santiago. It made the hair on my arms stand up to read the tail of Carlos. Maybe one day we will all be lucky enough to me such a
person, and be in the correct place in our minds and hearts to recognize when we do. Thanks again.
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Lindalou
Senior Nomad
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Santiago, did you drive into camp Gecko in a motorhome? I asked Doc about it and he said as long as you go slow you can make it no problem. We have a
34 foot pulling a little car. How rough is it?....Thanks for the story!
Linda
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Santiago
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Lots of motorhomes drive the 4 miles from the town proper to Gecko, and yes, take it slow.
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David K
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Excellent story Santiago! You covered everything so well. The Carlos story was a tear jerker, too.
My details of cool Baja places, such as the railroad line's south terminal are never 100%, because I want you guys to discover things, as well! http://davidksbaja.com/402/page4.html
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Kathleen
Newbie
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Santiago
May 25th: Day 1: Border crossing on Sunday afternoon very easy except that my friend Andy was told that ?absolutely, for sure, no more birth certs
next year ?. Passports only. Anyone else getting this? Stayed at Parisio las Palmas in Ensenada. $65 ? same as in October 2003.
>>>>
I am confused.... May 25th hasn't even happened yet. It is only may 5th.
Am I in the twilight zone? |
Kathleen
If you are kind, people may accuse you of selfish,
ulterior motives; Be kind anyway.
Mother Teresa
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Santiago
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3528
Registered: 8-27-2003
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Alright already.... April 25th
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Kathleen
Newbie
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april 25th
| Quote: | Originally posted by Santiago
Alright already.... April 25th |
>>>
WHEW thank you.
I read your article several times thinking maybe it happened last year but then there was that comment about oct so... was thinking you meant oct 2002
I am easily confused.
Kathleen
If you are kind, people may accuse you of selfish,
ulterior motives; Be kind anyway.
Mother Teresa
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GeoRock
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Location: Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mood: Always have one
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Moving story. I hope I am one day lucky enough to meet Carlos.
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