David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64829
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Baja 709-8: DAY 7 (PM): Santa Rosalia to San Borja to El Rosario
This is continued from 709-7 at: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=40443
We arrive at the Santa Rosalia Pemex (the ‘good one’) at 12:19pm to top the tank. As we had run short on pesos (I should have used dollars at the Coco
Cabañas), I paid in dollars (the station rate was 12 pesos: dollar). The attendant was honest with everything and I actually seemed to get the amount
of fuel the pump indicated! The truck took on 46.5 liters (12.3 gallons) for 345 pesos (US $28.75) and we traveled 190.8 miles (some off pavement).
That works out to $2.33/ gallon and we got 15.5 mpg. Overall, the truck averaged 18 mpg on the entire trip.
Santa Rosalia's famous black sand beach.
The climb up the Cuesta del Infierno was easy with no slow trucks in front of us. We arrived at San Ignacio at 1:10 pm and had lunch at Ricardo’s Rice
& Beans. We both had great food. Elizabeth ordered the carne asada plate and I had the combination plate, which included a really good Chile
relleno! The price (with 3 Cokes) was US $20. We were back on the road at 1:55pm and soon had to stop for the military checkpoint.
Rice and Beans has lot's of stickers!
My 2001 Viva Baja sticker is still there!
The food was really good and the view of the oasis from our patio table was nice.
A few miles south of Vizcaino, I spot the old Baja main road climbing a hill and drive off Hwy. 1 for a close look.
The new Pemex is a bit south of Vizcaino...
New roadwork in Vizcaino.
Origianal Vizcaino Pemex.
I made a couple of kilometer marker notes: The Guillermo Prieto road (shortcut to Santa Gertrudis, Punta San Francisquito, L.A. Bay is at Km. 154 ¾.
The El Arco road is at Km. 189 and the Eagle Monument is at Km. 220 (we stopped for the migra guy, but he waved us across the state border without
looking at our FM-Ts, this time. The time at at the border (Eagle Monument) was 3:44 pm which became 2:44 pm with the time zone change… Yea, another
hour for Baja!
Eagle Monument, from the south.
We stopped to fill up at Villa Jesus Maria (Km. 95) at 3:04pm. The truck took on 35 liters (9.2 gallons) for 260 pesos ($21.67) after 157.8 miles
(17.2 mpg). Hey, some of you like these details I have been told! The military checkpoint at the El Tomatal road was the most detailed, but none of
them took too long to look over stuff.
Carmelita's won't be the same without her! (Villa Jesus Maria)
26 miles from Villa Jesus Maria we arrived at Rosarito (Nuevo Rosarito) Km. 53, at 3:37 pm. Here we left the pavement to drive to Mision San Borja… I
had wanted to take Elizabeth there since her first trip to Baja with me, 4 ½ years ago.
The road was rougher than the last time I traveled it (2003) as more rocks were exposed from erosion.
The signed road to Rancho Santa Ana (a visita site of San Borja) is 13.8 miles from Rosarito.
Rancho San Ignacito (another San Borja visita site) is at Mile 16.2 and the junction with the road north to the Bahia de los Angeles highway is at
Mile 21.7.
San Ignacito ruins.
We arrive at San Borja at 4:45 pm, 22.7 miles from Rosarito and go straight into the mission to see some amazing construction, done here in the late
1700’s. A lady named Maria soon arrived to escort us around the mission. Maria was very nice and although she didn’t speak any English, wanted to
learn certain words as we walked around. We would later learn the priest in Guerrero Negro once again has relieved Jose from showing the mission
because he is not Catholic. However, Jose is being employed to work on the mission repairs and reconstruction that has been going on. We tipped Maria
for her time with us, and then went over to where Jose was working by his home.
(L to R): Jesuit, Dominican, Franciscan robes.
sink.
Wooden doors and windows have been added since my last visit.
up
new bell.
down
I had made copies of photo I had taken over the years of Jose and his family. They had remembered our visits and my kids. One of the photos I had for
them was my daughter Sarah and his daughter Brisa. Brisa lives in Rosarito, has three children and works at the café with a palapa in Rosarito, we
were told.
Jose has started a small museum of area artifacts, plus he is making examples of Indian stone tools and metates. Jose and family are all really nice
people and will welcome you to visit any time. They have palapas for camping and can take you on tour to all the historic sites in the region. The sun
is setting soon so we must go, but Elizabeth is so impressed she wants to return and spend more time at San Borja. Gee, the things I must do to please
this woman! LOL!!! (I am the luckiest guy on earth)
From the San Juan mines.
We leave San Borja and head north at 5:45pm and reach the L.A. Bay highway at 7:00pm, 21.4 miles from San Borja. This road is much better than the one
from Rosarito, but there are some rocky sections to slow down for. A pickup or SUV would be better than a sedan, but no 4WD needed.
Agua de Higuera (bubbling sulfur water spring) along road.
It is dark as we arrive at Laguna Chapala for an opportunity to have the famous machaca for dinner that I heard about on Nomad. Well, the
waitress/cook seemed unhappy that she had to put down the cigarette she was smoking while watching TV. However, she did prepare a dinner plate that
looked good. It stared with a bowl of soup (Cup of Noodles), with a lime. Hmmm, the Cup of Noodles was actually very good with a lime squeezed in it!
The use of limes on food and drinks in Baja is never ending! Unfortunately, the machaca was not well hydrated and was kind of like eating jerky and
eggs. Okay, we are good sports and can say we finally had the famous dish of Rancho Nueva Chapala… Originally founded by Arturo Grosso, brother of
Mama Espinoza, on the old Baja main road.
We had a reservation at Baja Cactus, and we arrived in El Rosario shortly after 10 pm. Fortunately, the water problem in town was repaired and we had
a super comfortable night’s sleep. We couldn’t even stay awake long enough to finish watching Ground Hog’s Day on the satellite TV!
Baja Cactus Motel
CONTINUED with the final part, here: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=40505
BAJA MISSION FACT PAGE: http://vivabaja.com/missions1
[Edited on 8-2-2009 by David K]
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Barry A.
Select Nomad
Posts: 10007
Registered: 11-30-2003
Location: Redding, Northern CA
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Mood: optimistic
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----great pics and narritives, David.
Many thanks for the report--------looks like you and angel had a GREAT trip.
Barry
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toneart
Ultra Nomad
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Registered: 7-23-2006
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Mood: Skeptical
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David,
You should build a miniature mission replica on your property and turn it into a theater. Show your travelogues and charge a worthy admission. They
are really good! Thank you again for posting these for free to your Bajanomad family. And what joy you get from the Baja travel. Ahhhhhhhhhhhh La
Vida!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64829
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thank you Barry and Tony (that is really a nice complement). However, I love sharing my Baja travels and would glady do it for free as long as I can!
By-the-way, there is ONE more day to report on (DAY 8) and it is a great one, too! Our private meeting with Doña Anita Grosso de Espinoza and finding
the 'lost' second mission location of Santo Tomas!!!
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jerryjust
Junior Nomad
Posts: 39
Registered: 6-17-2009
Location: Rosarito,Baja, Norte
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Mood: great
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Great Trip!!!!
Thank's for the great trip I really enjoyed the Pic's and the narraration. Thank's again. I am leaving Rosarito tonight and expect to be down Sunday
afternoon to Mulege.
Jerryjust
BE WHO YOU ARE:SAY WHAT YOU FEEL:THOSE THAT MIND DON\'T MATTER: AND THOSE THAT MATTER DON\'T MIND;;;;
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Von
Senior Nomad
Posts: 961
Registered: 10-1-2006
Location: Poway-Rosarito
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Mood: getting ready!
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AWESOME David!
Love all your details...Thanks 4 sharing..............
READY SET.....................
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cristobal
Nomad
Posts: 194
Registered: 12-16-2003
Location: california
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EXCELLENT report ... and the photographer you hired to go along and take all those PICS ... did a great job. 
I like ALL those numbers too ... thanks.
    
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64829
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thanks guys! Now, I got to make one more post with photos for Day #8... which was one week ago, today!
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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gracias David....i was happy to hear where Brisa is...cannot believe she has 3 kids!!! she and Sirena were good pals and we lost track of her. Good to
see Jose isn't undernourished either and is still making his metates...so cool...only thing missing is the hot springs and epic mango tree there.
Glad you had a great trip.
PS: nomads take note that the new gas station south of Vizcaino takes credit cards!!
[Edited on 8-2-2009 by shari]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64829
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Yah, I guess after marriage 'kids happen'! We passed Jose's son who was driving to Rosarito, on our way in. Jose says he speaks English now (all
learned from tourists) and gave me his email address (for when he can get online, in town).
Here is his son (Genaro) on a magazine cover in 2001.
[Edited on 8-4-2009 by David K]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64829
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Here is a photo I took and didn't post above... It is on the doorway of the mission... I was wondering if it was a welcome to the mission sign for
space aliens!?
Anyone else notice this before and wonder about it?
I neglected to take photos of the front of the mission, this trip... so many taken over the years before. Jack Swords has real nice photos, too. They
are on the missions web page.
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BAJACAT
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2902
Registered: 11-21-2005
Location: NATIONAL CITY, CA
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Yah, I guess after marriage 'kids happen'! We passed Jose's son who was driving to Rosarito, on our way in. Jose says he speaks English now (all
learned from tourists) and gave me his email address (for when he can get online, in town).
Here is his son on a magazine cover in 2001.
[Edited on 8-2-2009 by David K] |
tHAT WILL BE GENARO , jOSE'S SON, this kid appears in so many pictures
related to Baja, he was my guide to the mission and the hot springs,to the Tinajitas site. he speaks pretty good english that he learn from tourist,
cool kid a litle to pushy sometimes, thanks David for all the info.
[Edited on 8-4-2009 by BAJACAT]
BAJA IS WHAT YOU WANTED TO BE, FUN,DANGEROUS,INCREDIBLE, REMOTE, EXOTIC..JUST GO AND HAVE FUN.....
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64829
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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That's what I recall, but wasn't 100% sure... Anyway, Genaro has an email and I will send him a letter and attach the photos I have of him. He drove
past us as we were close to San Borja... a nice kid!
[Edited on 8-4-2009 by David K]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64829
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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BajaCat, in Dave Werschkul's book he mention's Gerardo's dad by name: 'Jose Gerardo'. Is 'Gerardo' their last name? So, is the son Genaro Gerardo?
[Edited on 8-4-2009 by David K]
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BAJACAT
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2902
Registered: 11-21-2005
Location: NATIONAL CITY, CA
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
BajaCat, in Dave Werschkul's book he mention's Gerardo's dad by name: 'Jose Gerardo'. Is 'Gerardo' their last name? So, is the son Gerardo Gerardo?
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David, Jose's full name is JOSE ANGEL GERARDO MONTEON, a fourth generation cochimi , Gerardo is HIS last
name , and also I made a mistake on his son's name. Is GENARO GAXIOLA GERARDO not gerardo, sorry about that, I already fix it
[Edited on 8-4-2009 by BAJACAT]
BAJA IS WHAT YOU WANTED TO BE, FUN,DANGEROUS,INCREDIBLE, REMOTE, EXOTIC..JUST GO AND HAVE FUN.....
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64829
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Great... thanks for the details Jose!
CONTINUED with the final part, here: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=40505
[Edited on 10-14-2009 by David K]
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