DD
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Bug Dope Future Thoughts
I'd like to respectfully submit since I am new here and since I have never been to this area or met these people, what I feel is a viable long term
option.
These homemade products have been shown to have merit/work in many parts of the world. By growing their own pyrethrum plants (Chrysanthemum
cinerariaefolium) the people would then be given a way to produce their own anti-mosquito products in the amount and type that is needed.
Perhaps this could even become a cottage industry for these people?
I haven't tried the repellent bar listed below, but it sure looks like the way to go with getting both clothes impregnated and as long lasting skin
repellent.
Now this is not a cure all, but I feel that it will be of help to the people to whom you are concerned about in Baja.
http://www.who.int/docstore/water_sanitation_health/vectcont...
"The pyrethrum plant (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium) contains several active substances (pyrethrins) that are toxic to insects. The active material
can be extracted with a solvent from the dried flowers (Fig. 1.45) and stems and has commonly been used in sprays for quick knockdown of flying
insects. Dried pyrethrum flowers, ground to a powder, or the extract obtained from them, are used to produce anti-mosquito sticks and coils. However,
because of the uncertainty of supplies and the introduction of more effective synthetic pyre-throids, the use of pyrethrum has declined."
"Repellent bar
This is a recently developed inexpensive personal repellent that provides relatively long-lasting protection. It is made of materials used in soap
production, such as coconut oil, and contains 20% deet and 0.5% permethrin.
A 40-gram bar, used daily and sparingly on arms, legs and other exposed areas, lasts approximately 20 days. Although the bar is patented, the patent
holder permits local production for noncommercial purposes. The procedure and ingredients are similar to those for the production of soap."
Ingredients % by weight
Crude raw coconut oil
49.86
Antioxidant, such as butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA)
0.14
Deet
20.00
Pharmaceutical-grade permethrin (25/75 cis/trans permethrin)
0.50
Perfume base (e.g., rose, oil of lavender)
1.00
Caustic soda solution
27.50
Natural clay
1.00
"How to make coils
Coils can be made cheaply from an insecticide and a flammable base material (67).
Ingredients % by weight
1.3% pyrethrum powder 20 - 40
Water-soluble glue (starch gel) 25 - 30
Filler (coconut shell flour, sawdust, jute) 30 - 40
Fungicide (benzoic acid, sodium dehydroacetate) 0.2 - 0.5"
"Repellent ropes
A cheaper alternative to mosquito coils has been developed in India (68): ropes soaked in a solution of a suitable insecticide, when burnt, produce a
smoke that kills and repels mosquitos and biting flies. The recommended material, widely available in India, consists of jute fibres, is about 0.9 cm
in diameter and weighs about 28 g/m. Esbiothrin was used in India, but other insecticides used in mosquito coils would also be suitable. A 1.2-m
impregnated rope will burn for 10 - 12 hours if hung indoors from a ceiling. The ropes are preferably burned inside cylinders of wire mesh to prevent
them from making contact with flammable materials."
http://www.geocities.com/harrisoncountyhealth/wnv_and_preven...
"The combination of permethrin-treated clothing and skin application of a DEET-based repellent creates a formidable barrier against mosquito bites. In
a field trial under intense biting conditions, persons wearing permethrin-treated clothing and a 35% DEET product had more than 99.9% protection over
8 hours. Protected persons received an average of 1 bite per hour, whereas unprotected persons suffered an average of 1,188 bites per hour."
http://www.annals.org/cgi/content/full/128/11/931
Mosquitoes and Mosquito Repellents
A Clinician's Guide
"Permethrin
Pyrethrum is a powerful, rapidly acting insecticide, originally derived from the crushed and dried flowers of the daisy Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium
[100]. Permethrin is a human-made synthetic pyrethroid. It does not repel insects but works as a contact insecticide, causing nervous system toxicity
that leads to the death or "knockdown" (out of the air) of the insect. The chemical is effective against mosquitoes, flies, ticks, and chiggers.
Permethrin has low toxicity in mammals, is poorly absorbed by the skin, and is rapidly inactivated by ester hydrolysis [101].
Permethrin should be applied directly to clothing or other fabrics (such as tent walls [102] or mosquito nets [103]), not to skin. The spray form is
nonstaining, nearly odorless, and resistant to degradation by heat or sun and maintains its potency for at least 2 weeks, even through several
launderings [104,105]. The combination of permethrin-treated clothing and skin application of a DEET-based repellent creates a formidable barrier
against mosquito bites [19,106,107]. In a field trial conducted in Alaska, persons wearing permethrin-treated uniforms and a polymer-based 35% DEET
product had more than 99.9% protection (1 bite/h) over 8 hours, even under conditions of intense biting pressures; unprotected persons received an
average of 1188 bites/h [108].
Permethrin-based insecticide sprays available in the United States are listed in Table 5. To apply to clothing, spray each side of the fabric
(outdoors) for 30 to 45 seconds, just enough to moisten it. Allow the garment to dry for 2 to 4 hours before wearing it. "
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rogerj1
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We simple folk
Please just talk about tequila and fishies.
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DD
Junior Nomad
Posts: 27
Registered: 9-16-2004
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Perhaps I over stated my case here.
I am just talking about giving these people some seeds for a plant that grows years round (perennial), and helping them establish a planting/garden of
these plants so they will have a natural way to deal with mosquitos.
The people can then take the flowers of this plant, dry them, mix them with water and use that mixture to soak their clothes or mosquito nettings in
to keep mosquitos away.
If these people make their own soap, then it can be incorporated into their homemade soap and used that way. While making your own soap may seem
exotic to many, it is a very common and daily routine in many parts of the world.
I have always believed that it is better to take the time to teach a person how to fish than provide him with fish.
Back to the "tequila and fishing".
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jrbaja
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Thanks DD
These guys make a lot of their own stuff so this wouldn't really be anything unique for them.
In fact, I will be looking for some of the items you have listed as well as the plants.
These are the kinds of solutions I am looking for as well as commercial repellants.
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Mike Humfreville
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Good thoughts.
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DD
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jrbaja wrote:
" These are the kinds of solutions I am looking for as well as commercial repellants."
If you need any help with this, post what you are looking for and I will see what I can find.
I've listed trade/common names for powders, which may be helpful in securing some powder for them to use immediately. These products vay widely in the
concentration of active ingredients (something to be aware of here).
If these people make their own lye soap or if someone in the area makes soap, then the "repellent bar" would be very easy for them to make. There are
numerous soap making forums and web sites that give instructions and automated calulators for adjusting recipes, when using different oil/fat sources.
The coconut oil in the listed "repellent bar" recipe will give good lathering in sea water, I've made lye soap for many years, so am familiar with the
process and history of it. Changes the recipe to suit/appeal to a specific population would be very easy to do.
The Canada article below on growing, cultivation, havesting, and processing is an excellent source.
As the powder is used in the agriculture and pet industry, these are ready and acceptable sources to obtain technical grade powder, check the
concentration of active ingredient(s) here as it varies widely, as does the price.
Source of pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium) seeds:
Nichols Garden Nursery
http://www.nicholsgardennursery.com/store/product.asp?dept%5...
-$6.95 per gram of seeds
AGRO-BIO - 360 - 02E HOME PRODUCTION OF PYRETHRUM
http://www.eap.mcgill.ca/AgroBio/ab360-02e.htm
Pyrethrum Powder Source:
http://www.seedstrust.com/cgi-bin/miva?Merchant2/merchant.mv...
-Pyrethrum Powder (2 oz.) Code: 95310 Price: $8.95
http://extoxnet.orst.edu/pips/pyrethri.htm
PYRETHRINS AND PYRETHROIDS
TRADE OR OTHER NAMES: Several trade names associated with these compounds are Buhach, Chrysanthemum Cinerariaefolium, Ofirmotox, Insect Powder,
Dalmation Insect Flowers, Firmotox, Parexan and NA 9184.
INTRODUCTION: Pyrethrins are natural insecticides produced by certain species of the chrysanthemum plant. The flowers of the plant are harvested
shortly after blooming and are either dried and powdered or the oils within the flowers are extracted with solvents. The resulting pyrethrin
containing dusts and extracts usually have an active ingredient content of about 30%. These active insecticidal components are collectively known as
pyrethrins. Two pyrethrins are most prominent, pyrethrin-I and pyrethrin-II. The pyrethrins have another four different active ingredients, Cinerin I
and II and Jasmolin I and II. Pyrethrin compounds have been used primarily to control human lice, mosquitoes, c-ckroaches, beetles and flies. Some
"pyrethrin dusts," used to control insects in horticultural crops, are only 0.3% to 0.5% pyrethrins, and are used at rates of up to 50 lb/A. Other
pyrethrin compounds may be used in grain storage and in poultry pens and on dogs and cats to control lice and fleas.
[Edited on 9-18-2004 by DD]
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A-OK
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Mood: faded
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DD..... Who do you refer as to "these people"?
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DD
Junior Nomad
Posts: 27
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A-Ok,
I was referring to the different groups of people referenced in this thread:
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=5455
Since there were apparently different groups/pueblos/barrios/etc., with the only unifying fact being needing bug repellent, I referred to them as a
group.
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pappy
Senior Nomad
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with the west nile beaing an issue in so cal, perhaps we should all start planting chrysanthemeums-getting kinda scarey.....
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jrbaja
Ultra Nomad
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DD,
yes indeedy ! Any information will be very useful. Thanks.
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DD
Junior Nomad
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Went and hit some forums and came up with the following info. on soap making.
I've found the easiest way to do recipes is to buy in quanities that mix easily together so little or no measuring or weighing. I use a 16 pound
buckets of Manteca (lard) and that mixes with 2 Red Devil Lye 18oz. container dissolved in 80 ounces of water ( a 1 1/2 liter and a 1 liter bottle
will give you 84.5 ozs, just pour out a little). This way there is no left over lye to mess with, the mixing of the lye water to the lard can be done
in the lard bucket and the buckets are handy after you pour the mix into molds for other things, works out nicely.
Mixing the lye into water will give off a good deal of heat, so this needs to be done in something that will not react with lye, ie No Aluminum, and
can handle the heat.I've used a 5 gallon plastic bucket, as long as you do your mixing slowly, so you don't melt the bucket.I"ve also used old plastic
lye containers to mix in, again the key is to mix slowly so you don't melt the container.
Now when you go to using different oils, other than just lard, you need to use a lye calculator because each oil needs a different amount of lye. I
put some links to calculator below.
** When you get to the point of setting up a formula for what ever it is you want to make let me know and I will help you with that or you can easily
use the forum I listed below.
Once you got your mixture, what do you pour it into, what type of mold. Well almost anything can be used for soap molds, even a bolsa lined cardboard
box (I've used this many times). Many people use old discarde plastic containers of various sorts. You just want something with a nice thickness (this
varies by preference, ie bath bar verses sink bar verses camping bar verses ??) and you want it to hold the batch you are mixing up.
Here are some plans for a simple wooden mold: http://www.chestnutfarms.com/Soap_and_supplies/images/4x15_m...
Forums to ask question on, get advice:
http://www.soapdishforum.com/phpBB2/
Informative site:
http://www.waltonfeed.com/old/soaphome.html
The biggest thing about making multi-oil soap is to understand and use a lye calculator:
Magestic Mountain Sage
http://www.soapmaking-soapsupplies.com/lye_calculator.htm
Software Lye Calculator program, zip file: http://www.gristle.to/markup/saponification/
Plug in your oils and fats you are using/wanting to use, then hit calculate.
Some basic but VERY IMPORTANT rules to follow are:
Wear goggles, mask, rubber apron, rubber gloves, and long sleeves. Lye burns. If you do get any on your skin, wash it off immediately!
Measure all ingredients before beginning.
ALWAYS add your lye to your water. Mix in a well-ventilated area. The fumes can burn your lungs. Use plastic containers. Glass can shatter from the
sudden heat. Set aside and allow to cool.
NEVER add water to lye, as it will erupt and there is a good chance of getting it in your eyes, which can cause serious burns, perhaps even blindness,
remember "Snow falls on water" (the snow being the sodium hydroxide pellets or granules). Keep clean water available to rinse with as well as vinegar
to neutralize the lye. Lye is a base and vinegar is an acid. I have vinegar on cotton balls handy when soaping.
Use wooden or STAINLESS STEEL utinsels.
Lye will eat aluminum!
Add your lye water to your oils. Stir until it's a pudding-like consistency (the stage where you can still pour into a mold) This stage is called
"trace" because as your stirrer is moved through the oils, it leaves trails for a second or two. Depending on your oils, this can take awhile. One way
to speed it up is to use a stick blender (those hand blenders you use to make daqueries right in the cup!)
Pour into your mold. If you get any on your skin, wash it off immediately. It's still caustic. Set up time will be from 24 to 48 hours. After that you
can remove the soap from the mold and cut into bars. Wear gloves when cutting as the soap may still be too caustic to handle. Full saponification
takes 4-5 days and full cure from 4 to 8 weeks.
Take some time and get comfortable with making and using your soap before considering it as a home business.
A soaper's favorite sites are:
www.soozcorner.com for a great recipe calculator.
www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com for lots of different supplies and oils
www.camdengrey.com for essential and fragrance oils
www.thescentshack.com for wonderful fragrance and essential oils
As mentioned before, Columbus Foods has great prices and Mike is great to work with. You can also go to www.brambleberry.com for great things too.
For a quick mold, I use very straight edged 'rubbermaid' type containers that come with lids. You can also use "Martha Molds" (yes they're nicknamed
after Martha Stewart ) these are the white, hard plastic silverware drawer boxes. You can find them at Kmart.
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DD
Junior Nomad
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One of the reasons that I started making my own soap is partially explained in the article below.
A benefit of homemade soap is that it contains glycerol, which the article below reports may be very helpful in avoiding some diseases, course you can
buy soaps with glycerol in them. However, with all research, it may be that with homemade soap there are other compounds in there that may prove to be
just as beneficial as glycerol, but are yet to be discovered, IMHO  .
But for anyone who spends a good deal of time in the sun, I would recommend using a soap with glycerol in it.
"Glycerin, a common ingredient in skin care products, may help treat some skin diseases.
So says a Medical College of Georgia study in the December issue of the Journal of Investigative Dermatology .
The researchers demonstrated that glycerin (or glycerol), which is a natural water and alcohol attractor, makes skin look and function better by
helping skin cells mature properly.
Glycerin works as a signal to help direct skin cells through their four normal stages of maturity. This finding indicates glycerin may augment wound
healing and help people with diseases such as psoriasis and non-melanoma skin cancers, which result from abnormal proliferation and maturation of skin
cells.
"For instance, in psoriasis, you have keratinocytes (skin cells) that grow too much and if we could somehow harness this (glycerin) signal, we might
somehow be able to tell those keratinocytes, 'No. It's time to mature. Stop growing. Mature and form good skin,'" study co-author and cell
physiologist Dr. Wendy Bollinger Bollag says in a prepared statement.
"Another instance in which you don't get normal maturation of the keratinocytes is in skin cancer, the non-melanoma skin cancers. So here is another
way that if we could potentially harness this signalling pathway, we could maybe bypass the signal that basically makes them cancer and tell them,
'No. Mature and form skin and that's it. Don't become a cancer,'" Bollag adds"
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synch
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Glycerin and Glyceryl (Stearate) are also widely found in hand lotions.
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