Marc
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Copper Canyon With Diego Rhodes
Several years ago we were in Choix north of El Fuerte in Sonora on our way to Creel and Copper Canyon from the south . We were told, in no uncertain
terms, the road to Cerocahui in Chihuahua was not safe so we drove back to El Fuerte and hopped on the train the next morning so it all worked out.
I heard about Doug (Diego) Rhodes on a post here on Nomads (Ken Cooke) and thought maybe he's the guy to get us through from Choix. I contacted him
and pitched the trip. He says no way he is going to be on that road. We decided to meet in Alamos instead and he would guide us to his hotel Cerocahui
and then down into the canyon and onto a new road between Euriqe and Batopilas. We had been to both towns, but we jumped at the chance to drive the
new route.
So we are scheduled to meet up with Doug in Alamos and I am sick with some kind of chest thing and not getting better. Pete and I meet up in Ajo, Az.
We cross over at Lukeville and drive to San Carlos. We've been here a couple of times before and I am not feeling well so we just chill at Los Jitos
and eat across the street at Panchito Villa's.
The next day we arrive in Alamos about mid-day. Alamos was a mining center in the 1600's and now is popular with Gringo ex-pats. We find Doug on the
plaza. We have lunch then check into the Hotel San Juan where he is staying. Pete explores and I go to bed. We have dinner at a stall on the plaza.
Alamos
in the morning it's goodbye paved roads for the next week. We follow Doug higher and higher into the Sierra San Ignacio and across the border from
Sonora into Chihuahua. We stopped for a while in Chinipas, another 1600's mining town. This steam engine was packed in small pieces on mule-back.
Chinipas
A huge gold mine near Chinipas
Cerocahui has a beautiful church and a mission school for girls staffed by Nuns who gave Doug big hugs when we walked through. (He is a major
benefactor) Wherever we went he knew EVERYONE. Doug is an American who married a Mexican gal from this area and built the Hotel Parisio Del Oso. He
speaks fluent Spanish and was well worth his guide fees during this expedition. We are now at an elevation of nearly 8,000 feet in an Alpine forest.
The weather is beautiful with warm days and cold nights. There is a wood stove in our room.
Cerocahui & Del Oso
On the way to Eurique we stop at the rim overlook. It has been expanded since I was last here. One gets a sense of height and distance from the very
edge. The feint of heart should turn back at this point because this is one scary road. A small plane is taking off from the runway far below.
overlook
Eurique is another 1600's town. Smaller than Batopilas and not as interesting. At the bottom of the canyon along the river it has a few restaurants
and one decent hotel. (I may stand corrected on this). The Parisio Escondito is very nice and has secure parking. The air temperature was warm but
not oppressive and AC not needed.
Erique
We cross the river and start the climb that goes up and over the ridge and down to Batopilas. This is the newly widened and graded road. It's very
steep and after a while the air gets thin at altitude. The Tundra's transmission is overheating in 4X4 mode so we go on in 2 wheel drive.
On the ridge
Batopilas is really neat , My third visit we check into Hotel Acanasaina. I feel well enough to walk the town. Again warm but and not very hot.
Batopilas
The white house on the hillside belonged to Mica True made famous as Caballo Blanco in the book "Born to Run".
The road out of town to Creel was closed so we took a "long cut". It's good to have a guide on board who knows his way around.
Creel has seen a major downturn in the tourist trade in the past years. Not much going on these days. I usually stay at Hotel Del Valle. We ended up
at a motel so awful I will not mention it here.
Creel
[Edited on 5-18-2013 by Marc]
[Edited on 5-27-2013 by Marc]
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DianaT
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Registered: 12-17-2004
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GREAT trip report --- really enjoyed it. What a great adventure. Sure hope you are completely well now. Copper Canyon is such a beautiful place.
Thanks
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BornFisher
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Location: K-38 Santa Martha/Encinitas
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Loved to report and pics, thanks for posting! Great trip!!
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AndyP
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Location: Eugene, OR
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Wow, fantastic! That area is a true frontier, unbelievable that it's so close to the US border.
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BajaBlanca
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I so enjoyed seeing pics of the exact same spots we walked around when we were in Batopilas 3 years ago.
Did you see the snakes the Indians make out of wood? They were for sale in one of the shops in Creel. I did not see them anywhere else. They are
exquisite. We gave some away as gifts but we still have one in the livingroom.
Your photos are just beautiful - what camera did you use?
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JohnMcfrog
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Location: San Diego, Punta Abreojos
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Thanks for sharing your great pictures and the adventure.
Juanito
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Ken Cooke
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Location: Riverside, CA
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Mood: Pole Line Road postponed due to injury
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Marc,
I'm glad that you were able to hire Doug Rhodes (El Oso, Chihuahua) as your Guide and to advise you of current conditions through the region. Had it
not been for him advising us on our routes, our trip might have been much more stressful as we left the highlands on our way to El Fuerte, Sinaloa and
later to Alamos, Sonora. You took some great photos as well.
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Neal Johns
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Great pics and story. A very interesting place everyone should see - someday. I no longer lead overland trip there because of drug activity. However,
with a guide like Doug Rhodes you should be OK.
Neal
My motto:
Never let a Dragon pass by without pulling its tail!
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Marc
Ultra Nomad
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Location: San Francisco & Palm Springs
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| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaBlanca
I so enjoyed seeing pics of the exact same spots we walked around when we were in Batopilas 3 years ago.
Did you see the snakes the Indians make out of wood? They were for sale in one of the shops in Creel. I did not see them anywhere else. They are
exquisite. We gave some away as gifts but we still have one in the livingroom.
Your photos are just beautiful - what camera did you use? |
Blanca,
I did not see the snakes in Creel.
I have somehow acquired four Nikon cameras. However the camera I used for my report is a small Cannon Digital Power Shot. In my opinion it shoots as
good in most instances as the more sophisticated cameras.
I've used it all over the world. I just need to remember it's in my pocket!
Shanghai
PS I may drop by your neck of the woods in September or October.
[Edited on 5-21-2013 by Marc]
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TMW
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Excellent, beautiful pixs, thanks for the report.
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Leo
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Registered: 9-23-2004
Location: Todos Santos
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Mood: could be better
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Great trip report. Did almost the same trip about 6 years ago. Fantastic phot-ops in the little towns down below. Would really recomend C.canyon to
anyone if they have a chance to see it. Minimum a week, preferably 2 or longer.
The grass is always greener....
and so, there is always a better spot in Baja
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DENNIS
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Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
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Great fotos. Made me feel like I was right there with you, and wish I was.
One thing that caught my eye with the in-town shots is the absence of trash in the streets. I see none. Either the wind blows to beat hell or the
towns have a good sanitary department and civic pride.
Thanks.
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