Cisco
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4196
Registered: 12-30-2010
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Surfing. (everywhere)
http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1992/08/24/playing-docs-ga...
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8knots
Junior Nomad
Posts: 85
Registered: 1-8-2016
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One of the best surf articles every written about a fascinating surfer. Fullers crew....yikes! True thugs that have kept a world class wave to
themselves.
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DanO
Super Nomad
Posts: 1923
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: Not far from the Pacific
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Wow, what a phenomenal piece of writing. Part 2 is linked at the bottom.
[Edited on 3-22-2016 by DanO]
\"Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.\" -- Frank Zappa
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Cisco
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4196
Registered: 12-30-2010
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Quote: Originally posted by DanO | Wow, what a phenomenal piece of writing. Part 2 is linked at the bottom.
[Edited on 3-22-2016 by DanO] |
Here is part two if you can't bring it up:
http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1992/08/31/playing-docs-ga...
and here is his younger Hawaiian episode.
http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/06/01/off-diamond-hea...
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vandenberg
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5118
Registered: 6-21-2005
Location: Nopolo
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Mood: mellow
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Went fishing many times out of Fishermen's wharf and the "Potato Patch", just outside the Gate, is scary, even seeing it from a 60 ft boat.
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pappy
Senior Nomad
Posts: 679
Registered: 12-10-2003
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This is from his book the author wrote his name is William finnegan. Really interesting actually. The title is something like a renegade life.
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pappy
Senior Nomad
Posts: 679
Registered: 12-10-2003
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This is from his book the author wrote his name is William finnegan. Really interesting actually. The title is something like a renegade life.
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Cisco
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4196
Registered: 12-30-2010
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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Book by William Finnegan
Originally published: July 21, 2015
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Sunman
Nomad
Posts: 400
Registered: 6-22-2007
Location: Oxnard
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Probably the most well written book on the subject of surfing ever.
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